Barry L. Foer
8/17/97
 
 

The First Leg
London, - 4/29/84
Landed at Gatwick this morning. The trip finally has begun. But after all the planning, all the parties, all the good-byes... everything (including the flight over) didn't seem real. After reclaiming my baggage & going through customs, I went blank. I just sat down in the airport and thought “oh shit, what do I do now”. It's going to be a long year. Finally, I decided to head for London and so took a coach to Victoria Station. I called Bob's sister & brother-in-law and caught them on their way out for the day. They invited me over for the evening and told me which bus to take. Then I just wandered around awhile and tried to figure out WHAT to do or see. I got somewhat depressed and again wondered why did I give up everything to do this? (my car, moped, furniture, job(s), apartment, girlfriend, cat, friends, etc. etc.) Then I decided to check the bible (Lets Go Europe). It suggests just wandering the many streets and alleys for awhile anyway, so I did. I was such an amateur. I forgot to check my bag and ended up carrying it (50-60lbs) the better part of the day. My boots were not yet broken in well though, and my feet hurt from wearing them all day, night, day. And so did my eyes. But, I found Hyde park and started enjoying it anyway went to Buckingham Palace and saw 3 guards change (& step on the ants) I found lots of things to do, but was very tired and head-achy. So I got my bag on my back again, and went back to Victoria Station to wait a few hours for the bus. After only a few minutes (and hours before the coach was to depart), Mike and Jean showed up. falling asleep....will finish this entry tomorrow. (scrawled in ink as I passed out)

Rochester - 4/29/84
First day entry continues the following morning; Okay, I'm back. It is about 13 hours later, and I am now feeling much better. Anyway, Mike and Jean showed up unexpectedly and recognized me sitting on the street by the bus stop. We drove around and saw the Cutty Sark & the Gypsy Moth. The House of Parliament, etc. Came back to their home for a light dinner. Good conversation, very nice people. Jean is making breakfast now, and then I am off to explore Rochester. PS- I have also decided that I must simplify & lighten my pack. BLF

Rochester - 4/30/84
Slept in today & felt MUCH more optimistic than yesterday. Rode a green double-decker to Chatham station and strolled about through Rochester. There was a college & I met a few students. There was a circus that seemed somewhat Americanized. I went through Rochester Castle, built in the 1100's by William the Conqueror to protect a bridge across the river Midway (built by the Romans). I imagined myself fighting sword up and down the tower stairs ( which were quite impressive) and just wandered around imagining the sights this castle had seen. There was a cathedral next to it that was also rather impressive. Charles Dickens was from this town and I saw his house and gardens, but I didn't take the tour as I didn't want to get “peeled” (i.e. it was expensive). Went to a pub in the afternoon & met a few people. Took the wrong bus back to Mike and Jeans and then had to walk about a mile, but I found their house straight-away. They have been most extraordinary hosts, and I almost accepted their invitation to stay a while longer, but I must learn to make this trip on my own and I think I am ready now. ( I HOPE). They took me to an exquisite pub tonight (for dinner) that was built in the 13'th century. The door was no more than 4 feet high, and there was a sign “Duck or Grouse” that we found amusing. They talked of Ocean City, Maryland and their trip to the United States. The barmaid gave me a brawl and some coasters. I am leaving in the morning for London to spend a day or two. and then hitchhiking on, so I will read the budget bible for a few minutes now and decide on a course for the next few days. Then grab some really necessary sleep. PS-posted cards 1-4 today from London (the cards were from yesterday) to Linda, Mom and Al Herman. Really do wonder still why I am doing this. I must be just a bit crazy to be here alone, but I think it will end up working out. at least I hope it will. till later. BLF

Rochester - 4/30/84
PS- I drank some "real ale" in the old pub called Owd Roger which was home brewed & very strong. Quite different from the states, and very good. Also found out the pub had been in business as a pub at the same location for over 600 years!!

Rochester - 4/30/84
Postcard Picture is The Royal Family - Dear Linda, I miss you very much already, and when I saw this Joan Rivers family portrait I just had to send it to you. Do well in school and say hello to everyone, Love, Barry

Rochester - 4/30/84
Postcard Picture is the hedge maze at Hampton Court Palace - Mom & Eddie, Cheerio from jolly old England, I am sitting in a rail station waiting for the rain to stop, so I thought I would drop a line. I went through this maze awhile ago, and saw the Hampton court palace, and the gardens as well. Also, I went to Windsor castle today, and Eaton. Great Britain is rather expensive and there is one thing after another to see. The first boat to Scandinavia (from Newcastle) leaves May 15 and I am booked for that. Two weeks left here. I am going to Wales and up the west coast as far as Edinburgh. I am fine and miss everyone. Barry.  PS- Forward any mail to Stockholm, I expect to arrive early in June, or mid June.

Rochester - 4/30/84
Postcard Picture is Piccadilly Circus - Hi Mom & dad, I'm here and surviving. A bit disoriented upon arrival, and just wandered around the streets of London. Hyde park, Buckingham palace, Victoria station, etc. Called Mike and Jean first morning and they met me in the afternoon. Showed me around and took me home with them to rest up. Getting settled down now and prepared to face the challenges ahead. Having a grand time so far, thanks to their generous hospitality, and I am ready to explore the rest of Great Britain a bit more before moving on to Scandinavia. Referring to the budget bible on an almost hourly basis. Very accurate so far. Anyway, I arrived safely yesterday and am now well fed and rested. I am staying one more night with Mike and Jean, and then I move on. Love, Your Son, Barry.

Rochester - 4/30/84
Postcard Picture is 16 views of London - Dear Linda, Here's some pictures of different places in London. Its a huge city (30 miles across) and you could spend a month here alone, but I am seeing other places as well. I am in Kent county now with relatives, and I am going to see Rochester today. Saw the Cutty Sark and Gypsy Moth, Buckingham palace, Houses of Parliament, Hyde park, Big Ben and much more in London. Seeing a ruined castle today. Will be in Richmond tomorrow. Am certainly missing you and wishing you were here too. Say hello to everyone, Love, Barry.

Richmond - 5/2/84
I finally made it to Richmond on the Thames. Nothing like the one on the James. Very beautiful, centered around the river. Spent most of the day in pubs and queues throughout London. No booking from Newcastle until the 17th of May (to Scandinavia). Took the tube to Richmond. Met Terry in pub. He lives with Vernon. (They are way gay), but quite hospitable. Showed me Richmond hill, parks, the bridge, etc. Bought me a very nice dinner - 1/2 a duck & several ales. Invited me to crash at their place. We listened to some Dylan, and Donovan. Enjoyed a very comfortable bed in the guest room. Tomorrow I'll be off for Windsor. Richmond impressive for a 1 day tour, but not much more. Maybe off to Wales and Isle of Wight, maybe not. I am more adjusted to my new “lifestyle” now. Miss Linda very much. Happy to be on the road, but wish she were with me all the same. Lots of friendly people here, none the less. I saved 8 pounds on board today! Hospitality, plus a free dinner. Until tomorrow. BLF

Post Script - Hope to be able to read what I've written here. a bit drunk off bitters, but safe and pure (from Vernon and Terry. To sleep now. later.

Richmond - 5/2/84
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Richmond - Pete & Mark, Cheerio! I have arrived in Richmond and thought I would drop you a card to let you know I am OK. Spent a couple days in London, and will be going back. Going to Windsor today. Weather is beautiful. Pubs are plentiful and Ales or Bitters are unbelievable. Beer is also about the only cheap staple around. I walked around a castle in Rochester that was built by William the Conqueror in the 1100's. Just magnificent. Say hello to the crew at the market, and don't forget Linda. Your Friend, Barry.

Rochester - 5/2/84
Postcard Picture is the round tower (at night) Windsor Castle - Hello Aunt Marta, how are you doing? Please share this card with grandmother and Grandpop. I am having a wonderful time traveling about, and am on a train at the Moment going towards Victoria station. Seeing and doing lot's of things. Wish you were here to drink an ale with me. Sailing to Sweden on May 17. Leaving for Wales tonight. I will write again soon. Love all of you, Barry.

Rochester - 5/2/84
Postcard Picture is Windsor Castle - Linda, Just left Hampton court gardens, near Windsor castle. I was in a maze made out of hedges and it started raining. I went to Hampton palace, but the rain continues so now I am waiting for a train back to London.I will pick up main baggage at Victoria Station and then leave London headed for Wales. 15 May I sail from Newcastle to Sweden, so I have two weeks still in England and Scotland. Too expensive to get to Ireland, and I doubt I will get to the Aisle of Wight. I stayed in Richmond last night and it was just beautiful. Sent Pete a card from there. Train is here now, so I am going. Glad I have your photo, as I miss you very much. Truly wish you were here to share this with me, Love, Barry.  PS- Send any mail to Stockholm. I expect to arrive in early to mid June. PPS - It is tomorrow now and I have been to see Stonehenge. WOW!

Amesbury - 5/3/84
Left London disgusted with prices. Saw Hampton court, & Windsor castle yesterday. Left for Stonehenge and arrived in Amesbury about 11:30 at night. Everything was closed. Except the volunteer fire department, which was just shuttering up for the night. I stopped to ask if I could stay there. The guys directed me to a place to pitch my tent & I got some sleep outdoors. Nice people in 16th century house next door invited me for coffee and breakfast in the morning. I left my pack in their back yard gardens and went walking to Stonehenge. I found a beautiful Norman church, circa 1100. Legend says King Arthur and Guinevere, after disgrace with sir Lancelot founded a monastery and built the church. Also saw the oldest British clockwork. I am off now to walk/hitchhike to Stonehenge with a Brazilian traveler I met here today. Barry.
Early evening now, I am sitting in the backyard of the old house, where I plan to camp again tonight. Beautiful weather and it feels so good to just sit, hear the birds sing and relax. But, there is always something to keep one occupied. Writing, eating, talking, organizing, packing, unpacking. I posted several cards today and when I finish this account, I have a few more to send. Eating Cheshire cheese on muffins from Marks and Spencer as I write this. Umm, dinner. Anyway, I walked to Stonehenge and was amazed. Tagged along (with and behind) a coach tour so I could listen to the guide explain engineering and religious significance of layout, color etc. Saw several burial mounds and just sort of hung around absorbing for a while. British army training grounds also happen to be on the Salisbury plain, and I saw tanks, troops and helicopters practicing. Interesting to watch through the lens of Stonehenge. How insignificant (and sometimes foolish) we really are. Hitched a ride to Salisbury rather easily and went to a pub. Played a game of pool and then on to the Salisbury cathedral. Met a bit of a madman who theorized that the cathedral was built of solidified thought at the very beginning of time. As he and I observed the craftsmanship and design of the building, it (his theory) almost seemed the more plausible theory (other than “man built it”). Booked passage through Thomas cook for Scandinavia today. Sail 15 may for Esjberg, Denmark. Cost just a hair under $70, much too expensive, but no youth discounts except across the channel. Hope to save money on the continent. Camping certainly helps a lot. Time to finish eating my cheese and muffins now, and write CJ, pitch the tent, clean up a bit and then perhaps cross the street and walk to the pub for a quick bitter. BLF.

Bristol - 5/4/84
7:55 PM- checked into a youth hostel today in Bristol for L3.90 Hitched form Amesbury to Bristol, to Bath. Spent the day in Bath and saw roman baths, several small but interesting museums, the Avon river, 3 cathedrals and a nice shopping center. I ate the rest of my cheese and muffins in a park today. There was a 30 or so foot high “replica” of the Washington monument. It was not really dedicated for that purpose, but it was still rather identical. While I was enjoying the park and my lunch, about 50 pidgins gathered around wanting their share. One of them even landed on my hand and tried to mug me for my sandwich. When I finished, I gave them bits of cheese and bread crumbs and watched. Great fun. Back to Bristol about 5 PM, and walked for 2 hours finding this place (the hostel). weather is VERY hot and clear. They say it is unusual for around here. I am gaining confidence in my ability to land standing in awkward situations, and am getting better at talking to strangers. It is lonely at times, and I have still not met any people my own age. Perhaps my 1st night at a youth hostel will help. In any case, I enjoyed a great luxury today, a second bath! as it is included in the price here AND I had one this morning in Amesbury. Really needed it after 2 night camping and I will probably camp again tomorrow anyway. I am now listening to Pink Floyd “Machine” blasting down the hall. Nice. Time to write a postcard and study Lets Go. Caught short of pounds as I forgot to change some money today, so I think I will write some postcards, watch some telly and maybe pop out to the nearest pub to see if anyone wants to buy me a bitter or 2. For now. BLF.

London - 5/4/84
Postcard Picture of the Round Tower, from the air, of the castle Windsor - Dear Boofer, this is just a small part of a large castle. It is really wild. London is a swinging town, with a pub about every 10 feet, although in the countryside they are often as far as 20 feet apart. Ales & Bitters are excellent and relatively cheap. Food is tolerable, some of it is actually quite good. Waiting for a bus to Salisbury Plains, to see Stonehenge. I have had enough of London for now. Just popped back from Shoo, and it is quite seedy. Love it! Out of room to write now, so take care my friend, J.B. (The Bomber) Barry.

Bristol - 5/5/84
Saturday 7;45 PM - Woke up a bit groggy today after 1 too many Ales, as well as finally running into Joe's cousin Hector last night. Roomed with a Scott named Paul, and we went to Byrums Pub, near the university of Bristol. Played many games of cosmic wimp out until 3 or 4 in the morning with another resident (who found Hector) named Chris. He enjoyed the game and intends on playing again, only using regular dice. Anyway, woke up about 10 this morning and walked through Bristol on the way to the M-32 to get to the M-5 and Birmingham. Terrible hitching during the weekends, particularly as this is a long holiday weekend here. Stood about an hour and a half for 1 short ride to M-5, and then found at least a dozen others all lined up with signs of where they were going. Finally got a ride with a motor racing enthusiast going all the way to Birmingham. Dale Peacock from Richmond would have liked this guy. He talked racing, motorcycles, sports, television, etc. They have been televising American football here for 2 years and everyone talks of it. They all ask why the redskins lost (the superbowl) as all here seem to be Washington fans. We passed the British Leylend factory where they make MG's. I arrived in Birmingham too late, and American express was close, so I could not get more cash. I bought groceries and got directions from a cabby to walk to the YMCA. I have a room all to myself, and I booked it for 3 whole nights (due to the long weekend) to get through the holiday weekend. I am ready to shower now in a real shower...NOT a bath, and then perhaps walk about a little. I have been moving so much it will be nice to stay put for a few days, although I will now have to rush Scotland a bit. The hitching is lousy for the next few days anyway, and I will make better time during the week and will be well rested for the next few trials anyway. Weather was absolutely gorgeous again today and going through hilly countryside was marvelous. VERY scenic. until tomorrow, BLF. PS- checked the herald international tribune for emergency contact, but no ads. GOOD.

Birmingham - 5/6/84
4:00 PM - went to the “Trees”, a pub around the corner last night. It took awhile, but eventually turned out to be a very friendly crowd. One bloke was a football fanatic, and wants to send me money to buy football souvenirs to send back to him (when I get back home). I told him I would. I just drank two Springfield bitters, and to save money - I came back and watched a western on the TV. The weather is very overcast, cool and  breezy now, so I was glad to be indoors. Walked about town a bit and almost got in a fight with a punk hooligan. Not much apparent history in this town. Reminds me considerably of the states, any big city urban area. Like this one large, round building with Coca-Cola advertisement and clock at the very top. Anyway, after walking for awhile, I came back and washed clothes in the sink. What my friends are doing at home today?? Feel a bit lonely. There is no one to share the experience with, no reflection of me in the mirror so to speak, to remind me who I am. Very lazy day today. Just stroll around, do the washing and look around for interesting nooks and crannies. I am going to shower now, maybe watch some TV or read a book for awhile. In any case, there seems to be a general feeling that woman are inferior at the least. Strange gambling laws, slot machines and casinos everywhere. strange race relations laws as well. Quite a bit more international than I expected here. French, German, Indian, African, Asian and more, all over the place. Also, the government (QUEEN) owns most all of the tourist sights and attractions. They can nickel and dime you to death admission fees. They allow you to view most things from a distance, or some small part of the exhibit... but to get in to the major portion of any building, park, zoo, ruin, castle or such, ALWAYS costs an admission. It is not terribly expensive, unless like me you are trying to see 3 or more things daily. Then, in sum you've spent a nights lodging. EXAMPLE: roman baths- view from pump room no charge. To go in, see museum and relics L1.40, to see Magna Cart L.50, Castle L.50. Cathedral, Cutty Sark and Stonehenge - L.80. Anyway, it pisses me off and often if I cant slip in unnoticed, or through the exit. I see what I can for free and call it a day. Money, in this case equals time. Every dollar I spend puts me closer to ending my voyage, which I am not anxious yet to do. Strange socialism, huh. They do have excellent transportation though, again if you can pay for it. Also, it wouldn't be England if I didn't mention the food at this point. It is bad. And the meals are different. Breakfast is big, and lunch is too. Dinner is not. The whole country seems to be up and about early. Then things close for the afternoon. Then they open again briefly for the afternoon. then they close again. And by 11 PM, the entire nation rolls up the sidewalks. God help you if you want a drink, food or much of anything after 11 in the UK. Anyway, enough of my silly observations for now. I am going to shower and eat a sandwich and then find something to do. Looking forward to Wales and Scotland and then quite eager to move on to the continent.

Birmingham - 5/7/84
Late entry - 1 AM - Just finished a massive game of CWO, Watched boring TV this afternoon (BOTH CHANNELS). went up to the lounge and found a book to read. Thought Malek CWO, soon several other people wanted to join in. Went to the pub at 930 to continue the game. I don't think I ever bought a drink, my money was no good there. Nice folks. Back by 11 30, and 8 or 9 of us continued the game, and the hours flew by. I gave Linda's address to several who wanted to buy CWO dice. Others photocopied the rules. Great fun. Feel a bit more at home now, really enjoyed. Played about 8 hours altogether, and won at least half the time. Who could ask for much more? Cheers for now. BLF.

Birmingham - 5/7/84
Monday 2PM - One of the more relaxing and pleasant days of the journey so far. This morning, Tony from down the hall woke me up and made a great breakfast. Malek joined us and we decided to shoot pool downstairs. I showed them how to stuff the pockets so we wouldn't lose the balls, and we played. Marie joined us and we played for 4-5 hours more. Then, up to Marrie’s room to play wimp out. Ward joined us (interesting fellow, a boxer from Ireland. Trained in the states last 2 years, and recently returned) After a couple more hours, me and Marie went to The Trees for a lager. She left around 8:15, and I ran into Gary, who I met there the first night I arrived in Birmingham (broke). He asked Albert, the barkeep to change some dollars for me, and at last I got some pounds. Even so, I had only 3 dollars cash to change, which netted L2.30, as the bloody AMEX office closed before I could cash a check. I still didn't get to spend my money though, as Gary bought me a lager, and then his friends & He & I went to a disco. Met lots of people there, and then at 11 PM closing time. They went next door to eat, and forced me to join them by buying me food. very nice of them. Met a group of 3 girls there, and we all rode the same bus. Very affectionate ladies! When I came back, Tony and Marie were looking everywhere for me. They wanted to play more wimp out, and we started yet another game, that is continuing even now as I write. I left the dice for the others to play with as I am tired. At one point earlier though, we had as many as 10 people playing. I feel really at home here, as EVERYONE has been so kind. They all wished me the best, and as I am the only yank here, I guess I have been rather unique, but I really believe they all like me. I sure like them, and enjoyed this stop. They have become friends in these last few days. Tony and Marie gave me a book for a gift to take with me on the road. I will miss this place. It is more of a dormitory than a hostel, as most of them are students. Wimp out is now the rage here, and everyone has heard of it now. This in turn helped make me a bit of a legend (especially since I win so consistently) and everyone is using the new slang they learned from the game. In fact, a lot of it is even catching on at the pub. I can hear them down the hall now, laughing. There must still be 7-8 of them playing. Anyway, the extended stopover was good, and as much as I hate to leave (these people - not this town) I must get up early tomorrow and go if I am to see any of Wales and Scotland. Hope to camp out tomorrow and hitch to Scotland after that. AMEX in the morning, and then the M-6, so I will go to sleep now. Let you know how it works out in tomorrow's entry. Cheers for now. BLF.

Somewhere in Wales, exact location unknown - 5/9/84
Wednesday - Evening - I have left Birmingham and many friends behind. As I left Tuesday morning, Kevin followed me and took me to the AMEX office. Then he rode the train with me to Spaghetti Junction, where I was to begin heading NW to Wales. He would have joined me, but he just bought a new house and is about to remarry as his wife and kids were tragically killed in a motor way accident. Anyway, I eventually got a ride in a filthy, tan Land Rover. The owner, a sheep and tree farmer named John, took me through Shrewsberry and eventually to his friend States farm. Steve's whole family took me in, fed me, and then all of us talked awhile. I rode their 3 wheel Honda all over the farm, and almost dumped it in the pond once. whew. About 8:30 PM, Steve, John and I went to a pub. They generously bought all the drinks ( a lot of them), and it was great fun. Steve's sister will be going to the states very soon, so I gave her our (my Moms) address in case she needs it. about midnight, we left for Wales, and when I could no longer read any signs, I knew we were there. It was a hell of a ride. We were both pretty pissed, and the roads were just country trails really. John had an interesting habit. It was very dark, and on approaching an intersection, he would cut of the head lights, pitching us into utter and total blackness. He figured this made it easier for him to know if cross traffic was approaching. I guess it is a good idea, IF no one else does the same thing. None the less, it worried me and I spent hours wondering if the blind leading the blind would really work, or if we were going to smash into someone before we reached the farm. Arrived at Johns farm around 3 am or so and slept there, on the couch in his house. They rent small cottages on the farm out to tourists, but as Steve and John had hitched through the states and Canada together, I was taken in again as part of the family. They fed me very well. I saw a sheep being born in the morning. It was going to be a beautiful day. Wales is an area of unequaled natural beauty, with mountains, lakes, castles, etc. etc. Left after lunch, and hitched to Caernarfon castle. Walked through it for over an hour and a half. Then hitched to Bangor to find a YHA. It was a shit hole, so I hitched again, and now as I write this, I am in some Irish folks front yard by my tent. Church on one side of the house, field of sheep on the other. Very kind people, they have offered me a shower, so I better run for now. Cheers. BLF.

Edinburgh - 5/10/84
Thursday, around 5 PM - Just checked in to the YHA hostel in Edinburgh, Scotland. There are 4 American backpackers here at present, and more checking in every few minutes. In any case, I got up early this morning and hitched north. It took about 4 rides to get to the M-6, but then I got a ride with a doctor about 200+ miles, right to the very door of the YHA. Beautiful weather here today. Not much going on as yet, so I think I'll wander off and buy a postcard or two, get a lager and see what's happening in this burg. Till later. BLF.
Edinburgh - 5/10/84
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Caernarfon Castle - Linda, This card is from N. Wales, although I am just now writing it in Scotland. I am sitting on a small peak of a mountain around 1,000 feet up and looking down one side I see the sea, on the rest of the vista there are two lochs & spread around the rest is the capital city of Edinburgh. There is a huge castle on a smaller hill, several old cathedrals & monuments, some industry and a fair size port. I wish you were here with me right now. I have taught several people to play CWO at different hostels, but mostly I have been camping or staying with farmers and have been very lucky hitching rides, and usually it is faster than the buses. Hope you are doing well at school and taking good care of Miss Ball. I can't wait to see you again. Say hello to everyone, love Barry.

Edinburgh - 5/10/84
Postcard Picture - The Menal Suspension Bridge in Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwlllantysiliogogogoch Wales - Mom & Eddie, Hello, how is everything there? I am fine and doing well. The tent is rapidly paying for itself, and I am glad I bought it. Some of the hostels are very nice as well. I am getting around quite a bit, and this card is from N. Wales. Very magnificent scenery there & lots of sheep. This is the town with the longest name in the world. Good luck pronouncing it. I knew I was in Wales when I could no longer read any of the signs. I am now in Edinburgh, Scotland and find it nice here too, but I will be on the continent very soon now. I will have to try and see more of this area when I return. I have met a lot of very nice people & have been eating & taking vitamins. Feeling great, but miss everyone there. I will write again soon. Bliff. PS- I bought this bridge really cheap & plan on opening a toll booth after my holiday.

Edinburgh - 5/10/84
Postcard Picture is Princess Street - Edinburgh- Dear Grandmother & Grandpop, Cheers & Hello from Scotland. The weather is superb & I am having a wonderful time. I have been keeping busy and traveling all the time & the sights are just unbelievable. Hope everything is going well there. Say hello to aunt Marta, Mom, Eddie, CJ, Jill etc. See You Soon, Love #1, Barry.

Edinburgh 5/10/84
Postcard 3 views of Bath - Somerset - Dale, Have traveled quite a bit since I bought this card and today I hitched from Bristol to Birmingham. All beautiful places. Got a ride today with a racing mechanic you would have enjoyed talking to. Passed the British Leyland factory. You should see all the motorbikes here. Some get over 250 to the gallon, and everyone rides them, from young girls and students to little old ladies. Have camped a bit and am at a YWCA tonight. Having a wonderful time, but miss everyone there at home. Playing CWO regularly. Love the pubs, real ale and bitters. Say hello to Linda, Tommy and Pete. Best to everyone, your friend, Barry.
PS- I am in Lothian West, Edinburgh Scotland now. PPS - Leaving for Denmark from Newcastle 15 April by sea. Can't wait to get to the continent, where they will at least drive on the correct side of the road.

Edinburgh - 5/11/84
Friday - about 4:30 PM - Up and out early this morning (by the rules - which by and large suck) I was still a bit groggy, but I managed. Walked all the way down Princess street, stopped by the post office for stamps, and would have called home, but it would have been about 3 in the morning there by then, so I decided to hike up the very large hill overlooking a couple of lochs, the sea, and the city. When I finally got to the top (of king Arthur's seat) after about an hour of steady hiking, I found a lovely place sheltered from the wind and wrote several postcards. Just as I finished, 2 sisters from New York arrived. We talked, and I got them to take my picture. Then an American from the hostel showed up and joined us. We all joked about how they should open a McDonalds or Wimpy's up there, as we were all pretty hungry. The sisters stayed, and me and the other bloke came back down the mountain and went to the Scottish museum. I also visited a brewery, but missed the last tour by a few minutes. I went next to the museum of documents and records. Walked about till just a little while ago. Americans, Canadians and Australians everywhere. Got back to the YHA a took a nice, long shower, very hot. Oh, joy... the simple pleasures for me! Weather is fine, and I am thinking about resting awhile, and then going downtown tonight. Listening to a guitar player from Canada now, who happens to be across the hall. He plays on the street to pick up extra quid most of the day. Nothing much else to report for today (so far). Later. BLF.

Edinburgh - 5/11/84
Postcard Picture is an illustration of Stonehenge - Hello Walter and Babette, I am alive and well and having a jolly good time in England. Miss being at home and with friends, but I have met a lot of nice people so far in my travels. Most all of them have been very nice it seems. Getting around quite well, and seeing a lot of things everyday. Spent several days in London, but it was too expensive to stay long enough to see all that I would have liked to. It's a huge city. Richmond on the Thames was very pretty as well. Lots of history everywhere. Please tell Linda you heard from me and my best to both of you. Also, please save this post card as it is part of the series I've sent out that cover my trip. Thanks, and see you again soon, Barry.

Exact location unknown - 5/12/84
Saturday - around 7 PM - Hitched from Edinburgh today, but basically no luck. Made about 40 miles to Kelso, and I must have walked half of that. But, I am in no hurry as I have still 3 days to get another 70 miles or so. Gorgeous and hot weather, not a cloud in the sky. Nice scenery, greenery, several castles today on the way. But over all, not an outstanding day. I like Scotland. Not much else to say today so I'll save the paper for later and eat some bread & cold spaghetti holes. Cheers. BLF.

Newcastle - 5/14/84
Monday - Morning sometime - Starting out yesterday looked like it would be one of THOSE days. From the campsite I walked about 9 miles in a good heat with the full pack again. Finally a bus picked me up and gave me a ride to a main road. I rode for free, which was OK as I was the only passenger at the time I guess. I bought a coke and from the main road it took only about an hour to hitch a lift for Newcastle. I arrived and found a youth hostel, but of course it was closed from 10-5, so I said the hell with it and started looking for a probable camp site. Instead, as I passed a pub, I decided I could use a drink anyway and try a plan B approach. It worked out well, and I am now with Graham and Sylvia, who are putting me up till I sail tomorrow. We went back to the pub last night and got drunk!! I called home yesterday afternoon, said hello, feeling well, generally well feed & happy. Then we went off to the pub to learn firsthand about Newcastle Brown. Later. BLF.

Aboard the Jupiter - 5/15/84
Tuesday - 2 PM - Sitting on the Jupiter now, waiting to sail. But first, let me catch up with yesterday. Saturday night, Sylvia & Graham took me to the Punch Bowl and we got sauced. When we came home, Sylvia rolled a doob and we listened to Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd, the Stones and had a great time. Slept in Sunday morning, around 11 we had breakfast, then Graham drove us to the Roman fort homesteads, built on Hadrians wall. (The original English - Scottish border). Then on to North Umbria Damn. Hunted pheasant, but when we found some, Sylvia didn't let Graham shoot them. They took me out to dinner at a country restaurant & I had a mixed grill. Lamb, pork, steak, sausages, veggies all piled high. What a pig .  Then, back home and back out to the pub till an hour or so past closing drinking Newcastle Brown. Drunk again! Up this morning early. Bath, breakfast & a game of CWO to 500. They drove me to the ship and here I am, sailing to Denmark. As it turns out, about 50 8 to 9 year old kids just arrived and boarded. It seems, they too may have “deck passage”. Shit, it will be a long crossing. Goodbye UK, Hello Continent. Hope the language barrier is not insurmountable, but after Wales & Scotland, just how insurmountable can it be? BLF.
 

And So We Begin

Scandinavia

Skanderburg, Denmark - 5/16/84
Wednesday - 8:30 ish PM - Well, I am here. Had a very smooth and pleasant crossing. Except for throwing the batteries overboard. (From a child's boom box, who was playing the same tape over and over and over) I told the purser it was better than throwing the child overboard, and he agreed. Otherwise very pleasant crossing. Played CWO with a New Zealander named Gillian most of the day. Bought 6 Tuborg beers on board in the duty free area and enjoyed.  Arrived in Esjberg about 9:30 AM, and disembarked by 10. Enjoyed a stroll down pedestrian street of shops and restaurants. Saw a museum and then decided to continue traveling with Gillian for a day or two. We bought train tickets to Arhus, but got off in Skanderborg to camp by the lake. I had to ask permission from 3 different people, but we finally got a yes. Language has not been a bad barrier, but there are plenty of people who speak little or no English. Food is excellent, but it is still possible to eat cheaply. The exchange rate is about 10 Kroner to the dollar, so I traded 30 for 300, & got a big kick out of that. Not much else today, so until later. Oh, 1 more thing, already noticing fabulous daylight hours. Dawn at about 5 AM, and not dark until 10 PM or after. Pretty nice. Cheers. BLF.

Arhus, Denmark - 5/18/84
Friday - About 10:30 AM -Denmark is quite a pleasant little country! Woke up yesterday morning and it was a very bad thunderstorm. Waited it out in the tent (very cramped), and afterwards  packed and came here. Gillian and I decided to split a hotel room for $22 American dollars including breakfast. $11 apiece is not too bad for such a nice treat. Especially with most everything still damp from the rain. The town carnival starts today and is supposed to be similar to the annual June Jubilee in Richmond Virginia. I will stick around a bit for that, and then head further north. I intend to sail for Norway tomorrow and hit Copenhagen on the way back from Sweden. Girls here are gorgeous, and so I cant wait to see Norway and Sweden. Went to a pub last night and got approached by a drunk queer. What a drag. Played CWO and listened to Rolling Stones. The conversation in Danish is quite musical and pleasant to listen to. But, when you are in a crowd, it sounds just like anywhere, with all the sounds mixed together. Interesting. Today is a bit overcast, and I hope we are not in for bad weather. The beer here is VERY good, but I think the Tuborg and Carlsberg are the best. Petrol is cheaper here than in the UK, but still about 60 cents a litre. Well fed this morning, but rather tired. Oh well, that's life, and at least I had a nice hot bath too. In any case, I will write tomorrow. BLF. PS - Just finished reading the gift book from Birmingham friends, "Wilt" by Tom Sharpe. It is the 1st of a trilogy. Excellent... similar to the Hitch Hikers Guide To The Galaxy series by Douglas Adams. Don Mclean was in concert here tonight, for about $10. I wanted to go, but missed the show by about half an hour.

Skagen, Denmark - 5/18/84
Supplemental - Evening - Arrived tonight in Skagen, almost a 4 hour trip by train. Went to the carnival today in Arhus. Rather commercial, but pleasant none the less. Very festive with lots of painted face kids and more, canned string, hair dye, whistles, hawkers and vendors, beer & crowds. Tried to find a campsite but it was very expensive. more expensive than the youth hostels. (almost $7 a night for a camping permit/tax). Ridiculous! Tried 5 houses for permission to camp in yard & finally got it, but apparently there are major laws against this. Oh well, if I get locked up for camping, I get a FREE bed & breakfast, and I am ready to flee to Norway if I must. Perhaps I can get them to deport me and thereby save me from purchasing the fare. Strange laws for a country with no minimum age for going into bars that are open till 5 in the morning, or sex legal at 14. Oh well, we all have priorities. Later. BLF.

Norway
Oslo - 5/21/84
Monday - About 11:00 AM - Let me catch up with the weekend first, and then bring you up to present as I haven't had an opportunity to write for a few days. The people who gave Gillian and I permission to camp invited us to go to the north tip just after my last entry. It was only 1 kilometer and is just SPECTACULAR. The two seas meet and splash into each other mixing their two distinct colors on a marvelous beach with lot's of dunes and wild grass. There are several lighthouses from 1858 back in time to who knows when. After watching dusk, as it doesn't seem to quite get dark, back to their house for coffee and conversation till after one in the morning. Invited us both in for breakfast a wash, and then dropped us off in the town center. Walked from one end of town to the other, bought a cooked chicken and had a feast for lunch.  Bought the couple (our hosts) a bottle of wine and headed back to get our gear. They invited us for dinner, and another nights stay. Afterwards, Gill and I walked to the beach again. Saw bunkers from WW II and more scenery. Back home for CWO which the whole family enjoyed. A little TV and coffee, then off to bed. In the morning - packing & Stowing, a wash and a big breakfast. They asked for a CWO game and want me to send them a set. Drove us to Frederikshavn Rd. to hitch back so Gill could take the train to Copenhagen and I could try my luck at hitching to Norway or Sweden. After awhile the wind picked up and irritated my eyes and I lost a contact lens. Tragedy. Crawled around for one and a half hours. Several people stopped to help look. After 2 hours I found it!!! But fate said "no way", for as I put it in the lens case, a semi truck tore past and the dry lens blew right out of the case and disappeared again. Anger. Frustration!! 10 total strangers, all volunteers in my quest stood stunned. They all left, and I wasted another two hours in a fruitless search. no luck, so on to Frederikshavn. Gillian booked her train, and then we asked some taxi drivers what my best bet might be. I went for Nordica lines and arrived as they were loading the last of the cars aboard the ferry. I got right on with a trucker and within 5 minutes was at sea,  on my way to Moss, Norway. Pleasant crossing, particularly for FREE. What a way to hitchhike. Drank some duty free Tuborg. Arrived in Moss about half past midnight, and rode with the truck to Oslo. It felt strange to be traveling alone again. The trucker dropped me in the center of the city after 2:00 AM. I had no idea what to do or where to go, and by now I was exhausted. Two girls passed by, and I asked them where I might find a hostel or a campground. They invited me to their flat, and provided coffee first, then a bed. They invited me back for tonight as well. I am one VERY lucky guy indeed. what are the odds I wonder. If only I could have found (and kept) lens. Oh well, I guess something's just have to go wrong, and in the end everything happens for a reason. In any case, I am now sitting in an opticians office in Oslo deciding whether or not to wait 4 days for a new lens from Sweden, or simply push on without it. I hate decisions, but I guess if they can get it, I will wait till Friday. Anyway, I must now find a bank as I still have no Norwegian currency of any kind, and I have not eaten in about 24 hours or so. Such is life. We will see how it goes. Later. BLF.

Oslo - 5/21/84
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Oslo - Dear Mom, Eddie & Jill, Greetings from Norway! How is everyone there? Good. Arrived on the largest of Denmark’s Islands last week and spent 5 days. Arhus was a great town & they were having a festival for 3 days. Then to Skagen. The north tip, where the North sea and the Baltic meet. Very beautiful but I lost a contact lens in the strong wind. I left Denmark next day and hitch hiked across the North sea from Frederikshavn to Moss, Norway, and then came to Oslo. A most pleasant crossing, particularly as it was free. I have ordered another lens here, and it should arrive by tomorrow. Charged it to AMEX, so if the travel insurance won't pay it I have more than enough to cover it in the cashflow account. It should be about $60 to $65. I searched the beach for two hours and found the lens, but as I put it in the case it blew out again and I couldn't find it that time. Anyway, everything is fine, playing a lot of CWO, camping a lot and having a ball. See ya soon, love Bliff. PS- Plan to see Copenhagen and more of Denmark as I leave South out of Sweden.

Oslo - 5/21/84
Postcard Picture is three views of Oslo - Hello CJ, having the time of my life, although there are some times when things are  a bit difficult. Adjusting to low responsibility living very well indeed. Camp out about 4 nights a week. Often meet people who invite me for a night or two of free bed and some food. Hitch hiked on to a truck that took me from Denmark to Norway, so I have crossed the sea for free. Lost a contact lens in Skagen (N. tip of Denmark) but am having it replaced here in Oslo, and it takes only one day extra so I guess that’s not too bad. The food, drink and people (WOMEN) are excellent. The open markets & pedestrian plazas are my favorite places. Singing & dancing in the streets, musicians playing for coins, bakeries with fresh bread, cheese, milk & lots of everything going on. I have been very lucky with weather so far & hope it continues to be as pleasant. Hope everything is going well for you & I will write again soon. Take care of yourself, see you soon. Barry.  PS- Even here it almost never gets dark. Dawn about 3:45 a.m., dusk about 11:30 p.m. I love it.

Oslo - 5/21/84
Postcard Picture is street view of Oslo - Hello Linda, hitchhiked across the north sea from Frederikshavn, Denmark to Moss, Norway by getting a ride with a truck on the Nordica Ferry. Lost a contact lens in Skagen, at the north tip of Denmark on a beautiful beach where the North sea meets the Baltic. Spent 2 days at a festival in the town of Arhus and plan to see Copenhagen, Fly and more of Denmark as I leave Sweden heading south. But for now I am enjoying Norway. It almost never gets dark. Dusk is about 11:30 and it is full daylight by 4 a.m. Beautiful country, pleasant people, but EXPENSIVE food and drink. Haven’t had to much trouble with language as most everyone speaks at least some English. Cigarettes are very dear now and I smoke less and less. Camping out about 4 nights a week and the tent is really paying for itself quickly. Almost used to carrying the pack everywhere, but it is still quite heavy. Miss you very much and wish you were here with me. Call Pete, say hello to Walter & Carooka. I'll write again soon. Love, Barry.
PS- Everyone I meet loves CWO!

Oslo - 5/22/84
Tuesday - About 10:00 AM - I ended up checking with some other opticians yesterday and finally ordered a lens from one who said he could get it by today or Wednesday at the latest. It cost 30 Kroner extra, but it would cost yet more than that to stay here an extra week. I walked about town yesterday and found the AMEX office and changed another money order. Life is very expensive here. A single beer costs about $2.50 American, so I of course can not afford it. I saw the castle, the palace and went in the town hall I met 2 Americans from Seattle, who were very nice. Plan on seeing the Viking museum and some parks today. Kristine and Birgitte took me to a couple of pubs last night and they each bought me a beer. I had already picked up some bread, cheese and salami's for dinner, and it turned out that they had also bought similar foods. We all shared and it was very good. I bought them a bottle of wine as well, but that is not much compared with 3 nights in a bed for free. I will stay just this last night tonight, and be leaving tomorrow. Anyway, Birgitte has a washing machine so we all came to her flat last night and now all my clothes are clean. Even my jeans! I showered, and shaved and feel really good. I managed to send off 5 postcards yesterday (Mom, Mom-Mom, CJ, Linda and Alan Herman). Boy, postage is really expensive here too. Finally, very late last night, Birgitte made a big pot of spaghetti (with Meat) and we ate all of that too. I have sure been lucky so far on this trip. People are good. One thing that strikes me as odd so far here; The Scandinavians are not really fond of America. They treat me (and apparently all Americans) just fine, but they hate Reagan, politics, US foreign policy, etc. And there is particularly strong opposition to nukes. I can't really blame them on that count anyway, but when I asked Kristine if she would rather that the Russians had power and the US none and she said, (flat out) she thought that would be just fine and dandy. Great. I asked if perhaps Norway, under Russian control ( as might many countries be under this scenario)would do better than Poland. Or East Germany. etc. But they sure do not see things that way, the way I do. I wonder? That's all for now. BLF.

Oslo - 5/22/84
Evening Supplement - Had a beautiful weather-day today, and got even more of a suntan. I walked a circle around the entire city. Now my feet are really tired, as usual these days. The Vigalandes Park was magnificent, statues, at least 100 of them, many fountains, a huge pool and water slide, large grass fields all filled with sunbathers (many topless) and endless foot and bike paths. From there to the old castle, WW II resistance museum, military museum, Palace, harbor, then back to the city center. Contact lens is not in yet, but it should be in the morning. Stuck to budget well today... under $5 and  EVERYTHING is expensive here. I'm am very proud of my resistance to temptation. Many people came by the apartment tonight. It reminded me of Richmond. We played some CWO. Nothing much else for this minute. so later. BLF.

Oslo - 5/22/84
Postcard Picture is a view of the harbor in Oslo - Dear Alan, Have been through much of England, Wales and Scotland. Passed from Newcastle across the north sea to Esjberg, Denmark, and up to the northern tip. Hitch hiked across the north sea, and here I am in Norway having a great time. Beer here puts Bud to pitiful shame! Staying out of trouble and almost on budget. Camping out about 4 nights a week. Good luck getting rides usually. Food is expensive, but fresh daily and very good. Miss home, but smiling and meeting many good people. Covering a lot of ground. It is light here about 20 hours a day, even this far south, I love that. Getting a tan, and avoiding the rain. Call Kerry for me, and perhaps Jill. Good luck in school and stay out of trouble. Your Pal, Barry.

Oslo - 5/23/84
Wednesday - I am now staying with Kristine's sister for my for real, last night in Oslo. In these few days, I have learned my way around the city very well. Today I saw the Munch museum. He willed all the artworks in his possession to Oslo and they have they have the Munch museum with over 11,000 of his works. My brother CJ would have loved it. Even I enjoyed it! Then, finally, lo & behold.... I got my new contact lens. YAY!!! After the optician, on to the ski jump overlooking the entire city. A wonderful panoramic view of the city. I have ridden on the streetcars and trams (subways) about 6 times now, and I have not paid once. They cost 9 Kr, which is about $1.30, so I have done well and not been caught. I would hate to be in big trouble with the law, but on my budget every $10 counts. I ran into Kirstine’s sisters jealous husband on the main street today and he was pissed. They have been divorced for 2 years, but it still made me uncomfortable meeting him. I am ready to head North West in the morning and put a few miles between Oslo and me, especially now that I actually have my new lens. Getting ready to eat now, and I am starved so tomorrow, wherever I am, you will hear from me. Until then, BLF.
 
 

Trondheim - 5/24/84
Thursday - about 10 PM - Just arrived in Trondheim and have found a somewhat secluded park on a wonderful hill. I plan to slip my tent up and sleep here if it will just get a little bit darker. I hitchhiked all day today and made fair progress. Lots and lots of short rides, and 2 good long ones.  I rode in a Mercedes with a telephone and a bar for about an hour. Rode in a Dodge van for maybe an hour and a half, and in a Volvo for 2 hours with an English teacher, good conversation on that ride. I spent half an hour with a chap who hitched through the states and spoke fair English. Also various assorted other rides and sights. Most of the trip was through magnificent mountains. Starting with very curvy, gentle slopes, then very sheer slopes with snow caps, then rugged, brutal, no shit MOUNTAINS. Magnificent. Perpetual waterfalls of melting snow creating rivers of white water with class 4 rapids, running endlessly along the valleys. One lake was along the side of the road for 30 - 35 miles. Unforgettable scenery. I used my full rain gear for the first time today, and hitched from under a bridge for awhile. Other than all of that, just a long and tiring day. I hope to make Bodo or Tromso tomorrow after seeing a bit more of Trondheim in the morning. I wish it would start to get darker soon. Later. BLF.

Mosjoen - 5/25/84
Friday - About 8:30 PM - Rough riding today. I got separated from the E-6 by about 50 kilometers and it took 2 hours or more to get back on the right track. Oh well, beautiful scenery and more beautiful scenery. Let me tell you about last night. I awoke to flashlights and Politi (Police), who insisted on moving me from the park. So About 1 in the morning, I finally found a house (with 2 elderly people who spoke NO English, I'm not sure they could even hear what language I spoke) and used sign language and pantomime to get permission to  camp in their yard. It worked out well despite the lack of communications. They invited me in for coffee and bread this morning. I saw a Puffin duck on a lake that was still mostly frozen over. There is still almost 2 feet of snow along the road in many places here as I approach the Arctic Circle. It is quite warm though, and as it melts it sure makes a lot of majestic streams and waterfalls. The house where I camp tonight, as I write this, is about 600 yards from the foot of some sheer mountains capped in snow. I think I will try to get a picture of the tent with the mountains in the background. I passed through Hell today, and the driver stopped  so I could get a picture of the train station in Hell. Now I have been there and back. Anyway, I am very tired and hungry, so for now. till wherever tomorrow finds us. BLF.

On A Fjord - 5/27/84
Sunday - 4:15 PM ish - Didn't have a chance to write yesterday. As I left Mosjoen, the hitching was terrible. Finally after 2 and a half hours I got a ride about 10 kilometers ( 1 Norwegian mile) out of town with a rock musician in a '65 Volvo. He invited me into the studio to listen and as I was getting nowhere fast anyway, I accepted the invite. It was a really good studio, and they are a really good, 5 man heavy mettle group. The one who picked me up had been on a beer run for the band, and they recorded and we all got good and drunk. It was better than a Saturday night in Richmond, or very nearly. After the session, they rented a small cabin in a camp ground, and invited me to stay the night. We all went to town, and they bought me a steak dinner in a restaurant overlooking a river and more snow capped mountains. Then back to the cabin to drink more before finally going to bed about 12:30. It was still bright light daytime outside. Woke up at 9 AM a little hung over, but a survivor. The hitching this morning appeared to be hopeless as only about one car every twenty minutes or so passed by, but after a couple of hours I got a ride for about 4 hours North and crossed the Arctic Circle. Got dropped off in Faustic and got another ride right away. As I write this, we have just boarded a ferry where the E-6 ends and you must ride across a big Fjord. I am almost to Narvik, and it never gets dark anymore. I think I will try and call Linda today. Miss her very much. Not much else new. BLF.

Narvik - 5/27/84
Evening - Supplemental - Nearly 10:30 PM - I have treated myself to a night in the Narvik youth Hostel (68Kr w/breakfast). My two person room has a desk where I sit now after a steaming shower, looking out the window at a spectacular Fjord with sailing ships, oil rigs, fishing boats, a glider swirling about on the drafts from the mountains and several very rugged snow capped mountains. I can't believe I did so well today once I finally got that 1st big ride. Everything fell into place and I did a solid 8 hours of traveling plus. Oh, these are the good old days. Caught both required ferry crossings just in time and walked onto the second and got a ride with a student going the last 100 Klicks to Narvik. He reminded me of Gordon. After I checked in here, I tried to call Linda 2 times, but no one was there. I wonder if they are on the Islands (camping on the James River)? Instead, I called Pete and it felt strange to dial my old home number from here. It was just like always though, Gordon was there too. It really put a smile on my face talking to Pete, Gordon and Mark. I miss home, but I am glad I am here. It was excellent hearing friendly voices, and really made me high. Well, I am going to enjoy the view, finally eat something and reflect on a pleasant phone call (though I do wish I had gotten through to Linda as well). Tomorrow, the north Cape I hope. Later. BLF

Narvik - 5/28/84
Monday - about 9 PM - Another Beautiful day today, it must have been 80 degrees F or better. Went to the Narvik War Museum and found it very interesting. Admission was 10 Kr, but I asked if they would look the other way, and they DID. Nice surprise. Then to the market, I bought 60 Kr worth of food and headed out of town on foot to find a nice place to camp. Got about 2 Klicks and found a beach on the Fjord. Lovely snow capped mountains surround this beach full of water skiers, children of all ages, swimmers, card players, Frisbee folk. Even badminton, a 3 level high diving platform, inner tubes, etc. etc. One thing, the water is very cold though. I found the only I could actually force myself in was to que up for the high ladder, so there were people in line behind me when I got to the top. Then I had to dive in, but I could also then get out almost as quickly. I tried to get out even faster every time, but it was so hot on the beach.  Most of the people are family oriented and clannish, but being alone does not affect me like it did at first, and I managed to meet a few really nice people. I found it rather interesting (to say the least) to find myself playing CWO on the beach with 4 topless students. Monday - about 9 PM - Another Beautiful day today, it must have been 80 degrees. F or better. Went to the Narvik War Museum and found it very interesting. Admission was 10 Kr, but I asked if they would look the other way, and they DID. Nice surprise. Then to the market, I bought 60 Kr worth of food and headed out of town on foot to find a nice place to camp. Got about 2 Klicks and found a beach on the Fjord. Lovely snow capped mountains surround this beach full of water skiers, children of all ages, swimmers, card players, Frisbee folk. Even badminton, a 3 level high diving platform, inner tubes, etc. etc. One thing, the water is very cold though. I found the only I could actually force myself in was to que up for the high ladder, so there were people in line behind me when I got to the top. Then I had to dive in, but I could also then get out almost as quickly. I tried to get out even faster every time, but it was so hot on the beach.  Most of the people are family oriented and clannish, but being alone does not affect me like it did at first, and I managed to meet a few really nice people. I found it rather interesting (to say the least) to find myself playing CWO on the beach with 4 topless students.

Narvik - 4/28/84
Postcard Picture is "Solen" (The Sun), by Edvard Munch - Dear CJ, I bought this card at the Munch museum in Oslo and had to send it to you because I thought you would appreciate it. This was my favorite painting, but it is hard to say, as there were at least 20,000 of his works there. He willed them to the city on his death, and it is a fascinating collection. I am now in Narvik, above the Arctic circle and it doesn't seem to get dark ever. If it does, it can't be for more than an hour or two while I am asleep. It's great because you don't get tired early, and its hard to sleep late. If it never gets dark, its always the same day & I will never get old. But seriously, I am having a great time and should be in Stockholm, Sweden towards the middle of June if you care to write. Tell Jill, Mom & Eddie, Mom-Mom, etc. "Hello". Hope everything is fine with you & I will write again from somewhere. Your Brother, Barry.

Narvik - 5/29/84
Tuesday - maybe 7:30 PM - I am very dark and in spite of oil and lotion (which I never need to use) I am nearly burnt to a crisp. Hope I can survive here until Friday (when Gill is supposed to meet me here in Narvik) I found water today, and in fact, the people who gave me the water invited me in for orange juice  as well. Food running a bit low, so I might have to diet Thursday. I have met a few people here now. They are all really nice. Each brings a little snack when they come to the beach, and then decide they are not hungry so I get to share. What classy folks. I even borrowed some clear nail polish form one of the girls and I gave the CWO dice a badly needed coat. I watched the sun dip behind the mountains for about an hour last night. Very hard to sleep when it is noon almost all the time, and very light all the time. Once again, good weather follows me, as the people on the beach tell me this is the first good weather since1980. I think it will hold through the week. Not much else new, so I must go & relax even more now. Later. BLF.

Narvik - 5/31/84
Wednesday night /Thursday morning 3 AM - I am very tired, but the sun is as high in the sky as it was at noon. And I feel guilty because I didn't write earlier today and there is so much I don't want to forget that I simply can't sleep. Last night about 9:30 some 25-30 people showed up and were having a cook out party at my end of the beach. They started talking with me and invited me to join in. They played guitar and sang American songs with Norwegian accents and it was fun. I ate Polse, Reindeer & moose, and drank lots of beer. It was great fun and today I collected all the bottles they left on the beach and took them back for the deposit. I got 52.80 Kr, about $6. Anyway, I pitched my tent sometime around 2 and they all went home. About 3 something in the morning some other partyers came along and pulled up the stakes to my tent. I got very angry, and chased them off the beach, but I couldn't sleep after that. It was a long morning, but in the afternoon my friends came back and while they watched my food and gear, I went to town to take the bottles back and buy extra supplies as tomorrow is a holiday of some kind and the shops will all be closed. I also walked to the hostel to leave a note for Gillian in case she arrives before Friday. I met an American girl from Chicago, and a New Zealand boy who was traveling with her. Hmmm. Then, back to my beach where more of my friends had appeared. One of them had a motor boat today, and we cruised the Fjord for awhile. I saw German bunkers everywhere, plus lots of rocks, caves and nice houses. Back to the beach, and afternoon turned into evening once again, and most of my friends left for home too. I decided to find the house of a teacher who I met on the beach and see if I might find somewhere else to stay tonight. We had tea and then went to his neighbors for sandwiches, coffee, wine, musk and discussion. Very much fun. Then they invited me to stay at their house for the night and here I am. This has been a very good week for my budget, about 10 Kr a day if you include the money for the bottles against the money I have spent. $1.20 a day  is not bad ( I do not think it can be beat) for a most expensive country, but I am still doing OK. Guess I am learning the ropes of living on the road (cheap). I have a WONDERFUL tan and a million mosquito bites. I need a shave and a shower. But all in all, very content. Perhaps tomorrow I will walk to the hostel  and see if I can shower and clean myself up while the reception desk is closed all day. Until later. BLF.

Narvik - 5/1/84
Postcard Picture is 4 Evening Views of Narvik - Friday- Hi Mom & Eddie, how is everything there? Fine I hope. I called Pete Sunday 28 April to celebrate my one month anniversary. Everything here is lovely. I spent the last five days living on a beach about 1 kilometer from town. There are mountains capped in snow overlooking the beautiful Fjord. Filled with water skiers, inner tubes, rafts and swimmers. A great diving platform and a pier to fish from.  I have eaten barbecued Reindeer, Moose, fresh Cod - all for FREE! One morning I collected bottles on the beach & took them to town for the deposit and they have paid for almost my entire week in expensive Norway. The people here are very generous and everyday my friends bring fresh fruit, beer, food and fruit juice for me. The weather is in the nineties and the sun just goes in a big circle around the sky - it never goes down. I can't remember what nighttime is like. I will be heading North East for Finland and Sweden tomorrow, but I will certainly miss the beach at Narvik. It has been a splendid week. See you soon, Love, Bliff.
PS - you should see my Scandinavian sun tan!!!

Narvik - 5/1/84
Postcard Picture is signpost with distances from Narvik to everywhere else. - Hello Dale, from the Arctic circle. The weather here is fabulous and I am living on a beach where the sun never goes down for the entire endless summer. This is the good life. I have become a fairly proficient camper and I even ate Polse (big hot-dogs) that were cooked here on the beach. I also ate Reindeer, Moose and one day I caught a Cod that was good. Went water skiing also with some students I met on the beach. There are not any beers I can find in cans for you, they all seem to be in returnable bottles. But when I find some, I will send them to you. Scandinavia is everything you ever imagined it could be, and more. I could live here if it weren't for the terrible winter months. Guess I am not a real Viking. Say hello to Tommy, Pete and Linda. Take care of yourself and stay well. Your friend, Barry.

Narvik - 5/1/84
Postcard Picture is the Fjord, with mountains and a boat sailing - Hello Linda, How are you? I am fine but I miss you very much. I tried to call you Sunday 28 April for my one month anniversary but no one was home. I called Pete and talked to Gordon & Mark, but I will call you in a week or so, say mid May. Anyway, I have been living on a beach above the Arctic circle. The sun never goes down, just around the sky in a big circle. I have a very, very dark tan. I have met many of the local students, and everyday someone brings me some food, and fruit juice. At "night" there is beach parties till 4 or 5 in the morning and beer and barbecues. (I ate Reindeer & Moose. One day I caught a Cod fish in the Fjord and ate that for dinner.) & people with guitars and tapes. It is funny when they play Pink Floyd “Wish You Were Here” and sing along with Norwegian accents. It is strange also to be swimming in 90 degree heat and see snow covered mountains surrounding you on every side. One morning I collected beer bottles from a party & took them to town for the deposit, and that has all but paid for my entire low budget week here. Tonight though, I splurge and check in to the youth hostel for a hot shower and good nights sleep.  I miss you and will write again soon & also I will try and call again. Take care of yourself and Miss Ball. Barry.

Narvik - 6/1/84
Thursday - woke up about 9:00 this morning, I am still rather tired. Cleaned up a bit and had some breakfast with Jan and his girlfriend. Boy is he hen pecked for a man twice divorced.  We went and hiked up a curvy-sheer mountain to his cabin, which was splendid. A polar bear, cool well water and a deck with a view of tranquillity. After a couple of hours, we hiked down and explored a couple of caves about 1/2 way down. Then to the youth hostel to see if Gillian had arrived. She had not, but had phoned and said scheduled to arrive 3:00 Friday. Then hiked around a Fjord inlet to see Jan's boats. They will all be great one day, if he can ever get them in repair and afloat. Jan reminds me of an old(er) Alan Herman in many ways. Then back to his house where his girlfriend was angry that he had been out all day. When we arrived, my gear was out on the front porch, so I took this graceful hint well, and after a quick tea with bread and cheese, we exchanged a few paperbacks and I left. Tried to camp on a mountain and thought I had cleared the ground well enough, but after getting in the tent there were obviously lots of sticks and twigs still under me.  I was afraid the needles and twigs would poke through the (up to now) water tight tent, so I repacked and cursed that shortcuts just don't pay. As I walked toward an area I knew better, I ran into Lily and we talked a bit. Then hiked to place I had first discovered overlooking the beach. A Swedish couple was camped there so I pitched a few feet away. But the ground had only an inch or two of soil. It was a neat trick, sinking the stakes at sharp angles. I had coffee with the Swedes and then decided, enough for today. Time for bed, well, sleep anyway. BLF.

Narvik - 6/1/84
Date Correction to log book, Friday June 1, 1984, 11:30 PM give or take. - Woke up early, packed and hiked 2 k or so to the hostel. Checked my bag, took a shower, washed my dirty clothes, wrote post cards to Dale Peacock, Linda and Mom. Went to market and bought food for a picnic on the beach, but my friends were not there. Then waited at a bus stop (where I guessed Gillian would arrive) and at 2:45 she pulled in. We sat on the beach for awhile, met people and played CWO & I drank a free beer. Went for a good swim about 10 and dove off all 3 levels of the platform. Very nice dives too! Then hitched back to hostel for final night before continuing to the way far north.

Tromso - 6/2/84
Saturday - time is meaningless in perpetual daylight - Hitched to Tromso. Made good time. Town carnival in progress right now. Is very colorful, but basically a big disappointment for me. (NOTE: high expectations from reading James Michener’s “The Drifters” which referenced the Tromso Carnival). Split a pepper steak pizza with Gillian for dinner. Very good. nothing else for now. BLF.

Gallivare - 6/3/84
Sunday - 11:45 PM - Interesting day today. Got a lucky start this morning catching an early ride on a deserted road, trying to get to the E-78 (about 10 Klicks walking in stifling heat, swarms of killer mosquitoes, and full gear). Then, got another ride quickly for about 80 Ks. Then waited  one and a half hours for ride another 150 Ks or so, then a two and a half hour wait, but this was the Big One. All the way to Sweden, via Finish Lapland. We saw wild reindeer by the road, and about 7 we stopped for the night. Our ride was going to take us further tomorrow, but the place he left us was full of mosquitoes and reindeer and moose, the ground was a moonscape - all solid rock. We couldn't get the stakes in the ground. We ate sandwiches by the road and hitched further south to Gallivare. Found a camp site that has not been opened for the season yet and are here, now, again for free. Played on the swings and slides and borrowed a canoe for a ride. But, the showers and toilettes are locked up. Swam in the river instead. Met a guy fishing who drove me around and showed me a bath house that will be open in the morning. Yay. Not much else for now. BLF.

Gallivare - 6/4/84
Monday - 9:45 P.M. - Slept in this morning till almost 11:00! Then walked to town & changed currency to Swedish. Then bought fruit juice and went to a sporting goods shop to look around. They sold Puch mopeds and had one just like my old one. They let me leave my gear in the store. On the way to the bath house I passed a high school and went into the gym. Showered, shaved & cleaned up, put in my contacts and generally came out a new man.  Then to the Putt Putt golf course. Easily the most difficult I ever played. Waited in the telegraph office while Gillian made two long distance calls. Then to Tourist Information. They have a free tour at 10 tomorrow morning by bus through town & the steel mines. Bought groceries and back to camp. Played CWO with Swede from Gotborg who bought us some really (pitiful) weak beer. He invited us to stay a couple of nights when/if we came through Gotborg. It is very cold right now and threatening to rain. Mosquitoes are terrible. Later. BLF.
PS- Also bought a compass today. should have invested earlier, it is quite necessary.

Pitea Beach - 6/5/84
Tuesday - 11:30 P.M. - I am in Pitea Beach sitting in a men's room of a closed campground. The window was open and the mosquitoes are TERRIBLE outside, so here I play CWO with Gillian. Had a very good day today. Went to the shell station early this morning in Gallivare and used the toilette and sink to clean up a bit. Then, back to the sporting goods store to stow the pack for the day. Then to the bus station, and free tour of the city and Mammerberget, where we toured the heavy metal mines. They gave us boots, smocks, helmets and earplugs and flashlights and put us on a different bus that drove into the mine. It was HUGE!!! There are 200 kilometers of drive-able roads, 400 vehicles at any given time, 850 meters deep, 7 million tons of finished product a year. We saw them drill and blast part of a new tunnel. Saw trucks load and dump. Rode a lift that goes 20 meters a second. Our friend Gundar from Gotborg translated for us. Then back to Gallivare. Picked up bags and went to school for showers and a shave. Then hitched here, made excellent time, saw lots of reindeer, wrote postcard to Linda. Arrived here about 7 PM, and all the markets were closed. Went to a Chinese restaurant & Pizza Parlor and made friends with the owner. Told him what we could spend, and how hungry we were, and let him order for us. He kept bringing more and more food. Very nice, ate till I was stuffed!. Left our bags there and walked around the pedestrian mall for about an hour. Then, he gave us directions to this campsite when we went back to get our bags. Not much else for now. Later. BLF.

Gallivare - 6/5/84
Postcard Picture is four views of Gallivare (c/o/ E.J.S.) - Dear Grandma Simmie, Hello from Sweden. I hope you are doing well, and I think of you often. I am having a GREAT time and have been seeing so many sights. Norway is very Beautiful, and even here the sun shines bright nearly 24 hours a day. My budget is working out very well and I am doing just fine. I will tell you all about everything when I get back, but for now, take care of yourself and say hello to everyone for me. Love, Barry

Umea - 6/6/84
Wednesday - 11 P.M. - Today has been a 4 star day. Slept till 8, then forced to take the fly sheet off the tent due to extreme heat. Then back to sleep for another half hour. Packed and relaxed in the sun till almost 11:30, then to the hotel rest rooms down the street to clean up. Walked a couple blocks, and got a ride past the turn off, to get a better chance at the Good Ride. waited a half hour, and then a good ride about 100 Klicks with 2 girls who just finished their school semester today. They took us to their home, let us shower and fed us. Then took us back to the road to hitch further south. another half hour, another ride with a lady gynecologist to Umea. She introduced us to a doctor friend of hers and he took us to his house and left us with his wife. She gave us tea and a light meal. Then we walked to town for a look about. Back about 10 and taught her CWO. Now ready to go to sleep and pat self on back. All I spent today was about 50 cents. Really a good day for the budget. Well fed, clean, good bed, & NO COST. Great!! Later. BLF.

Pitea Beach - 6/6/84
Postcard Picture is of Moose in Lapland - Dear Linda, I have just come south of the Arctic circle. I am in a car with a man who speaks absolutely NO English & besides the beautiful scenery & wild reindeer, it is boring with no conversation. I am heading south to Pitea Beach and hoping it gets dark there at least a few hours a night, as it has been light for the last two and a half weeks, and it stays very warm. Hard to sleep. Sweden is quite nice & wild reindeer are everywhere. So are huge mosquitoes! I played the hardest Putt Putt golf course I have ever seen in Gallivare yesterday and also toured a very large heavy metal mine. They dress you in boots, smock and helmet and drive a bus in to the 200 and some kilometers of the mine, down 850 meters below sea level. I miss you very much, take care, Love, Barry.
PS- Say hello to Miss Ball & give her some Bonkers for me.

Umea - 6/7/84
Thursday - 8 P.M. - Fun day today, and another good day for the budget. Woke up about 10 after a decent nights sleep and had corn flakes, tea, a banana and filmelke ( a Swedish sour milk - like sour cream only thinner). There is also thin bread in the north of Sweden very similar to Matzo. Then off to explore Umea. Walked through the city Centrum and visited a large department store, several toy shops and a sporting good store. Went to the Tourist Information and got a map with all the points of interest and went to Gamla Stan, a small historic section of town with a large museum, old buildings, etc. Then went to the sports center and lifted weights, jumped, threw the discuss - shot and javelin. We tried to use the bowling alley but it was closed. Then walked along the river and watched some boys fishing.  Then, back to Nisse Bengtsson & Ing-Marie Herman's house at 12 B Storgatan. They fed us a light meal and we all played a little CWO. Now they are putting little Nicholas to bed. (Thank goodness for that, he is a regular Dennis The Menace). But... free food and lodging usually has some sort of string attached, and that is not such a high price to pay. Anyway, in the morning I head south, southwest I think. Not much else for now I guess, so until later. BLF.

Stockholm - 6/9/84
Saturday - 5 P.M. - Writing from a subway station on the outskirts of Stockholm. Left Umea yesterday after good hot showers and a cold breakfast. Weather was cold, windy & drizzly and still is today. Went to a highway service area and asked motorists for rides. In 15 minutes we found a Good Ride for about 270 Klicks. Stopped for coffee and cake once on a lake. Played 20 questions, hangman and trivia. Then got dropped off at the train station at Sundsball, made sandwiches and used the toilettes. Then caught a ride about 50 Klicks. Bought some groceries in a little store, then got a ride in a 1946 Luxury Ford Sedan that was on its first run after a 10 year (do it yourself) restoration. It was a nice elderly couple who belong to a car club and were on their way to a road rally. We stopped for roadside cake and coffee picnic and took their picture with their car. Then  they took mine and promised to mail a copy. I gave them Dale Peacocks address and said he might be able to help them find a few parts they still needed. Decided to go inland with them, and spent the night in Borlange. Saw a big wild Moose along the road as well. The area is called Dalanejs, and is famous for it's tradition and many handicrafts. Ate caviar, cheese, bread, fruit etc. It rained most of the night, but the tent stayed cozy. This morning they took us to a good junction and we made Stockholm in 2 lifts. Bought a 24 hour transportation pass and have used it about 4 times already, so it has paid for itself, but I avoided getting the pass stamped - so I still have 24 hours from the 1st time it does get stamped. Wanted to check for mail, but AMEX is closed until Tuesday. It seems wherever I am, there is a g** Dam*ed holiday weekend. It is raining and I am cold. Just want to pitch the tent and sleep for awhile. Perhaps the city will look friendlier when I am well rested. I just cant seem to get the hang of getting into big cities. Also checked prices for boat to Helsinki, and round trip it will come to over $50 American. I want to go, but refuse to pay... so I might hitch back North and around, or get a shorter crossing. Guess that's all for now. BLF.

Stockholm - 6/9/84
Supplemental - 11:00 P.M. - I am now camped in back of (prosperous section of town) a house about 50 yards from Morby Centrum, the last stop of the subway system to the North of the City. I asked permission and pitched the tent. Then, they invited us in for coffee and a light meal. We played CWO, learned to speak a little Swedish, got driven around town and saw one of Gretta Garbo's homes, the kings summer Palace, etc. I call this the "rock soup" theory of backyard camping and I think I have become quite skillful at mastering this technique. (Lucky as well). The folks back home should be proud. I am certain Cal (Linda's dad) will get a kick out of my "theory". To bed now, happy & content. BLF.
PS- We have been invited to camp here as long as we like, with full bathroom privileges anytime. The door is unlocked for our benefit. This beats paying for a campground, which I have successfully avoided the entire trip so far. BLF.

Stockholm - 6/10/84
Sundag - 8:00 P.M. - LOUSY weather. Cold, cloudy & rainy. Went to the castle museum, modern art museum, National museum, toy museum and avoided admission charge every time. Also, haven't had the subway ticket punched yet. Saw a Tivoli amusement park, ate yet more bread and cheese. Called Linda and she sounded very depressed. Miss Ball (her cat) is dead. I am very sad about that. The cat and I were close. Pete lost the apartment, got fired from his job at Sam Millers and is behind on Bills. Linda has been laid off for a month. Things sound terrible, but at least they can still go tubing down the James river, as that's where they were heading when I called. Boy, I miss home particularly on days like this. Not much else today, hope the damn weather improves tomorrow. BLF.

Stockholm - 6/11/84
Monday 12:00 - Hello again from Stockholm. Last night, Carl Svennson, whose yard we camped in, invited us to just sleep inside. Got a nice hot shower and a good nights sleep. Woke up about 9:30 this morning for coffee and breakfast. Out about 11 headed for Kulturst Husset, but it was closed. Many of the museums are closed weekends and holidays. This makes no sense to me! Then to city hall, and walked up the tower for an excellent view of the city. Used my compass and didn't get lost again all day. I am well oriented here now. At suggestion of Lets Go, went to the Grand Royal Hotel to splurge on Smorgasbord, but it was entirely too expensive. Went to the market and bought a cooked chicken, bread and crab spread in a tube. Ate till I was full at least. Then, subway back to Gamla Stan and walked around. Bought postcards and stamps and Gillian split a chocolate box for Carl and his wife for 26 Kr. (13 apiece) They even gift wrapped it for us. Then walked along the harbor and found cheapest boat to Finland 130 Kr one way. Reasonable fare. Then subway back to Morby Centrum and "home" in the basement.  After another shower, Carl brought down an extra TV set from upstairs, and we watched an AMERICAN western. It was dumb, but very fun to do. (especially dubbed in Swedish w/English subtitles). Now I have many postcards to write, and then sleep. Later. BLF.
PS - tomorrow I get my mail (finally) at AMEX. Yay!! Hooray!

Stockholm - 6/11/84
Postcard Picture is aerial view of Stockholm and Gamla Stan   -  Dear Mom & Eddie & Jill, Hello, I am fine, weather is cold and wet, but improving. This is a marvelous city. Gamla Stan   is the small island that is the "old" city, and it goes back about 700 years. The whole city is lot's of islands. Anyway, let me tell you how I am living cheap. I have perfected the "Rock soup" theory of travel and camping. When I arrive in a city, I stake out nice neighborhoods and then ring a doorbell, look tired, and ask if I can sleep in their backyard. Usually they say yes. As I put up the tent, they often come out to chat a bit, and then end up inviting me in for tea or coffee and something to eat. Then I get a shower & teach them cosmic wimp out. Then, we are friends for life. They wake me up for breakfast, drive me on short tours, invite me to stay inside and/or as long as I like. Often they include dinner. This theory works about 10 out of 10 times and I think it is great! I usually buy them wine or chocolate or something if I am staying more than one night, but even so this is the cheapest way I can think of live well and see the world. Anyway, I am YOUR son, and I deserve the best. Having a great time & so is the rest of the world.
PS - The theory can be adapted for free admission to most museums, movies, food kiosks, etc. pretty often. Your Cheap ( & Clever) Son, Barry.

Stockholm - 6/11/84
Postcard Picture is aerial view of Stockholm with a fish-eye lens - Hello Linda, sorry I called you collect. Next time I won't reverse the charges. I didn't know it was so expensive, but I really do look forward to talking to you. I will get your letters tomorrow & can't wait any longer to hear about events there. Sorry things aren't going so well there, but they will get better. Maybe Walter will give you some hours at the Nook. I am rolling my own cigarettes now as that is the cheapest way to smoke here. Sweden is a beautiful country with hundreds of miles of forests and lakes in the north, full of Laps, which are almost like Indians, reindeer, moose, bears and rabbits the size of dogs. The south is more urban & Stockholm is amazing! It is 14 small islands connected by subways, boats and bridges. Old town here goes back 700 years. I am managing all right, but I miss you very much. Your dad would be very proud of some of my "50 cent" special deals and I am learning more every day. Beer is very weak, and expensive in Sweden, so I have not had a drink in quite awhile, but I will be back in Denmark, Holland, Belgium & Germany soon. But first I will go to Finland as I found a cheaper boat. Then there is also a bit more I want to see here in Sweden. Take care of yourself & don't worry, everything will be all right. I miss you every day. Love, Barry.

Stockholm - 6/11/84
Postcard Picture is 5 views of Gamla Stan   - Hello Pete! I am in Stockholm, but it's a holiday weekend & I can't get my mail till tomorrow. I am just out of a hot & free shower & now I am all clean again. Thank you for taking my collect call, it really made my day! I miss you and everyone there very much (just not enough to quit the great adventure before I go broke). Anyway, it was great to hear your voice, and next time I will pay for the call. If you look at the top picture on the right side of this card, you will see a big statue of an Elfin warrior fighting a winged dragon. They remind me of you and Gordon and playing Melee, so I ate a picnic lunch by that statue and thought of you all & our famous Sunday afternoons spent gaming. I roll my own cigarettes now, as that is the only way I can afford to smoke, and it is rather interesting as my rolling skills must improve. I don't like Swedish beer as it is very weak and twice as expensive as it is weak. So, I have not had a buzz in at least a couple of weeks. I would kill for a sterling and a Marlboro right now, but I guess that is part of the price I must pay. I am meeting lot's of people and having a great time. Wish you were here as well. Anyway, I will write again, so take care of yourself. Your Friend, Barry.
PS- Brussels is the next stop for mail sometime in mid July.

At sea - 6/12/84
Tuesday - 9:30 Swedish, 10:30 Finnish, I am not sure exactly which as I am on a boat in between. Woke up about 10 this morning and had coffee with Carl. Today was his 68th birthday. He was very nice, a great host. Happy birthday Carl. Packed, cleaned up and left about noon and went to AMEX. Got 3 letters from Linda, and I really missed her a lot as I read them. One letter from Mickey at the tax department telling me to come home soon, but to have a good time. Also 1 letter from Mom, Jill and Eddie. They sent me Grandma Simmie's address in case I wanted to write her, but not Gary or Natalie & Bob. Maybe next time I get mail? My next mail stop will be Brussels around 10 July. Mostly it was great hearing from them all, but most of the news was depressing. It makes me homesick, but at the same time glad I am not there. After mail call, I got a ticket for Viking line to Finland. I borrowed Gillian's inter-rail card, flashed it and got a 50% discount. 95 Kr round-trip works out to about $6 American each way. Quite reasonable, but this boat is very cramped and without a cabin, it will be very difficult to get any sleep. Picked up 1 carton of tax free ciggs because they wouldn't let me get two. Also wouldn't sell me beer till tomorrow morning, but at 44 Kr a six, I guess I can live without. After buying the boat ticket, Gillian got a train ticket for London and we arranged to try and meet in Brussels on the 10th of July. Then to Kultaur Husset. No good newspapers. Saw some exhibits and then played chess. I was losing, but caught her off guard and checkmated her. It was fun. Then to the free bus to the boat about 1/2 hour north of the city. In all the times I rode the subway, my 24 hour pass had not been stamped, so if I go back to Stockholm, I will use it again and then sell it. I also could have walked on this boat for free (probably) as no one has yet checked my ticket. Such is life, well for now. BLF.

Suomi - 6/13/84
Postcard Picture is Turko-Abo -   & Suomi - Hello Linda, I am in Finland as I found a boat that cost only $6 from Stockholm to just north of here. I got all three of your letters & one from Micky. I keep rereading them and I miss you so much. Your letters took about 5 to 8 days to arrive. When there is more than one AMEX office in a city, only one handles mail regardless of how you address it, it goes to the one that handles mail. I have been planning a second trip, possibly in the U.S. and Canada & Mexico and maybe you will be with me for that one.  Thank Mikey for the letter, and I will send a card to taxation after the layoff. I plan to see Scott towards the end of the month & maybe we can arrange to travel together awhile. Good luck in biology, and keep up your French, we might need it in Canada. Re: letter #2; Hope the river is recovered from the tornado so we can go camping there again. Tell Joe to let Dale fix his V.W.  so I can have it when I get back. It is hard to fall in a rut living the "gypsy" life, but it's not all roses either. I do play a lot of CWO, but my dice are still OK. I play almost everyday if I can find someone to play with. If you want to spend the quarters, have a good time and think of me. You DESERVE a treat. RE; letter#3; From Dixie USA Norway is in Scandinavia, not the Netherlands. Congratulations on your "A"  in statistics. I told you would get it. I do see the same stars at night and think of you seeing them so far away. You are also in my dreams. Say hello to the Gilbert’s & Doug and Mike. Tell Greasy not to make "you going to work" when you are busy writing me letters. I wish postcards were bigger too, so I will have to find some. Please take good care of yourself and say hello to family and friends for me. I miss you everyday and wonder what you are doing.
PS - Brussels is in Belgium. If you go to Georgetown, call Jill as she might enjoy going with you. She is home for the summer. has Pete found a new job? & is he at his Grace St. address? Did you have fun tubing on the river? I miss the James river experience. Love, Barry.

Exact location unknown - 6/14/84
Finland - Thursday - 2:00 P.M. - I hardly slept at all on the boat as there was one S-O-B after another who was very loud and drunk, and they would stand right in the middle of a room full of  sleeping people talking and laughing. Anyway, looked around town a bit, then hitched to Turko-Abo and spent the morning. Got a ride about 20 Klicks out of Turko-Abo and then hitched 3 hours with no luck at all. Very disgusted and cold. Met an old woman on a bike who took me to her friends house. I pitched my tent and went to sleep about 5 P.M. yesterday, and about 7 it started raining. I am now lying here waiting for it to stop. Not much else to say (or do) until then, so for now, Dry & Bored. BLF.

Helsinki - 6/15/84
Friday - 10:15 A.M. - Finally arrived in Helsinki about 7:30 last night. Checked in to a youth hostel at the Helsinki Olympic Stadium to shower and rest well & because lots of the gear and tent were soaked. 24 Marks for the night. I met a guy from New Jersey who gave me two packs of Winston's and Kurt Vonnegut Jr.'s book "Slaughterhouse 5". Walked downtown and went to a boring Disco. Lots of drunk Russian sailors. Came back and crashed. Undecided about what to do today. Will let you know what I decide(d) later. BLF.

Naantali - 6/15/84
Friday - 9:15 P.M. (21:15) - Having 2nd thoughts about Finland - in spite of the weather and my bad luck earlier, today turned out very nice. Left Helsinki after a short walk through the harbor and mailing postcards to Linda & Jill. Walked about 3 miles to the E-1 and got a lift with a farmer returning from market. It didn't take 10 minutes. He took me about 60 Klicks and then I got another ride in 5 minutes with a parks and recreation man. He bought me a nice lunch with a SALAD. Hot meat, potatoes and veggies. Delightful! Then we toured and inspected several campgrounds. Finally near Turko-Abo he checked into a hotel. He offered me a spot for the night, but it was raining (still) and I had Sweden on my mind. Found out that next week for the midsummer festival they are having massive rock concerts - AC/DC, Blackfoot & Van Halen for openers. If only Linda were here! He had some friends that just put out an album, and asked if he sent me a tape, would I try and get it on the radio. I said I would try, but couldn't promise any results. We went to the hotel bar and he bought me a couple beers, and we shot a few games of pool. I won 2 out of 3. There was an impressive patio with a bigger than life size chess set. Real classy & cool. About 4:30 he drove me to the boat terminal in Naantali  and I dropped my bag and walked back to town. Went to an island (by footbridge) and played on the playground. Then found a canoe rental and convinced them to "lend" me one for free. Paddled about to other islands for an hour or so and considered camping here for a few days. The weather has cleared very nicely and the sun is shining. Then, walked to the marina near the town square to see the upscale cafe's and people. The Presidents summer home is near here, and he arrived by yacht today. While I was sitting there, hanging out, a big boat came from the palace to the slip right, directly in front of me, not 20 feet from my bench. They rang some bells and about 15 people got off the boat. Everyone in the square stood up and people were taking pictures. Yes, it was the President of Finland, out for an evening stroll and dinner. Amazing. Splurged on a hamburger and fries (about $2.50 American) and I am now on the boat waiting to leave. I guess I was wrong about Finland, but I am now ready to on anyway. PS- wrote a card from here to Walter Wright at the Nook & Cranny. The boat is very crowded, perhaps Friday night was not a good choice for travel deck class. Hope I get more rest than last crossing. Later. BLF.

Naantali - 6/15/84
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Naantali - -(C/O The Nook & Cranny) - Dear Walter & Babette, Hello, how is everything there? Better than ever I hope. I have been covering a lot of ground and am having a great time. Thank you both for helping me prepare for it, and keeping me employed. So far I have been through England, Wales, Scotland, A bit of Denmark, All of Norway, Most of Sweden and some of Finland. I am waiting now for the boat to go back to Sweden tonight. Then I will see the West and South and on to Copenhagen. If you wish to write, Linda has an address in Brussels. Please tell her that AC/DC, Blackfoot & Van Halen are playing here for the mid summer festival, and I wish she were here as I know she likes the music. I miss Richmond and my friends, but I will be back soon. The time is really flying by. Say hello to everyone at the Tax department. Take care, and get sales up at the store! Barry.

Helsinki - 6/15/84
Postcard Picture is 3 views of Helsinki - Dear Jill & The Schneiders, Hello, I miss you very much & wish you were here! I received my mail in Stockholm. Sorry about your car & Ocean City & your trip. You would love Norway, Denmark & Sweden, but I find Finland rather iffy. I could certainly find better places, at least by what I have seen, so today I go back to Sweden. Thanks for sending grandma Simmies address, I had forgotten it, but I sent her a card c/o you. Did you get it? Also, sorry I forgot Mothers day, but you know how I am with dates. Still playing a lot of CWO, teaching people everywhere I go. I don't number the postcards anymore because I lost track, but I can follow the line of my map & the dates to arrange them when I get back. I will call home collect as Mr. Eddie Schneider & use our signal system to stay in touch as I cant often find the International Herald Tribune. If everything is OK, don't accept the call. I will try to do this once a week or so, after you get this card. Send Jill to meet me in Amsterdam for a week, we will have lot's of fun. I am getting good at sailing on ships & in about 45 hours total sailing time I have not been seasick once. I guess I have some of uncle Sam in me somewhere. The line on my map is getting fairly impressive. I have covered a lot of ground in such a short time, but I have seen much along the way. Love you all, say hello to everyone, Barry.
PS - Jill, I have talked to Linda & Miss Ball has died. It is really a shame.

Helsinki - 6/15/84
Postcard Picture is Helsinki Olympic stadium - Dear Linda, Hello Comrades. The stadium you see here is now a youth hostel. I spent the night here after being stuck in the rain for about a day and a half. Finland is fairly boring & there are not so many English speaking people. The land of 1,000 lakes is scenic, but I think I will head back to Sweden today, and then south to Copenhagen. There are lots of Russian sailors here in Helsinki & it is strange to see them wandering around. Gasoline is about $4 a gallon & it is very expensive to drive. I am still playing lots of CWO. I think of you every time. I am also doing a lot of travel by boat, about 45 hours or so, total at this point. I usually think of you and Kim watching "Love Boat". If only you were here, but there will be Canada, USA and Mexico, very soon, when you finish school. I hope biology isn't too bad, with that teacher. Try and transfer to Mrs. May, she is very good. Tell Mark I will be in Amsterdam shortly after you get this card, and I think I will catch a long overdue buzz. I haven’t even had a beer in about 2 weeks. Time really seems to fly, with the struggle for daily survival & a place to pitch the tent, food to eat, packing, unpacking, finding a free shower, etc. Always something to keep me busy. Say hello to everyone, and don't forget Walter. See you soon, Love, Barry.

Jonkoping - 6/17/84
Sunday - 10:30 A.M. - Sorry I didn't write yesterday, but it was one of those classic days. It went something like this... Saturday around 5:30 A.M., the idiot next to me on the boat set an alarm that woke him and half the rest of us, so he could get to breakfast. I got up, shaved and brushed my teeth. Read for awhile, then dozed till 7:30. Back in Kaplistan, Sweden shortly thereafter. Free bus south to Stockholm. T-Centralen by 10:30, with my magic "24 hour" transit card. Tourist Information said to take the commuter train to Sodertonjie and catch the E-4 or the E-3. That last train stamped my ticket. Poetic justice? As I walked up the ramp to the highway, I got a ride with a chemist (pharmacist in English), who had worked at NIH stateside. He was with family, in a station wagon going to the summer home for the weekend. Went about 150 Km, then he turned off. 5 minutes later and another ride, about 5 Km with a New Yorker. 15 minute, and ride with a Finn, who didn't speak English. 300 Klicks with him, to about 100 Km away from Goteborg. He let me out under a bridge in the POURING rain. ( BUCKETS, I mean!) (cats & dogs even). I sat there and ate sandwiches & covered my pack with the rain gear. About 1 hour later I got a ride with two cool guys on a "run" from Holland with some hash. Rode with them awhile, and when I started to drink my litre of mjolk (milk) that I had just bought, they pointed out the big picture on the carton. It was a pot leaf, with about 4 paragraphs of warnings in Swedish. That's how I found out they were on a "run". They caught me a buzz. Had a tape of the Hampton, Virginia Rolling Stones concert where the Stones say "welcome Virginia", etc. Decided to ride with them to Jonkoping , where I guess they needed to make some deliveries. I stayed with them all day, and visited lots of people. Saw a lot of the town. Drank some half decent beer. They took me to a kiosk and bought some huge kebabs, and I got to eat. Then to their friends to sleep. Hot shower this morning, then they will drive me to Goteborg. What luck! Also, heard Huey Lewis (I want a new drug), and missed Linda very much. Anyway, until later. BLF.

Trollhattan - 6/17/84
Sunday/Monday - 17th/18'th - Midnight exactly - I am now in another town outside Stockholm, but I don't feel like getting the map out to remind me where. Anyway, I am still with Pete & Hagen, they decided not to go to Goteborg, but arranged a ride for me in the morning. Pete let me stay here at his place tonight. Lazy day. Drove around, played Putt Putt. Hagen gave me a book and took me for a kebob again. We went to the store and chipped in for dinner. I spent under 30 Kr in the last 48 hours. Joe was with us all day as well. Played CWO a lot, got some sun, saw a nice canal with about 30 lochs, a river, some falls and a lake. Good music, clean, full, have ciggs and a place to sleep again. What a pleasant run of luck. & Caught a buzz too. Wonder what tomorrow will bring? ces la vie. Later. BLF. (Trollhattan is the town I am in, I only know this because I just checked the map)

Goteborg - 6/18/84
Monday - 11:30 P.M. - In Goteborg tonight at Gundar's flat. (the guy Gillian and I met up north). Peters friend Christa drove me here this morning. We played mini-golf and caught a nice buzz. Peter is supposed to pick me up here Thursday to take me to the big midsummer festival party. Then, perhaps, he says he would like to travel with me a week or two. After midsummer I will definitely be ready to move on. Very little else for now. Still clean, well fed and sheltered. Good run of luck, hope it lasts. BLF.

Goteborg - 6/19/84
Tuesday 19:13 (7:15 P.M.) - Well, today Gundar took me out to breakfast. Then I went to two museums - nothing spectacular, but interesting. Then ran into a guy I met yesterday briefly. We had an apple, a smoke and talked awhile. Then walked to the train station, bus terminal, airport. There is a big shopping mall, and I bought postcards. Sent a "group" card to Linda, Pete, Joe and Dale. Hope all 4 parts arrive and they have fun reading them. *   I also sent a card to grandma Simmie. Gundar called the boat yard and arranged for me to take a tour of where they build ships tomorrow morning. I went to the market and bought a kilo of cheese on sale for 22 Kr. Also a big loaf a fresh bread. Just relaxing now, so until later, BLF.
* editors note: the cards were written overlapping, and so could not be read individually,  all 4 need to be placed on one surface and aligned.

Goteborg - 6/19/84
Postcard Picture is 5 views of Goteborg - Dear Grandma Simmie, Hello, I hope everything is as good there as it is here. I apologize for not writing to you directly until now, but in leaving, I forgot to get your address, and fortunately Mom & Eddie sent it to me in Stockholm. They also say you made me a new afghan. Thank you very much, this one will be treated more carefully and will not end up like the other one. I am having a GREAT time. Midsummer festival is this Friday and Saturday in Scandinavia. I saw the President of Finland one evening, going from the Royal yacht to a restaurant. I am meeting lot's of people, but I miss all of you at home. Take care, say hello to everyone, Love, your grandson, Barry.

Goteborg - 6/19/84
Postcard: This was a series of 4 postcards, one each mailed to Pete, Joe, Dale & Linda. The writing was split 8 ways between the 4 cards, so they must be placed correctly to read the message. Only 3 of the cards were recovered, so this is the best I can do at reconstructing the complete message. Pictures are all views of Goteborg. When assembled it read as follows; -  Hello, how are you all tonight? Bet it was a real pain assembling together, but now that you have, grab a nice cold beer, perhaps even a good smoke and see if you can now read this message. I wish I was there partying with all of you tonight, but we are together in spirit if not in person. I have been having a good run of luck for the last few days. I bought a litre of milk, and it had a picture of a very familiar leaf, and a warning about dangerous drugs. It started raining and my ride let me out under a bridge. I stood there a long time, I had time to curse my luck, when finally a car with two young guys stopped and picked me up. It turned out they were "on a run" from Holland, and heading for many different towns. I rode with them for 3 days and have really had fun. Anyway, now I am in Goteborg and mid summer festival is this Friday & That is Scandinavia's happiest holiday. Should be fun. In Finland I was very lucky, for as I sat on the docks of a marina, I was very lucky and a yacht pulled up and out jumped the president of Finland. I was very surprised. I hope you can read this card, it is tough keeping all the edges aligned as I have marked them. Pete, have you found a new job? Are you still in the apartment or do I need a new address? Joe, how do you like you new car? Dale, I have found some great beer cans for you, but the beer is 2% alcohol and very expensive, so I am not buying any full cans. Linda, I miss you very much as always. Finland wasn't so bad as I thought when I wrote you last. Do you have CWO dice handy so you can play tonight, or did you forget to bring them? Where are you all as you read this? Write me and let me know if you have a good time. I am now, as I am writing these cards, I am sitting where the arrow points on the 2nd card. This is a neat complex with a shipping terminal and a huge shopping center. Pete, I still know where my towel is. Dale, you must read a trilogy of books by Tom Sharp. The first book is called "Wilt" and is even as good as the Hitch Hikers Guide to the Galaxy.  If you are having trouble just reading this card, imagine what it is like trying to write like this. Well, if you have gotten this far in decoding my "group Party Card" congratulations. You all deserve it for figuring out the terrible code. I have arranged a tour of a shipyard tomorrow, where they build some of the biggest ships in the world, and oil rigs and drilling platforms too.  I tried to find a good inner tube there, so I can go sailing too. I saw some very old dominoes in a museum today and want to play a game with you all.  I also miss beating Pete in our frequent games of Risk. Let me tell you my "Rock soup" theory of backyard camping. Linda, your dad will certainly appreciate this. To find a place to stay, I find a nice neighborhood and ring the doorbell of a house with a nice back yard. When they come to the door I introduce myself and ask if I can sleep in their backyard, and I always find someone to say yes, and before I finish pitching the tent, they usually invite me in for coffee. We talk about here and there, play CWO,  and then they often break out the free beer they always have hidden somewhere. Then I go to sleep, only to be awakened in the morning for breakfast. I often leave my bags there as I explore the area, and then usually arrive back about dinner time. By now, we are old friends, and I usually get fed and invited in to the guest bedroom for the second night. Also have shower privileges by this time. This is how I do the majority of my camping, and it is a good example of the only way to survive Scandinavia  on just 30 Swedish crowns a day. Call me crazy! I have had to stay in a hostel just to sleep one time, and that was in Finland. They are too expensive, and also the hostels don't feed you for free, or take you out to see the local sights, and they don't afford much privacy with 4 or more people to a bedroom. So I like my method best. Anyway, I will write again soon. Drive carefully when you all finish tonight and write a letter so I can hear about Richmond. Stay well, see you soon, Barry.

Editors note; each card has a short note as follows - "Linda, Pete, Joe & Dale, To read this postcard, you must find the other 3 people. Each of you has one quarter of the complete message. Joe has the instructions on his card. Good luck and have fun"

Additional instructions from Joe's card; "To read this card, first match and align the squares which contain numbers in numerical order (1,2,3) for the first half of this message. For the circles, match and align the letters A,B,C to complete the second half. Each card is also numbered in the corner near the stamp.

Goteborg - 6/20/84
Wednesday 7:00 P.M. - very long day today. Woke up at 6:45, shower, dress etc. Went to central station, took train to bus to Arendals Varnet, a very big ship yard, in fact the biggest in Europe. I was the only one on the tour. They build oil rigs and all kinds of HUGE platforms and ships. Fascinating. Then to the Volvo factory for “package” tour. Also free, and similar to the Philip Morris, in that they ride you through the factory in little tram cars. Then back to central station (the risky way... with out buying a ticket) and Ahlenes for a litre of mjolk and a sweet roll. Then a pleasant walk, (the sun finally broke out) to Liseberg, the largest amusement park in Scandinavia. I could not afford to go in, but I walked around the park gardens and saw beautiful carved and sculpted bushes and shrubs. Took a picture of a Bunny with several colored flowers for features. Then to the art museum. Very impressive. I REALLY enjoyed this one. Paintings and sculptures mostly. A few Rembrandts and Van Gogh’s. Nice. But my favorites were all Scandinavians that I never heard of. Probably MY ignorance. One in particular of a young girl and an old man in a fishing boat. The sea is rough, the people are leaning and looking "ahead". Strong feeling and emotion, and raises lots of questions. Inspiring. Expressive. Then, wandered for awhile and ended up in a park with a blond nurse. We played CWO and had some fun. When I stopped to buy mjolk at a little store on the way back, I asked if they had any old fruit they would be willing to discount. They gave me 3 bananas. Very nice. Also, Gundar did my laundry for me today while I was out. What a nice surprise. Now I am relaxing over a smoke, finishing Slaughterhouse 5. Excellent reading. Mentions Kilgore Trout, and others from Cats in the cradle, God bless you Mr. Rosewater and others. Interesting. BLF.

Exact location Unknown - 6/21/84
Thursday - 11:00 P.M. - Not much I can say about today. Tried to call Christa and Peter but no answer. Started walking south. Hitched ALL day with little success. Many rednecks partying, and making a very hard time for hitchhikers. My new flashlight that I bought in Denmark is dead. Perhaps I shall buy a good one. That's about all for now. Weather is rotten. It is too dark to see, lightning has begun and it will soon be raining. I better find a place for my tent NOW. Later.  BLF.

Copenhagen - 6/22/84
I am in a youth hostel in Copenhagen. A cop stopped me in Sweden and warned me of the 200 Kr fine for hitching on the E-6. I got a ride shortly after that, and avoided a fine or jail. Got to the ferry and while trying to hitch a ride aboard, met an American who gave me a 100 Kr note. VERY NICE! He paid for this night in the hostel and the boat trip. The boat went from Helsiborg Swerge to Helsingor Denmark. Hitched to Copenhagen (Kobenhaven) in the rain. Went to the 1st bar I could find for a cold Tuborg (cheap again, YAY). Met people smoking hash in the bar. Drank a few beers with them, but they made me kind of nervous so I left shortly afterwards. I found this hostel, and showered. Going to eat a sandwich and write some postcards. Then see if the rain stops. Later. BLF.

Copenhagen - 6/22/84
Postcard Picture is Aerial view of Grenen (where the two seas meet) - Dear Grandmother & Grandpop, Hello from Denmark, actually Copenhagen at the Moment. It is raining right now & I am at a youth hostel in the city. I wish Grandpop were here to help me chase some women, and you and aunt Marta to help me with the wine and slot machines. I think of all of you often. I (even with sandpaper in my pants) am doing well roughing it. Munster cheese and several other very good varieties are very cheap here. I met the president of Finland & he asked about Mr. Cisenfeld. I told him you were busy, but he will call you Tuesday. Well, I did see him, but I am just kidding about the phone call. The picture on this card is the north tip the island Jutland, the northernmost point in Denmark. Two seas, the North and the Baltic meet here and it is very nice. I camped near the beach in this picture for 2 nights. All my equipment is doing very well. Say hello to CJ, Jill & everyone, & take care of yourselves. I miss you. Love, Barry.

Copenhagen - 6/24/84
Sunday - 9:45 A.M. - Hardly any sleep last night. I am now hiding in the basement of the hostel, hoping not to get kicked out during the mandatory daytime closing. I want to sleep. Went to a pub Friday night and met some people. They were drinking beer and smoking a hash pipe. I took a couple of drags, it must not have been hash as I have NEVER felt like that before. Saturday, I left the hostel at 9 in the morning and walked downtown. Bought new sunglasses (cool John Lenin round frames, and only about $1 American) and looked about. As I got to Christiania it started pouring down rain. Went to the nearest pub to wait it out. Met Henrick and his sister. We played CWO, then ended up at his apartment for dinner. His wife, mother and sister and I all ate and drank some wine. it poured for about 6 hours and finally slowed to a drizzle by about 9. Then I went to the commune at Christiania. Very dirty and run down. Lots of people selling hash, opium, heroin, cocaine etc. right on the street. A few seedy bars and lots of seedy people. Then to madam Tussaud’s wax museum and Tivoli gardens. I met a Jewish girl working there. She wouldn't let me in for free, but we made a date for 1:30 when she gets of work. Should be fun, she is very attractive.

Copenhagen - 6/24/84
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Kobenhavn - Sunday, 24 June. To the Schneiders & J4 Hello again from Denmark. Kobenhavn is a lovely city, just wish they could decide how to spell it *  I am fine, but the weather is not. Rain, rain, rain. I have been very lucky and have not been caught in the middle of nowhere in the rain except once. Midsummer festival was yesterday and was very fun. Lots of bon fires, singing and dancing in the streets, wild costumes and all. It's a bit like Halloween for grown ups, and the biggest party in Scandinavia. There are lots of Americans in Copenhagen & I sometimes talk to them, other times I pretend I can't speak English. I sent postcards to grandma Simmie, grandmother and Mom-Mom this week, so everyone should be happy and know I am still doing OK. I miss you all. Do you ever hear from Alan, Linda, Pete or anyone else after I write? Anyway, in spite of the weather (even now it is raining) I am having a great time. Mostly. There are some days though, when it just doesn't pay to get out of your tent! All in all, it is great. Say hello to CJ and Jill (if they don't see this card) and everyone else. Take care, hope everything is all right, and I will try and signal next weekend. Love, Barry
[EDITORS NOTE: there are 4 distinct spellings printed on the cards back]

Copenhagen - 6/24/84
Postcard Picture is of a sidewalk cafe in Kobenhavn - Hello Linda, its me again. I figure since postcards are so small, since it's still raining & since you might like a picture of Copenhagen, that I would send 2 cards instead of one. I started to tell you on the Garfield card about midsummer festival. I was going to stay in Sweden for it, but decided it might be better here. In Norway, Finland, Sweden & Denmark, the people ALL said their particular celebration was the best. Anyway, I ended up here, & it was pretty wild. People dress up in makeup & costumes, light bon fires everywhere, even in the middle of the city, & sing, dance and party in the streets. There is much drinking and merrymaking, and it reminds me of Halloween. There is a small island called Christianshavn in Copenhagen that used to be a military base. In the 60's hippies took it over when the government abandoned it, and made it a free commune. The government ordered it cleared in 78, but it is still here. The island is like a small country, and beyond normal laws. There are some very strange “star wars” type bars, drugs in the streets, and everywhere people walking around nude, and so on. I walked through in the daytime, but even I would not go near there at night. Very strange. It is still raining harder than ever. Damn. It is also cold and windy. I miss Sunday mornings in our apartments. Slow starts, a beer and maybe a river trip with you. We must go to Canada after you graduate, good idea. That will be fun. I still miss you and wish you were here. Love, Barry.

Copenhagen - 6/25/84
Monday - 3:00 A.M. - I got lucky today. Stayed in the hostel after closing, took a nice nap and wrote some postcards. They eventually dissevered my basement hiding place, but let me stay anyway. About 2 I let my luggage locked up and went to a park and saw the biggest swans I have ever seen. Then went to a pub and met Christian and played CWO. He invited me for dinner. We watched Danish football (soccer) Spain vs. Denmark for the “superbowl” championship. The game went to overtime, and then Denmark lost. Then, back to the pub, I met new friends who invited me to stay for the night. I got Drunk. Had fun. Ate the biggest crabs I have ever seen. Tomorrow, I tour the Tuborg/Carlsberg breweries. BLF."

Copenhagen - 6/27/84
Wednesday 7:00 P.M. - I went to..... think I am too tired to write....
 
 

The Continent
 

At Sea - 6/28/84
Thursday 9:30 A.M. - I am on the boat leaving Korsor Denmark for Kiel, Germany. Tuesday morning I slept till about 10, then Christian came by and we went to Tuborg Breweries. I saw a giant bottle of beer that would hold one and a half million bottles. The tour was free, and was also in English. One thing I really liked was the aging cellars. Each tank, the guide claims, that if you wanted to drink it yourself, you would need to drink 20 bottles a day for 70 years. Just to empty one tank. After the tour, they got everyone pretty drunk, and then sent us on our way. I managed to leave with a good 7 or 8 full bottles too. Then to the University student center. Then zoological museum. Then I bought a package of hamburger and a can of spaghetti holes. Cooked it at the student union. Then with Christian to the dart club. Drank beer and played darts. Then taught them CWO and we all played for hours. They also taught me the local dice game, called Bullshit (similar to liars poker dice). Back to Henricks to sleep. Wednesday morning I slept late. Got up, listened to “the wall” by Pink Floyd and drank a couple cups of coffee. Then to the park for a beer with Henrick. Then we got Dennis and went to Christianshavn for awhile. Then to AMEX to get a money order converted to travelers checks, but once again they would not do it. I am pissed with all the AMEX crap. A beer in the town square and then Dennis and Henrick went back uptown. I walked a bit and went back to Christianshavn. Met a few nice people, and got half drunk watching all the activity. Then I walked back home to the local pub. Christian, Per, Henrick, Dennis and the others were all there to give me a last night in Kobenhaven Party. Played CWO and won lots of free beer. Left about 1. Washed my hair and shaved. Up at 5 this morning to catch a junket deal for a 1 day shopping trip to Germany. The stores pay most of the cost, to get Danes to shop tax free in Germany. 19 Kroner for the bus from Kobenhaven to the boat, and the boat to Kiel. But...I am supposed to go back to Denmark, or so they say. I will just walk off the boat and away from the bus to the shopping stores. Soon, I will see Scott Rittenhouse. Scandinavia was great, but it is time to move on. Today is my 2 month mark in traveling. The time just flies by. Nearly on budget, I have spent only $450 in the two months to date. I did go a little overboard in Copenhagen though. I will make it up in Germany. BLF.

Hanover - 6/28/84
Wednesday - 9:30 P.M. - Rained all day until about 7. Germany didn't even stamp my passport, I wonder why? Hitched to Hanover, which is not bad for such a late start. I camped by the side of the autobahn and am hoping it doesn't rain more so I can get an early start and see Scott tomorrow. Not much else for today, just another “in transit” day. I didn't think it would affect me, but I have very mixed feelings about being in Germany, particularly when I see the old people (who participated? in WW II). Time will tell. Later. BLF.

Amberg - 6/29/84
Friday - 7:30 A.M. - I am in Amberg sitting near the US army base, in front of a grocery store and the Eis Cafe' & Pizzeria Roma. Scott has probably been here before, but I don't know as the dumb f**k is at the Czech border on patrol. What a drag. Got to base late yesterday and at the gate they told me he wouldn't be back till Tuesday. I walked towards town after watching the US flag flying for awhile. It rained and I went to the Rock Cafe' for a beer. I was a little pissed because they would not let me on the base to cash a check or shower.... nothing but "Step away from the gate sir" from the sentry. Anyway, I went to another bar down the street and met a couple of GIs. They got me really drunk and let me stay at their apartment off base for the night. They fed me frozen American pizza from the PX, gave me a whole carton of Marlboro ciggs this morning before they left. Now I am sitting here trying to figure out what to do or where to go. I would like to take a nap or an hour. Anyway, at least I am clean and OK for now. BLF.

Neumarkt - 6/29/84
Friday - 5:00 P.M. - I walked from Amberg out to road #299 and got a ride with a red sports car, only the 2nd car to pass by. Klaus, a student who has finished his term today drove me to Neumarkt and showed me around town. Took me to his parents home. Nice, very nice place. I took the nap I so badly wanted. Then a nice shower, shave, meal and later tonight we go to a disco, The Broadway Disco. Should have a couple of nice days here. More good luck. BLF.

Munich - 7/1/84
Monday -  Terrific weekend. Ate all kinds of good food. Klaus and his brother Rhiner were most generous. Saturday, I slept late and when I woke up they took me out to lunch, then back to watch videos they had rented. Drank a few beers. Then went to Ansbach to watch Klaus and his band play at a very nice ( & very expensive/exclusive) disco. Drank lots of free beer (Thanks Klaus) and then back to Neumarkt and the disco there. Then home to eat again and watch more videos. Very little sleep, but almost like a “day off” from traveling. No worries. Sunday we went to a restaurant about noon and once again they paid the tab (although I did offer to this time). Then to his grandmothers for a short visit. I called home and signaled Friday night, and even though I knew they wouldn't accept the call, it was still a bit disappointing when they refused it. But, at least they know I am safe and sound, and that information too, was free. Anyway, after a visit to his grandmother, we went to a quarry and went swimming. (Topless beach) Then home to do my laundry and shower. I got my hair cut at a barbershop, and then we played a game of Risk (Risko in German). I won. Today, up early and hitched to Munich. I am tired of hearing about the TV shows Dallas & Dynasty EVERYWHERE. I also wonder if anyone in Europe has an automatic transmission? The autobahns are neat. I guess it is now time to see Munich, so until later. BLF.

Munich - 7/2/84
Monday - time unknown - Rain and Sun, back and forth all day. I never found a place to leave my bag, so I wore it all day Whew!!! Wrote to Gillian and told her I would be in Brussels as arranged. Also wrote Linda and Mom. Went to AMEX, and once again they refused to cash THEIR money order for THEIR travelers checks, or in fact cash it at all. I raised a big fuss, told them I was a card member, and it was their money order, and if they wanted they could call the states and confirm it, but that they damn well better cash it one way or the other. It took quite a while, but finally they did. I am very tired from walking in the rain, so I went in a pub. Met some people and drank 4 or 5 pilsners. Asked for the tab, but the other folks in the pub  picked it up for me. Very lucky again. Then, less than 3 blocks away I found a small residential area and saw 2 women talking on the street. I asked if I could sleep in one of their gardens. One said fine, but had just gotten new grass put down, and she was afraid I would damage it. She called her neighbor, who invited me to stay in her home. She fed me and gave me a key to the house and said to stay as long as I liked. Surprise. Very nice. Shower, full kitchen privileges - including food, key,  privet bedroom AND she would not accept any money from me, and as always will not let me work or pay in any way. What a wonderful part of my life cycle. Patience, perseverance and not worrying too much really seem to pay. What can I say. This is a close as possible to the "true" free life. I am proud and glad that I had the courage to live ( at least for awhile) one of my dreams. It is good. Very tired, so for now...until later. BLF.

Munich - 7/2/84
Postcard Picture is 6 views of Munich - Dear Linda, Hello from Germany! I have been here about one week, and I have not been put in the ovens yet. Guess I am lucky. I went to Amberg to see Scott, but his dumb ass was on the Czech border. Met some other soldiers who took me pub hopping, gave me a carton of cigarettes and put me up for the night. Then, leaving Amberg, the guy who picked me up hitch hiking took me to his parents house & I spent 3 days in Neumarkt with him. We played Risk, & I won every game. Went to pubs & bars. He fed me and took me to restaurants. Real nice rich kid. I will probably go to see Scott again at the end of the month, depending on what I hear from you when I get my mail next week in Brussels. I miss you very much when I see Garfield, or the stars, or a pretty girl that looks like you. Hope everything is going OK. How is Pete? Everyone else is doing fine I would imagine, so say hello for me. The weather is a little better, but it still rains most of the time. Can't wait to get my mail & hear from you. Until later, see you soon. Love Barry.
PS- If you go to Bush Gardens, think of me in Bavaria, the real old country. It seems to be Oktoberfest all year here.
PSS- It is getting late & I must be "going to work" and find a place to sleep tonight. Tell Greazy & everyone at taxation hi from me.

Munich  - 7/2/84
Postcard Picture is 6 views of Munich - Hello Mom & Eddie & Jill, you must have gotten my earlier cards, as I signaled the other night and it worked just fine. I will try to signal one time or week or so. I am looking forward to getting my mail next week and hearing what is going on there. I came to Germany to see my friend Scott in Amberg, but he was in the field at the Czech border and I missed him. Most of the young people here are all right, and the scenery is beautiful, food is cheap, but a lot of the older people are real shit's. I am having a good time though, and meeting lots of people everywhere. Especially at AMEX offices, where they never do what they should do without a big argument first. If only they watched their advertisements, they would KNOW what they are supposed to do. Anyway, believe it or not I have put on a little weight, not fat, but eating well & healthy. Everywhere I go the people talk about 2 American things; Dallas & Dynasty. It's a shame that's what America sells the world, as half the people think it is real. Amazing. Well it is getting kind of late, and I must find a place to sleep tonight, so it is time to get to work. I miss you all, say hello to everyone for me. Love, Barry. PS - Please bump my 13 July flight back as far as possible and send me info when you can. I am still on, or under budget and planning to continue having a great time for awhile.

Munich  - 7/3/84
Tuesday 11:00 A.M. - Slept in today - wonderful feeling in my own bed! Then up & bath, clean up, put things away, quick sandwich and a smoke. Then left for Englischer Garten, a very large park. There are canals with graded steppes that make wonderful white water for tubing. Randy, Hunter, Pete, Gordon & Linda would love it. Bought a new flashlight and a light tarp drop cloth for the tent. Went to an open air market and bought 2 big pretzels and a hunk of cheese. Wandered around, and about 8 I went to a free circus and watched some of the best jazz musicians I have ever heard. Drank two beers and stayed until 10. Then passed through the red light district. Not much there. Passed lots of McDonalds and Wendy's. Very tempted to buy a good old Big Mac and Bier, but decided no. Rain on and off all day again. I must have walked at least 15 miles. oh tired. Time to grab a quick bite of cheese and get some sleep. Later. BLF.
PS- I saw a Bier Garten called Bongout, and it made me think of Jill. I have never seen such weather. Very sunny one minute, then boom - pouring rain for 5 minutes or so, then sun, then rain. Strange indeed.

Munich - 7/5/84
Thursday - 12 Noon - Getting ready to leave Munich in about an hour or so. Yesterday was very bad weather, so I slept all day and thought about my friends at home, wondered how they were celebrating the 4th of July, etc. Also a lot about myself, my age, what will I do when I get back and who or who not I may be doing it with. Sometimes it is frightening. It goes by so quickly. Anyway, I saw a poster downtown for a performance of Jesus Christ Superstar, which has always been one of my favorites, and decided to go to the theater. Found my way there pretty easily and really enjoyed the show. Great music, always has been one of my favorites. Casting was good, but every time I have ever seen this play, Judas is a black. Curious, eh? I thought of last time with Linda at the open air theater in Richmond, Dogwood Dell. After the play, the drummer and the guitarist rocked out, and then Mary Magdalene & Judas did “Let the sun shine”, and Jesus did “I got mine”, both from another favorite “Hair”. Very nice. It was a big holiday here. The day of Catholics and Marien Platz was filled with people and many bands. I could not walk through the crowd it was so thick, and this was at 12 midnight. Stole a ride on the subway halfway back to the University and found a nice pub. Bought a beer, and the young bartender kept filling the glass as he was an ex-hitch hiking traveler himself. I ended up nice and drunk, came home and made a big sandwich, and then to sleep. Weather looks really threatening now, and I am not sure it is the best time to hitch a lift out of the city now. But what must be, must be. I have been very lucky the last couple of weeks, and once again I sure hope the luck lasts. It is easy to get used to good luck. Anyway, time to be “going to work”. I must pack, clean up, clean my room and thumb towards Brussels. Later. BLF.

Antwerpe - 7/7/84
Saturday - about 5:30 P.M. - I am now in Antwerpe, Belgium. Leaving Munich there were 4 of us stacked up on the ramp waiting for rides. After about one and a half hours I got mine. On to Wurzburg and there I sat for about 4 hours with no less than 50 (or more) hitch hikers. Met a few that were all right. Finally got a lift about halfway to Frankfurt and was going to make camp  when a Volkswagen van full of American GI's pulled in to gas up. They gave me a ride to Frankfurt. I pitched my tent right by the autobahn, drank a beer and slept. Next morning I cleaned up in the restaurant WC and met another hitch hiker who was waiting for his ride to finish eating. She (the driver) came out and I asked if I could ride with her too. She took me, and about 100 Klicks later, the other guy got out. She asked me to drive for awhile. Great fun!!! We played Putt Putt and I used a trampoline for about 15 minutes, impressing her with many flips, loops and rolls. Then we drove just past the border in the Netherlands and camped on a farm with pigs on one side, cows on the other, sheep on one side and trees on the other. Very nice. Today, she drove me to Antwerpe. Nice girl. Thanks. I found the  central train station and got some money and checked in to a hostel in the Jewish section of town. Tomorrow will come, but for now I am clean and happy (and hungry, but that is another story). Later. BLF.

Brussels - 7/8/84
Sunday - 8:00 P.M. - I walked out of Antwerpe (Anverse) and got a short ride, maybe 10 Klicks, then walked about 10, stopped for water at a Gulf gas station. It is very hot, about 30 degrees. Celsius. While there, I got a ride with 2 people who had an American Hitchhiker. They took us both to the central station in Brussels. I got a map and found the hostel, picked up a message there that Gillian would arrive at 7 A.M. on the 10th. Very Good. Then went SW to the outskirts of the city. Stopped at a sidewalk cafe' for beer and met Christian, Eric, Patricia and Rocky. Played CWO, won 2 beers, lost none. Christian is letting me stay at his apartment for a few nights. Going drinking tonight, a bit of beer, maybe even some wine. Good day overall. Later. BLF.

Brussels - 7/8/84
Still Sunday - Now it is around 12:15 A.M. - Christian turned out to be queer as a three dollar bill. I had to leave his place about 9 this evening. I got half drunk and walked south and west some more. I found a house with garden on the 3rd try. Nice people (just found a spider and put it back outside the tent) They fed me, gave me a bath and a city map - showed me where the AMEX office was (for mail call YAY). Then, off to the corner pub. one dollar bought 2 beers. I made a few new friends. They bought me a few beers, and gave me addresses should I need them, after hearing the story about my pal Christian. Anyway, later. BLF.

Brussels - 7/9/84
Monday - 6:15 P.M. -  I am sitting in a park near the house I am camped at, trying to cool off after a long, hot day. Woke up about 9 this morning eager to pick up my mail. Broke camp and went in search of a morning toilette, as the people in the house left for work very early. Went to the pub for a shave, toothbrush, contact lenses, etc. Then off to AMEX finally, I got mad at them AGAIN, but did succeed in cashing about $40 in travelers checks. Then to the nearest sidewalk cafe' to get a beer at a sunny table and read my mail. It makes me feel good and sad at the same time. I miss everyone and it is good to hear from them. I think if this journal ever becomes a book I will call it “Stone Soup” in honor of Possibility thinking. When Pete, Dale, Joe & Linda got together to read the 4 part postcard, they each wrote a few sentences on a postcard from Richmond for me. It was great. I also got 5 letters from Linda, and she sounds much better than last time. 2 from Mom, one a short note telling me she had mailed the other. I found that quite amusing. Everything there seems to be going a bit better as well. I miss Jill and wish she would write me. Also, CJ wrote a nice letter, and it was good hearing from him, things seem to be well for him. Still nothing from Alan or Kerry though. After mail call I bought postcards and sent them out, 7 in all, and it took me at least an hour. Then wandered around in the sun, ate a peach at the grand market plais. Saw a castle, a stadium and a museum. Left a message at the youth hostel for Gillian in case I miss her at the train station in the morning. She should arrive at 7. It will be good seeing her again. Belgium is interesting. Lots of bars, lots of languages. Wide variety of people. Very international. Pretty parks and monuments, good smells. Kids with hula hoops playing in the street. Horse drawn carriages, old street cars. buses, cars and every sort of 2 and 3 and 4 wheeled vehicle imaginable. I am down to 5 real cigarettes, and then back to rolling my own again. What a drag. It is getting late, so I better be going now. BLF.

Brussels - 7/9/84
Postcard Picture is 6 views of Brussels - Dear Mom, Eddie & Jill, Bon Jour from Brussels. I got your letters today. In the future, please note, when there is more than one AMEX office in one city, ONLY one of them handles mail. So which ever office you send it to, it goes to the one that handles mail. Also, there is only one in Brussels, the other addresses are in different languages, as all streets in, cafe's, etc. have 3 names - one each in German, French and Flemish. Anyway, I was very happy to get the mail. Glad things are OK. Tried to call, but from Belgium it is impossible to call collect. I will call next week anyway, as you suggest in your letter. To cross the sea for free, just go to the trucks getting on the ferry and they are more than happy to let you ride on and off the boat with them. Does that answer your question? Stone soup is still cooking. The weather is fantastic. Send next mail to Bern, Switzerland. I will be there around 10 August, taking a picture of the bears for you. Say hello to all, love, Barry.
PS- I stayed 2 days in the Jewish ghetto in Antwerp and it was very interesting. Tell Grandpop I used his name here and it was better than the Gold AMEX card. Just Kidding.

Brussels - 7/9/84
Postcard Picture is the Galleries St. Hubert - Dear Grandma Simmie, Bon Jour. I am in Brussels & having a great time. Hope everything is fine there. I think of you often. Sorry I haven't written so often, but I trust my parents keep you informed as to my travels. It is sometimes hard to write to everyone all the time, but my thoughts are with you and I try and write more often. Please forgive me. I spent a couple of days in the Jewish ghetto in Antwerp and it was fascinating. The music, food and people everywhere are very nice. Take care of yourself and I will see you soon. Your loving grandson, Barry

Brussels - 7/9/84
Postcard Picture is a night view of a pedestrian street - Pete, Bon Jour, I loved the post card from Richmond. I miss you all very much & especially river Sunday's. I played Risk in Germany with some Stone Soup friends I stayed with a few days. Yellow won of course. Thought of our many late night games. Those were very good days. I went to see Jesus Christ Superstar at a theater and the performance was very good. They did songs from “Hair” for an encore. Excellent, it reminded me of Dogwood Dell, Linda and you. I went to a very good open air jazz concert and drank too much good beer and got drunk. Me and my compass had trouble finding our tent at 4 in the morning, but alas well that ends well. Next week I will be in Amsterdam. I am glad you all got together and read the puzzle card. How are Gordon, Collins, Hunter & the rest? Say hello to Dale & Joe also. Take care of yourself and write me in Bern, Switzerland. I will be there 10 August. The weather is finally nice again. My equipment is holding up fine. I will see you soon, Take care, your friend, Barry.
PS- I went TUBING in a canal network in Munich where they create white water. You would have loved it!
PPS- I went to see stupid Scott & he was at the border for a week. I will go back in 2 weeks.

Brussels - 7/9/84
Postcard Picture is typical ancient quarter - Bon jour Linda. I am in Brussels and just got my mail. I love reading your letters, but it makes me miss you very much. Congratulations on biology. Industrial psyche is super easy and you will get an “A” I know. The river trip you tell of is my favorite. I made it several times last year. In Munich I tubed in a canal in Englisher gardens where they make white water. I missed you and thought of our river Sundays. Glad you did not get laid off at work. Concentrate on your school though, as I want to be at YOUR graduation in May, and see your dazzling class ring. I was in Antwerp and saw a diamond mine, but could not get a sample for you. I will be in Bern Switzerland around 10 August, so if you like you may write there. I will try and call sometime, and will call early in the morning. Right now, you are probably waking up for work, as it is one here, it is about 6 there. I wish I were waking up with you. I am glad you could solve my postcard puzzle, and I really enjoyed the post card you all sent back! Hope it was fun. Say hello to all, Love, Barry.
PS- Next week, Netherlands and Amsterdam. Tell Joe to watch for a package, maybe.
PPS - The weather is very good now!

Brussels - 7/9/84
Postcard Picture is the Grand Place, with a flower carpet - Bon Jour CJ. I got your letter today and enjoyed hearing from you. I knew you would appreciate my stone soup strategy. My finances are doing quite well, and for the most part I do fine on $5 dollars a day. Sometimes I splurge a little and spend $10 - $12. Sometimes I am very good  and spend none. Always something to do or somewhere to go. The weather is fantastic now. I will probably be another six months or so at least, at this rate. I am healthy, clean and fairly well fed. My equipment is doing fine. I will be in Berne, Switzerland on about 10 August if you care to write again. Say hello to Ed, & Mike Alber. The women and the beer here are both marvelous. Next week I go to the Netherlands. I think of you often and miss you very much. Wish you were here. Also, don't be too jealous that you are not, for this life style does have its Moments. It is not all glamour, there are times it doesn't pay to get out of your tent in the morning. But mostly, it is very good. Love, Barry

Brussels - 7/11/84
Wednesday about 1:00 P.M. - I woke up about 5:30 yesterday morning and went to all THREE train stations looking for Gillian. About 8:30 I went to the hostel and she was there. I missed her at Gare Central. I tried to buy a Pepsi in the machine at the hostel, but the money slot was clogged right to the top. So, with my Swiss army knife, I dug out about 100 Francs. Very Nice. Brought Gillian to Patrick & Marienoelle's garden, and we took a nap. Then walked through town. She mailed a couple of packages. We went to a cafe' for a beer in the afternoon, and saw a big protest that nearly turned in to a riot. Mobutu, from Zaire comes to Belgium today and there were both Pro and Con groups demonstrating. They came face to face in the square, and lots of  police showed up quickly to keep the two groups apart. Walked some more and then back to the garden for supper. Played some CWO, took a nice bath. had tea, (Marienoelle has a most interesting and authentic antique teaspoon), said thanks and goodnight. They have been very kind hosts , very nice to me. About 12 then, and we went to Bellevue for a drink. it was closed, so we went to Sheridan. A man from Sicily and his wife who owns the club, played CWO and got half drunk until 2:30 or 3 in the morning. Then back home to sleep. I must say the people in Brussels are among the friendliest I have ever seen. Today is some sort of festival in Belgium, and I think this afternoon we shall hitch to Brugge. It has been rainy this morning, and it started again just now. Hope it stops so I can dry the tent before packing it. Maybe I will go for a coffee and wait. In the pubs, a beer or a coffee costs about the same, roughly 50 cents. What a deal. very reasonable. Anyway, for now. BLF.

Brussels - 7/12/84
Thursday - 1 P.M. - Packing to leave for Brugge, but yesterday was interesting. Went to AMEX and there were 2 more letters - one Linda and one Mom-Mom. It was nice to hear a little more from home. Then strolled about. Decided to buy nice steaks and fresh veggies for dinner and treat Patrick & Marienoelle to dinner. But they were out all evening, which left us no way to cook. Went to Cafe' Sheridan, and they let us use the restaurant kitchen. It took balls to do that, but they were more than friendly, and wouldn't even let us do our own dishes afterward. Very nice. We were drinking and playing CWO when suddenly about 10 police with drawn guns etc., pulled up, blocked the door and entered in force. They checked everyone's papers and searched a lot of people. It made me very uncomfortable, even though I had done nothing and was carrying nothing. Many people bought me beers, and once again in the end I was quite drunk. Went with one guy to his apartment for one last drink, but he made us both nervous, so we left quickly and politely.  Home, up-tent and sleep and now here we are getting ready to hitch on. Until Later. BLF.

Brugge - 7/13/84
Friday 11:30 A.M. - Friday the 13th and I am now in Brugge. Yesterday we went to our second home, the Sheridan for one last drink, and to take a picture. From there, we walked 4 or 5 Klicks to the E-3 and hitched to Gent. Spent a couple of hours there, ate a big picnic lunch, saw the castle (which is the closest I have seen to a real “fairy tale” type castle) and strolled about. A lovely town and in the midst of preparing for big 10 day summer festival. Decided to hitch to Brugge and arrived about 8 in the evening. Before we could knock on a door, a man passing by on his way home from work asked us what we were looking for. He invited us to stay with him and his family after we told our tale.. They are moving to another house on Sunday, and the house is a wreck. We moved some furniture with him, and his wife cooked us a nice dinner. Talked till about midnight. Wrote a letter to Mom-Mom & packed 3 rolls of film (all I have used so far - postcards are usually better) and some pamphlets. As he works for the post office in Brussels, I sent the package with him this morning. It should cost 70-80 Fr. It was cooler today, and raining all night. I slept well. Now much else for now. BLF.

Brugge - 7/13/84
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Gent - Linda, today is Friday the 13th - Hello, I am now in Brugge, sister city to Gent. The castle you see in this picture is beautiful & the closest I have seen to a real “fairy tale” castle, complete with dungeons and moat. I didn't see any dragons though. Before leaving Brussels Wednesday, I checked AMEX again & found another letter from you & a picture of your smiling face coming back from Florida. It made me very happy. I am looking forward to the next batch in Bern. By the time you get this card I will have probably talked to you again, as I plan to call tomorrow or Sunday. It will be short, as it is hard to get enough coins for a long call, but I miss hearing your voice. I show everyone the postcard you sent & say “This is my hometown, Richmond, Virginia - where Marlboro comes from” and it is fun. My CWO dice have worn badly, so I bought a sheet of sticky plastic and cut little squares. It seems to be holding, but if it comes off, I am afraid the dice are finished. Hope everyone is OK, tell Hunter I will send him a card, but he wanted one from the wildest place and I haven't found that yet. Anyway, I love and miss you, Barry.
PS- The people in Belgique are even more friendly than Mark S. said. I can't wait to get to Holland as well. Very Nice.

Brugge - 7/13/84
Postcard Picture is 7 views of Brugge - Hello Jill, how are you? Do you like your new school? Are you still playing CWO? I am sitting in a cafe' and have just finished teaching some people, so since you taught me the game, I thought I would tell you how it has been popular everywhere. How come you don't write me, I would like to hear from you. I got a letter from Mom-Mom and she said she saw you. Also one from CJ & one from Mom. Linda sent several and said she had written you. have you been to Richmond? Do you see Alan or Kerry? I am fine, but I miss you. It is an interesting life style, but it has it's Moments. I sent film to Mom-Mom and when it's developed you should get the pictures. Some are pretty neat (or should be). The people in Belgium are very nice. Language is sometimes a problem, but I am getting very good at sign language & pantomime. Also speaking bits and pieces of French, but not so well. Tonight there is a festival and some bands playing in the town square that should be fun. If you have a chance, say hello to Norm & Claude & see how my little Honda is doing. There is so much happening that it is hard to put it on a small card, but I am keeping busy and doing well. Learning something every day. Take care of yourself and STAY OUT OF TROUBLE, Love, Barry.
PS- It is now after the concert & I am at McDonalds eating my first European Big Mac. Just thought you might like to know.
PPS- Say hello to grandmother & Grandpop, grandma Simmie, aunt Marta, CJ, Mom & Eddie, Mom-Mom, Pete, Linda, Dale, Kerry, Alan, etc. It will save me all the extra postage & give you something to do when you get bored. I will say hello to everyone here for you.

Brugge - 7/14/84
Saturday - 1:00 P.M. - Yesterday we looked around Brugge a bit. It rained on and off. Saw windmills, the oldest operating Pub in all of Europe, watched lace making and mostly just wandered around beautiful narrow winding streets. We ate a picnic lunch. I wrote cards to Jill and Linda and Joe. Went to the Cactus festival and saw a half decent band play. After a couple hours (& beers) went to McDonalds for the Big Mac I have been wanting. Came back and talked with our hosts over coffee and sandwiches. Then to bed. Rained all night and the tent got very wet. Some water now gets inside the tent when it rains, and I cant figure out where it gets in. If it continues to happen, it could be a worry, especially with rain a constant companion. Not much else for now, just getting ready for Holland. Later. BLF.

West Moore - 7/15/84
Sunday - 10:30 A.M. - waking up in a wet tent yesterday was an omen. it rained all day. My pack stayed dry thanks to the rain cover, but I didn't do nearly so well at all. We got short rides all day, and mostly went in circles, as everyone thought we would do better on a different route. We stood in the rain a lot. It was one of those glamorous days that everyone at home is probably jealous of. Finally we got a ride from Antwerpe to West Moore, a small farm town very near the border to Holland. The guy that picked us up (Fred) let us sleep on his families farm. We walked to the little local pub and when we walked in, all eyes were on us. They don't get many tourists here, but I didn't have to buy a single beer, as everyone was shouting  them for me. Got pretty drunk, walked back and ate some bread (out of cheese) and went to sleep. Woke up just before 9 and had a nice farm breakfast and good hot coffee. Today, after church, Fred will drive to his brothers in Holland, so we are just going to wait for a ride with him. I want to call home and talk to Mom, Eddie and Jill, then call Linda. Hope I can find a phone. Looks like rain again today. Not much else, later. BLF.

Amsterdam - 7/16/84
Monday - 8:00 P.M. - Rained most of yesterday. Saw a bicycle race, and that was pretty cool. Went to a pub and called home. Mom didn't know who I was. Talked to her and Eddie. Jill was in Richmond with Linda. I miss them both. Ate with the family and then got drunk at the pub. Played pool and darts and football. The problem with the tent is getting worse. I will try some seam sealer and a tarp, and that better just fix it. Today walked down highway in the rain trying to get to a rest stop for a ride. halfway there a Jamaican stopped and drove us to Amsterdam. He bought me 2 packs of Marlboro's. he owns a pub in Antwerpe and plays reggae music. Very nice. Checked into a hotel in Amsterdam. Very nice for a change. Ready to go out and see the town. not much else now. BLF.

Amsterdam - 7/17/84
Tuesday - 3:00 ?.M. - Walked to central station and got a little money, then to the Hard Rock Cafe'. I saw their sign (Come High, get higher) at the train station. We did. Just like everyone always said. They had a video of  The Stones in concert in USA. We watched for about an hour, got high on hash and got bored and left. Walked about through the red light district. The only thing that surprised me was that so many of the whores were so strikingly ugly. Also some graffiti that said “Porn is watching you”. One of my old roommates used to talk about the real live fucking shows. But, to hear the people barking to try and get you in, It's Real Live Fucking shows - not an adjective, but rather a verb. Just walked around anyway, as I can't really afford to go in. There are as many McDonalds here as any city in the USA, at least 5 of them probably more. Lots of bars, pubs, clubs, cafe's. Came back to “luxury” hotel with 7 locks on the door and slept till 9. Up for breakfast, back for a nap. Now to AMEX for travelers checks, and to camping store for seam sealer. Also bought 7 neat post cards from hard rock cafe, I am sure all of my friends will want one. I think my friend Roy, the printer in Richmond should make T-shirts of them so we can all get rich.

Amsterdam - 7/18/84
Wednesday 1:00 A.M. - walked today and saw the royal palace. Got to AMEX, the camping shop, post office for stamps, Hard Rock Cafe' for a T-shirt, etc. Did the tent seams and ate sandwiches in Dam square. Out for a walk tonight to Black and White (Rolling Stones) Bar, then to the High Noon Cafe'. They don't serve beer, so I had a milkshake. Played backgammon for awhile and bought a few grams of Zero Zero hash, and a piece of Space Cake. Mostly I lost at backgammon. Weather is nice again, and the hotel has certainly been a refreshing experience. Oh well, check out at 10, so it is now time for sleep. Later. BLF.

Sneek - 7/19/84
Thursday - 8:30 P.M. - Up to pack and shower by about 8:30 this morning. Ate breakfast and left bags at the hotel. Went to Post office and sent cards, T-shirts, etc. I can see Linda smiling when she gets them. Then to the Anne Frank house. Amazing. Then the Royal Palace, followed by a diamond factory. That was too commercial a tour, they mostly wanted to sell diamonds. (like I could afford one - ha ha). Sometimes the high tourist season is enough to make you want to take a vacation from your holiday. A bunch of hitch hikers everywhere. We decided to see north Holland as everyone says there is nothing to see north of Amsterdam. Today, I am near the top of Holland. Went over a dike that is over 36 Klicks long. Stopped and bought a card, and our ride bought us sandwiches and brought us to the campground near Sneek. He paid for us to stay there tonight. Very nice. Not much else for now. BLF.

Leeuwarden - 7/19/84
Thursday - 8:15 P.M. - Saw the small town of Grouw in Freisland today. Walked around, sent Aunt Marta a post card. Met some people in the bar at the campground who drove us to Leeuwarden. Found a nice garden and am having coffee and conversation with our new hosts. I like Holland, especially outside of Amsterdam. Not much else for now. BLF.

Leeuwarden - 7/20/84
Friday - 7:40 P.M. - Woke up and had a nice shower, & coffee & breakfast. Very nice. Planned a route through the rest of Holland. Went to a toy store, a cheese factory, the Mata Hari house and so on. We asked a man in a shop directions to the cheese factory - he left work and drove us there. We got a ride back on the 1st car to pass. Hitch hikers paradise! Walked around more and broke my new old 85 cent umbrella. Wandered back at 6 for Chinese dinner. Really good. Chinese food is the same everywhere. Very nice. Nothing else for now, hope the weather improves. BLF.
PS- Last night we were driven to the leaning tower of Leeuwarden - in the town. It leans a lot. Then along canals downtown, finally - hand made, hand dipped ice cream. Ummmmm Good!!. Finally back to write post cards and watch music videos with our hosts. Later. BLF.

Leeuwarden - 7/20/84
Postcard Picture is 9 views of Amsterdam - Hello Mom, EJ & Jill, I am no longer in Amsterdam but in the Northern province of Holland, Friez - famous for cows & cheese. There is a dike, the Afslaited dike, that connects east and west Holland. It is over 30 kilometers long & I crossed it yesterday. It was very neat. The people of Holland are probably the finest in the world. Very nice. I enjoyed talking with you the other day, but I was amused when you didn't recognize my voice. I am in really fine health, so don't worry about that, even if I did sound tired. Sometimes the days are very long and tiring. Traveling is a lot of work, believe it or not. The high tourist season is especially difficult, sometimes it is enough to make you want to take a vacation from your holiday. But it is only another month or so. I am writing tonight from a particularly nice stone soup living room in a house in Leeuwarden, where I will be staying for a night or two. In one of your letters, please tell me where the post card I got is from, as that may help me determine WHO it is from. Take care, my thoughts are with you all (especially Eddie), love, Barry.

Leeuwarden - 7/20/84
Postcard Picture is an aerial view of Grouw - Dear aunt Marta, Hello, how are you? I trust everyone there is fine. I am doing well, but the sandpaper in my pants is wearing out. This is in Friesland, the Northern province of Holland. There is a dike that connects the East & West and it is about 30 kilometers long. The weather is not very summary, but at least it is not raining now. Meeting people everywhere & they are all so friendly. My tent and other equipment are holding up very well. Please share this card everyone there, & send Grandpop home as I am not there to do so personally. Sometimes the high tourist season is enough to make me want to take a vacation from my holiday. Too many tourists everywhere. It makes traveling hard work sometimes. Anyway, take care of yourself, Love, Barry

Groningen - 7/22/84
Sunday - 8:10 P.M. - Friday night we watched Rocky III, and then went to bed after eating more Chinese food. Saturday morning breakfast, then packing and lunch. Our hosts gave us a food packet and drove us to a good place to hitch, it took just two rides to get to Groningen. Had to hitch out of town ( 2 Klicks) to a farm where we are staying. Went to a sailors bar and met some nice people. Came home after a long stroll. Slept till 11 this morning. Got up and walked around some more, met a few people. Ate a deep fried hamburger and fries. Good. All the stores are closed. No more food today, except for the two oranges we have left. Went to Devis Cafe' for a cup of coffee and played some CWO, I am reading “On the beach”. It is interesting. Heading for Arnhem tomorrow. For now, a relaxing evening on the farm with the cows and horses. Later. BLF.

Arnhem - 7/23/84
Monday 10:30 PM - Crossed the WW II “A bridge too far” bridge today. The hitching was awful. We were stacked up like flies, or airplanes waiting for clearance in Atlanta. Took a picture of 15 others hitching out of Gronigen. took till now to get here, maybe a grand total of 150 K in 10 hours. Our final ride drove us around town and over to a friends apartment, so we would have a garden to sleep in. Very Nice. Ate some Space cake and made cheese sandwiches out of it. This town seems very nice. The 1st thing I noticed was they have trolley buses, i.e. electric buses. Real neat. Tell you more tomorrow. BLF.

Arnhem - 7/25/84
Wednesday - 12:15 - Slept well Monday night, had some problems with 2 spiders in the tent. Up and to the market to buy food, back to put this in the house. Then to the Hoge Veluwe National Park. Big art museum, mostly van Gogh, free admission. Free bicycles to use as well, stationed in bike racks throughout the park. Lots of trees and sand dunes and statues. about 13,000 acres. Hitching back to town was easier than getting there. Walked about a bit. Back for dinner, cheese again. Out for an evening stroll, saw an MB-5 motorcycle like mine, made me miss home and my friends in Richmond. Decided a good alternate title for this book might be Pac-Man, maybe... maybe not. Finished “On the Beach”, played some backgammon. Cashed 2 travelers checks. Bought stamps. Invited into the house to the spare bedroom and given keys and invited to dinner tonight. Luck is on my side. Not much else, later. BLF.
Supplemental - I like the atmosphere in Holland, bicycles everywhere, shops that close 12:30 - 2:00, but they leave a dish for money and all the goods on the street. I like the people... if you go in a bar, generally you only have to buy one beer, they buy the rest. There is acceptance here. Dress as you like, say as you like, do as you like. Just do not hurt anyone else. They give addicts free heroin to keep down the crime. Some protest that this increases addiction, but it really only seems to attract addicts from all over the world so it SEEMS like an increase in addicts. Of course the addicts protest too. They want to be able to get the drugs free and take as much as they want home with them, not just get shots at the clinic. Strange. The people couldn't decide  weather to build a dike or a bridge. Ecology could be damaged by a dike, but it is also flood protection. So, in the end, they built a bridge AND a dike. Good people, good government. Some common sense. willing to work with each other and make time for anyone. Very Nice. A good life. Except in down town Amsterdam.

Arnhem - 7/25/84
Postcard Picture is 12 views of Arnhem - Hello Mom, Eddie & Jill, the weather is finally sunny & warm again. I guess the Olympics are going now, everyone asks why I am here and not there. Celebrating my 3 month travel anniversary this Saturday. My, time flies. Went bicycle riding the other day in a huge national park. There were free bikes available for anyone to use. It was nice. I am in a house in Arnhem & the people are very nice. They have invited me to dinner again tonight. (Yay). I am doing well and luck & Freddie Bennett are with me all the time. Did Mom-Mom receive the film? I have come up with an alternate title for my book. How does Pac-Man strike you? Oh well, it was just a thought. There are a lot of Pac-People all over the place now. Mostly Americans, Brits, Australians and Germans - but some from everywhere. Equipment is OK, I had to seal the seams of the tent again, as the constant rain has become a problem, but now it seems to be as good  as new. I was wondering  if you could send me a Winnebago in Bern through AMEX. It would be a bit easier than the pack and I could charge gas on the AMEX card. Thanks in advance, sure hope this is enough notice to get it here by the 10th.   If you can't find a Winnebago, a Dodge van will do for the Moment. Take care, Love, Barry.
PS- I have been wondering which accent you would like me to come home with in place of the old one. It is such a difficult decision. I would appreciate any suggestions, but I am leaning towards Swedish at the Moment.

Arnhem - 7/25/84
Postcard Picture is Stad Mata Hari of Leeuwarden - Hello CJ, I am still doing fine & thinking of you. The Netherlands are GREAT. Although I have not yet been to France, I might suggest coming here instead, by what I have seen so far. The people are the friendliest, there is so much art, many museums, transportation is easy, parks with free bicycles everywhere, etc. It is a beautiful little country. I am staying in a house in Arnhem now, with some very nice people, and they are getting ready for dinner. But, I have been carrying this card around a week already and wanted to get it off. Not much else new, except I have a plan to make a little money. Most of the toilettes here have attendants who keep things tidy, and they charge about 25 cents to use the facilities. I am going to get a rag and make a sign and hang out in a W.C. that doesn't have an attendant, make a little money, and leave. Maybe I will, anyway - just a thought I had yesterday. Take care and stay well, Barry.  PS- I bought this card at Mata Hari's house, and this is supposed to be her “authentic” signature. Wow!

Arnhem - 7/26/84
Thursday - about noon - Dinner was very good last night. We ate with Gerald & Ann, the owners of the house and Arie & Pim, the couple on the second floor. Very nice. Learned that many of the canals of Holland are being filled and converted to streets. Played CWO till 12, came up and drank a beer and tried to call Linda at 1:30, but I couldn't get to a proper phone. Bummer. Now I have finished packing and am ready for the day ahead. Not much else. BLF.

Delft - 7/27/84
Friday - 10:45 P.M. - Yesterday, I hitched to Utrecht.  Not terribly impressed. Nice town, but nothing special. Left there about 7 and hitched to Delft. Got a ride very quickly and arrived here about 8. began searching for a garden with no success. Then some people with only a concrete garden drove us around to the camp grounds. We didn't like them, and asked to please be brought back to the city. Then we found 4 big houses with very nice gardens. The 1st was a woman living alone, and she was afraid of us. The 2nd said yes, but had only a jungle, with not even one square inch for the bags or tent. #3 said absolutely not and #4 was perfect! Very friendly, beautiful garden, soft grass, hot coffee, toilette and shower privileges, and the bags could stay in the house (more room in the tent). Got settled in and pitched the tent. Ate dinner, and then walked into town. Saw the clock carillon play a 5 minute song. Very nice. Then back to get some shut eye. BLF.

Delft - 7/28/84
Saturday - time unknown - 3 months to the day. Time sure flies. I have spent a little over $850 total in the 90 odd nights so far. I have paid to sleep about 7 times. At $3 per night (very conservative campground cost) I figure I have already saved at least $250 so far. Hitching, I have saved on average an additional $7 per day, or at least another $580 total. In other words, I would be going home now, broke. Most of my money, at least 75% has gone for food and postage. My feet are tired, I can count to ten in several languages, and I am meeting all kinds of neat people. Mostly very nice. and so on...... yesterday was a bit depressing. Over breakfast, the lady we were staying with told us she was going away for the weekend, and we couldn't stay again with her gone. We looked for work most of the day, to try and get some money coming in. I could sure use some more, plus it would help break the routine of travel and give me a chance to really get to know a few people really well. Anyway, there doesn't appear to be any work here for us, not even as “tomato pluckers” - the big industry other than Delft ceramic stuff. Then, back to pick up our packs and knock on about 30 doors before we got a yes. As usual, all well that ends  well. Allan saw us knocking on doors about an hour before as he was riding his bike home. We didn't notice him. When we arrived at his door, he and his wife said sure, fed us. let us in for a shower and then we drank Heinekens and played CWO. Went to bed about 11:30. It rained all night. We got just a little moisture. Off to Den Haag, hope it warms up a bit and doesn't rain. BLF.

- Supplement - Den Haag was nice. saw horse pulled trolleys. Looked again for a phone to call home, and was again unsuccessful. Went to art museum, saw mostly Rembrandts. Rode the tram there and back and didn't have to pay. Also, bought a USA sticker flag for my pack to help with the hitching. Gillian got a New Zealand one, but I don't think anyone recognizes it. Later. BLF.

Delft - 7/28/84
Postcard Picture is a reproduction of Jan Steen “A Toothpuller” - Hello again CJ. Today is Saturday 28 July, my 3 month anniversary of travel. I saw this painting & thought I'd send you a card. The museum had mostly Rembrandt's, but a few other things as well. Very nice. Tomorrow I go to Rotterdam and from there on to the Southern Islands of Zeeland. The weather is improving, and hopefully it will be sunny next week. I am staying in Delft right now, as it is just between Den Haag & Rotterdam. I have a nice house here & it is easy to make day trips. Delft is very nice also, but much too touristy for my taste. I took a tour of the porcelain and China factory, but they really just wanted an excuse to sell the stuff. This is also the big farming area for the Netherlands, & I almost took a job as a “tomato plucker” for a couple of weeks, until I found out you earn about 5 guilders an hour (about $1.60) - even less than McCrory’s. Anyway, I have spent only $800 in 3 months, and that was through the most expensive countries in Europe, so I am still OK for now. Say hello to all, Love, Barry.

Rotterdam - 7/29/84
Sunday - Time unknown - Played CWO last night & drank Heineken. Had the CWO Olympics with Denmark, Holland, New Zealand & the USA all represented. Each country won once and the final 1000 point match - USA finished 2nd with 975 because New Zealand rolled 5 tens in a row to come from behind and win. We spent the night in the spare cottage next to Allan's house. Woke up to breakfast in bed (in the sleeping bag really, but still...) Bacon, eggs, cheese, bread, coffee, milk & O.J. Excellent. Very Nice. Called Linda and woke her up I guess. It was about 6:30, but it was then or never. She got the T-shirts. It was great to hear from and talk to her. Then, off to Rotterdam. Rides came easily.  Rode with a couple from Brussels to get there. Beautiful city, even on a Sunday. Very artsy and historic. Let's Go did not even mention the city. Went to the Eurotower, but it was too expensive to go up. Very hot today. Sat for awhile and watched the port(s) and rested. Then back. Shower, eat and sleep. Tomorrow, on to Zeeland. BLF.

Zeeland - 7/30/84
Monday - 10:00 P.M. - Beautiful nights sleep. More CWO and then bed. Up very early this morning, packed - breakfast had spoiled - so off we go. Easy rides, 1st to Rotterdam, then on to Zeeland. Rode over the biggest bridge in Europe. 5 Klicks, certainly not the biggest in the world, but nice and respectable.  Then to Vlissingen. We knocked on 3 doors, and on door #3 we found a nice guy who took us to an empty apartment he owned near the beach. It was being renovated, and had no furniture or appliances. But before we actually went, they treated us to tea and cookies. We stopped for a beer on the way to the apartment, then he dropped us by, gave us the keys and showed us in. Very nice. A hot shower & relax. Tomorrow, the beach! BLF.

Vlissingen - 7/30/84
Postcard Picture is 6 views of Rotterdam - Hello Eddie (& #2 & #3), I thought of you a lot in this city, as I remembered you saying you had been here. Wish you were here now, I would buy you a Heineken! Are #2&#3 driving you crazy yet? I will be back soon, so just try and keep them under control for awhile longer. Anyway, I am almost finished with the Netherlands, but am now in Zeeland, the southern islands near the Belgian border. I am at the beach of Vlissingen for 2-3 days of R&R. There is a heat wave here now, no rain finally. Everything is fine here, but I need massive doses of penicillin, the women here are just great! (just kidding Mom). Really, everything is fine, but I miss you all and think of you often. Sorry the card is so sloppy, but it is a little windy and I have no table. A festival starts here Thursday and I might stay for that. Then moving on to somewhere else. Keep well, I will write again soon. Barry.

Vlissingen - 8/2/84
Thursday- 1:30 P.M. - Arrived  Monday as planned. Easy hitching, very hot weather. Looked about town, went to the beach for a few hours, bought groceries and began to look around for a place to stay. Found the apartment as per my last entry. Tuesday was rain and cold. Drank Heineken and read Kane & Able, walked to town and watched a band in the evening. Wrote cards to Mom-Mom, Linda and Eddie. Wednesday was sun and sea. Down to the beach. Finished the book, built a sand castle with a real moat, and waited to watch the tide come in and destroy it all. Back for dinner and nap. Town in the evening. Rain and cold today, so it is time to head on. What good is a rainy beach. At least I am clean and well rested, but disappointed in this “beach weather”. BLF.

Tienne - 8/3/84
Friday - 10:00 A.M. - Hitched out of Holland after taking the Breskins Ferry across the small bit of water. Buried my Holland pipe at sea in a very solemn ceremony. Drove past many Poppy fields today. They are very pretty plants. Lots of short rides on secondary roads. No highway driving at all. last ride took us from Tienne, Belgium to a small village just outside the road to Namur. Found a nice house and garden about 9:50 and set up camp. Had coffee and then went to the corner pub. Saw  some of the Olympics on TV and met some nice people. Good fun. It pissed down rain for about an hour or so. Coming back I lost a lens while trying to get it in the case, but I found it right away. It is wonderful weather today and I am ready to get going again. BLF.

Namur - 8/4/84
Saturday - 11:00 A.M. - Now in Namur, sister city to the state of  Louisiana. Spent all day yesterday in Tienne. The girl from the house where we stayed gave us coffee and the drove us to town to look around. Went to a small museum built in an old prison. Saw the “Great Place” and the market, and then arranged a tour of the sugar factory. One of the best tours I have ever taken. Really cool. Just showed up, arrived and went to the Presidents office and asked the receptionist if he could perhaps arrange something for us. After several “no's”, we eventually got an invitation to return at 2:30 and we'll see. He (the president) took us personally for nearly 2 hours, explaining everything from sugar beets to marketing and sales strategy. Afterwards, on to the executive lounge for drinks from the (very) well stocked bar.. Also, free cigarette vending machines, so he told me to take a couple packs of Marlboro. Excellent. Then, hitched here, it was raining of course. Arrived about 9 and found a very nice garden. Had coffee and watched more of the Olympics. Found out that others before us have camped in this very garden, Brits  And Swiss too, so now our hosts can add USA & New Zealand to his collection. Location, Location. Sunny and nice today. Ready to go out and have a look around. BLF.

Namur - 8/5/84
Sunday - Noon - Spent the day walking yesterday. All day. 1st to Tourist Information for a city map. Then through the market and the old city. Next to the citadel, most impressive. A large hill completely fortified with numerous walls and fortresses. General George Patton won the position in WW II.  I spent at least a couple of hours here. Then walked along the river towards the youth hostel for a free shower. Watched boats going up and down the locks. Got a good hot shower. Then back to set up the tent. Got a bit lost, but finally found the way home. Then back to the youth hostel for a barbecue dinner I saw advertised for $3. Then a leisurely stroll through red light district and city centrum. Came home and ran out of all tobacco & had to walk all over town because everything seemed to be closed. Finally found a small bar and bought some Belgian ciggs. Rained all night, but weather looks good this morning. Hot coffee and breakfast now. On to Luxembourg - a country just a bit bigger than Northern Virginia, i.e. Fairfax County. Should be fun. BLF.

Ettelbruck - 8/6/84
Monday - 12 Noon - Yesterday was interesting. Played CWO with Mariejean & Hubert, and waited for the rain to stop. Finally left for Luxembourg around 3. 1st ride took us about 15 K and let us off at a fork in the road. We stood under a bridge as it was again raining and got a ride fairly quickly. Just as we were getting in the car, the police pulled in and checked our passports, and the drivers papers. No fine, we were lucky. Another 50 k to let off at a gas station across from a tall, revolving, restaurant. We ate cheese sandwiches and then went up the restaurant for a quick but spectacular view. It was raining again, and we finally got a ride with a Frenchman, who took us to the border town. Hitched to Ettelbruck and found a place with much difficulty. The garden was on a mountain. Barely got the tent up before dark. Then down the mountain to try and phone home. Heard the operator say “Luxembourg, Europe calling USA collect”, and Jill answered. It was great to hear her voice, even if only for a Moment while she refused charges. Sleeping on the mountain though, that was awful. The ground was hard and very lumpy. As well as this, I kept sliding down to the bottom of the tent and having to claw back up only to slide back down again and again. Dreamt about the  restaurant in Namur where I tried to eat lunch. I wanted a sandwich and the sign said 13 Francs per ingredient. That was OK, except they put on one piece of cheese that covered on e third of the bread, one piece of ham that covered even less, etc. etc. I refused to eat or pay for it, and there was a small argument. Anyway, it rained all night and I had bad dreams, slid up and down and basically did not sleep very much. Anyway, tonight we will sleep in  Rene's lower garden, and it should be much better. Not much else for now, except I wrote a card to Kevin as I also dreamt of him. Later. BLF.

Ettelbruck - 8/7/84
Tuesday - 10:00 A.M. - Up early this morning. Rene's wife is doing my laundry. We had a good breakfast and wrote a postcard to Jill. Hitched to Luxembourg city yesterday. Beautiful city, built up and down hills. Very colorful and full of tourists. Saw Roman Aqueducts, 1000 year old churches, casements dug out of solid rock, and more. Followed the walking tour on the map. Very Nice. Bought a whole carton of ciggs because they are so cheap, and later discussed with Rene the possibility of taking 10-15 cartons to Germany for resale. It appears to be quite easy, so I think I will invest in 15 cartons @ $6 apiece. I will then sell them in Germany (tax free) for $12 or so each for a savings to the end user of about 50% and a net profit to me of even more. That would be very nice. An extra $90 at least! It will be good to make a little money instead of JUST spending it. Bought a bottle of wine for Rene and family as they have been so very kind. Saw a statue in Luxembourg City and bought a postcard of it as I really liked it. Showed it to Rene, and it turns out to be an old student of his who designed and built it. Also, bought a “Time” magazine and it is good to see a bit of the news for a change from an American perspective again.  Saw the American embassy also. On the way home, stopped in Marches and looked around, and then to Ettelbruck for an evening stroll through town. On the way home, we stopped at a field and did high jump, long jump, triple jump - just for fun. Nice. Then back, put up the tent and then inside for a few beers and some CWO. Invited for lunch here in a few minutes, then fold tent and hang clothes to dry. Then, off to the north to see what's there. Maybe go swimming on the large lake for awhile. Not much else right now. BLF.

Ettelbruck - 8/7/84
Final Supplement - Book one - Today, 9 rides to see northern Luxembourg. Saw Diekirch, Clerveaux, Esch-Sur-Sure, Wilwerwitz, Wiltz, Liefrange and back to Ettelbruck. All the towns are very, VERY small, maybe one hour to see the whole entire town. Played mini-golf in Clerveaux. Took a bath in a big secluded lake at Liebfrange. Walked a lot. Really a beautiful day.. Since I am on the very last page of book one, a few notes about the voyage so far; 1) - I am tired of paying for bags to carry the goods I buy at the market, so I save them now and use them till they wear out. I am also tired of paying for a city map at the TI (Tourist Information), toilettes, museums, caves, tunnels, churches, etc. etc. I am tired of people making funny signs as they drive by while I hitchhike. I wish they would either stop or go on, but there is no need to thumb up, down wave, point or reply otherwise. It is most annoying. I am glad I am not a youth hostel tourist. I can't think of many worse ways to see Europe, although there have been times when they came in handy. I like all the people I have met, who have helped me so far, for these are the people that make my trip possible, and they are not only why I am here, but they are what this trip is all about. I am tired of paying different postage at every shop for postcards. I do not understand why one government will deliver a letter than comes with a foreign stamp, but not send one. I am very tired of mostly cold food. I would like to spend one or two days doing nothing with no one in fine weather, maybe even get my tan back. I can not believe it has been over 3 months since I have seen a familiar face (other than Gillian, who really qualifies as one by now). I hope I stay in touch with some of the people I have met and vice versa. I wish I had my own tape player, for when I hear familiar music it is very good. I like days like today. I made 7 hole-in-one's at mini-golf. Very Nice. I miss everyone at home, but I hope to travel at least another 7 months or more, if I can continue to stick with this budget. I hope my money holds out. I hope my feet hold out. I hope I meet someone to buy me a thick, juicy hot steak soon, and I hope the next 3 months are as fine as the last 3. I hope this all becomes a book one day that inspires someone to do something great. I hope I write that book, if I can work it all out.  Since that is the end of this notebook, see you again in book 2. BLF.

Ettelbruck - 8/7/84
Oversize postcard - Picture is an aerial shot of Esch-Sur-Sure - Hello Linda, it's me again, from Luxembourg. This is a very typical town from the North. There is a castle on the hill & it takes about 20 minutes to see the whole town. I don't think more than 1,000 people live in most of these places, the total population of the Country is only 350,000. Today has been a very good day. It could only have been better if you had been here with me. I am staying in Ettelbruck, the center of the country. It is a small town, but a good base to see the country from, as the borders are 30 km in any direction. I have a nice garden and friendly host family. They feed me! (well). Today I saw 5 towns including the one in this card. I also went swimming in a beautiful lake & played an excellent game of mini-golf. % hole in one's out of 18 holes! I saw 4 cathedrals, a castle that was damaged in the “Battle of the Bulge”, the castle in this picture, an art museum, and other varied sights. I only needed 9 rides to make the circle of the 5 towns, plus back to Ettelbruck. I made good time too. I have come across a small business opportunity that you might appreciate. I can buy Marlboro cigarettes cheaper here than you can there, or more importantly than you can else in Europe. When I leave here for Germany in a day or two, I will buy 10-15 cartons at $6 each and sell them to Germans for $12-15 each. I am always spending, it will be nice to pick up some extra money. Gasoline and alcohol are also much cheaper here, but much more difficult to transport. Anyway, it is good to smoke real cigarettes again, and it is a good opportunity. Are you still working, or on holiday and waiting for school to start? I thought of you Sunday, and wished I could be there canoeing with you, Dale & Tommy. There are flowers everywhere here, and I also wish I could pick one and give it to you today. I will see Scott now very soon & we will try to call, but don't sit at home and wait, we will call when we are sure you are there. He can explain that package. Well, it is getting dark and I must pitch the tent soon, but I have a few minutes still. I finished the first notebook for my travel journal & am starting the second. When I come home, maybe I will write a book. The title I have been considering are “Stone Soup” or “Pac-Man”, which do you prefer? Either or neither? I am also still looking forward to our trip to Canada, maybe Mexico too. I saw the Olympics on TV the other night and understood that America is winning lot's of gold. I feel out of touch sometimes, not speaking the language well, not having access to TV most of the time,  can't read the papers. Think of me and enjoy the simple pleasures of a home to go to after a long, hard day, a car to get around, a hot shower anytime, a real bed, hot food at will, etc. I find I miss many of these things, particularly on days when there is not so much glamour and excitement. Take care of yourself please, and I will see you again soon, Barry.

Ettelbruck - 8/7/84
Postcard Picture is 8 views of Esch-Sur-Sure  - Hello Pete, it's me - your old roomy writing to say hello and 42. Played mini-golf today and made 5 hole in ones out of 18 holes. Scored 31 total. My favorite goes up a steep ramp, flies about 8 feet and lands in a net like a basketball hoop. You and Gordon would love the courses here. Much better than the ones there, or even obstacle pool. I am doing well, still mostly camping and thumbing along. Going back to Germany in a day or two to try and find Scott again. If he is not there this time I will be angry with him for being a Rittenhouse. Amberg is not exactly on the way to anywhere, in fact it is out of the way, especially the 2nd time around.  I have a way to make a little money though, and you will appreciate my scheme. Cigarettes are very cheap in Luxembourg, about 6 dollars a carton. In the rest of Europe, at least $1.50 per pack or more. I am going to buy about 15 cartons before I get to the border, and then sell them along the way. Maybe it is the Alan Herman in me, but I am pretty sure I can at least double my money or better. It is the first time I wished I had an even bigger back pack. Your magnifying glass is enjoying the trip. I am still staying clean, but it is not always easy, so for now I am winning the bet. My garden host's here in Ettelbruck even did my laundry for me today, so I have clean clothes again. Very good, huh? Are you working again? Please get together with Gordon, and maybe Hunter & write me. If you like, you guys can even make a tape or something and I can find a place to play it. I miss you all and think of you often. Take care of your thumb & keep track of your towel. I know where mine is, Your Friend, Barry.

Ettelbruck - 8/7/84
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Luxembourg - Jill Foer & Family, Hello, I am in Ettelbruck, the center of Luxembourg & use it for a base to see the country as the border is only 30 km away in any direction. I called from my house here Sunday night and it was great to hear your voice when I signaled. I am doing well and have found a small business opportunity. Cigarettes are very cheap here, about one third what they cost in Germany, Belgium or France. The borders no longer check going to any of those countries from here, so I will take 10 or 15 cartons with me. Everyone within 100 kilometers or so comes here to buy them already, but further away they will be very easy to sell and I will double my money. The worst that can happen is they will get taken away, so I think it is a good risk. Anyway, Luxembourg is a beautiful country with a very interesting history. Staying with some very nice people here. Today they are doing my laundry for me. My map is getting pretty well covered and should look nice one day hanging on my wall with my route penned in. Guess you start school soon so good luck & have fun moving. Do well, and take care. Still saying hello to everyone for you, hope you do the same. Love, Barry.
PS- The statue in #3 on front was built by a student of the man I am staying with & with a little luck I will meet him this evening as they have invited him for wine & cheese when I showed them this card and mentioned that I had enjoyed the statue. Small world!
PPS- Still writing my journal every day & now on my second book. Keeping a very good record & still planning on maybe writing a book. (I hope). "

Ettelbruck - 8/8/84
Oversized postcard - picture is 6 views of Luxembourg - Morris & Lillian Cisenfeld, Bon Jour from Luxembourg, Thinking of you often, especially on Wednesday evenings around dinner time. Guess I will just get a pizza or Gino's hamburger instead. It might even be better! (just kidding - one for Eddie). Europe is very pretty this time of year, there are flowers everywhere, and many beaches, rivers, lakes & canals. I am doing fine, but the electric company has shut off the power in my tent because I am behind on the bills. No more television in bed! Eating well & healthy, miss you very much. Say hello to aunt Marta & send Grandpop over to help me chase women. Love, Barry.

Bitburger - 8/9/84
Thursday - 9:00 P.M. - Left Ettelbruck yesterday with 17 cartons of Marlboro stashed in my backpack and crossed the border at Vianden. Terrible hitching and we made only 30 K's before a terrible rain storm. The only shelter in sight anywhere was a lonely bar on this little rural two lane road, about a half Klick further up the road. So of course, that is where we went. They let us pitch the tent right behind the bar and I managed to get it up and keep it dry inside, although I did not do so well. Then into the bar to dry out and try a Bitburger Pils. American soldiers came in & I ended up very drunk indeed. We went to the base and saw a Chevy Chase video and drank even more beer. Walking back, in the rain I fell into a ditch and got covered in mud and thoroughly soaked. Cold all night long. Very hung over this morning. Ill. Went to Trier and changed Luxembourg money and bought groceries. Then got a ride on the autobahn in a Porsche with a crazy driver. Going 230+ k/hr, reading a magazine and talking on the car phone too. Still, it was fun. Arrived in Frankfurt about 6:30 and have found a nice garden with an old woman who is a Dr. of Philosophy. Coffee and a chat. Very nice. Not much else for now, never going to drink a Bitburger Pils again. BLF.

Frankfurt - 8/10/84
Friday - 8:15 P.M. - Called Claus in Neumarkt last night and they are expecting us to visit. R&R, another chance to do laundry, wash the tent and sleeping bags and of course I hope to find Scott and spend a few days with him in Amberg. Slept very well last night, it was cold and windy. Up pretty early. Took two cartons of ciggs with me to town and had no problem selling them off at 3 DM per pack. 2 cartons a day and they will all be gone in a week or so. Ate lunch at McDonalds and it is still just as bad as it is in the states. Frankfurt is a big city. Tall buildings and a huge red light district every bit as gaudy as Amsterdam. Went to the film museum, it was great. Special exhibit on holography - outstanding. Also the Post museum. Lots of walking. Got quite lost trying to find home, but I am here now. Tired, but here. Time for another Bitburger beer never has arrived. Tomorrow, on to Neumarkt and Amberg for a short rest and visit, and to sell the rest of the ciggs. Maybe then I can get some really cheap from Scott (and the US PX) and really make a killing. Later. BLF.

Neumarkt - 8/12/84
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Neumarkt - Hello Linda, I am in the town on this card, about 40 KM from Amberg. I saw Scott yesterday and it was really a trip. He was on duty at the base, in uniform etc. The package you received is gas masks, filters, etc.,... Army stuff. Scott is always the same. We talked of urban decay, melting polar ice caps, nuclear war, and basic Scott type stuff. I should see him this Friday night and Saturday when he is off duty. It was really great to see a familiar face after so long, even Scott's!! (just kidding). Anyway, concerning other matters, I crossed the border from Luxembourg with 17 CARTONS (170 packs) of cigarettes in my pack, along with all my other gear. No problems crossing, and now I have already sold all but 3 cartons at a handsome profit of about $60 to $70 dollars U.S., plus the 3 cartons I still have left. Pretty good, huh? Now I am the Marlboro Man! I will probably call you before you get this card, but if not I will call soon. My thoughts are with you always, and as always I miss you very much. I even had a dream that I was home with you last night. It was very vivid. Please take care of yourself and do well in school. Love, Barry.
PS- I read that we won over 60 gold medals and 100+ total. YAY USA*

* editors note, reference the 1984 Olympic games.

Neumarkt - 8/12/84
Postcard Picture is 7 views of Neumarkt - Mom & Eddie & Jill - Hello to all, I am well and doing fine. I saw Scott, my friend in the army today and it was really fun seeing a familiar face. I am staying in this town with a friend I met last time I was here and that's a nice rest. I have a bedroom, 3 or 4 or 5 good meals a day. They are very nice people. I am a little behind in my planned schedule, but will be in Berne in about one week to get my mail. About the cigarettes in Luxembourg - I came to Germany with 17 cartons in my pack as well as all the normal equipment I carry. The pack is indeed very large when full. Anyway, I made it OK and have now sold all but 2 and a half cartons at a tidy profit of about $70 American. Not bad for the Marlboro Man. In any case, things are going well, I am eating very well, and I washed my tent, sleeping bag and all my clothes here, so it is like starting fresh again. I will try and call or signal again soon. Stay well and say hello to everyone for me. Love, Barry.

Neumarkt - 8/13/84
Monday - 11:00 A.M. - Rained all night Saturday and well into the day. Woke up about 10 and went into the car garage. Took the tent down in the pouring rain, and hung that to dry in the garage. About one o'clock this afternoon, Dr. Ruth came home and invited us to join her for tea and lunch, and a shower. Left for Neumarkt in the rain at 2:30 or so. Walked 2 K or so to get to the autobahn and got our first, short ride in about 20 minutes. Five minutes at the service area and we got a ride with a Belgian car salesman delivering a new car to Austria. He took us to a service area about 20 Klicks from here. It was really pissing down rain. Called Claus & Rhiner, and Rhiner picked us up at the service area. Their mother and father are back now. They seem very nice. We had a quick meal and then went to the carnival that was in town for the week. Some neat rides, not many sucker games, great food and beer hall. You would have to see it to believe it. A fat, old drunk woman at the next table fell in love with me and kept hugging me and giving me kisses and talking a mile a minute in German. It was almost funny. Then to the Broadway Disco. Very hot and load and just not my idea of a great time.  After a couple hours, Claus brought us home and then he went back. Sunday we had a BIG dinner at noon. Hot meat, veggies and those things that remind me of matzoth balls. Then there was the towns yearly parade, which I expected to be very rank. It was all right. There were big wagons that gave away beer and threw candy and stuff to the kids. The parade took an hour and a half in all. Pretty neat. Then, hitched to Amberg and saw Scott Rittenhouse. He was on duty, but we spent about an hour talking at the gate. He is the same as he ever was. Maps of a nuclear devastated U.S., melting polar ice caps, marshlands falling in to the sea, urban decay, politics, etc. We had a few laughs though and it was great fun seeing him here in Germany. He is losing lots of hair, and looks very typical in uniform. He recently got an article 15 for telling a sergeant off. I warned him about that when he enlisted. Then I went off to town and bought a big spaghetti dinner for $2.50. That was good. Then walked about for awhile and went to the Rock Cafe' to wait for Claus. He arrived about 9 and we came back to Neumarkt for the fair again. Went on a ride they would never allow to operate in the states. Most of the rides there in fact, would probably never be allowed back home. The few rides I did recognize were run very differently. Here, the people jam right up next to the moving rides and watch, and crowd to get on at the next opportunity. It is a fun way to do it though. I tried the swing, where you try to rock it right over the top, but I could not quite get my timing right and wore myself out trying. Then home for a little German TV and bed. Today it finally is a little bit sunny out. Maybe some decent weather finally. Later. BLF.
PS- I am getting just a bit fed up with Gillian at times. Consider traveling alone again for awhile. It would certainly simplify things at times. I bet she gets fed up with me too sometimes. Oh well, we will just wait awhile and see.

Neumarkt - 8/14/84
Tuesday - 12 Noon - Yesterday was beautiful weather. We went to town so Gillian could buy a new pair of blue jeans. Then, we both picked up some post cards. I sent one each to Mom, Linda, Rene' in Luxembourg, and Sylvia & Graham in Newcastle. Scott called to say we could get together this weekend. Claus & I cut wood, about 3 bulldozer loads. Then a hot shower, hot dinner and off to the fair. I sold about 20 packs of ciggs in 10 minutes and watched fireworks and walked around the midway. Home for a nice discussion of politics, military history, etc. As usual, Gillian had to have the lights out and go to sleep. As usual, I wasn't tired. This is getting old fast. Not much else for now. Beautiful day today. The newspapers here say President Reagan went on the radio and claimed a nuclear war with Russia and later said it was a joke. Crazy old man? Wonder what really happened? Later. BLF.

Neumarkt - 8/15/84
Wednesday - 11:30 P.M. - Another beautiful day today, and also some sort of Christian holiday. Watched a Bruce Lee video yesterday, then sat on the patio and taught Gillian how to play Risk. She is getting better at it. We played 5 games in all, and that last one was very good. Then, we had a long discussion about our relationship and decided if it doesn't get better we will each go our separate ways. We will see what happens next. I took a truckload of wood to Claus's grandmother in the afternoon and played fetch and wrestle with Bealla, her German shepherd, just a nice relaxing day off from the voyage. Later. BLF.

Neumarkt - 8/16/84
Germany Thursday - 1:00 P.M. - Nice weather all day yesterday. Went shopping with Claus at a huge store that sells everything from cars to groceries, to home building materials. I bought a small backgammon board for 21 Dm. Back for a few games of Risk. Rained for about an hour and then supper and the fair again. Sold all the remaining cigarettes. Bought roses for Claus's mother (as she has been acting peculiar). She acted even worse last night so we have decided to leave today. She is strange and I guess “typically” German ( per my pre-conceptions). In any case, we are packed and ready to leave in a few minutes. Later. BLF.

Amberg - 8/17/84
Friday - 11:00 A.M. - One of these days I must buy a calendar so I can keep my days/dates  right all of the time. Anyway, yesterday was quite the interesting day. As I said, we packed our bags, told Claus we were leaving etc. As we thanked and say goodbye to Mrs. Austen, she went into a tirade about how she was disappointed in us both. She said we slept late and didn't work enough, and our clothes smelled and we didn't integrate with the family, and we should have known what to do without being told, and the roses we gave her from the carnival were too expensive so we must really be rich (ha ha), and that I lied because Claus told her he met me last year, not last month, and that we did not open the window every tome we used the toilette, and that we made too much noise and kept the family awake, and that we left the window open in the bathroom in the rain and that we were ruining the WHOLE HOUSE!!! Well, very nice. In answer to these charges, I can only say to myself - not guilty. In fact, I can also say - she is crazy. We didn't really buy the expensive roses, someone at the carnival had given them to US as a gift. We were guilty of recycling maybe, but so what if we had bought them for her. It still would be but a small token. In any case, we thought they would make a nice gift for her. We asked her repeatedly to show us how to use the clothes washer as we WANTED to do laundry. We in fact not only cleaned up after ourselves (meticulously), but much of their mess too. We always try and help out our host a bit. In fact, I asked each morning and evening if there were any work that we could do. All they ever came up with was chopping wood, so Claus and I chopped wood. All of it. Almost 2 tons of it in fact, by Claus's estimate. And we took a whole truck load of it to her mothers and stacked it up for her. She told us to sleep as late as we like, and this was our vacation from our holiday, so we did sleep till 11 or so. They got up at 8 every morning and watched TV. So I guess we too should have set the alarm for 8 so we could get up and watch re-run American movies dubbed in German.. She opened the basement window and insisted we keep it open unless it got too cold, so we did not shut it in the rain. No water came in anyway, it was just cracked open a bit.. I would have known, as I slept more or less directly under it and would have gotten wet  In fact, I thought we got along well with everyone there and I really can not guess what other work might have needed doing, and if there were anything, she need only have asked and it would have been done cheerfully, but she says we should have known without being told. As to keeping them awake, they were up every night even after me. In fact, we even asked to be taken home a few times as they were out all night and we got tired. And while at home, Claus would be staring another video long after Gillian went to bed, and again after I was worn out. I know for a fact I was not in Europe last year as I am quite sure I was living in Richmond at the time, nor did I tell Claus that I was. Basically, she is full of shit. I was quite proud of the way I handled it though. I did not lose my temper, or refute her charges, I simply stated how sorry I was she felt that way. I thanked her again for her hospitality, and asked if there were anything at all we could do for her before we left. I also asked if anything had been damaged by the rain that we should be responsible for. Meanwhile, poor Claus was very upset and he tried to tell her she was wrong, but we stopped him. He drove us to the road towards Amberg, and apologized over and over. It wasn't his fault, and in fact I felt very bad for him. I am sure he felt terrible. He said we should try and meet him and Rhiner at the fair Saturday night. In any case, the whole episode was rather amusing and enlightening, and I am proud of the way I handled it, as I am certain that anything else I could have said would have been wrong. One final note, as we left she accused us of running away when we should be staying and trying to work harder. Again, I think she is crazy, but it is her home, so we must says thanks and move on. Now. So, we came to Amberg and found Scott, and then we walked about 500 feet from the base to the first house across the street with a nice garden. Scott kept telling us it would be impossible to use our Stone Soup plan here, but that 1st house said of course, no problem. How long would you like to stay? Here are the house keys, feel free to use the bathrooms and breakfast is served at 9:30 sharp. When we came back out of the house, his jaw just dropped all the way to his knees., he was stunned. He has been stationed here 16 months, and not yet met a single native on any kind of social basis. I was quite happy, as now I have a witness to the effectiveness of my method and he can back me up some day when we both get back home. Great. Very nice. We walked to town and Scott took us to his favorite restaurant, which turned out to be the place Gillian and I picked the other night. I had lamb with potatoes and a salad and Gillian had pork. Scott ordered the Cannelloni. It was excellent again. Thank you Scott. Then we went to a nice cafe' and I bought him a drink, even though he insisted on just drinking coffee. I had a Vitson, Gillian a vodka. We all chatted until about midnight and then came back to the base as he had to be up at 5:30. It was quite a nice evening. Slept well even though it got very cold last night. Breakfast and coffee this morning. Then I helped our host put some fence posts in the ground. he is a most pleasant gentleman, and his family is very nice too. Now, we are off to explore more of Amberg. Later. BLF. then I helped our host put some fence posts in the ground. He is a most pleasant gentleman.

Amberg - 8/17/84
Postcard Picture is 8 views of Amberg - Hello Linda, I am in Amberg, sitting in a Stone Soup garden with Scott! Last night he took me out to dinner & we are having a great time. I played Putt Putt again today, and did very well. I also found 2 poisonous snakes by accident and almost stepped on them. It nearly gave me a heart attack, especially after I found out they can be deadly. I am going to Nuremberg tomorrow with Scott, and then heading to Bern for my mail. Hope everything is going well there and as always I miss you very much & think of you all the time. Right now I am going to let you talk to Scott for the rest of this card... so now, here is S. E. Rittenhouse. Amaze, Amaze, I really can't believe it! He finally got here. I was  on duty and was thinking, as I often had, “why hadn’t he showed up”, when I received a very surprising but moral lifting phone call from the front gate. I gave Barry a good meal at my favorite restaurant and took him to my favorite pub where I had cafe' and he had Weitzen. I leave Germany December 15 and will fly to Oregon via Saint Louis for x-mas. I then go to California to see my cousins, and then back to you in Virginia. Then I will be poor. I will be in the field a lot (as usual), so the time should pass quickly. Tomorrow I will take Barry to Nuremberg and show him the sights. Barry says to tell you to BELIEVE stone soup, even in hostile Amberg. I saw it work on the first try. I couldn't believe it. Bye, lots of happiness, Scott.     PS- Take care of yourself and do well in school so we can go to Canada when I return and save some more money up. It is really wild being here with Scott, and he DID see stone soup work , even though he said it would never work HERE. He was here, and now must believe. Say hello to all, I miss you very much. Barry.

Exact Location Unknown - 8/18/84
Saturday - 9:00 P.M. - Yesterday we had breakfast with Eric & his family and then helped him sink some fence posts for a shed he is building. Then we cleaned ourselves up a little and walked all the way around the wall of the city. Saw 2 bright yellow snakes, which we later found out are a very rare and dangerous type. Walked around the perimeter of the army base and looked at the tanks protecting My interests. Went up to the church on the hill for a look around and played mini-golf. We were crossing a street in town and helped cause a car accident. What happened was, a man making a right turn yielded the right of way to us as we were in the cross walk. A truck then hit him from behind a Moment later. We did look before crossing. I only think it was Indirectly our fault. We asked if either was hurt or needed a witness. Very nice. Then I bought postcards for Gordon and Linda at the train station. Gillian is under a London doctors care for some sort of female problem and needed to get a follow up test of some sort performed. And so I went with her to the hospital, but they wouldn't get her test results from London. The hospital was again “typically” German and regimented, by my book. We walked in the front door to the reception area, and after waiting half an hour, were told we MUST go back outside the building and walk around to the entrance on the opposite side. We were not surprised, as the man just in front of us in line was slowly bleeding to death from a serious looking gash across his arm. They told him to go back outside and around too. And it is about 90 degrees Fahrenheit out there today. Anyway, then back home. Helped Eric some more, then ate a huge dinner with them. Met Scott at 7 and took him home to meet our hosts. We ended up drinking a beer and some home-made wine & schnapps all night. I gave Eric a carton of ciggs as I bought 5 from Scott. These are very nice hosts. We had fun, and they invited us to visit Scott anytime. It was the first house Scott had been in the whole time he has been in Germany. Both of us were very hung over in the morning. He just found out 3 or 4 hours earlier than I did. Very nice. Scott's friend George drove us all to Nuremberg this morning and we went to the Zeppelin field where Hitler had many rallies. I posed for a picture on the elevated podium with Scott. Then everyone but Scott went in a peddle boat. He wouldn’t go because it was too bourgeois. Then downtown to a castle. Then to McDonalds for a coke. They drove us out of town to Autobahn 6 and now we are on our way to Berne (for mail call). We are in a tiny village just off the autobahn. There is a total of 6 houses and lots of farmland. Tomorrow, we should make Stuttgart and Switzerland. Not much else for now. BLF.

Berne - 8/19/84
Sunday - 7:30 P.M. - Up at 9 this morning and on the road by 10:30. Weather very hot, but it is much better than rain. Four or five rides got us out of Germany and into Berne, Switzerland by 6:15 or so. We just finished eating and setting up camp. Changed 100 Dm for 80 Swiss Franc. (note: Dm=2.8 per U.S. dollar now). I cant believe I am back in Switzerland after so many years. Much is as I remembered , but it is all from a different point of view, as I am traveling differently now. One thing I want to do in Zurich is eat at the Guild House again!! Not much else to say about today as it was spent mostly driving, but I do have a thing or two to add about our visit with Scott. He was quite funny talking to the Germans. He spoke a little  German, but when we would talk and someone did not understand what we were saying - he would interpret by repeating what we said - ALSO in English - - as though they would surely understand him. It was quite funny. Also, he did not part with one dime other than the dinner he treated us to. George was much more generous. I guess I have gotten spoiled and pampered. Also, he said he will not go back to visit our host Eric in Amberg ever again. I do not understand that. Sometimes he can be very foolish and stubborn. But, he is my friend anyway, and it was very good seeing a familiar face. Someone who Knows me. Someone I did not just meet yesterday, or the day before. Anyway, it was very fun. Now we are entirely on our own again, with new vistas and frontiers ahead. Tomorrow, mail pick up. Hooray! Later. BLF.

Berne - 8/20/84
Monday - 5:00 P.M. - This will be a long entry, and I have just finished 5 post cards, so excuse me if I jump sequence a bit. I will try and go in order. Last night, we walked into town after dinner, to see the bears of Berne, etc. Stopped to ask directions and had a Good Smoke with some nice young people in a park. A very special surprise and treat for me. Then, we found the scenic overlook by the river where Gary took so long to take a picture when we were here years ago. We found the bear pit but they were already inside asleep. Love the fountains, paintings, shops and covered walks. Went to the market square with all the pubs. Watched a game or two of chess on a huge sidewalk chess board. Also a sidewalk variation of 4th level Tic-tac-toe. Went by AMEX about 10:30 and thus knew where to go this morning. Went to the train station and bought a Sprite. Then home to bed ( with our new hosts - we are staying INSIDE this time. Very nice.) Up about 9 this morning. Got mail and travelers checks. (had to fight with them as usual. They are not a bank. They are not a credit card company. They are not a travel company either. This is because they need to be able to wiggle out of every possible obligation to honor their products and services. At least I think so. Anyway, then went to the public baths for a nice shower. Saw some beautiful chalk drawings on the sidewalk and even took a picture of one. G. H. bought a Swiss army knife for her dad, and I had mine cleaned and oiled and got a new toothpick for it. They didn't charge me anything either! I just can't say how nice I feel to be out of Germany and into such a wonderful country. I love Switzerland. Then to the bear pits for a picture for Mom. (long story from last trip.) The bears were so cute I ended up with 5 pictures and could have shot a whole roll. Then we went to an Intersport to look for some new tent stakes. We didn't get any, but went for the most fun elevator ride ever. It is like a man lift you might see in a valet type parking garage, only there are boxed “elevator compartments” that just go around and around continuously. You can even ride over the top or under the bottom. Very clever. They also have electric buses here, and in fact, many creative gadgets. The town clock has figures that move and another clock that shows the movement of the heavens, so that every day is a year. Ended up at the PTT (Post, Telephone & Telegraph) to call home to Linda and Mom, but by then it was too late. Bought stamps and 5 postcards and will try and call again soon. Went to Burger King for lunch, and it was real neat. Not only did the burger taste great, but the place was decorated neat. There was a Ford from the 1950's crashed though the wall. It was painted blue, with red and white stripes. Also a painting of Burger King door with the Statue of Liberty, backed turned to your perspective, also walking into the restaurant. Also, my all time favorite Haunted House, 3 level, pinball machine. There is more, but al in all I think I can say a country that can avoid war for 700 plus years, where everyone speaks good English, with no litter or dirt, pure blue rivers and lakes, affluent life style and honest, respectable, friendly people is Switzerland. It is a pure pleasure to be here. Now, in the news from the mail, Grandmother wrote and told me to write to Cindy Scwecky, even sent the address. Mom-Mom got the film I sent and saw the pictures. CJ, Jill, Grandmother, Aunt Marta, Grandpop, Mom & Eddie have also seen and apparently enjoyed them. CJ had a letter published in the ADA Journal. Very good CJ! Jill has moved from Longwood to George Mason. Mom has sold and bought a car. Nothing much from Eddie except his best. Linda was mugged by a bum in the park and hurt a little. I am not happy with this and wish I had been there with her. Pete even wrote a group letter with Jill & Linda. My package to Joe arrived safely. All is well. There is other news, but nothing else major, except that CJ will try and meet me in Paris sometime in October. That would sure be great. Not much else. BLF.

Berne - 8/20/84
Monday - 9:30 P.M. - Supplemental - I forgot to mention the neatest Putt Putt I have ever seen. Rows of holes spread out, but each  “hole” is a complete 18 hole course. It has a round Gatling Gun” barrel that rotates to make a new obstacle or hole. Really neat. Possibility for home or backyard or pub marketing in the states. Also, new home on the outskirts of the city. Nice people. Just had a hot shower and feel great. Later. BLF. PS- we are sleeping inside, not in the tent. Very nice.

Bern - 8/20/84
Postcard Picture is 5 views of Bern - Hello Jill, still eating Geneva cookies? I was glad to get a letter from you, it was the first one I opened up. Sorry I missed your letter in Brussels. I am doing well and the soup is on the boil. Very happy for you at your new house and school. Hope you do well, but remember it helps if you go to class occasionally. Still having a good time here, but I miss Linda and everyone very much. Sold lot's of cigarettes, and then got Scott to buy me more at the PX on the army base. I made a killing, you would have been proud. Write me at the same address in Bern, Switzerland as I will be passing through on the way back from Yugoslavia & Austria around 15 September. Write on the envelope “hold until 31 October” just in case I am late. Also, you forgot to address this letter to Bern & Switzerland, as well as AMEX. This should all be on the envelope for speedy delivery, as it is a big world. No need to worry though, it arrived somehow. I think of you very often. Did you see the T-shirts I sent Linda from Amsterdam? I took 5 pictures of the bears of Bern today, so Eddie is off the hook at last. Mom should be happy now. Do well in school and don't be afraid to work at it. It can't be worse than Photomat! Take care, Love, Barry.

Bern - 8/20/84
Postcard Picture is 2 bears hugging - Hello Linda, how are you? Is your French good enough to understand this card? I just got my mail today, and it is so good to hear from everyone, especially you. Sorry about the bum in the park, I wish had been there to help. I was going to call you before you went to work today, but it was already 7 your time, by the time I found a PTT.  As of now, you should have received a card from Scott & I, unless he has forgotten to mail it. We had lots of fun together, except he wouldn't ride in the boat with me and his friend in Nuremberg because it was too bourgeois. Still the same. Also he spoke half decent German, enough to impress me. This darn pen is not working well. Running a bit behind schedule, so from here to Yugoslavia and Austria, then back to see Switzerland properly. So, you may address future correspondence to Bern for pickup around 20 September, but tell them to hold until 20 October just in case. I should be there by September 31st or earlier. I have read & reread your letters all morning. Glad you are doing well in school and having fun. Jill said in her letter that she enjoyed her visit & Mr. C and Joan. The bears in this pit are really neat.  The town was named after bears in the 1100's and has had the pit since the 1200's. Sorry Scott & I didn't call, but it was impossible. I did get a picture of us, and another of us on the podium where Hitler had many rallies. I am out of room to squeeze more on this card, remember my thoughts are with you always. Take care and be happy. I will see you soon, love, Barry.

Bern - 8/20/84
Postcard Picture is “The Story of the Bear - Pit in Berne - Hello Mom & Eddie, Good news - I took 5 pictures of the adorable bears of Bern. You are now set with a lifetime supply and Eddie and Gary are off the hook! It is great being back in Switzerland, I never thought I would be here again before I started this trip. Got my mail today from you, grandmother, Mom, CJ, Jill, Pete & Linda. Mail call always makes for an extra special day. Don't forget to tell grandmother I received her letter, she seemed worried that it wouldn't reach me, & tell her I will try and write Cindy, thanks for the address. Switzerland is even better this time around, especially after the arrogant Germans. These are such nice people. I took my army knife to a shop and they cleaned and oiled it, as well as replacing the lost toothpick for free. The gardens are all in bloom, the water is even more blue and the weather is perfect. Glad you sold your car and got a good deal. You forgot to mention what type you bought though. Glad you sent the copy of CJ's article, he mentioned it and I got a laugh as he said he was sure the news was all over Europe. I am doing well and healthy as long as Reagan does not bomb Russia. From here to Austria & Yugoslavia as I am running late, and then back for Switzerland proper. Therefore, send mail to Bern again. Expect to be back September 15 or so. Hold till October 15 on envelope just in case. From there to France in October, perfect to meet CJ. I will write him. Write me in Bern again, Love, Barry
PS- How is “life in the jungle”?

Bern - 8/20/84
Postcard Picture is 6 views of Bern - Hello CJ, got your letter today as I am running a bit behind. Mom sent a copy of your letter, and yes it is all the rage in Europe. You are on everyone’s lips, as you will soon see. Would be perfect to meet in Paris (or anywhere in France) in early to mid October. Will call you, but as my plans stand, that is about where I will be anyway.  Start your arrangements and I will adjust to your plans, no problem. I will be back in Bern for mail around 15 September. Same address, but write on envelope “hold until 31 October” just in case. Hopefully, we will be together in France by then. Glad you saw the pictures, but they are mostly boring I guess. Postcards mostly of places, most of the pictures are people I've met along the way. As always, thinking of you, Take care. I will call soon, Love, Barry.
PS- Don't forget to apply for a passport immediately if you have not already done so. It helps you get off the airplane.
PPS - Hope Reagan does not bomb Russia in 5 minutes. I am a little too far over here to be comfortable with that & Europe for the most part is shocked that he could even joke like that! Vote Democratic.

Exact Location Unknown - 8/21/84
Tuesday - 8:00 P.M. - Played CWO and Yahtzee last night till midnight. Then, up to bed. Read Robert Heinlein “The Number of the Beast” for awhile, then drifted off to sleep. Up before 9. Played Gillian a game of 4 level Tic-tac-toe on a home made board. Read, showered, shaved and packed. Ate lunch with the Family, thanked them and left. It was very, very hot. Just above 36 degrees Celsius, or over 100 Fahrenheit I think. Got a good ride, only one all day. Went over the Alps and are now in a small village less than 50 K from Lugano. Tomorrow, East to Yugoslavia. Our ride stopped in Interlaken for some business. We had a chance to look around a bit, and bought rockets and fire crackers. Then he took us  about 200 Klicks out of his way, bought us drinks and took us to this Italian speaking village, to stay with some friends of his. Not much else, I am in the house and it is impolite to just sit here and write. Alps are magnificent though. We drove through and above the clouds. And, one last detail, Our hosts here speak no English. Yet they have an American flag, a small one, displayed right on the table in the entry by the front door. Later. BLF. PS- Saw 2 or 3 glaciers and lots of snow while we were up high. Very magnificent. Also, several damns for hydroelectric-electric power - over 4,000 - 5,000 feet up in the mountains. But some of the mountain roads went as high as 12,000 feet or so. BLF.

Bidio - 8/22/84
Wednesday - 10:30 A.M. - After being invited to eat dinner here last night, we walked in to the Village of Bidio for a look see. It takes maybe five minutes from end to end, but is quite nice none the less. Surrounded entirely by mountains, it has real small town charm. The local fair is in town for ten days and consists entirely of; 1) bumper cars, 2) Kiddy helicopters, 3) shooting gallery and 4) punching bad to test your skill and strength. All in all, it would just about fit in my tent! But the people flock to the lights. Then, GH and I set off all our fireworks and were disappointed in them as 2 out of 3 were duds. The best were the lady fingers. We just lit strings of 100 at a time, and in the end a string of 500. That was half decent, but short. Then, back home, I to read out on the front porch and GH to sleep. Talked (or at least tried) with our hosts and they with me. Somewhat successful as some information got through both ways. But a lot more was misunderstood or just dropped. Having breakfast now, and hot coffee. Hope to make the frontier to Yugoslavia today, so after clean up and pack - time to go. BLF.

Trieste - 8/23/84
Thursday - 9:30 A.M. - What a day yesterday turned out to be! 1st ride with Susan, a nice girl from Lugano who says we may stay with her when and if we return there. Then, to the border, a short lift. 170 Swiss Francs for 114,000 Italian lire. Whew, I feel rich now. Then a long ride almost to Venice. Then, the next ride just short of Trieste. One last ride and we are here, just barely before dark. Found a house with a garden and got permission for the tent. About an hour later, another man arrived and told us we had to leave and he called the police. A real son of a b*#&@!! It was after 10 when we left, so we used emergency plan B - Oslo theory. We went for dinner and had some good pizza. 3 American law students at the next table. The whole conversation was buzz words and lacked content entirely. They clearly would not be useful to us. Then walked around meeting people and looking for a place to sleep. About 12:30 at an ice cream shop, we met some people who took us to a private yacht club where we slept by the beautiful sea. Up this morning early and took a swim in the warm clear water. Nice, until they hollered out a warning to me about sharks. I got back to the dock very quickly. Later. BLF.

Thursday - 11:00 A.M.
Supplemental - I forgot to include several observations so here we go. We passed the castle yesterday of Romeo and Juliet's families near Milan. They are just next to each other on a hill. Also, about 20 Klicks away is Juliet's grave. Italia is neat. No motorcycle helmet laws here. The highways are worse than the New Jersey turnpike, there are tolls every 30 Klicks or less. The drivers are crazy, as everyone has said, but they seem to be safe. The pizza was cheap, 2500 L each, which works out to roughly $1.50 American. The garden we were removed from, the man kept insisting there was nobody else there and that we hadn't gotten his permission. He had a fence about 10 feet high all the way around which would be difficult ( at best) to climb, especially with full gear. Finally, while the police were still taking all of our statements, the other man came outside and backed us up. But, #1 man still wanted us out of there, so we continued to pack and leave. After this mornings earlier entry, we got a ride in the city with 2 ladies and I am in the house of one of them now. As they lived in New Zealand for 20 years, they were partial to Gillian. We will stay here for lunch, then she will drop us right at the border and we go to Yugoslavia.

Exact Location Unknown - 8/24/84
Friday - Time unknown - Hello from Yugoslavia. Anna & Bob, the Italians from Trieste were very nice. We had a huge lunch and good conversation. We have been invited to come back and visit them. About 4 they drove us to the border and we got visas and entered. I bought a bottle of wine, plus some brad and cheese for about $1.50 American. Ciggs cost 20 cents per pack (but they are awful). Chocolate is non-existent here, a few and only a few people speak English. I can't yet decide what to think of Yugoslavia, so far. Nice, Very nice I suppose. Certainly cheap. But, we will see. Hitching doesn't seem to be very good and trains seem attractive as a ticket anywhere is no more than one to three dollars or so. I think. Again, we will soon see. We ended up getting maybe 3-4 k from the border in a tiny village of about 150 people. Asked at 5 or 6 houses and got a yes, a garden to use and some enthusiastic conversation. Taught the girl to play backgammon. Shared our wine with some locals and got all the information I have so far on travel and life in Yugoslavia. Slept well really, but with all of both of our equipment IN the tent it was interesting. No chances taken leaving it outside. Not much else for now. Later. BLF.

Postojna - 8/25/84
Saturday - 10:15 P.M. - We had a miserable day today. Started to leave this morning and Vina invited us to her house for breakfast. Served ice cold coffee and a pan full of  eggs with 3 forks. Tried to shave but there was no water available in the sink. Thanked her, and after breakfast we left her house and less than one minute later it began pouring (cats and dogs) rain. We ran for shelter in an alcove by a door and played backgammon and read for 2 and a half hours. Then decided to walk to town and buy groceries and look into taking the train to Postojna to see the caves. Arrived and waited in the train station as it was pouring again. Finally decided on a hotel, but alas - they were all filled. Lucked in at the Solar Ski Resort, as they had  a late cancellation. Nice place, relaxed but 1984 ish (Orwell, and all that) There is a speaker on the wall in the room that you can not control. It gave news till 10 last night, then started up again all by itself at 6:15 this morning. I wonder if it listens as well? Anyway, it is check out now, and we go to explore the caves. BLF.

Ljubljana - 8/26/84
Sunday - 9:30 A.M. - Went to see the caves yesterday after checkout, but as usual there were crowds and the admission price was double what had been advertised and so we didn't go in. Got our bags from the hotel, walked a couple Klicks to the main road and hitched in the rain for 2 hours. Soldiers were marching by the whole time, apparently going home on leave. We decided to take the train again. When the ticket taker came by later on the train, he charged us more for our tickets as it was an “express” train. We have become quite cautious with our money as almost every time we spend any we are over charged and under changed. We have caught people nearly every time we spent a dinar. Anyway, arrived about 3 and went to big hotel to leave our bags. Bought pizza for lunch. Went to TIC (Tourist Information Center) and they told us hotel Bellevue was the cheapest in town at $19.20 for a double. Not bad, with breakfast. Shitty though, it turned out to be. Breakfast that is, not the hotel. Checked in. They take AMEX. hooray Then went back and got our gear from the other hotel. Still raining. Went to our room and took a nap and then finished the Heinlein book. I was dissapointed with the end of the book. Then, we went out for a nice dinner. Started with the fish soup, then salad and mixed grill. Rather dissapointed in the lot. The soup was very boney, ergo difficult to eat. They forgot to bring the salad. The meat was very tough, almost like leather. And the garnish was one raw onion slice. Also, when someone leaves something (like bread) on a table, the waitress just moves whatever is left to the next persons table. Yuck! Not Very nice. I would hate to see what goes on in the kitchen. As usual, they overcharged us about 80 dinars, apologized and corrected it. Charged to AMEX and then home in the rain. Head for Sarajevo today. First look at the old city and castle. Later. BLF.

Zagreb - 8/26/84
Sunday - Evening Supplement - Hot today. Hitch hiked all day today and got to Zagreb, not even half way to Sarajevo. Mailed a post card to Mom. Played some backgammon. Beautiful countryside. At 6:30 arrived and decided to try and find a garden again. This time, it took only 10 minutes and 2 tries. We are here at a very nice doctors house. Bought two huge peaches, 450 grams, for 50 dinars, or about 30 cents. Also ate big hot dogs for lunch, each cost 35 dinars. All in all, a disappointing day. 6 hours, 135 Klicks. Not even 25 K/HR. Not much else. BLF.

Ljubljana - 8/26/84
Postcard Picture is 3 views of Postojna - Hello Mom & Eddie, how is everything there? I am in Ljubljana now and hoping this card will arrive to you. I am not sure of anything in Yugoslavia. It is a nice country but telephone & postage are high, most everything else is cheap. I charged a hotel room and 2 dinners. Total about 1,900 dinars or about $12-13 American dollars. In fact, I just checked the receipts and it should not be more than 1938 ND, and the exchange rate is 1 to 154. Dinner was good. Fish soup, salad and mixed grill, plus a drink, for under $4. But check the receipt against the bill as they tend to overcharge and under change very often here. It is a beautiful country, with 6 languages, none of which I can recognize even one word in. Five distinct regions and seven different peoples. A very old and interesting history. Stone soup does not cook so well here for obvious reasons, but it is not too expensive anyway. Two more days and it will be 4 months! Is Jill doing well at school? Hope CJ is still planning to come over. Tell him to make his plans and I will meet him. Going to call, but not from here. Everything is fine, take care & say hello to all. Barry.
PS - I really miss the Sunday newspaper.

Sarajevo - 8/28/84
Tuesday - 12 Noon - Tried hitching all day yesterday. We ended up taking the 9:30 overnight train from Zagreb. These people can really get on your nerves. The train ride was uncomfortable as hell. 8 people in a small cabin, but plenty of others stood in the passageways the whole time. The toilette was a hole in the floor with foot prints outlined around it. It was filthy. I guess no one else could hit the hole. In Sarajevo now. Arrived about 6 this morning and came to the public camp ground. It is very shitty, but it is also very cheap. Not much else for now. BLF. PS- Our host, the Dr. in Zagreb made us 2 new tent stakes in his garage. Yay!. BLF.

Sarajevo - 8/28/84
Tuesday - 9:00 P.M. Evening supplement - This is a nice town in spite of the lousy camp ground with the squat holes to shit in and the cold water only showers. The people are nicer and it is inexpensive. The Olympic hangover is everywhere. The town is surrounded by mountains. Old town and center are east, and suburbs sprawl west through the valley. North and South are rather null and void. The language barrier is pretty serious. Spent about 2 hours walking the narrow old market streets and haggling with the craftsmen. Bought a handmade water pipe of wood and bone for $4 American dollars cash. They love American dollars cash. Glad I still have a few. Also bought some bracelets Jill, Linda and Gillian and one extra as part of the bargain. $3.50 American. GH bought a tea kettle but wanted me to do the bargaining. Every time, she would interrupt and blow the deal. But finally got her to keep quiet and got a really nice set for $10. Also bought a blue fisherman’s hat for myself for a couple bucks. Walked about some more and bought a spicy Turkish kabob for dinner. Huge, filling and about 75 cents.  Tried to call Linda, but it was a 3 hour wait for a phone line to the states. Wanted to mail my packages, but only a resident of Yugoslavia may mail packages out of the country. Went to the train station to get times and tickets for a train to Dubrovnik tomorrow, but we must go 800 K out of the way to get there by train, so we head for Kardeljevo instead. Hope to spend a day on the beach there and then get either a private or a fishing boat to Italy. The trams are fun here, there are very few cars on the road and the trams are always packed full. They cost about a dime a ride, and run on basically an honor system. But we were spot checked today by an inspector looking for tickets. Fortunately for us, this was one time we had them! Whew. Bought post cards and stamps.  Walked across the bridge that started WW I. Just pitched the tent, so I guess I will go ahead and write those next. Our tent and campground are in the valley under the Olympic ski jump. We walked up there and looked down. Amazing. Later. BLF.  Oh, one more thing. Bought 4 liters of Milch (Milk) at the supermarket. The expiration date was 101684. By chance I was thirsty so I opened one right there. It was bad. Very bad. I took it back and suggested they refund my money. They kept showing me the expiration date. I kept showing them the smell. They took it back, still pointing to the printed date over a month in the future. Then they put it back on the shelf. Very nice. BLF.

Sarajevo - 8/28/84
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Sarajevo - Dear Mom & Eddie, 4 months today! Hello again from beautiful Yugoslavia. Tried to Call but it takes about 3 hours for a line to the states, or to find a real toilette. Guess which line I chose. Grandpop is right, good plumbing is hard to find. Warn CJ. It is also difficult to get stamps for the states here. I went to 3 PTT offices. I am going from the coast across the Adriatic to Italy and then north to Austria, so anything I mail may, or may not arrive from Italy. I will write from Austria right away, just in case. Did some bargaining in the market and bought a blue Greek fisherman’s hat like my old one. Spent 2 American dollars. They all love American dollars. Also bought Jill and Linda handmade copper bracelets. They cost about 90 cents each when I was done. You would have been proud. Maybe I should go in to the import-export business. Dollar is really strong now. If I had more money, I would buy English pounds (all I could get) and then buy back dollars in November after the election, when they go back down. It is almost an even one for one trade right now! Just a thought. Anyway, the strong dollar is helping me now. Say hello to all, tell CJ I want to see him in France in October, and say hello to Jill. Look out for the jungle.  Love, Barry.

Sarajevo - 8/28/84
Postcard Picture is 8 views of Sarajevo - Dear Linda, 4 months today! Hello it's me, and I am here in Sarajevo. Remember the winter Olympics? Sorry I haven't called or written, but you would not believe the red tape here. 3 hours or more to make a phone call, and it's nearly impossible to get stamps for the U.S. I also bought some gifts for you. A bracelet for you, one for Jill and one for the favorite person of your choice. But, I have to mail the stuff from Austria, as if you are not a resident of Yugoslavia, you can not send parcels to the U.S. I miss you. Where was your deadly rail road spike when you were attacked? I will write Mikey from a more pleasant place, sorry to hear he is now a squid, but I hope it works out for him. I am also sending a handmade water pipe from Turkey. It is very Pretty. It is cold here at night, and gets dark very early. Stone soup doesn't boil, hitch hiking is impossible here too, but it is not illegal to try anyway. Trains, alcohol, food and cigarettes are cheaper than dirt. Cheaper still if you spend American cash for anything. Language is a big problem here, very big. But, this is all part of the “gypsy” experiment, and I guess all these hassles are part of the experience. I will definitely write again soon, but will pass through Italy on the way to Austria.  I have heard that anything mailed from Italy has at least a fifty percent chance of actually getting delivered, so we will see, but anything I mail from there may or may not reach you. Hope all is going well. Did you Ace industrial psyche? I miss you and want to pitch my tent in your garden. Love, Barry.
PS - Still playing CWO, but also backgammon now that I have a board.

Exact Location Unknown - 8/30/84
Thursday - 11:30 A.M. - Took the train from Sarajevo to the small coastal town of Kadalejevo. It took from 1:30 to 6:00 and when we arrived it was raining. Nothing in that pissant town but rocks, hills of rocks, water, filth and crummy apartments. And one very expensive hotel. No trains or buses leaving till morning. Bought a bottle of wine for GH, and a bottle of Schnapps for me. Met Duncan, a boy from Scotland and played CWO and backgammon. And drank. We all slept on the train platform and tried to stay out of the wind and rain as much as possible. Wednesday, we took the train to Ljubljana We pulled out of the station at 8:45 A.M. and did not arrive until 11:45 P.M. Then got on another train to Jesenice, the border town to Austria. All the boats to Italy were very expensive and only sail from towns further up or down the coast, so we go straight to Austria for now. I was hung over, and the damn dirty train goes slowly all day. I read James Michener’s book, “The Source”. It is very good. I had an accident getting off the train. My pack caught the door frame, and I hung suspended from it like I was in a parachute harness. It ripped the seam of the side of the bag. We arrived in this town about one this morning. Found a  nice hotel for cheap and went straight to sleep to finally rid myself of this terrible hangover. Today we will leave this country for civilization. Hooray. BLF.

Villach - 8/31/84
Friday - 10:00 A.M. - Hitched out of Yugoslavia yesterday with 2 rides. One from a German and one with a Frenchman in a car with a trailer. He let us ride in the trailer with his family. The border didn't even check our passports as we left. Amazing. Arrived in the small but beautiful town of Villach, Austria at 4:15. Ten minute walk to a wonderful neighborhood, 1 door, 1 knock and stone soup was boiling again. The difference between Yugoslavia and Austria makes Austria even better than it is. It is wonderful to be in a country where people smile. Never in Yugoslavia it seemed. They did not know how to form a proper line, smoke like chimneys, never smile, are often rude and filthy and generally are disagreeable. None of this is true here. In fact, as we were in line at a supermarket yesterday afternoon, joking about Yugo's in a line, the people in the que offered to let us go first. (like we are in a hurry?) Everyone we have met here has been pleasant and hospitable. Hope it lasts awhile. BLF.

Draustadt Villach - 8/31/84
Postcard Picture is  4 views of Villach - Greetings from Austria Linda, it is great to be here. Didn't end up sailing to Italy as it was too expensive, so I spent 2 days on a dirty & slow train going back north to Austria. It was awful, pushy, smelly and overcrowded & something I have eaten or drunk has given me the runs. But now it can only get better. This is a beautiful country, stone soup is boiling again. Wonderful people. Tomorrow I head for Graz, tell Dale I am visiting the Puch & will wear my Puch T-shirt. Maybe I will buy a moped if it is real cheap? Scott raved about Vienna & Let's Go says it is very nice, so I will go there for awhile as well. I miss you very much. Hope school is going well. It is good to be out of Yugoslavia and back to civilization. I am mailing the package today, so it should get there around the same time as this card. If you still want a leather jacket, include your size in a letter to Bern & I will look in Italy. I could guess, but I want it to fit right. Miss you more than ever, say hello to everyone. Love, Barry.

PS- Send the address of the tax department and I will send a card from Spain, as I will be there after Switzerland and France.

Villach - 8/31/84
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Villach - Hello Eddie & Mom. Peace at home now that Jill is gone? Is she happy at school and doing well? I am very happy to be out of Yugoslavia! It was not a very nice place to be, but I am glad I have seen it & even more glad that I am now here, with Yugoslavia safely behind. Went all the way down to the southern coast & couldn't get a boat without 3 bus connections, and then it was going to be expensive too. So, I took a 2 day train ride back north to the Austrian border. Never again. Austria is as lovely as Switzerland, and the people I have met so far are really nice. It is a very clean country, and very pretty. At last we are approaching the end of the tourist season here, and already it is possible to travel a bit easier. Less lines, less crowds, etc. One more month and it should be great, I am looking forward to seeing CJ, hope he is still planning on coming over. Weather had been much nicer. Had to spend my first night in a train station the other day in Yugoslavia. Very disappointed in ruining my perfect record. Oh well, that’s life. Take care and say hello to everyone, Barry.

Krumpendorf - 9/2/84
Sunday - 9:00 A.M. - Somehow, my calendar is off again. In Krumpendorf at Lake Worthersee. It is a small resort town with nothing except two mini-golfs, 30 to 40 small hotels, restaurants, ice cream shops, bike and moped rentals. Also, a most spectacular lake. Water skiing, windsurfing, etc. Blue, blue water. It is very hot. I am finally feeling better, me and my stomach are grateful. I am sure it was the moonshine I drank at the train station in Yugoslavia. (It was closer to gasoline than kerosene.)Or it could have been the water Duncan heated for our bouillon that did it. Anyway, today we relax on the beach. Our stone soup garden turned out to be a small hotel, and they charged us to stay. First they wanted 200 As, but we negotiated down to 50 and all are happy. ( 20 Austrian Shillings = $1 US, or there about). Not much else for now. BLF.

Krumpendorf - 9/2/84
Postcard Picture is 6 views of Krumpendorf - Dear Grandmother & Grandpop, Hello from Austria! This is #1 writing to report that all is well. I spent the day on the beach you see on the front of this card, enjoying the exceptionally hot weather, as well as the beautiful scenery on lake Werthersee. It is about 30 kilometers long, filled with crystal clear blue water, perfect temperature for swimming. I was very happy when I received your letter. It is good for me to hear from you, probably better than when you hear from me! Hope everything is good there. Say hello to aunt Marta & everyone. My thoughts are often with all of you. Stay well and send Grandpop out for Gino's so you don't have to cook. Then send him home for me. I am #1, but don't tell Jill. Love, Barry.

Graz - 9/3/84
Monday - 10:00 A.M. - Spent the day on the beach yesterday. Swam out about 150 meters to the middle of the lake and back. About 2 o’clock decided to go home and shower, pack and hitch out by 4:30 or so. Oh yeah, snuck on to the beach by walking up the coast and entering from the water. There was a dollar and a half admission otherwise. Anyway, as we left, they were having a neat parade. We watched awhile. Then an air show with the Concord, V.T.O.L. craft (Harriers I think), Choppers, formation stunt jets from several countries. It was neat. Two rides, and we were in Graz. 1st house and they said sure. Then the neighbors came and we all sat and talked, ate and drank for a few hours. Our host has a 1949 Puch motorcycle. Beautiful, Dale would just love it. They invited us to stay in a nice spare bedroom. Such nice people. Today, off to see Graz.

Graz - 9/4/84
Tuesday - 10:00 A.M. - Beautiful day today. Yesterday was very hot. We got up, had a nice breakfast and shower. Then waited for neighbor, the policeman to drive us to town. 1st we went to the post office and it cost more to mail my parcel (overland) than to buy all the stuff I was shipping. Bummer. Guess I am not mailing some of my junk home. Then, he took us to the city centrum and showed us the Schlossberg Clock Tower on top of the hill. Rode up on a cable car/funicular. Magnificent view of the town. He showed us where to catch the bus back home and bought us 6 bus tickets. We all helped a blind man cross the street and find his bus. He got us a good hot lunch and then took us to the TI before giving us, forcing us actually, to take 100 As each and telling us to have a good day. Very nice. Thank you officer. We went to Landes Zeughaus, the largest medieval armory in Europe. More than enough armor and swords and stuff to equip 30,000 men. Armor, horse armor, swords, Pikes, lances, maces, flint locks, and on and on. Even some devices for torturing prisoners and such. Five floors full to the brim. Enough to have ruled the known world once. We fed the ducks in the park. Ate a big Bratwurst. Saw buildings of beautiful style and grace, some with old murals painted on, others with statues. Lovely town. Home about 9 with a bottle of wine for our hosts, and one for our friendly neighbors. We all had a feast by candle light at the neighbors. We all talked till about 11. Then home to bed. Definitely a 4 star day. The best kind. Later. BLF.

Graz - 9/5/84
Wednesday - 1:00 P.M. -  Yesterday we went to the Puntigam brewery and arranged for a tour. Went through and they took everyone to their restaurant after the tour for beers and supper. Good food, including a hot meal!! For free. Then we walked to the Puch factory and arranged for a special tour this morning at 8.  So, after arranging the tour, we walked back home, got permission to stay one more night, and went to bed fairly early for a change. The tour of Puch was well worth the extra day. Not only bicycles, mopeds and motorcycles, but also Volkswagens, Mercedes Benz, buses, tanks, tractors, guns and dozens of other products. Another privet tour, just for us. Almost 3 hours. Afterwards, we got a great sports rain jacket, T-shirt, hat and key chain. Very nice. Then, off to Schloss Eggenberg to see the castle, the hunting museum, and the animal science museum. Lots of deformed animals including a duck with 4 legs. Peacocks and deer roam the gardens. Very nice. Now, we have supper, and then on to Vienna. BLF.

Graz - 9/5/84
Postcard Picture is Aerial view of Graz featuring the Puntigama brewery  with Puch Factory also marked in pen - Hello Linda, it's me again. The last few days have been truly “glamorous” and I really mean this. Graz is a lovely town. I visited this Brewery today, and after the tour they take you to a restaurant for all you can drink, and more importantly for all you can eat! Better than happy hour at The Rose, and entirely free. I have arranged for a guided tour of the Puch factory tomorrow and that should be excellent. The family I am staying with is fantastic. I am staying in the house, not in the garden. I eat with the family. They have given me money, I turned them down 3 times, but the neighbor and this family insisted I take their gift. It was about $10 & I have had 2 very good days here. I helped them with a little work in the garden this evening. They have plum trees, apple, cherry & apricot trees too. Also grape vines and every vegetable under the sun. They are very good people. These are very good days, the kind you must imagine I have always. I hope we do so well in Canada. I love and miss you more than ever at times like this. Austrians real know the art of fine living well, this is a great country. I hope to telephone you tomorrow, but by the time you get this card you will already know if I succeeded or not. I will write again soon too. Hope you got the package. Have an especially nice day today!. Love, Barry.

Vienna - 9/6/84
Thursday - 10:00 A.M. - We are now in Vienna, or as it is known locally Wien. We had a big supper yesterday before we left Graz. Meat, potatoes, salad, cookies. And beer. Said goodbye and then went next door to say goodbye to our neighbors. They gave us another drink and a few small gifts. Very nice again. It was sad leaving such a nice place. We finally left by about 3 or so, and arrived in Wien at 8:30. Found a garden on the fourth try. More nice people. Nice reception too. The daughter and her boyfriend took us to a pub about 10 or so. We had a beer, then home to sleep like a rock. Looks very much like it will be rain today, but we shall see. BLF.

Vienna - 9/6/84
Friday - 12:00 Noon - Cold weather is here. It is snowing in the Alps. Yesterday we saw a palace with huge gardens and a zoo. Then to the post office. I called Linda and home. Everything is OK. In fact, it seems pretty distant and a bit mundane. Then, a nice picnic lunch. Walked to the natural history museum, then the theater and the opera house. Saw a roller skate race with people from all over Europe. Listened to a street band from America. Ate a Bratwurst with the hottest mustard I ever tasted. Got a McDonalds coke. Walked for another 2 or 3 hours and took the tube home. Rain and cold in the night. Up for a shower. Then, rummaged through the pack, throwing some stuff away, and will mail some more unessential gear back home. I cut at least 5 pounds out of the pack. Good. Very nice. Not much else for now. BLF.

Graz - 9/6/84
Postcard Picture is 5 views of Schloss Eggenberg - Hello Dale, how is everything there these days? I went to the main Puch factory in Graz today and saw where mine was born.  They also make Volkswagens, Mercedes Benz and Fiat cars and parts, tanks, guns, buses and of course bikes, mopeds and motorcycles. They had some interesting OLD bikes & I got some pictures. They gave me a rain coat, racing hat, T-shirt and key chain as well. It was nice. Austria is a beautiful country, with some of the nicest people I have met anywhere. From here, I go to Vienna, and that should be interesting too. How is life at Ward V.W.? Did you know that Puch makes a lot of the V.W. cars, vans and parts? I guess you just can't get away from it. Went to the largest armory in Europe the other day, weapons and armor for 30,000 men. Swords, pikes, battle axes, lances, maces, etc. Pete & Hunter would have gone Melee happy. Please say hello to Linda for me, also Tommy, Pete and anyone else you chance to see. Just had to let you know I had been here. Take care of yourself & Stay out of trouble and drink a Crown Royal for me. Your friend, Barry.

Vienna - 9/7/84
Saturday - Time Unknown - Nice day yesterday, warm weather. Went to a big cathedral near the city centrum. Impressive, but not too ornate. Visited the catacombs underneath and that was equally impressive. Then to a small 13th century church which I found more interesting in it's squat simplicity. Then to Freud’s Vienna home and office. We arrived 3 hours after closing, but through persistence we begged our way in. Then walked along the river to the huge amusement park. Big, huge Ferris wheel with streetcar size cars where you can get a real view of the city. Lots of sex theaters, slot machines, video games, games of skill, chance & luck, including guns, bows & arrows, balls, darts, dice, etc. etc. Many rides, and go carts and food stands, even a McDonalds. (They are everywhere I think.) There are side shows, and sex museums. Stuff for kids of all ages. A real family place. Very nice. Then, off to the post office. Sent another small box of stuff overland. Mostly stuff from Puch and Graz, bar towels from England, Pete’s magnifying glass that I have never needed, My travel journal, book I, which is now filled up. Also some Toblerone candy bars from Switzerland for Jill and Linda. All in all, there are many beautiful buildings, plenty to see and do - Wien is a big city, but I find little that gives it real individuality. That is so hard for big cities to find. They are all the same in many ways. Vienna is nice, there is a lot of unique stuff here, but I am afraid that, at least in my opinion, it is just another big city. no more, no less. Better than some, but still, just another big city. Today, we leave for Linz. Later. BLF.
PS - While lightening the pack, I decided to eat my famous world tour can of Libby's peach halves that I have carried since London, in case of emergency munchies. They were good. They gave me security. But I have now lightened the pack a total of about 4 kilos. That is more important than security at this point. I threw away a few other things as well.

Vienna - 9/7/84
Postcard Picture is 7 views of Wien - Hello CJ, I called Mom yesterday and she told me you are coming around mid October. I am very happy you will be here & looking forward to seeing you. I haven't called yet because I want to be sure you have all the information we will need when I call. There is still time for you to write Bern again with as many details as possible, including your office hours and phone number in case I have to call you there. I can adapt to your schedule no problems, but must know when and where you arrive, how long you are staying, where, which airport you arrive at, etc. I would appreciate it if you could bring a few things when you come: A map of Europe, mine is almost worn out, a time magazine or good thick newspaper, & possibly a paperback book or two you have recently finished. Thanks. Are you coming on a charter group, alone, or with someone? Anyway, if you write to Bern soon after you receive this, I will get your letter and call you before you leave. Say hello to everyone. Looking forward to seeing you soon. PS-ask Jill to send her new address again, I lost it. Thanks, Love, Barry.

Vienna - 9/7/84
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Wien - Hello Grandma Simmie, how is everything there? I am doing fine, as always. Austria is a very beautiful country and the people are among the friendliest I have ever met. How are Gary, Bob & Natalie? I have not written them as I don't have their address, so please tell them I said “Hello”. Weather here is very good now, bright, warm days and cool clear nights. Perfect. In snowed in the Alps last night, but here in Vienna it is nice. Please give my best to everyone, take care of yourself. I will see you soon, Love, Barry.

Linz  - 9/8/84
Sunday - 10:30 A.M. - Left Vienna after a “best of 3” series in backgammon. I won all 3 games. We left at 2:30 and got a ride about quarter till 4. OOP’s, but first we went to the tube station and returned our 5 tube tickets for 60 As, then we bought some groceries, then hitched from right in front of the tube station. Got a ride with 2 Germans going to Salzburg, and they went out of their way to find a good place to drop us off, as it was cold and rainy. Very nice. Stayed under shelter of a large, indented doorway to a store and read for 2 hours. Then, it stopped raining and we started the daily quest for quarters. 1st close call, the lady was plain goofy. She talked about 15 minutes (without really saying much of anything, let alone YES or NO). Finally, she said she must ask her husband, and of course his answer was a swift and certain NO. I was just as glad in a way, so we left. I didn't see much future for us at that house. It was now dark, as it seems to get dark now all at once, right around 8, sharp. Anyway, we continued working down the street and were invited in to a very big home where there was a birthday party in progress. They were all drinking rum, and wine, and beer and they immediately gave us a big plate of hot goulash. I thought it was excellent, but Gillian eat it. She found it just too spicy. Anyway, we staid at the party about an hour, but the owners of the house came along and said we could not stay. So now it is nearly 9:30, maybe even 10 P.M. and we went in search of a home again. This time, we were invited to sleep in an empty flat that the owners are trying to rent. I put out the sleeping bags, and we were invited upstairs for a glass of wine. Imagine my surprise when it turned out to be another party in progress! There was a long haired Frank Zappa fan who is supposed to bring the Filmore East album over for me today.  Frank Zappa will be in concert at Vienna on 10 November. Anyway, we ate and drank well into the night. They played guitar and mandolin and sang. Some of us played CWO. It was nice and reminded me a lot of my friends in Richmond. Sometimes my luck astounds even me. Later for now. BLF.
BIG PS- Our host just returned from a holiday in Greece - he say's that he too is a stone soup traveler, as were 3 of his guests at the party! Small world? I don't think so. Just fate, with a sense of humor. BLF.

Linz - 9/9/84
Monday - 8:30 A.M. - Cold and rainy yesterday. Took a good hot shower and then had a big hot breakfast. After a while, we all went to find Herbert and get the Live AT The Filmore East album. Also, I wanted to listen to Jimi Hendrix, Are You Experienced. Then we drank some wine and went out to dinner. The meal was excellent, I ate till I was stuffed. Then came home, read The Source for a bit, I am almost finished now, I am on page 932. Boy, that James Michener sure gives you a lot of book for your money! To bed early last night and now we are off to see Linz. Very nice. BLF.

Linz - 9/10/84
Tuesday - 2:00 p.m. - Cold and rainy again yesterday. Took the train to town and waited for the heavy rain to stop, or at least lighten up a bit. Read my book in the train station for awhile. Then, walked in to town. Bought 4 new tent pegs. Then bought some bread & milk & smoked mackerel for lunch. The fish was excellent. Then went to a billiard club and played chess with GH for awhile. We also played a bit of snooker’s. Then, in a park we fed the pigeons. They would land right on your hand, on your arm, head, shoulder where ever. They wanted bread worse than me! Alfred Hitchcock was probably inspired here, but we had fun. Then along the river Danube. I posted a card to CJ and grandma Simmie. Went to AMEX and cashed a travelers check. Then we bought 3 liters of wine (Vine), about 75 cents apiece. Then walked in to a Kino (cinema) to get out of the rain. We watched Ben Hur in German with no English subtitles, but I already knew what most of the dialogue was about anyway. And, it was free, so who can complain. Then, back home, small dinner and to some pubs with Freddie. Back to drink a bottle of wine and argue politics till almost 3 in the morning. I slept in late today. Good hot shower and a big breakfast. I am now prepared for another afternoon of sights. Not much else till later. BLF.

Salzburg - 9/11/84
Wednesday - 7:30 p.m. - Rained all night last night. We walked in to town anyway, and met a man who drove us up a big hill to a hotel in an old castle. We enjoyed a lovely view of the city. Walked around and saw Mozart’s birth house and a statue of him. Walked back to our new garden, got the tent up in the rain and went to sleep. Up this morning, and as soon as we hung the tent to dry, I left to go buy some groceries. When I got back, Gillian said we had been asked to leave NOW, so we couldn't even get the tent dry, or stow all gear properly. We found a nice house one block over, hung the tent to dry and had lunch with our new and friendly hosts. Very nice. Then walked to town. Saw another castle, walked along the river, saw a monastery with a church carved right out of the rock mountainside, and it also had some catacombs.. Also saw a baroque cathedral and a small but interesting chapel. Found a group of Americans on a guided tour and followed them around so we could listen to the guide too. Decided to skip the salt mines as they are expensive, so I think tomorrow we will head to Innsbruck. All in all, a tiring, long day. But I really like this picturesque town, and our current hosts. Later. BLF.

Salzburg - 9/11/84
Postcard Austria Picture is 5 views of Salzburg - Hello again Mom & Eddie, from Austria, as you can see I am in famous Salzburg, where they filmed much of “The Sound of Music”. It is a beautiful town, except for the cold, the rain and all the other tourists. Still, having a great time, looking forward to seeing CJ and then heading south for some (hopefully) warm weather. From here I go to Innsbruck and that should be nice. Then probably back towards Switzerland. Please ask CJ to bring a good map of Africa, as I would find it useful, and the maps here are not printed in English. Stone soup boils very well in Austria, some of the nicest people I have met. Hope you weren't late for work because of my call. I thought it was earlier & I would get Eddie as well. It was good to speak with you, and Vienna was very nice. I walked up the mountain in picture 4 and visited the lovely castle. It is now a hotel, museum & shopping place, and very neat. In the town of Linz I knocked on a door & the people who live there are also stone soupers. I spent 3 very nice days there, as they were particularly friendly. Not much else for now, take care, BLIFF.

Salzburg - 9/12/84
Thursday - 10:00 a.m. - Last night I got the tent up just as it got completely dark. Then sat down with Gillian, and we ate sandwiches. cheese again. Very nice. We chatted awhile, then our hosts appeared. They brought out some hot soup and some cold beer to go along with our sandwiches. Very nice. We all talked awhile, then GH and I went to the pub so we could play a few games of backgammon. Home for a good nights sleep. Up this morning early. I found our hosts had set a nice breakfast out on the picnic table for us. It was set with cereal, yogurt, tea, bread, jam, etc. Very nice. Thanks. We head today for Innsbruck. BLF.

Linz - 9/12/84
Postcard Picture is Statue & Street in Linz - Hello Jill, how is school and everything? Fine I hope. I also hope it's more than just your social life that is doing well, i.e. academics - remember them? I am doing well, I sent some good chocolate home for you but it probably wont be there before mid October as I shipped overland. It is getting very cold here now, and it will soon be time to head south. Hope it is warm and sunny in Spain. Wish you were here to help me speak Spanish (and drink in the cantinas). Stayed in this town with some friendly stone soup travelers who live here. They actually travel like I do, so they were especially nice, helpful & generous. Freddie & Crystal, they are neat, but Freddie reminds me of an Austrian Alan Herman. When I arrived they were having a party & we all got real drunk, ate lots of good food & listened to rock and roll. 2 of them had guitars & played neat folk songs and it was real fun. Looking forward to getting a letter from you soon, so there better be one waiting for me.  What do you mean you sent a joint? Well thanks. I am still having a great time, but it goes by so quickly, hard to believe it has been nearly 5 months. I think I am getting spoiled and don't want to work anymore. Travel is the life for me. Take care, Love, Barry.
PS- Meeting CJ in France in mid October. Should be neat, huh?

Salzburg  - 9/12/84
Postcard Picture is St. Peter monastery carved in mountain side - Linda, Grus Gott from Salzburg. It was very good talking to you on the phone, sorry I got you out of the shower. I thought it would be earlier there. Still can't figure out why you thought I would be home in October. Sorry, but it will be soon enough. hard to believe it has been nearly 5 months already. In Linz I knocked on a door looking for a garden & the people who live there turned out to be stone soupers themselves. I had 3 very nice days with them, but here in Salzburg it has been more difficult. The picture on this card is part of a monastery carved out of a mountain around 300 AD At the top of the mountain next to it is a huge castle, in very good shape still. In the church carved out of the mountain, there are catacombs and it is real neat. Today I head for Innsbruck and then Switzerland. I will send you some Swiss chocolate & Joe's Swiss cow bell, so please see that he gets it for me. If I see anything else you might like I will send that as well. I miss you very much & wish I were with you right now, but I have your picture and that helps a lot. Looking forward to getting your letters soon too. Hope working and going to school isn't too much for you, it will all be over soon. Say hello to everyone for me, take care of yourself, study your French, we will need it in Canada. See you soon, Love, Barry.
PS- CJ is coming to France in mid October and I will see him. Why don't you come for awhile, it would be great to have you here. PPS - Tell Dale I met a Zappa freak and listened to “Billy the Mountain”.

Zell Am See - 9/12/84
Thursday - 8:00 p.m. - Evening Supplement - Stood by the road for 3 and a half hours with no luck. Finally a truck stopped and gave us a lift to a fork in the road, only about 10 k progress. Then, with in 2 minutes, got another ride with an American who took us 50 k or so. Then, maybe 2 or 3 minutes after he let us out, the original truck picked us up AGAIN. Surprise. Took us to his home in Zell Am See, in the middle of lovely mountains and facing a glacier where they have skiing year round. He rents private rooms, and tonight we stay as his guest. We had a couple beers, then in for a hot shower before we go out for steak dinners. Yum Yum, very nice. yippee ii oh ky ayy!!. BLF.

Zell Am See - 9/13/84
2 Austria Saturday - 8:30 a.m. - Dinner Thursday night was probably the best I have had yet. There was a good portion, but it was so tasty - in a garlic and something sauce, and tender enough to melt in your mouth. mmmmmm. Then back to see some home movies of the trip our hosts took to America, including shots of the Mormon Temple in the DC, Maryland area. A good sleep and in the morning I got a gift of a cigarette rolling machine, papers and tobacco. Nice people. Then, off to explore Zell Am See. ( 2 things I forgot to mention - I think - from way back 1) I saw the bridge in Sarajevo where WW I started when Francis Ferdinand was assassinated, & 2) got a Goofy Pez dispenser and eat pez once in a while for kicks these days)A lovely town, with beautiful clear clean lake. Fed swans and ducks right out of my hand, bought a small magnetic chess set, bought a box of chocolate for our hosts and enjoyed splendid weather. One problem though, I have a terrible cold, sore throat, congestion etc., and I feel lousy. Had a good home made dinner today. We leave for Innsbruck again, tomorrow. BLF.

Innsbruck - 9/16/84
Monday - 10:30 a.m. - Yesterday it was rain as usual. My cold is still terrible, sneezing,  coughing & congestion. Rides came easy and we were dropped off at an ESSO in Innsbruck by 3. Waited through a pouring rain till 7:30 or so. Killed time playing backgammon, chess and checkers. It wasn't too bad, as I feel too lousy to do much anyway. It took awhile to find a garden. It was already pitch dark, and raining very heavily again before we finally found a place. We found a nice house with an elderly retired couple. They gave us a whole floor of the house (3 floors, each set up as an individual apartment). Bed, bath and kitchen. Fed us din din & we all drank some wine. This morning, breakfast, and while I was upstairs shaving etc., they gave GH 600 shillings for us to eat out, pay admissions, etc. Unbelievable! Thanks. It is still pouring rain, and rather cold, but they have also lent us nice umbrellas. Very nice. Must see Innsbruck now. More later. BLF. Monday - 11:30 p.m. - Supplemental Evening Entry - Rained all day. Remembered 2 things I forgot to include 1) at Zell Am See we stayed one block from the Porsche family mansion as in Porsche of auto fame. 2) saw a neat old lady about 80 in traditional dress hitching. Anyway, in spite of the rain a lovely day. Walked into town and saw the palace, an art museum, and the Olympic museum. Each charged a 20 As entry fee, but miraculously (& some what sneakily) we avoided the charge at each entrance. Went to Burger King for a Whopper lunch and the Tyrol Restaurant for dinner. Bought 2 post cards. Figure I have spent nothing at all in the entire last week. Luck has been exceptional. I-Innsbruck is a fine town. Also saw Church of Maximillian with 25 to 30 life size bronze or copper statues, an Arc De Triumph, narrow streets dwarfed by snow capped mountains and rain clouds. Lots of tourists. Played chess with hostess. I am getting fairly good for a beginner. We have been invited to stay another night. As the weather is very bad and the accommodations are very good we just might. A pleasant day. Tomorrow, or soon, on to Liechtenstein - the smallest country in the world? 157 sq. km, 26,000 people. Not much else for now. BLF.

Innsbruck - 9/17/84
Postcard Picture is Tyrol region & Innsbruck, 6 views - Hello Alan, still here and having a great time, all except in Yugoslavia. That was really the pits. The only half decent place was Sarajevo. But Austria is fantastic. Some of the friendliest and most generous people I have ever met. From here, I am going to Liechtenstein, the smallest country in the world. Get out your map and look very carefully between Switzerland & Austria. About the size of a small lake at 157 square kilometers, 26,000 inhabitants total, but it should be fun. Hope you are doing well in school and staying out of trouble. Please say hello to Kerry for me. It would be real nice if you illiterate S.O.B.'s would send me a letter and let me know what is going on there. Anyway, take care & don't forget to say hello to your Mom and dad for me. Your friend, Barry.

Innsbruck - 9/17/84
Postcard Picture is 9 views of Innsbruck - Hello Linda, I am in Innsbruck & it has been raining for 3 solid days. The bad news is I have a miserable cold and it is driving me crazy. The good news is I have been having incredible luck. The other day I got a ride towards Innsbruck & got out when he was going down the wrong fork in the road. Got another ride very quickly, about 50 km. About 2 minutes after I got out, my first ride drove by? He stopped again and took me to his home in Zell Am See. I went out to dinner with him and his wife, and stayed in their house for 2 days. When I left he gave me 200 shillings! The town was nice, a glacier for year round skiing, lake for swimming and boating. A few doors down was the Porsche family mansion. Then to Innsbruck, in the rain, no doubt helping my cold immensely. Arrived  and knocked on 2 doors, was invited to stay inside as they have a whole guest house. Got fed hot soup and sandwiches and the next morning they gave me 600 shillings, about $30 American, and told me to have a good time in Innsbruck. They recommended a restaurant, etc. I am staying an extra night now, hoping the rain will stop and my cold will go away. I have taken up playing chess, bought a small board & play often. I am almost pretty good now. Tomorrow I go to Liechtenstein, the smallest country in the world. Look very carefully at a map -just between Austria and Switzerland. About the size of a small lake, it is 157 sq. km and has only 26.000 citizens. Should be fun. A prince owns the country! I love and miss you. Take care, do well in school and stay healthy. Love, Barry
PS- Looking forward to your letters very soon now. Sorry I wont be with you in October. Wish I would be.

Innsbruck - 9/18/84
Tuesday - 9:00 a.m. - Yesterday cold and rainy. Up at 11, had lunch with hosts. Walked up hill to very nice castle and looked around. Then down to shopping mall, grocery store, tobacco shop & post office to mail cards to Mom-Mom, Linda and Alan. Back for afternoon chess with GH. Met the nephew again, Wolfing. He works in the legal department at the bank. He came upstairs to visit. I cooked my famous tuna casserole for dinner. Then chess games most of the night. Also a game or two of checkers. Fun. Goodnight. Sleep now, my cold is almost (but not yet) gone. Time to pack and move on. BLF.

Vaduz 9/19/84
Wednesday - 3:15 p.m. - Walked through Innsbruck to west bound autobahn and hitched unsuccessfully for one hour . So I hid by the Inns river and GH hitched and got us a ride with Willie, the Italian. He lives in Switzerland and owns a restaurant. He bought us both lunch and dropped us about 5 k from Liechtenstein. One and a half more hours and we got a ride with Gerald Miere who took us home and then back out cross country pub hopping. We got pissed drunk, then home for dinner. Then drinking wine. I took a shower He got his slides ready. We smoked some home grown Liechtenstein gold, and I tried some peppermint snuff. We saw his slides of America, North and South. Also Singapore, New Zealand, Austria, Peru, and more, etc. He traveled 2 years and just came home 2 months ago. I am very hung over this morning. Ill. But now, I am in Vaduz. I just wrote Mom-Mom, Linda and Dale. I am ready to hitch to Switzerland. Some interesting things here. Unemployment is 0.06%. There are two main (national) roads. The country is owned by a prince, is world famous for beautiful stamps, is ruled by a parliament with the prince's approval. They use Swiss currency and embassies. The country has 2 parts; Upper & Lower. maybe 30,000 people with tourists. Tops! It is 25 k long and maybe between 1 and 2 k wide. Very nice place. BLF.

Vaduz - 9/19/84
Postcard Picture is 5 views of Vaduz, Liechtenstein - Hello Linda, as I said in my card from Innsbruck, I am now here. Beautiful country. Met a guy who drove me around and we pub hopped across the country and back. There is a Prince that owns the country and lives in the castle. Unemployment is 0.06% and they are afraid it may reach as high as 1%. There are 2 main roads that run the length of 25 km, and many roads in between. Width is 1-2 km max. I am very hung over right now, but my cold is getting better. Do you like the stamp on this card? They are famous for the beautiful stamps. Have you ever heard of this place before I wrote about it? I just noticed it by accident when I saw a car with plates from here, in Austria. I asked someone, and then got out my map. I thought I knew the map well, but this was a surprise to me. Anyway, I love and miss you very much. Say hello to everyone for me, do well in school. I will send Joe's bell and something for you in a day or 2 from Switzerland. Love, Barry.

Vaduz  - 9/19/84
Postcard Picture is a map of  Liechtenstein and  6 views - Hello Mom & Eddie, from one of the smallest countries in the world. Liechtenstein is about 25 km long and has 2 parts, upper & lower. Unemployment here is 0.06%. There are 2 main roads, and they are famous here mostly for their beautiful postage stamps. There is a real Prince that lives in a castle & owns the whole country. Anyway, I am fine and from here going to Zurich as it is quite near. I will probably eat at the Guild House, where we had such a fine meal when we all went together last time. I have been having incredibly good luck all through Austria and now Liechtenstein too. Hope it continues throughout the trip. Weather is starting to get cold & we go off daylight saving time in two days. Had you ever heard of this place before you got this card? If you look on a map just between Switzerland and Austria it likes like a tiny lake. Anyway, say hello to everyone, take care, Barry

Vaduz - 9/19/84
Postcard Picture is the castle plus 8 classic stamps - Hello Dale, ever heard of this tiny country? It is really neat. Billy and Ethel could not come here on vacation even with the money from the royalties on the postcards because this country is just too small. 30,000 people, 25 km long, 1 to 2 km wide. Ruled by a Prince who lives in the castle on this card, 0.06% unemployment, moderate taxes. Really a nice place. I am real hung over today because I went cross country pub hopping last night & truly went from one end of the country to the other, drinking all the way. Also had a nice smoke with my new friend. So, I am real hung over today & wish I was a mountain, and had a tree for a wife & royalties for all the post cards. Please say hello to Pete and Linda from me, also Tommy and your little brother. Anyway, take care and write me so I can find out what is happening in Richmond. Your friend, Barry.

Zurich - 9/20/84
Thursday - 11:00 a.m. - One ride from Vaduz to Zurich, Switzerland and it didn't take long, and we were here before 6. Walking across a foot bridge downtown, there were about 30 people selling hash, just like Christianshavn in Copenhagen. Too expensive, 100 Swiss Francs for a couple grams. Whew. Took a #6 tram to the end of the line and found a nice garden, 1st try. Professor Freddie, a research professor, and his family. Unpacked, made camp, then dressed up and went to town. Went by the Hotel Zurich, where I stayed last trip, for a look around. It wasn't exactly how I remembered it, but then it has been 8 or 9 years since I was last here. Then to the PTT so Gillian could phone home. She talked almost half an hour. Very nice. Then, to the Guild House for a delicious dinner and big splurge. The Maitre' Dee said it would be impossible to be seated without a reservation, but after hanging around a couple hours on standby, we somehow got a table around 10:30. I ordered essence of duck soup and veal stuffed with goose livers & truffles. It was a dish for two. It was 4 star EXCELLENT, just as I knew it would (still) be. Once again, reminded me of last trip. We met two people from Connecticut at the next table. They were very nice. We all had a few laughs. After some coffee, a nice 45 minute walk home to help with the digestion of such a rich meal, and home to bed for a good nights sleep. Later. BLF.
PS- Notes on current exchange rates. The dollar has gotten stronger every day of my voyage. right now, it is something like $1 US = 2.5 Swiss Francs, $1 US = 20.16 Austrian Shillings, but here in Switzerland As to Swiss Franc = 11.5 As to 1 Swiss Franc, or in other words we will lose about 20% on our shillings here. I think I will just cash a check and hang on to the shillings for another country. BLF.

Zurich - 9/21/84
9:30 a.m. - Walked all day yesterday. We were invited in for breakfast or coffee, cheese, jam etc. Very nice weather now. Walked down Bahnhoff Strasse and looked in the shops. Enjoyed a nice picnic lunch and ate some smoked pork that tastes a lot like bacon. Walked through the old city and around the lake to see all the boats. Looked for tourist shops for the cow bell Joe wanted (in Richmond), and the Cuckoo Clock Linda asked for, but I found no tourist shops all day. Funny how you see them everywhere, until you are actually ready to buy something. Ironic, as every other time we try to get away from such shops and avoid temptation. Walked by the Guild house and looked at the beautiful craftsmanship in the building. Remembering the meal, and the service yesterday. Very Nice. Fun watching them whisk around the place, dishing out food and pampering us in every detail. Big budget buster meal though. We spent WAY too much for our budget, but I have planned this splurge for months, so - what the hell. Neat observation - In England and some other countries, breakfast is the main daily meal, the shops open (and close) early. In Austria & Switzerland & other places, the main meal is lunch. Shops close for 2 or 3 hours and everyone relaxes. At home, and in yet other places, it is dinner that is the main meal. There are other cultural reflections that I believe correlate with this system as well, and I find some interesting patterns. Anyway, we can get in to those a bit later. We had a nice dinner with our host/family last night. I bought a handmade mountain pipe to send home with the other souvenirs that we eventually found. Not much else for now.  Today, we move on to Lucerne. Later. BLF.

Lucerne - 9/23/84
Sunday - 10:00 p.m. - Hitched from Zurich to Zug, and looked around for 2 hours or so, then continued on to Lucerne. Went to the AMEX office and got money and left packs so we could look around. Went to Bucherers and watched the restaurant style jewelry store and couldn't help thinking about Mom and Eddie.  Walked the covered bridges, and spent a lot of time studying the pictorial history portrayed on them. Especially the stuff from the great plague. (black death). Then watched some old men playing chess  on the street. Looked in many of the shops and finally returned to AMEX for our bags, and started looking for a new home. Lots and lots of rejection in this tourist town. Finally, at the very last house in sight we got a yes. It turned out to be an American girl from Berkley living with a Swiss and 2 Australians. Tienne, John, John and Louise. We ate dinner with them, played CWO and drank wine, and then we played chess. In the morning, GH & I went to Mt. Pilatus and rode up to the top on the cables. Very expensive, 22 SF one way. It started snowing at the top soon after we arrived. We walked down the “wrong” side of the mountain as it is less steep. Got below the snow line fairly quickly.  Below the snow, we were somehow still above the rain in a little band of nice weather, with snow above and rain below. Wild. Another half hour or so and we hit the rain. All together, it took another 3 and a half hours to get down. It was rough going. We didn't always stick to the path, tried to save time by going down in a straight line. I fell on a very steep grade and rolled over 50 feet before I could stop tumbling. I hurt my knee. It is very sore. Anyway, we arrived in another town, on the opposite side of the mountain, and so had to hitch back to town. Had dinner with our hosts again, played chess, showered and slept inside this time. 2 more observations- 1) music is an international language, it is always written in the same form. 2) I could make a fortune by building a huge sliding board, or waterslide, or wheeled toboggan track, or pulley and cable ride of some type down one of these tourist area mountains. Imagine a 7 to 10 thousand foot sliding board. Awesome! Later. BLF.
PS- It is pissing down rain again, as usual. Self"

Lucerne - 9/23/84
Postcard Picture is 6 views of Luzern - Hello Linda, from Switzerland. How is everything there? I am OK, but yesterday I took a cable car up Mount Pilatus about 7,000 feet & it was too expensive to ride back down so I decided to walk it. It would have been nice except I was about 200 feet down and it started to snow like crazy, you couldn't see 100 feet in front of you. I finally got below the snow line after falling once or twice, and from there it rained the rest of the way down. I am not sure which was worse.  It took about 3 and a half to four hours altogether, but I guess it was fun. I am sure I'll never forget it anyway.  I am sending you a small present, and when it says “cuckoo” it will remind you of me. Luzern is a real nice town and I am staying with a Swiss guy and an American girl. Also two Australians. I have made a slight change of plans and will be going to Italy and Greece before Spain, as it is much cheaper to sail from Spain to Africa than from Greece, so the tax department will have to wait awhile longer for some cards. As always, I love and miss you very much. Stay well and take care. Say hello to everyone for me, Love Barry.

Luzern - 9/23/84
Postcard Picture is 6 views of Zug - Dear Mom & Eddie, Hello, I am in Luzern visiting your 2 favorite Swiss places; Bucherer and Mt. Pilatus. I climbed all the down the mountain and it was really great. Wish you were here Eddie, I know you would have loved it. I charged a dinner in the Guild House at Zurich, veal stuffed with goose livers and truffles. It was excellent. I am also going to charge a few souvenirs that some friends want. Use the cash flow account to cover me please. Looking forward to picking up my mail, I will probably get it about the time you are getting this. Not much else going on, but I am fine and healthy. Say hello to everyone, take care & don’t work too hard. Love, Barry

Stans - 9/24/84
Monday - 11:00 a.m. -Up yesterday to rain once again. Finally left about 2:30 and went shopping. Bought Joe his Swiss cow bell, Linda her cuckoo clock and assorted chocolates for everyone else. Hitched a ride with Peter, and we ended up at his home here in Stans. We drank some beer and listened to music. “Up Around The Bend” by CCR seemed especially appropriate. Had a nice night, and today - there was sunshine! Went out to dinner and had spaghetti and a banana split for dessert. Walked on the city wall, and up the towers. My legs are still sore from the mountain. Not much else. BLF.

Lugano - 9/24/84
Monday - 6:30 p.m. - Evening Supplement - I am in a garden in a small village about 3 Klicks outside of Lugano. Hitched into the city and ate a picnic lunch in beautiful sunshine! Went out by lake and enjoyed the weather. Our friend Susan (from hitching a while back) was off today, so we left her a message. We looked for hours, but could find no houses with gardens, so we hitched back out of town and ended up here. Neat expression for the day - Tour bus groups = Rolling geriatric wards - John. I bought a big bottle of Sangria for 4 SFr, hope it cures my legs, they really ache - especially sitting, standing or walking. Ouch. Down hill is the worst. Later. BLF PS - There are Palm trees here - this is the Swiss riviera and our garden is by a palm tree. In fact, the tent is directly beneath one, in the shade and somewhat sheltered from rain. BLF.

Lugano - 9/25/84
Tuesday - 10:00 a.m. - I forgot to mention that we went through the Gothard tunnel yesterday. At just over 17 Klicks (about 10 miles) it is impressive. Carved right through the mountain. Also, finally figured out something. I always wondered what the MU in MU The Best of Jethro Tull meant. MU is a radio frequency band, similar to FM in the states. Neat. Also, drank Sangria and played chess last night with our hostess. The husband finally came home. He and the wife don't speak any English, but they do speak French. GH is pretty good at French. I am learning as I go. We have been told we may stay here as long as we like if we are understanding things as well as I think we are. It is sunny today, but it rained again last night. Today a solid blue sky and sunshine and we are off to Lugano after I roll a few cigarettes and fill the case Peter gave me. BLF.

San Pietro - 9/26/84
Wednesday - 8:30 a.m. - Explored Lugano thoroughly yesterday. Rode a funicular up the hill, bought post cards and some groceries. Hitched back to our little village garden using the old hide Barry and let Gillian stop a car hitching trick. We packed and left for the Matterhorn. 1st ride at 4:30 with Anne. Stayed at her home with her and Albert. Very nice. Music, beer, chess and fun here in tiny San Pietro Distabio. Also, Doodie from the gas station came by and we smoked some of his Swiss grown special. Had a nice sleep, they put us up in the master bedroom and they insisted on sleeping on the couch. Wow. Very nice, but we felt uncomfortable about it, but they really insisted. We have been invited to come back anytime. Clean, well fed and rested. Leg still hurts, but we are ready to carry on. There is more for now, but it is 8:30 a.m., we are trying to get organized and on the road and I can't think right now, so until later. BLF.

Simplon Pass - 9/26/84
Wednesday - 7:30 p.m. - Evening Supplement - Exciting day. Left early and got good rides towards Italy. Once there, we found ourselves in trouble. Tiny roads and just a few cars passing by. Slow getting rides. Started raining and we just managed to get a ride as it started really pouring. We were in the middle of nowhere, there was no shelter with in sight anywhere. Very nice. Anyway, our ride let us out at a shoe store about 5 k from the border where we played chess and waited for the rain to slow. Just before he closed the store, GH went out with her umbrella and caught us a ride. I am getting spoiled, letting her do all the work these days it seems. Anyway, I ran out with all the bags and we got to the border. This ride was with 2 men from Yugoslavia, and when we got to the Swiss border we were stopped and asked to come inside. They tore the car apart big time. Also, everyone’s luggage. Asked us to empty all of our pockets and searched us all extensively. I was lucky as I have my Swiss farmers pipe! Whew. Shades of Midnight Express. Finally started up the mountain pass after about 2 hours of border search. We got about half way up the mountain, but it started snowing heavily, and our driver was drinking heavily. So we will stay here at the bar and hotel on the top of the mountain for awhile and let them continue on without us. Wait and see what happens next. Not much else for now, but I think I will stay away from mountains for awhile. They seem to bring bad luck for me.

Simplon Pass - 9/26/84
Wednesday - 9:30 p.m. - Final Evening Supplement - The Yugo's skipped on their bar tab and the restaurant tried to give GH & I the check. We refused to pay, we were not even drinking with them. Anyway, we met Tony from London and eventually they plowed the road. We got a ride with Tony, and tried to leave about 2 minutes after they plowed, but no one could get through as it is still snowing heavily. Actually, 2 cars and a crazy motorcyclist made it beyond our mark, but the authorities say the road is worse further down, and they have now closed the pass. We only made it about 100 meters or so. Anyway, now we are back, looks like a long night and a long winter. But down in the valley it is still T-shirt weather in the 80's.

Lausanne - 9/27/84
Thursday - 8:00 p.m. - Tony hired a tow truck last night about 10  or so, to get the car the rest of the way up the road to the hotel at the top of Simplon Pass. He got a hotel room for the 3 of us and we played checkers and backgammon. He is a law professor in London and very nice. This morning he drove us to Tasch and we walked 6 Klicks through the mountains to Zermat to see the town with no cars at the foot of the Matterhorn. Both the town and the mountain are excellent. There are a few electric cars and lots of horse drawn carriages, people skiing and wonderful clean mountain air. Ate a picnic lunch of leftover breakfast, chocolate, fruit, nuts and Dextro Energin. Then to Sion to buy groceries. We left late this afternoon for Lausanne. 1st try, and we got a nice garden. Hitch here was easy and fast as our main ride averaged about 180 k/hr. It is getting dark quickly, so I must make camp, then we will walk in to town and see what is what, and what it's all about. Beautiful warm weather today and no rain or snow. But, it is getting cold now. Later. BLF.

Lausanne - 9/28/84
Friday - 9:30 a.m. - 5 month anniversary today. where did the time go? My knee is an agony, I couldn't even sleep last night. I don’t know what’s wrong, it is not swollen anymore but it hurts like hell and can't be bent much. I am sure carrying the pack is not helping it heal, but what else can I do. Anyway, had a nice look at the town last night, very small and built on steep hills. Today we will see the collection L'art De Brut and then go to Berne again for mail. Yay. I have been wondering about deaf people, and sign language. Is it international, or are there sign languages for Italian, German, English, etc.  Interesting implications either way. Another nice day. Hooray! Later. BLF.

Lausanne - 9/28/84
Postcard Picture is 6 views of Zermat & the Matterhorn - Hello Mom & Eddie, I am in Lausanne now, but I was in Zermat yesterday. Trying to get there I was caught in a blizzard on the Simplon pass. Cars couldn't go up or down, but I met a nice professor from London who rented me a room in a mountain hotel. In the morning, it was sunny, and in the valley again it was very warm. Zermat is a neat town. No cars allowed, so I walked 6 km to get there and got a spectacular view of the Matterhorn. Went to an art gallery today with works from psycho's and criminals and it was neat. have also revisited beautiful Lugano, seen lake C-O-M-O, and Locarno, all lovely as ever. Today, back to Bern for mail. Yay! As always, everything here is fine, miss all of you so say hello to everyone. Looking forward to seeing CJ and roaming the streets of Paris. Hope it's better than Beograd was. Send Grandpop home and tell Jill I am #1. Take care, Love, BLIFF. PS- “ Rolex is the best” they say at Bucherer.

Lausanne - 9/28/84
Postcard Picture is the hotel at the top of the Simplon Pass - Hello Walter and Babette, How is everything there? I am fine as always, and seeing lot's of people, places and things. This picture is a hotel on the Simplon pass. On my way to Zermat to see the Matterhorn, I had to cross this pass. Two thirds of the way up I found a blizzard, and cars could not continue up, or retreat back down. They plowed the road every half hour, but you could not see and anyway, within 3 minutes they were covered again. Stayed in this little hotel and drove down in the morning to a valley where there are palm trees & warm weather. Say hello to Linda for me, keep her out of trouble (if you can) and share this card with her please. Hope the N&C is doing better than ever. Going to France next to roam the streets of Gay Paris. Should be nice. Anyway, take care and stay well. Say hello to Linda and I will write again soon, your friend, Barry

Lausanne - 9/28/84
Postcard Picture is 5 views of Lugano - Dear Linda, Hello, I am in Lausanne, part of French Switzerland. After my last card, I headed towards Zermat to see the Matterhorn. I had to go through Italy and back in to Switzerland. At the border, they stopped the car and searched everyone and everything top to bottom. I was lucky the dog did not smell a very small gift I got in Locarno. Shades of midnight express. Next I had to cross Simplon pass to get to Zermat. I got about two thirds of the way up and there was a blizzard. Cars could not go up or down and I was stuck. Met a professor from a London university and he rented a hotel room on the mountain, and let me stay as well. In the morning, you go to the valley and there is sunshine and palm trees. Unbelievable. Today is Friday, 28 September, my five month mark. Miss you more than ever and I will head to Bern today to get my mail. Will write again as soon as I read your letters. Sent you Joe's presents Monday 23 September. They go by boat and should arrive in 4 to 6 weeks. I hope you like them. After Bern, again on to Geneva, so you can buy more Geneva cookies. Life has certainly been exciting here the last couple of weeks. Hope it continues. Hurt my knee falling down a mountain and it's killing me. I know how you feel now. Take care, Love, Barry.

Berne - 9/29/84
Saturday - 11:00 a.m. - Nice weather again today. Snuck in to the art museum for free yesterday. Very nice. Glad I didn't pay to see it. Then to Migros for groceries. Bought smoked peppered mackerel and bread. Back home to pack and eat. Drank coffee with our host, cleaned up, packed and left for Berne. Arrived in plenty of time to get my ELEVEN letters from the faithful, including an incoherent sentence or two from Pete & Gordon. Bought a bottle of beer and went to a nice park overlooking the river to read mail. Met some folks in the park and smoked some wacky tabacky with them. CJ wrote that he will be in Paris on 20 October, so I will try and call him today. Then, to our old host house here. They were very friendly and glad to see us back again. His mother  is here now though, so we don't get our bedroom. Talked for awhile and played chess till late in to the night. Good sleep now, and then back in to town. Later. BLF.
PS- Jill sent a picture of my going away party and it is great!

Berne - 9/30/84
Sunday - 10:30 A.M. - Warm and sunny yesterday and today. Called Mr. C & Linda, and called Mom and Eddie. This time they really accepted the call and we talked for a few minutes. Usually, I call collect, person to person for myself as a sort of signal. That way, neither of us have to pay for a call, but they know I am still OK, and they know where I am. Anyway, that was a pleasant surprise. Tried to call CJ twice, unsuccessful both times. Good talking to everyone though. Wow. I bought two bunches of carrots at Migros and we fed them to the bears of Berne. Bought 3 new used books, so I have something to read again. My Name is Achem, Black Like Me and Chesapeake. Boy, that James Michener sure does give a reader their Money’s worth. Very nice.  Already finished the first one. Home for dinner, shower and a little chess. Up for breakfast. Today we attempt to hitch to Grindelwald. Good luck to us. Let you know how it turns out soon. BLF.

Fribourg - 0/1/84
Monday - 9:45 a.m. - We came back off of daylight saving time here at 2 Sunday morning. Also, another bright and sunny day. Forgot a biggy yesterday - Saturday morning Michael (Hans’ son) asked us to leave, so we found a house right next door with a friendly young couple. They gave us keys to the house, lent us bicycles and fed us excellent food. Our ex-host was very nice about everything, it was just a bit much with the mother-in-law there too. We should have figured that out for ourselves probably. Live and learn. Also, I forgot to mention the guys with the whips at the bier Garten in Neumarkt now that I think about it. These guys played their whips to music, and it was just amazing. But, I digress from the point, so - We were able to hitch to Grindelwald and walk about half way up. Then, we got a half price ticket on a 50% discount fare for the ride up the other half. What can I say, every dollar can mean days or weeks more for me. Extra countries can be seen, more people met. But when I end up broke and hungry, the trip will be over. So, we walked all the way down and then hitched back home. We had dinner with our host, a nice cheese and potato fondue. Then bicycled to town to try a call CJ. Failed to reach him 3 more times. Drank a couple of beers at a sidewalk cafe', it was fun. Raced a tram home on the bikes and won. Pie and fruit juice waiting on the table for us when we returned. Played chess with GH, ate the pie, and went to bed. Today, in to town to call CJ, and check for letter, then on to Geneva. Later. BLF.

5:30 p.m. supplement - Had another nice bike ride in to town today. No new mail, but I did get through to CJ. I woke him up at 6 a.m., his time. He invited GH and I to meet and stay with him in Paris. Very nice. Thanks CJ, another vacation from our holiday to look forward to, and probably a great way to see Paris too! I bought a new cigarette rolling machine, to replace the one I lost last week. Then, back to shower and pack. Lunch & good-bye’s. Hitched two and a half hours to get 2 Klicks. Then a ride 28 k or so to Fribourg, then rain. We are on a farm, in a drafty old barn. It is cold enough to see your breath, and very damp since it is pouring torrential amounts of rain. Lots of thunder and lightning. Brrrrr. Wrote to Jill, Bonnie & Ira, Linda, Pete and Mom. Now to relax, eat and figure out how to stay warm and amused. BLF.

Fribourg - 10/1/84
Oversize Postcard Picture is 7 views of Bern -  Linda, Hello, I am in Fribourg in the most typical farm barn you can imagine. I am here because it was the closest place when the rain started. Also because I did not get a ride for the last 2 hours. Anyway, it was really great talking to you on the phone Saturday and I enjoyed it very much. You sound good, and I miss you more all the time. It was also fun talking to your dad again. Sunday I climbed 7,114 feet up Mount Grindelwald and back down. Magnificent view of Mt. Eiger, but I really did my bad knee in. It is still very sore, but as I don't plan any more climbing for awhile, it should get better.  Hope this card arrives by the weekend of the Dead concert so you can share it with Jill. I really enjoyed her letter & the picture of my party and her PS and I show it to everyone. Also enjoyed your letters and the news from Richmond! Looking forward to a tape letter in Paris, my next mail address, But I will be there by 24-25 October to see my brother, so I am afraid it doesn't give you much time to write or tape. Do the best you can. Thanks. Did I mention I got a Skyline Drive card from Pete & Gordon, and one from Randy and Bubba?   I wrote Pete a card with the picture of the Ogre fountain and I told him the navy was like the Ogre and just waiting to eat him up and spit him out. Just kidding, I am sure he will be a captain in 6 months or less. It is still raining, I am still in a barn & I still miss you. So, Kim is back in town huh? Tell her hello and I am glad she enjoyed my going away party. Also, she still owes me a dollar from our bet at Putt Putt golf two years ago. Don't let her corrupt you too much though, or spend all your time watching General Hospital. Glad to hear that Woody at One Eyed Jacks said hello and that Mark was amazed I left Amsterdam. It was nice, but I am amazed he spent so much time there and so little in the other nice places. Also, I will write the tax department soon, but when they finish with the card, you please keep it for my collection. I should have quite a few by now. We went off daylight saving time here a few days ago, and it gets dark quite early now. I got a ride with a Jesus Freak yesterday, and as he was preaching he had a blow out on one of the front tires. It was timed perfectly with a “Praise Jesus” and quite funny I thought. It is now raining VERY hard, getting cold, and nearly dark. I guess I am staying in this barn tonight. I will not have any money for Canada either, but give us a little time and together we can do anything. We will go. Glad you understand the bears of Bern on the last card, are you still seeing the stars at night. I am. The clock tower in this picture is neat. There are mechanical men that chime the bells and dance and lot's of other stuff. Bern & all of Switzerland are very nice. Anyway, as I am running out of room, take care, have fun, don't work too hard, but do well in school. See you when I return (I hope) - Love, Barry
PS- I found out why the Swiss cows wear bells. It keeps them from falling asleep while they eat. Be sure to tell Joe.

Fribourg  - 10/1/84
Postcard Picture is 3 views of Grindelwald - Hello Jill, I must tell you I really enjoyed your last letter very much. Glad you enjoy my PS's, but it will be hard to top yours. I also was thrilled to see all the familiar faces and I look  at the picture a lot. How was the Dead concert? Excellent I suppose. How is school going, have you made more friends? Your room mate sounds nice and I am sure you will carve a place for yourself. Heard you spent some time with Mom-Mom and she was very happy. Call & say hello for me! I have climbed this mountain from the other side and it was fun. Did I tell you I was searched at the border from Italy to Switzerland. The dog was stupid and I was lucky and they were mostly interested in the Yugoslavian's that owned the car. And so on. It was scary. And so on. I miss you. Do you still cry when you miss me? It was funny at the airport. I can't wait to come back and play “house rules” CWO and throw the dice off the table until I can't see anymore. Too bad you can't come to France with CJ, but maybe I will see you in Spain or Israel? In the meantime, good luck at school, do well and stay happy. Next mail in Paris. Write!!! I will be there October 20 through 26 with CJ. Love, Barry.
PS-sorry, no PS this time.

Fribourg  - 10/1/84
Postcard Picture is 5 views of Lousanne-Ouchy  -  Hello Eddie and Mom, it was great talking to you on the phone. Next mailing address is Paris about 25 October, to be sure it is there before CJ leaves on the 27th. It will be great to see him (and to have a hotel for a whole WEEK!!) I will meet him on the 20th. Glad to hear the new car is good. Especially enjoyed your last letter, it was very informative and funny. By the time you get this card, I will already be in France somewhere, but I will sure miss Switzerland. It is very nice. Don't worry about Africa, I just want to sail across Gibraltar and fly to Egypt I think. it is cheaper than sailing from Greece. Sorry I haven't written our NJ cousins, I just write so much, but they will soon get a card. Did Cathy Birdwise get hers? Also wrote to Claude and Norm, do you ever see them? I walked up Grindelwald yesterday and kept thinking about when we were all there. Also about watching the movies of it, and you getting motion sick. Very amusing. 4 hours up, but only 2 down. Not bad as the lift takes 35 minutes. Anyway, take care, Love Barry.
PS - Please tell Mom-Mom and grandmother my next mailing address, as there is so little time.
PPS - Congratulations and my best to Marcy. It wasn't my fault though. I swear it wasn't. I wanted a boy anyway. Very disappointed!

Fribourg - 10/2/84
Tuesday - Time Unknown - The storm is over, and it is now sunny, cold and windy. But sunny, not raining. Slept in the barn listening to cow bells make their kind of beautiful music. I should like to record the sounds of a mountain silence. Rushing wind and water. 1000 distant bells with no rhythm at all, just harmony. The wind in the barn rushing through cracks and crevices, and testing bits of pliant wood and metal.  It was funny though, I woke up and thought I heard a noise, and it was eerie. I started thinking about the Texas Chainsaw Massacres movie for some reason, which probably wasn't a good thing to start thinking about at this particular Moment. But, I had my Swiss army knife handy, fell back asleep and managed to sleep soundly and with no nightmares.  Time to move on down the road today and see what is in store for me. I will miss the little kittens here in our barn. One thing I find interesting is on the back of each sign by the road are 100's of signatures and graffiti from the other hitch hikers. Interesting custom. Not much else for now, until I hit the road again. Ready to press on. BLF.

Geneva  - 10/3/84
Wednesday - 10:00 a.m. - Quick, easy rides yesterday. 2 short ones, and the 3rd all the way to Geneva. Weather was cold and clear. Now it is raining. Anyway, we arrived about 12:30 and found a hotel to drop our packs at. Then walked about the city. Saw a beautiful park with a clock made out of bushes and flowers. In another park, several people statues of people doing everyday kinds of things. Pretty neat. Eventually, back to the Migros near the hotel, stock up on a few groceries and back for the bags. A bus load of Americans pulled up to the hotel while we were lugging off with our packs. They were very tired, and funny. I overheard a lot of bits and pieces of their conversations and just had to laugh.  I stopped and asked one of them where had been that day. She couldn't even remember the name of the country she was now in. They were seeing Europe in 10 days. Wow. I told them I had been at it for awhile too. Nice people. They go home in 3 more days, so they must stay pretty busy. GH and I bought 2 more used books and a Newsweek magazine. Then, the #12 tram to the outskirts of town to search for a house. The city tram stopped at the border, which pretty much runs through town. We walked across the border and 1st try found an excellent house. We did laundry, ate dinner and ended up with our own bedroom inside. The wife works at the UN and we will get to take a tour today. Tomorrow, her friend will drive us to Mt. Blanc, and we are to return here for fondue afterwards. We will probably leave Friday morning. Better get out of bed now and face the rain of another day. Later. BLF.

Geneva - 10/3/84
Wednesday - Evening supplement - Driven in to town by Michele, straight to the art and history museums. Excellent and free. Then to the United Nations to tour. Boring. Just like DC and all the federal government stuff at home. For me anyway. Sent cards to Kerry and Mom -Mom. back home for cheese fondue. We bought a bottle of wine for our new hosts. Finished with CH (Switzerland), and now it is F (France) for the next month or so. Later. BLF.

Geneva - 10/3/84
Postcard Picture is Life imitating art statues in Rond-Point De Plainpalais - Hello Kerry, how is everything there? I am fine and just thinking of you so I thought I would write and say hello. Hello! Things are, as always, very interesting here. I am in France at the Moment, but only 10 minutes from Switzerland on the other side of Geneva. Today I will take a tour of the UN office here. Should be nice. After Geneva today, I will head south through France, then west and north & finally to Paris. After 3 or 4 weeks in France, I will continue to Italy and Greece. Maybe see Istanbul, in Turkey. Then Spain. From the south of Spain I will sail across Gibraltar and in to Africa. Anyway, I miss everyone there, my sister sent a photo of you all from the night before I left. It was great to see some familiar faces, especially yours. Are you keeping Alan out of trouble? Are you still relieving him of unnecessary money at Wednesday night poker games? I am listening to a neat pirate song on the radio, it is really funny. Anyway, I am off to see Geneva again, so till I write again, take care, say hello to everyone and have a drink or 2 for me. Your friend, Barry.

Geneva - 10/5/84
Friday - 10:00 a.m. - Up at 8 yesterday for Nicole (friend of our hosts) to pick us up and drive us to see Mount Blanc. We drove around all day. it rained all day. We enjoyed Chamonix and several of the other small towns we visited. Pizza for lunch. We saw a car fall off a cliff in front of us and fall at least 50 feet down to the river. No one was seriously hurt. Very nice. Met MaryJoe’s parents in their butcher shop. Thanks for a great day Nicole. Home for a modest dinner. GH gave me a haircut. Wrote cards to Mom and Linda and Maryjoe is going to stamp and send them from the UN Not much else for now at least. It is cold and overcast, but not raining. Later. BLF.

Geneva - 10/5/84
Postcard France Picture is 3 views of Mont Blanc - Dear Mom & Eddie, Hello from France, as always I am fine and having a great time. The stamp on this post card is from the United Nations in Geneva and is rather unique. They are considered independent, and have their own stamps. I took a tour of the Geneva headquarters, because my host  here works there. It was very interesting. Today, I saw Mont Blanc, over 15,000 feet high, it is the tallest mountain in Europe. The weather was not so good though, and the view could have been a bit better. Looking forward to seeing CJ soon, and getting very excited. I have finished Switzerland and begun France now and plan on 4 or 5 weeks in France. Then Italy for 3 or 4 weeks. This is a very nice area, and so far the French people have been exceptionally kind & generous. It is a great place. I wrote to cousins Bonnie, Ira and family, and bet you hear from them soon. The rest of what I said is a surprise. From here I am going to Lyon and Grenoble. Then west towards Brittany and Normandy and Paris and most points between. Say hello to all, Love, Barry.
PS- My 1st French meal was excellent! Cheese fondue from a most generous host family.

Geneva - 10/5/84
Postcard Picture is The Ice Castle in Chamonix at Mont Blanc - Bon Jour Linda, I am finally in France. Tomorrow you see the Grateful Dead. Say hello to Jill. I finished Switzerland yesterday with a tour of the United Nations in Geneva. (Note the stamp, it is not Swiss or French) Today I went near the town of Chamonix. I saw Mt. Blanc also, which is the tallest mountain in all of Europe at 15,000+ feet. The weather was very bad, but I could still see all right sort of. Anyway, I also saw “Les Gorgeos Du Pont Du Diable” or the gorge of the devil, and that was pretty neat too. Sorry, but I could not find an affordable Swiss watch for you. Hope you like what I sent instead. Anyway, it should be there in about 4 weeks. Tell Joe the cow bells in Switzerland, they make the cows wear them so they don't fall asleep while they are eating. At least, that is what all the farmers claim. My first meal in France was with a host family. We had cheese fondue and it was great. I really made a pig of myself and ate like it was a Cimerron Rose happy hour. But, oh-la-la, it was good. Wish you were here, I miss you. Did Mikey get my card? Is he gone yet? Have you rescued my coat and salvageable stuff from Pete? Is he going to get kicked out of his apartment and land in the street again with nothing? Anyway, have fun, do well in school and don't work too hard. Say hello to everyone and after you do all of that take a nap and dream pleasant dreams. Have a nice day today, love, Barry.

Lyon - 10/7/84
Saturday - 11:30 p.m. - Hitched to Lyon Friday in the rain. One ride, all the way. He let us off on the shoulder of the autobahn on the outskirts of town, in the rain. We knocked on many doors. Finally found a Jewish house, and they let us stay. It was Yom Kippur and I got to light a candle for my dad, along with their family.  It made me feel good. It are coincidences like this that can sometimes make you wonder. They speak Hebrew and Yiddish, but no English. Wish I had paid attention in Sunday school instead of being such a wise guy. We had supper, and then they turned off the electricity for the whole house and prepared for the holiday fast. (fast as in diet of no food, not quickly). Then went with them to the synagogue. I went to town this morning and went to the art gallery (Huge and very impressive) and then we took a nice walk around town. Bought a bottle of wine for our hosts and came back to break the fast with them. Excellent meal followed by several good games of chess. I won them all. I guess I am learning this game. Later. BLF.

Dijon - 10/8/84
Monday - 11:00 a.m. - Fair and cold, that is the weather report. Enjoyed our stay in Lyon, but left yesterday for destination unknown. Our plan was wherever we got a ride to. We received gifts of food from our hosts before we left. Very nice. Hitched and got a short ride with a lady very quickly. Then a ride with three men who made me nervous, I am not sure why, but we got out at the first town we passed. Then a ride with one man who left us off at a fork in the autobahn. Five minutes later the police took us away in their van and told us to stay off the road. They were going to give us a ticket, or take us in, but we stubbornly refused to understand them. We know longer spoke or understood any French at all, and they spoke very little English. I enjoyed that opportunity, but now we had to walk 3 or 4 Klicks to get to a half decent place to catch another lift. Finally, about 6 we got a ride to Dijon, and here we are. Found a garden, and after we put up the tent, they invited us to sleep inside. I took the tent back down. They invited us to join them for dinner. We ate (and enjoyed) a 5 course dinner with the family, plus dessert! Umm Umm good. I like France. Two games of chess with the father.  He is a pharmacist, actually a research professor of Pharmacology. Each of us won one game. I would have won both, but I got bored because he played rather slowly and I made a rather stupid and obvious error. Downstairs, to bed where I could read my book under lights, (not stars or flashlights - no candles allowed in the tent) before I fell asleep. Now it is time to see Dijon. My knee is much better, but now my ears are bothering me. They have gotten very dry and flaky and itchy. I must fix them. Maybe our host can help? Not much else for now. later. BLF.

Dijon - 10/9/84
Tuesday - 9:30 a.m. - Cloudy and cool. I forgot to mention a compliment we received. When we first arrived here our host was unshaven and one of the first things he asked us was how we managed to stay so clean. In fact, at the Moment we were probably in better shape than him. It made me feel really good. We have been successful at finding a bath or shower somehow almost every single day. Anyway, off to town yesterday and wandered around in search of a grocery store and a photo shop to develop some of GH's film. We went to the museum of fine arts, 2nd only to the Louvre in Paris they tell me. It was OK and we managed to avoid the 10 Franc charge ( one French Franc = about .11 cents U.S.) Very Nice, there is an extra day for us now, tacked on to the end of our trip.  Then we wandered around town some more. Found a PTT office and I bought 10 French stamps for postcards.  I also bought one stamp with just enough postage to drop a card to Austria. I will write our friends in Graz and ask them to make a claim on the package we mailed there, as it arrived missing several items. Also wrote Linda and Mom. Saw a park and fed some swans, visited several beautiful churches, one a church of Notre Dame.  This town is much like Paris in miniature I imagine.  It even has a small Arc De Triumph. Played some chess in a hotel cafe' and won 3 games of 3. Almost stole some wine as they left their cellar open, but just couldn't do it. Walked around some more in a slight rain, very pretty city. There is much to see and do all over town. Then back. We were fed a wonderful quiche along with soup, salad, cheese etc. 2 games of chess and 2 bottles of wine. Very nice. I like this host family. I can understand a little more French now, and speak “un petite pu” (a little bit). Actually, very little. But I did well enough to ask directions to a supermarket. Gillians pictures came out very well and everyone here looked through them last night with great interest. It brought back many nice memories. I want copies of some of them. One observation: all the cars here use yellow headlights instead of white ones. Also, instead of alphabetic city codes on the registration plates, they use a numbering system that makes it very difficult for a hitch hiker to figure out where a car is likely to be coming from or going to. Oh well, today we hope to see a mustard factory and a vineyard. Later. BLF.

Dijon - 10/9/84
Tuesday - 6:00 p.m. - Evening Supplement - After a shower and coffee we found out that it was entirely impossible to tour the mustard factory. We decided to head for vineyards in Beaune instead. A lady gave us directions that were wrong and we walked nearly 10 k trying to get to a road that turned out to be no more than one Klick from here.  We decided to bag the vineyard tour, and went to Mammoth supermarket. Bought food, wine and beer, then hitched home. Wrote Graz about the package that arrived missing things and wrote Aunt Marta. I have a new theory for speaking French. Use an accent, put a la or a le before most words and talk like a donkey. It seems to be effective. Later. BLF.

Dijon - 10/9/84
Postcard Picture is 7 views of Dijon - Hello Eddie & Mom, France is very nice and I am still looking forward to meeting CJ. All roads in France lead to Paris, it is amazing. I went to an art museum today that is just slightly smaller than the Louvre. Dijon is very neat. They make Dijon mustard and it is the capital of the Burgundy region. They make 40 million bottles of wine a year. Needless to say, there are many vineyards and wine is very cheap. In Lyon I spent the weekend with a Jewish family. It just happened to be Yom Kippur and I lit a candle for dad. They were very nice people, wish I could speak Hebrew or Yiddish. We broke the fast together and had a very good time. I am getting quite good at chess, and beat everyone I have played so far. Perhaps you can learn how to play, and practice, so I can beat you when I get back.  The dollar is slipping a little at a time and I think very soon I will convert most of my dollars to Swiss Francs or English pounds sterling. Every little bit helps, and I think even after the small commissions I will come out way ahead when the dollar goes back where it belongs. Anyway, say hello to everyone and take care, Love, Barry.
PS - Have you heard from the NJ clan since I wrote?
PPS - Do you ever thank the mailman for giving you all these postcards? Does he read them? Or does he just think you have friends that live all over Europe? I'll have to ask him when I return.
PPPS- French postage stamps taste funny.

Dijon - 10/9/84
Postcard Picture is 6 views of Notre Dame in Dijon - Hello Linda, (Bon Jour). My French is pathetic but I pick up a little every day. Check out the gargoyles in the picture. Dijon is a neat town, they make the famous Dijon mustard as well as 40 million bottles of wine a year. An average bottle in the store, red, white or pink costs about 99 cents, but if you splurge, for about $2.50 you can get pretty decent wine. Food here is excellent or better. Having very good luck lately, it is getting rather cold, so most people invite me inside to sleep. I haven’t used the tent in about 2 weeks or maybe more. Also, generous with food and stuff. I washed my clothes in Lyon and my sweater stretched to about the size of the tent, so I guess I might have to buy a new one. I am becoming an excellent chess player and beat all (most) of the people I play. Better tell Pete and Gordon to learn, it is much better than Melee once you get in to it. France is just like I imagined it would be. They refuse to speak English, everyone walks around with a long loaf of French bread and they all talk through their noses. There are very many art galleries, and tons of vineyards. I eat lots of “hot” grapes that I “find” in or near vineyards.  But, they are harvesting them all now, so I guess that trick wont last much longer now. All roads in France lead to Paris. But hitch hiking is mediocre at best, and the Gendarme (Police) have caught me twice on the highways illegally hitching. But no fines yet. Most things are pretty cheap, but the dollar is starting to slip, and before long I will trade in all my dollars for Swiss francs or English pounds sterling. Both are very stable and I am certain the dollar will fall right around the time of the election. I love and miss you, say hello to everyone and thank the postman for delivering my cards. I wonder if he reads them? Love, Barry.

Dijon - 10/9/84
Postcard Picture is 7 views of Dijon - Hello Aunt Marta, or shall I say “Bon Jour”. France is really nice and as everyone knows, the food is truly excellent. It is very quickly turning to winter again, as I suspect it is there as well. If you feel the way I do about this, you will rendezvous   with me in the south of Spain or Italy in about a month or so. It ought to be better than Florida anyway. If you don't mind, bring grandmother along with you, but do not waste the air fare on #3 as I would just send him home if  he came with my ladies! Say hello to him though, for me, and remind him to stay out of trouble. Take care of yourself and give my regards to all. Then have a couple of beers for me  (PLEASE).  Love, Barry.

Dijon - 10/10/84
Wednesday - 11:00 a.m. - Cool and clear. After yesterdays little march, we came home and I rolled a new box of cigarettes and drank a beer. Then, a nice dinner followed by chess games and lot's of beer and wine. They thanked us for staying and said they enjoyed it. Very nice. Yay. Thank YOU. Sleep, shower, breakfast, pack. Onward now, later. BLF.

Auxerre - 10/11/84
Thursday - 12 Noon - Nice weather, but very cloudy. Hitched to Vezelay yesterday, nice basilica. A very old, very small town surrounded by Roman ruins and open countryside. No traffic to hitch out so we walked for 5 K's to the next town and got a ride after awhile. Found a garden very easily and pitched the tent. Walked to town and met a group of young students who were very friendly. We drank a beer, played some chess. Then home to eat a smoked mackerel and some bread and cheese. Then sleep. Move towards Orleans today I hope! Later. BLF.

Orleans - 10/12/84
Friday - 11:00 a.m. - Cloudy, but warm and dry so far. Walked across Auxerre to the road for Paris. 1st ride took us to a small road towards Orleans, almost as far away as where we started from, but at least I could listen to Pink Floyd “Wish You Were Here” on the way. Very Nice. Had a headache most all day, but we got rides without too much trouble all day long. France is not exactly a hitch hikers paradise, but one can usually get there sooner or later. Our last ride in to Orleans brought us to a car service garage just outside of town and asked his friend if we could put our tent here. They are very nice people and gave me an aspirin, let us use the toilette, etc.  and keep our bags inside. We set up camp, then walked to town and found a cheap restaurant. Ate steak and french fries, and the waiter was very friendly. He gave us extra food and an address to find a friend of his in Greece. We left a nice tip. Played a few games of chess and came home for an early night. Lot's of statues of Joan of Arc, all over town. I believe she must have lived here. Trivia question: The metric system originated in France, it is exactly 1,000 K's from Dunkirk to South Border, and that is where kilometers come from. Time for coffee and to break camp. Later. BLF.

Orleans - 10/12/84
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Orleans - Department of Taxation, Hello Linda, Griselda, Mickie, Walter and all the rest of you! France is very nice, lots to see and do. Prices here are quite reasonable and many things are dirt cheap. The Gypsy life has been treating me rather well, but I do sometimes miss all the small comforts of home. The food in France is excellent, and on almost every block a patisserie (or bakery) with the most fantastic sweets, chocolates, pies, cookies, etc. From here I will go to Le Mans, Britannia, Normandy, Paris and more of France. Then Italy, Greece, a little bit of Turkey, probably just Istanbul. Then I head for sunny Spain, where I will be sure to mail you more post cards!! Then I sail across Gibraltar to Morocco, Tunisia, etc. As it is probably getting cold there by now, just think of sunny beaches and endless summers, write to me sometime and tell me what’s going on there. I must be “going to work” now, it is not easy being a professional tourist, but my thoughts are often with all of you there. I am going to dress up as “The Beef” for Halloween in France and scare all the little kids and try my luck at trick or treating maybe, if they have a Halloween here. Guess I will find out.  Please give this card to Linda when you are all finished with it so she can add it to my collection. Take care and stay well - your friend, Barry.
PS - If you don't get this card, it is probably our friend Tom in the mail room who has lost it!!

Orleans - 10/12/84
Postcard Picture is 3 views of Vezelay - Dear Grandma Simmie, Hello! I am in France as you can see from this card. They do not speak as much English here as they do in other places, but I mange to get along OK. Many wonderful sights, excellent art museums and the best food in the world. Or at least the best I have managed to find. I am still healthy and sticking to budget. France is rather easy for low budget travel. I meet CJ in one week in Paris, should be very nice. After France, I go to Italy and Greece, then Spain, Tunisia, Egypt and Israel. Say hello to Bob and Nat, as well as Gary, Eddie, Mom, etc. Take care of yourself and I will see you when I return, to tell you all the details. Anyway, still having a great time, weather is OK and money is holding out. Love, your grandson, Barry.

Orleans  - 10/13/84
Saturday - 11:00 a.m. -  Sunny today. Yesterday we slept in, then dried the tent and set it up for the night, as the garage closes at 7 p.m. Then in to town, visit the TI for map and suggestions. Bought postcard, one to grandmother, one to tax department & Linda. Sent them from the PTT, then to see the house of Joan of Arc. Then, back across the river to enjoy the sun in the botanical gardens. Played chess, walked around and read Fedor  Dostoevski “The Devils” till 6. Getting dark and cold, so back to town for groceries. We bought two loaves of bread, some turkey, some milk. In many of the markets, they sell rabbits and birds etc. with skin and feathers and head (eyes staring blankly) all still attached. Kind of unbelievable, but they say it is because otherwise, how would you KNOW what you are getting? Good point I guess, but then again, do you really need to know? either it is good or not. If it is good, so what if it is a, oh well maybe not. Never mind. We ate our dinner in a park. After dinner, I bought a new bag of Tobacco, and then we went to the Renaissance Bar to nurse a beer, play chess and read my book. Met some young people returning from Amsterdam. They bought me a beer and gave me a small gift. Then, on the way home a car stopped, and it was the owners of the service station, returning from Paris. They gave us a ride, dropped us back at the garage. It was cold last night, but snug and warm in the sleeping bag. Getting out of it is another story when it is cold. Today, we head for Le Mans. Later. BLF.

Charge - 10/14/84
Sunday - 10:15 a.m. - Cold, sunny and clear - Hitched out of Orleans after drying the tent and getting dropped at a good hitch site by the owner of the garage. Decided to ride along the Loire river and see some of the chateaux towns. Chamborg, Blois & Amboise yesterday. Very nice. Ended up knocking on doors in Amboise and meeting nice people from another town. They took us in their home in Charge. Shower, dinner, bed and breakfast. Today, the caves, vineyards and more chateaux towns. Later, BLF.

Sunday - Evening Supplement - Went to wine cave with Jane' & Froncois, then the chateaux Ambois. Then, to her mothers house (where we met last night) for a nice lunch. The mother drove us to chateaux Chenonceaux where there is a 16 F charge to see the gardens, grounds and castle which is built as a bridge spanning the river. I asked an English couple at the exit for their used billets, and we used those to get in. Super slick. Later, BLF.

Charge - 10/14/84
Postcard Picture is  Chambord 29 Val De Loire - Hello Linda, Cal & Joan, how is everything there? I, as always, am fine. My knee is bothering me, but I think it is getting better. This castle, or rather, this chateaux is on the Loire river. From Orleans to Le Mans there are 12 or more of these places, mostly built as summer homes and hunting grounds. I have spent about 2 days following the river and visiting, and they are all very nice. The weather has been very nice too, with warm sunny afternoons, but it is really getting cold at night. Did you get the card I sent to the Tax department? Thinking about Mikey, he leaves for the navy tomorrow I guess, but it doesn't matter as he will be gone when you get this. Is school going well? Work? Has Alan Herman or anyone sold any test tubes? The kitchen set is very nice, perhaps we should sell those. Anyway, I miss you all very much! Did Jill come to the concert with you and is she doing well in school? CJ will be in Paris in one week and I will stay in his hotel with him. Very nice. I think I will enjoy Paris. All the roads in France lead there, and everyone is always talking about Paris, so it must be good. Have the gifts arrived from Switzerland yet? They should be there very soon. Take care all, stay well, Love, Barry.
PS - I will go to a bakery today and eat something fattening for each of you! Hope you appreciate my sacrifice.
PPS- I went to a wine cave for a tour, drank some good Rose'. Bought 2 bottles afterward for a total of $1.50!! Good deal.

Charge - 10/14/84
Postcard Picture is Les Merveilles Du Val De Loire - Dear Mom & Eddie, Bon Jour. How is everything there? Is Suzy the wonder cat still on good terms with everyone? I have been following the river Loire for 2 days from Orleans to Le Mans and visiting all the magnificent chateaux along the way. There are over 12 in about 150 kilometers. I like France a lot and am sure if I can get CJ out of the Louvre he will love it too. Just kidding, but I do sometimes think he will spend most of his week in the art museums. They are good. Really looking forward to seeing him and I am getting information on good things to see and do near Paris. I stayed with a pharmacist and his family near Dijon and they were very nice. He and I would drink wine and play chess every night, and he reminded me of Eddie just a bit.  You two and Jill would go crazy in the French bakeries, oh la la, such good stuff. From the croissants, to the tarts, chocolates and confections right down to the excellent French bread. There are so many, it is very tempting. Anyway, say hello to everyone. By the time you get this, CJ will be here. Thanks for the maps Eddie. Take Care, Love, Barry.

Le Mans - 10/15/84
Monday - Time Unknown - Clear and sunny - Yesterday, after leaving Chenonceaux we got a ride with a punk rock couple from Tours. A really goofy lady from California who was also hitching, jumped in to the car and rode with us also. She was just goofy, and got on everyone’s nerves quickly. Anyway, our ride took us through Tours and to the road for Le Mans. Beautiful red, orange and purple sunset. Arrived in the dark, around 7:30 and found a nice house first try. Invited in to eat. We had omelets, fruit, cheese, wine etc. Then he drove us around for a quick tour of Le Mans, including the race track, about half of it is normal public streets (when they are not racing). Saw the pits, grandstands, etc. Home to play him some chess. Pissed at GH, she has been kind of bitchy the last few days. Nothing else much now. I have arranged a tour for us  at the Renault factory tomorrow, should be fun. Later. BLF.

Le Mans - 10/15/84
Monday - 7:45 p.m. - beautiful day today. Still in Le Mans, with the same wonderful hosts. Up about 9:30 this morning for cafe au’lait, made with real milk. Breakfast was typical, with bread, jam and cheese. Tent was very wet, hung it out to dry. The weather here is funny. About sunset a mist rises up from the ground to about 2 or 3 feet in height. In the morning, the weather looks cloudy, but about 11 the sun burns off the mist and bright, warm weather bursts forth. Until sunset. It has been like this for the last 5 days. The sky is very clear at night with awesome, colorful sunsets, lot's of stars and right now a full moon that provides plenty of light for me to read outside the tent.  Today, we went to the auto club museum at Trac Le Mans 24 hour race. Saw steam, electric and oil cars - old and new, plus race cars that have won the big event. Bought a post card for Dale of a steam powered motor bike. Our host drove us here at lunch, and we got in for free, which surely added to the Moment. Later, we stole a bus ride back to town, but got worried about inspectors and got off after just 5 stops. Long walk the rest of the way, but we have the time. The old town here is magnificent. It is not overly commercialized It remains to most outward appearances anyway, untouched and unspoiled. Lot's of narrow passages, cobblestone, stone steps, etc. Lot's of butchers, and bakers and candle stick maker type shops. Nice pedestrian area. The rest of the town is the pits. I found a shop that sells only art and comic books. There was a lot of mags there that reminded me of Hunter Jackson's work. Post cards were 5 francs. Oh, just remembered - at the auto museum one of the best cars is the winner of the first Le Mans race. Steam powered, it is capable of only 60 k/hr. The other interesting one was Hitler’s personal vehicle, a fully armored Mercedes. Anyway, just walked around town most of the afternoon. Saw a bowling alley (haven’t seen many of those in Europe), but my knee hurts too much to play. I also tried to buy a foam mattress today, and failed again. I must have missed the season as all the camping sections in the sport stores have disappeared in place of ski stuff mostly. Wrote and mailed Dales card. Not much else for now. Later. B4.
PS- Almost forgot the most important part, went to the Palaise De Justice and saw the jail. Also, sat in on and watched some trial by juries. The lawyers all wear robes and the jury is made up of all lawyers. Fun for a couple of hours anyway. Dinner was just now, and very good. Hosts nephew and aunt stopped by to meet us. Lot's of talk, wine and laughter. Very nice. BLF.

Pipriac - 10/16/84
Tuesday - 8:00 p.m. - Up at 8 this morning for the tour of Renault. Our host drove us there, but the tour was delayed 30 minutes. Shitty guide, Shitty tour, no freebies either. We mostly saw tractors. Walked back, showered and cleaned up. Packed, then our host drove us to a good spot on a good road to hitch from. Very nice. Before leaving, he gave us a 100 franc note as a gift. Very Nice. Thank you. 5 or 6 rides. The police stopped us and checked our pass ports again. I think they do it for OUR protection. I think they are tracking our movements, or at least building a record of them. Just a guess. Later, there was a ditch by the side of the road and I saw undies, bra, T-shirt and shorts. I thought it was strange for a complete outfit to be in the ditch, and nothing else. A cop passed, and we flagged him down and showed him. Thought it might be related to the missing Belgian girls that have been in the news. Anyway, enough of that, but an interesting Police day. Our last ride today let us off in a TINY village and here we are in the Kantarbrau Bar. Changing our plans and heading towards Paris to be sure and get there by Friday to meet CJ. Later. BLF.

Le Mans - 10/16/84
Postcard Picture is a steam powered motorcycle - Hello Dale (& Tommy, Pete, Linda, Joe, Hunter, etc.) Aren't you glad this is not another of those “Party Puzzle” cards? Say hello to them anyway, for me, if you happen to see any of the above. Anyway, all the data above, on the bike in the picture doesn't leave me much room, but as you can see it is a steam motor bike. I bought it at the automobile museum at Le Mans. Great old cars, bikes and race cars. Steam, electric and oil, including Hitler’s personal, armored Mercedes. The bike is making a fortune in post card royalties I hear. Part of the main race track is open to the public, part in fact, is even on the public streets. You can drive about 1/2 of it this way, and my host here took me there and let me drive his pickup around this part of the track. It was pretty neat. Well, it is two hours later than when I started this card, but I might as well finish. Just ate a huge, free, dinner. Wine, & lots of fun. Tomorrow, I get up early to visit the Renault factory for a tour. By the time you get this, I will be in Paris, so have a drink for/with me. Take care, enjoy the canoe trips and don't work too hard. Barry.
PS- I have taped on a piece of the pamphlet from Le Mans. Did it get there with this card?

Pipriac - 10/17/84
Wednesday - 12 Noon - This has got to be the friendliest little town We have ever seen. 1st garden let us set up tent and leave bags. Fed us coffee and cake, then we walked a few 100 meters to see the village. We bought a bottle of Riesling wine. Then, saw a nice quiet bar ( The Kantarbrau) and walked in to write the last entry. I ordered a beer and received a Heineken. After writing in the journal, I rolled a few ciggs, had another draft. Then Gerard, the manager of the bar invited us to play pool. We played a French game where you get one side of the table and play for points. Drank a bottle of wine. Then Pascal, the gourmet frozen food salesman invited us to eat and gave us a menu. He had a whole TRUCK full of frozen gourmet food. We ended up drinking 2 or 3 more bottles of wine and eating a 5 course, that is 5 hot dishes, followed by a wonderful ice cream cake for dessert. WOW. Snails, clams, scallops, beef, pork, cheese, bread. We didn't get home to sleep until 5:30 this morning. We never did get a bill for our drinks, and they meal was gratis. They begged us to come back tonight and stay around for a few days. Then, when we got up this morning and our host family had already gone to work, the next door neighbors invited us in for breakfast and bathroom privileges. What a nice little town. Very nice. It reminds me of what someone said to us, that we are traveling the old fashioned way. Which is true to some extent, but it seems to bring out the “old fashion” in lot's of the people we meet as well. I like the small villages and towns. I will have to try and stay in them more often. And on purpose, occasionally. Excellent night. Later. BLF.

Vennes - 10/17/84
Wednesday - 7:30 p.m. - Evening Supplement - Left Pipriac with some regrets, wish there were more to see or do there. So our host drove us 11 Klicks or so along the way to Carnac. 2 short rides, and then a ride to Auray  with an insurance agent who passed us yesterday, and so decided to give us a lift today when he saw us. He has a friend from Christchurch named Warren Taylor who lives in Rennes now. Got a final ride today with another insurance agent who was going to Quiberon, but took us to Carnac to see the upright stones too. Row after row after row of them. Pretty impressive, a bit like Stonehenge. Then drove to the tip of the peninsula. Part of it is only 50 meters wide or so, at the very end. Walked the beach here on the wrong side of the Atlantic. Water was warm. Bought a postcard and walked around for an hour. Then met our ride again, who took us on to Vennes. We are very near a divided highway now, to Rennes and Paris. So I feel better about being in Paris on time. Also, got a quick car tour through the walled city of Vennes. Impressive. Now we are in the sub suburbs, the tent is pitched and our ride/host is very nice. But his wife is, or must be afraid of us, as the metal security covers have sealed in all the windows, the doors are locked tight, and we were never invited in for even coffee or anything.  He did come out with coffee and cookies though. Very nice. Not much else for now. BLF.

Pipriac - 10/18/84
Postcard Picture is 6 views of Quiberon - Hello Linda, from Britannia, France. Miss you very much, but still having much to do. I was staying in Pipriac, a tiny village of 350 because I couldn't get a ride and it got dark. So I set up tent and went to a bar. They were so excited to have an American that I never bought a drink. They made me a huge 4 course meal, escargot, scallops, clams, beef, cheese and dessert. And we drank till about 5 in the morning. The French wine is great. I like the small towns, the people are unbelievable. Yesterday I went to Carnac, Vennes and here. Today it is raining and I head towards Paris. Hope the tax department enjoyed the card. I have to go now as my host is going to work, but I will write again soon. Love, Barry.   PS - Bet the Eiffel tower at Kings Dominion is better than this one.

Vennes - 10/18/84
Thursday - 8:30 a.m. - Played chess and backgammon until 9, then it was just too cold to  play anymore, so we went to sleep. The wind was unbelievably strong and it began raining. As I lay in the tent I had a good idea. A conversion to make my little tent stake less. The advantage of this would be added versatility on rocky ground and quicker setup/breakdown. It would also be cleaner, as the stakes are always dirty, and it is a pain keeping them clean. Basically, one would only need a couple extra shock cord poles to stretch the perimeter. Not much else for now. Later. BLF.
PS, also had an idea on how to sell the 10,000 + remaining test tubes I own in Richmond. I will write a card to Cal Cowan and see what he thinks.

La Ferte Bernard - 10/18/84
France Thursday - 8:45 p.m. - We were rushed away this morning while the tent was still wet because our host had to go to work, and I don’t think his wife would let him let us wait till our gear dried. We got a good, easy ride 100 K's to Rennes. Then 5 hours with no ride. Did get our tent dry. Then, 2 short rides, then 3 hours in an 18 wheeler. Here we are. One thing I am tired of is that it seems every time I buy stamps, the postal clerk can never get the proper, inexpensive postcard ones, only the letter rate stamps. Later. BLF.

La Ferte Bernard - 10/19/84
Friday - Time Unknown - Drank 3 beers in a cafe' last night, then home to sleep. Woke up to rain and lots of water in the tent. The packs were also outside, and soaking on the ground where our hosts set them before leaving for work.  We saw a small farm across the way. We went over and explained our situation.  They lit a nice fire in a small barn, and we strung a line. Bags, tent, clothes and packs are now drying. We have had a shower and a meal with these nice people, and they have phoned the radio station to try and get us a ride to Paris. I have only 15 francs left, and so am going to walk to town and cash a travelers check. What a day so far. Later. BLF.

Evening Supplement - 9:45 p.m. - The fire is still stoked up, and it is comfortably hot in here. Everything is finally dry, we are well fed and clean. We have decided to stay the night right here due to last nights disaster and the continuing rain all day. We will get up early and start hitching by 7 or so (rain or shine) to get to Paris. If no luck by 10:30 or 11, we will just take the train. I walked to town and checked the train schedule, so we could still make it if we need to. I changed a $100 worth of checks @ 9.28 and no commission. Tres bien. Bought 2 bottles of Bordeaux,  one for our hosts and one for CJ. I bought stamps and mailed cards and rang home collect - signal wise. Didn't accept, so I assume no change of plans on CJ. Took an afternoon nap by the fireplace. Played some chess. Big dinner & CWO till now. Packed pretty much and ready to leave in the morning, except for the sleeping bags.  Later. BLF.

Aboard A Train - 10/20/84
Saturday - 11:30 a.m. - I am sitting upstairs on a double decker, high speed train en route to Paris, just beyond Chartres now. Up before 7 this morning, and left after breakfast by 7:45. No ride stopped. We even tried the Gillian hitches, Barry hides for awhile and no results. Then hitching with a 50 franc note out. Still nothing.  Came to the gare' and took the 10:45, we should arrive by 12:45 on this bullet. Plenty of time, no problems to meet CJ at a reasonable hour. Later. BLF.

Paris - 10/21/84
Sunday - 9:30 a.m. - CJ has recovered from his jet lag very nicely. Yesterday, we met at the hotel about 1:30 and talked in the lobby as he had not yet been checked in to a room. We took him to a patisserie for a croissant. Back to the hotel so he could check in. Then GH and I went to the shop that allowed us to leave our bags, so we could pick them up and get them to the hotel. Then, we all went to a cafe'  where I had a beer, they had some wine and we all had omelets. Then, back so we could pick up our city maps, and we took a long circular walk. Stopped  for a drink and a game of chess with GH, saw a bit of the red light district. Back by 9 as CJ was exhausted. I read awhile while they both slept. Nice weather in Paris today. Perhaps, just a bit chilly. Now we are off to explore Paris. Later. BLF.

Sunday - evening supplement - 1:00 a.m. - Good day today. Went to a huge Sunday flea market in the streets. CJ bought a flute whistle and a paperweight with the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe that snows when you shake it. Stayed at the market maybe 2 or 3 hours, then went to Sacre-Coeur  , which I thought was a mediocre basilica in a GREAT location. It started to rain, so we went in and prayed for some sun. Went out, and it was beautiful again. Kind of makes you wonder. We walked through the artist square, Montmartre. Then down the hill to Pigalle, which was big, but not especially seedy. Then back to the hotel so CJ could get his tacky Hawaiian tourist shirt, so we could go to the Eiffel Tower and take his picture flossing.  The tower was impressive, but it was surprisingly, just like the replica at Kings Dominion near Richmond, only it was bigger. And it was tacky brown, instead of the tacky green color the replica is painted. Got the picture of CJ flossing his teeth. Almost ate in the restaurant in the tower, but it was closed. There was a meeting of the American Democratic Party. We walked around town a little. Found a little Brasserie & Restaurant and had a pretty lousy dinner. GH & I had duck, CJ had lamb. Then we went to the Latin quarter and found (finally) pedestrian streets. Lot's of food, bars, etc. Drank a Newcastle Brown Ale. Then went to another bar, played chess and had a couple more beers. Caught the last train home. Not much else now. BLF.

Paris - 10/22/84
Monday - 1:30 a.m. - Good day. Up at 9:30 and breakfast at Monoprix of patisserie and coffee. Then the Louvre, where we  (read - CJ) hired a private guide to show us the major sights. He was a major shit, but I enjoyed it anyway. Then, I found a laundry shop with coin machines and did my clothes and wrote cards to Linda, Mom and also one for CJ, so he will have one from me when he gets back home next week. Should be a nice little surprise. Oh yeah, started at AMEX. I got 2 letters from Linda and GH got a letter from London that she does NOT have any cancer. I guess she will not be as tense now that she won't have to worry. After laundry, I came back and showered and put on nice clean clothes, shaved etc. CJ returned shortly, and we all went out to an excellent restaurant called  Sergeant Recruiter and it was great. Endless wine, endless food and very friendly service. Then walked old Paris. Saw the prison Bastille and Notre Dame Cathedral. Then to Harry's New York Bar which was expensive, but OK. We sat by the piano player. CJ and Gillian swore he was psychotic, but I don't think he was. Finally, home. CJ broke down and called Mom for the football scores and we all got to say hello. I think Mom was a bit flustered and  caught off guard by the call, but it was nice. Not much else. Now it is Tuesday already and the weather is beautiful. Should be a nice day. Sleep now. Later, BLF.

Paris - 10/22/84
Postcard Picture is the Venus de Milo - Hello Eddie & Harriet, Paris is great and even better because CJ is here. I am staying with him and we are having a great time. He is overly generous and I feel bad about all the money he is spending on me, but I am enjoying it anyway. The only problem is, he can't get the score from yesterdays Redskins game. We went to the Louvre, and hired a private guide. The guide was pretty bad, but just being there made CJ about the happiest person in the world. It was good to get your letter, and CJ is catching me up on all the latest news from home.  That is good too. We have seen a lot already, but it is a shame he has only one week here, there is so little time to see so much. Anyway, things here are great. The tables have turned, last time you were here and we were at home. Hope you had as much fun as we are having now. Might call if CJ really wants the football score badly enough, we will see. Anyway, take care and do not work too hard. I will write again soon, but for now, as always, all is well. Love, Barry.

Paris - 10/22/84
Postcard France Picture is Leonardo Da Vinci “La Joconde” (Mona Lisa) - Hello Linda, guess where I am? The Louvre is huge, even bigger than can be described. CJ and I climbed (and rode) up the Eiffel tower for you. I kept remembering our visit to Kings Dominion. The tower here is OK, but it was better there with you. I was impressed with your French on the two letters I have gotten so far. Sure I will  get more before 29 October when I leave Paris. I will try and call you and Jill 4 November at her place. Thanks for sending the telephone number. Hope the collect calls to you weren't too expensive. Glad to hear of your $1200 windfall, you deserve a break. I think clothes and your car are good investments.  I miss you very much as always. So Jill has a kitten huh! Great. And Flippi is busted again. Some people never learn. Paris is huge and magnificent, but the best part so far is all your letters. It is great being with CJ. We are eating well and seeing lots, but time is very precious for him, he only has one week, and it is such a shame as one week is not enough time to see very much. I sent a letter to a friend in Austria, and if possible they will send the bracelets or the money. We will see. How is Dale? Pete? Joe? etc.? I never seem to hear from them, except the 2 cards, and they didn't say much in them. When you were in Bogarts, did you see the card I sent them? Hope they got it, glad they remember us. Running out of room here, but my thoughts are with you. Stay well, Best of everything and I will do my best to call on 4 November. Love, Barry.
PS - I am watching for a great deal on a leather jacket for you.

Paris - 10/22/84
Postcard Picture is painting “Ecole De Fountainebleau” -  Hello CJ, hope you had a nice trip home, wish you were still here! At the Moment I am writing this, you are enjoying the Louvre and I am doing laundry. Who won the Redskins game this week? (As I am still soon to be curious) Just wanted to write and thank you again for everything. Both Gillian and I are having a wonderful time, and we appreciate your EXTREME generosity. Hope you are not broke now, or suffering jet lag. Somehow traveling now wont be the same without you. I wish you could have somehow managed an extra week or even two. There is so much more to see, but I am sure you will be back many more times. Anyway, hope you enjoyed Paris as much as I did, and thanks again for everything. Take care, hope all the pictures came out great and your partner lets you hang this card on the office bulletin board. It is a neat picture. Anyway, love, Barry.

Paris - 10/23/84
Tuesday - 6:45 p.m. - Cloudy and cold. Very nice day today & full!! We went to the Opera house for a quick look around, then down to the Champs De Elysees to see the expensive shops. There was one with a jacket like CJ's for $500 or so, and he got a kick out of that. Also a neat clock that was 2 stories tall and ran by fluids dribbling and filling chambers. Cool. Bought pastries for breakfast and saw 2 real neat Burger Kings, mixed in with the real nice, expensive shops. Kind of makes you wonder. The Arch De Triumph was nice, but none of us wanted to go up it especially. Then Metro to the Latin quarter for shish kabob lunch. Fish, lamb and beef. Excellent. Then the Church of Notre Dame. Magnificent cathedral. Then toured the Bastille prison form the French revolution. Then the war museum at the Hotel De Invalides where Napoleon’s tomb is in the St. Louis Church. Then a lengthy discussion of what to do. There was no controversy, only none of us had an opinion. We finally decided to go home and rest awhile. GH and I went to Monoprix to buy bread, milk and beer. Then Algerian airline, and found out it will be expensive, so we are thinking of just Egypt and Israel later in the voyage. So, probably from here we ( Gillian & I) will head to Spain, then East. Tonight, I don't know what we will do, but I think it is time to do it now. Later. BLF.

Paris - 10/24/84
Wednesday - 6:45 p.m. - Nice day overall, a few short showers. Anyway, last night we went to the red light district in Pigalle. Decided on a live show, and it was awful. But interesting anyway. The dancers rotate from one club to the next, so it really doesn't matter which one you go in. The women in the bar try  to sit with you and run up your bill. The “live sex” doesn't exist and the dancers were not especially exotic. Oh well, live and learn. Today we went to AMEX and O got a letter from grandmother, and one from aunt Marta. Very nice. Had an argument with them because they won't cash my AMEX money order, so they have sent a telex and I go back tomorrow. Hope I get more mail. Then, Madam Freddie to buy Moms perfume. Then the Pompidou Center. Saw the modern art, a bit of which I actually enjoyed. Magnificent building, indescribable. Nice picnic lunch. Then a rip-off tour of the smelly sewers ( at my insistence unfortunately). What a waste of time it was. Another stroll down the Champs De Elysees. Saw the ST Mary Magdalene cathedral and we are now cleaning up and getting ready for dinner. I wrote to Mom-Mom, now I must write Mom, Jill and Linda. Later. BLF.

Paris - 10/24/84
Postcard Picture is The Opera house - Jill, Hello from Gay Paris, and a very happy birthday! I hear from Linda you have an adorable kitten. She also sent your phone number and told me you are having a Halloween party. I will try and call 4 November and talk to you. I am upset that you forgot to invite me! Guess I will have to trick or treat here. CJ and I are having a great time. Wish you were here too. But I guess school comes first. My next mailing address is Madrid, Spain around 31 November, but address to hold till 30 December just in case. That should give you plenty of time to write me TWO letters. (and a picture of your cat). Hope school is going well, you are studying at least a little? I sent 4 rolls of film home with CJ, so over break you will enjoy seeing them. Linda should be at your party, and writes that she loves your house and campus. I will visit when I come back. Don't get 2 wild at your party, as it would be best if you are alive when I call “the day after”. CJ and I are going out to dinner now, so I must close, but I wanted to send this birthday greeting, so Take Care, Love Barry.
PS - What is your cats name? Will Mom let it in the house over break? If not, I will keep it for you for a few weeks. You are welcome.
PPS From CJ: This is the opera house that I saw, but Barry did not. He is tired of boring “tourist  traps *”.  Love, CJ.
 
(* Editors Note - This bit is illegible due to post marks).

Paris - 10/24/84
Postcard Picture is 7 views of Notre-Dame - Dear Linda, Hello Richmond, remember me? 1st, my next mailing address is Madrid, Spain AMEX, about 31 November, but address envelopes to hold until 30 December just in case. I have changed plans as it is very cheap from Spain to Morocco, but impossible to go budget across Africa safely towards Egypt and Israel. So, I go to Spain next, then Italy, Turkey, Greece, Israel and Egypt. I have been to AMEX every day looking for new letters, but I guess you have been busy. Still I hope for one more before I leave in two days. It is the most up to date news I have gotten, as it seems they take only about 5 days to get here. I enjoyed the two I did get. Today I went to the Pumpidou center and the sewers of Paris. Also saw Notre-Dame, but Quasimodo (the hunchback) wasn't home. These neat gargoyles were here though and I got a real kick out of them. All my love, I miss you very much, say hello to everyone and take care, Love, Barry
PS -  I was glad to hear that you look for my tent in your yard in the mornings. One day, it will be there. I will save my thoughts till that day.

Paris - 10/25/84
Thursday - 11:00 a.m. - Mixed weather - The week is going by very fast, as I suspected it would. Last night we went to an excellent restaurant very near here. GH & I had a beef dinner for 2. CJ had duck and for appetizers we split shrimp cocktail, pate' and escargot. Also, a nice bottle of wine. Then to the Ritz, where we finally succeeded in getting in (after 2 earlier failures). We saw lots of ritzy, plush, subdued elegance. Jewels and people. CJ set a new record - 3 drinks, 310 francs, or just over $30 America. Took some pictures and then went to the cafe' De La Paix for dessert. CJ and I discussed our philosophies on life and the trip so far. Home to bed about 2. Today, back to AMEX and then to the US embassy to vote, then meet CJ and GH at impressionist museum. Later. BLF.

Paris - 10/25/84
Thursday - 10:30 p.m. - Evening Supplement - Went to the AMEX office today and had to argue for about a half hour again because of I am not sure quite sure why they still were not ready to cash their money order, but they still didn't want to. One thing, they wanted my address in Paris, so I told them I was staying at the Ritz, and they were happy. Then, I went to the embassy where I had another argument when I found out I will not be allowed to vote due to pre registration requirements for absentee ballots and such. Bah, humbug. Then met CJ and Gillian. Went to a cafe' tonight for dinner. CJ & GH did well, but mine was terrible. Then to cafe' De La Paix  for dessert again. Back for an early evening. The porter at the hotel is asking CJ questions about why GH & I are here. I told CJ that if they start giving him a hard time, he should to them to “stay out of his sex life”, and see if that doesn't put them off a bit. Not much else for now. we will see what happens. Later. BLF.

Paris - 10/25/84
Postcard Picture is stained glass at Notre-Dame - Hello Grandma Simmie, CJ and I are having a great time in Paris! We even went to the hotel Ritz for drinks one night and it was real nice. The city is huge and unbelievable, from the sewers to the Eiffel tower. Not to mention the great food. Anyway, I am still going strong, and plan on about another 3 or 4 months over here. I am, in particular, starting to get excited about seeing Israel. Hope everything at home is good and everyone is well and happy. My thoughts are with you often, Love, Barry & CJ.

Paris - 10/26/84
Friday - 9:45 P.M. - Nice weather. Up about 9 this morning, and off to AMEX yet again to see about more mail and my money. None, but no hassle either. Then to the PTT so Gillian could try to ring home (unsuccessfully it turned out).  Then to the impressionist museum. Lots of Van Gogh, Monet, etc. My favorite was Manet.  Then to Versailles. Very impressive, and fairly cheap. CJ Paid our way in. He doesn't like it when we do not pay and says we are stealing. I know he is right, but I still figure it costs the museum or metro to the same to open every day whether I go in or not. Plus, there is the budget to consider. But, I guess it is stealing. In any case, the grounds are massive and well kept. We strolled through a bit of town and CJ bought me some film and took us to a cafe' for lunch. Nice atmosphere and service.  Then, back to Paris and discovered a part of town near the hotel that we had all somehow missed, that I particularly enjoyed. Neat shops, small pedestrian streets and cafes'. A big department store. Then back to the hotel to organize and pack. I was going to send my side bags home, but I have decided to empty them, and put them in the main pack for now. CJ's excellent idea. I can't believe I didn't think of that. Now I will finish. I have decided to send this book back with CJ so I don’t have to haul it around for the next 6 months. Even thought it is only half finished, it will be safer to just start the next book a bit early. See you again in Book 3. Thanks for a great week CJ.  Later.  BLF.

Paris - 10/26/84
Postcard Picture is Edouard Manet's  “Le de'jeuner sur l'herbe” - Dear Harriet & Eddie, Hello again from Paris. CJ and I are still having a great time, and I bought this postcard at the Impressionist museum because I liked this painting. The card doesn't really do it justice. Anyway, I have sent letters home and wish you would deliver or mail grandmothers and grandma Simmies. Also try to let me know if my first journal arrived with the package you should have received by now. I am very upset, as CJ has told me Tobelrone is available in the U.S., but I hope you enjoy them anyway. Just wanted to send you the best. Take care, say hello to all, Barry
 
 

South of Seville

South of Seville - 11/15/84
Thursday - 7:10 p.m. - I am about 60 to 80 k south of Seville, en route to Cadiz. This is book 4 of my journey, and this portion is being written as a replacement for book 3 (dating 27 October through 11 November) as that journal has been stolen.  In fact, we have been involved in a lot. One attempted rape and assault, robbed twice and assaulted again. Southern Europe, even with quaint wooden wine barrels and cheap local food and beer, and some very nice people etc., is still the pits. But I am getting ahead of my story. To start, I will try to go back to Paris and work my way back to the present. But if I do break sequence a few times, please forgive me. It is not easy to do this. One thing I can remember off hand is that immediately after leaving Paris and CJ, we took the metro to a train station, sold all our extra train tickets from the metro as well as our “unused” tickets from La Ferte Bernard (as they had never been punched by the conductor) and then we bought half fare, children’s tickets to the first town past Versailles. Then we stayed on the train an extra 40 Klicks or so to get well away from the city and on to a good spot to hitch. By now, it was getting late. We met a nice man after about 15 houses and slept in his basement.  While telling him about our exploration of Paris, he corrected my pronunciation of the Louvre. It struck me as funny because CJ had corrected me a few days before, saying that the r was not pronounced. The French apparently say it is in there. It seems silly, but I wish he could have still been with us. I would have loved to been able to say “told you so”. Ces La Vie. Very nice. It was very cold, and of course raining again and we both missed CJ. We also wished to tell him that the weather was back to normal since he left. That was our big joke. Anyway, I broke my sunglasses that night by stepping on them just before we went to bed.

South of Seville - 11/15/84
Sunday 10/28/84
My 6th month travel anniversary, we were woken up at about 8:30 and invited upstairs for breakfast with our new host family. Typical French breakfast of coffee, juice, croissants, etc. As it was cold and rainy again, we decided to skip Brittany and Normandy for the Moment and begin our southern trek in search of better weather. We finished packing and left before 11, stopped at a nice open air market and bought new Ferrari sunglasses for under $2. Also bread and pate', then we hit the trail hitching. Did all right with rides until one man let us out on the wrong highway and we went dead west instead of south. Got just past Angers and then we got no more rides. Police checked our passports two more times in just 4 hours or so. It started raining, so we decided to ask the house we were standing in front of. Deceived them a bit by claiming we had no tent and begging a spot in their basement. They gave us a bed and a wonderful 5 course dinner, wine, etc. Very nice. They had one of the biggest German shepherds I have ever seen. You can not believe how tired I am of standing in the rain.

South of Seville - 11/15/84
Monday 29 October 1984 we slept in and rested up a little bit after our hectic Paris pace. Still talking about CJ and how much fun we had, and wishing he was still with us. Somehow, it was not hard to imagine him back at the office by now, wondering where we might be, and wishing the same thing himself. Anyway, we got up well before 11 and upstairs for a real breakfast. Eggs, bacon, toast, coffee, juice and all. Continued hitching unsuccessfully an hour. Then we went back and tried to convince them to sell us their beautiful red Honda 750. But, no luck again so finally we got a ride in  a big truck. Weather turned pleasantly warm and sunny. After he docked his rig, we continued with him in his car another 20 k or so till he turned off. Finally made it to Poiters where there was supposed to be  a highway by just about dark. It was a huge town and we found the highway was 6 k's out on the other side of town. Took a train about 20 Klicks to the small town of Coute'-Verac hoping to find a garden. Went to the only pub and found only 10 drunk, dirty farmers. Most of them had no teeth, and wore filthy clothes covered in hay and mud. They amused themselves playing with this pitifully thin dog, and squeezing a fat, dirty  ladies tits. Finally, sensing that this was not “our town”, we started working on plan C. It was getting pretty late, but we lucked into a ride with one of them. He drove us all the way to the highway and dropped us right at the entrance ramp. We could not get a ride, and by now it was after midnight anyway. We spent the night in a filthy, stinking, rank, foul ESSO station. I drank 2 bottles of wine and got very drunk. Finally, just as I fell asleep, it started to rain. We had nowhere to put the tent, and that is how we ended up on the floor of the highway rest area bathroom.

South of Seville - 11/15/84
Tuesday 30 October 1984 - What a foul night we had spent in that stinking fly infested toilette. It was good I got drunk, or I couldn’t have slept at all. Anyway, up by 6 or so and very hung over naturally. Cleaned up a bit at the sink and thought about CJ. I wondered what the conversation would go like if I tried to explain this to him.  It is hard to explain some of the things we have subjected ourselves to in order to really extend this trip as long and as far as possible. It does create some glamorous Moments, but then there are nights like these. After cleaning up we walked back out to the road and hitched unsuccessfully for 2 or 3 more hours. Then we walked back to the rest area and ended up lucking in to a ride pretty quickly with a man from Portugal. He smoked a happy one with us and cured my hangover. Very nice.  We got out at Bordeaux, a huge city. Found no trace of a house with a garden, or even a house with out a garden for that matter. We decided to follow CJ's example and stayed at a nice hotel for two nights. It cost us less for 2 nights than for one drink at the Ritz. A fair deal for a room with a private toilette and shower. We were so worn out by this point, that all we could do was clean ourselves up and sleep. Neither of us had the energy to even eat before sleeping.

Bordeaux - 10/30/84
Postcard  Picture is 5 views of Bordeaux - Hello Linda, have you ever heard of this town? I am sure you have. Don't let the pictures deceive you, it is a huge city. Lot's to see and do. Best of all the weather is sunny and warm. This will probably be my last card from France for awhile, as from here I will continue south to Spain and Portugal. I intend to spend at least a week on a sunny beach, mostly dreaming of you. I will have spoken to you by the time you get this, as I will call Jill for now, and you will be there too ( I hope). I miss Halloween, and I guess I will miss Thanksgiving too. Eat extra turkey for me! Did you receive the gifts from Switzerland yet? Have you heard from the post office in Austria, I filed a claim? How many letters did you send to Paris? I only received 2, hope I didn't miss any, guess you must be busy. Tell the tax department that if they want lot's of cards from Spain, I expect a letter in Madrid from Greasy, Caroca, etc. Also tell Pete, Gordon, etc. to send real mail, with writing or tape. Not much else happening at this end, but I am looking forward to speaking to you soon & receiving your letters in Spain! Love, Barry.
PS - Happy Halloween!!
PPS - Hope all is well with car, school, and work. The stars are so bright here tonight. Just a few more months, and I will be back at home.

Bordeaux - 10/30/84
Postcard Picture is a pedestrian street in Bordeaux - Hello CJ, I thought I would send you a picture of a real pedestrian street, it goes like this about 10 blocks. GH and I are living it up in Bordeaux, following your example. We rented a hotel room. It is very nice, but we don't get chocolates on the pillow. On the other hand, it cost less than one drink in the Ritz. After you left, it got very cold and rainy, so we decided to save Normandy for the return trip to England, and have instead headed due south. Cashed in the unused Metro tickets in Paris, before heading about 20 miles out. Spent the first night in a house. Also the second, but the third night we got stuck hitching and stayed at an ESSO. Fun, fun, fun. Anyway, this is a very nice town, the weather is marvelous again - T-shirt hot and blue skies. We got Gillians film developed and it all came out well, hope ours did too. I have increased my consumption of fruit juice, beer and wine and decreased consumption of ciggs and milk. Thanks for the warning. Hope the office survived with out you, and that you are now happily back at work. Did everyone enjoy the scarves and cards? Again, we thank you for everything. We had a great time with you in Paris. We think of you often and hope to see you again soon. Take care, Love, Barry.
PS- Hope you still appreciate the signs being in English. They are not here. But, the Burger King does serve beer & there are no Howard Johnson's.
PPS - Hello from Gillian, thanks again for everything; hope it's not too difficult getting back to work. Au Revoir, Gillian.

South of Seville - 11/15/84
Wednesday 31 October 1984 - Woke up about 9:30 the next morning and felt great. Read Micheners Chesapeake in bed for awhile, enjoying the feel of warmth, security and privacy. Thinking about trying to normalize our routine again, and get back on budget. Gillian prepared a parcel with some things she picked up in Paris and wanted to mail home. We walked to town. Beautiful warm weather and sunshine!! GH photocopied her journal and sent the copies along with her parcel, and then we walked some of the massive pedestrian streets, at least 10 to 15 blocks of them.  Sent CJ a postcard of a real pedestrian street. Stumbled across a respectably seedy red light district too.  Found a fair in the center of town and looked around, and we decided to return and see it again at night. Bought a camping mattress at a surplus store. went back to the hotel about 4:30 or 5 to rest and drop off our packages, and to eat. Then about 9 we went back to the fair. It was neat. My favorite part were the games of skill. You could win live ducks and geese to take home and cook. We did not spend one single franc though, in fact we each found 5 or 10 francs on the ground. On the way back to the hotel we met some drugged up psychotic on the street. He frightened Gillian. We were almost back to the hotel anyway, and he did not really threaten us. He was a scary character though, and no point taking any kind of pointless chances. We just tried to ignore him, and continued walking till we made it back to the hotel. I read for awhile and Gillian went to sleep immediately. Up early the next morning to check out.

South of Seville - 11/15/84
Thursday 01 November 1984 - Immediately after we check out, we found that everything was closed for another typical European “surprise” holiday in honor of some saint or something. I tried to get ravel insurance, but all were closed and GH couldn't mail her package either. So we just started hitching. Wonder what Jill is doing for her birthday back home. It was terrible hitching. We ended up in Pessac, about 12 Klicks away after 10 hours.  Walked away from the road a ways, and with great difficulty found a house and garden. They fed us a nice dinner and gave us a numbered bottle of Bordeaux wine from 1968.. It was excellent. Slept in their garden. In the morning they drove  GH to the PTT and she was finally able to send her package. Put the tent in their clothes dryer, and it was ready to pack in 10 minutes or so.  Then they drove us to a rest area on the highway 10 k up the road where they figured we would have a fair chance at a ride. A good start for Friday 02 November 1984.

South of Seville - 11/15/84
Friday 02 November 1984 - GH lost her red sweatshirt, but we got lots of rides and eventually got to Bayonne. It was raining again of course, but we got another ride in a van with 4 Australians to San Sebastian, just over the border in Spain, along the coast.  At the border, the customs agent for Spain  pretended to inspect the van, but really didn't seem to care very much. We got some Spanish money, Pesata's, and found another hotel to get out of the rain. Tried again to get travel insurance, but it is impossible in Spain I found out. The Basque region was nice, very friendly people. (in spite of all the machine guns and tensions) We bought some bread and salmon pate' and went back to the hotel to plan our strategy. In the evening, walked to the university section, learned that Ghandi had been assassinated and that India was in a huge riot state. Went to a few bars, won a little in the slot machines, went to a cafeteria and got dinner and then back for sleep. Learned that up until the Moment we arrived it had been warm and sunny, with people swimming at the beach. Just our luck.  Beautiful beaches too. All of the police carry snub nosed machine guns, grenades and flak jackets.

South of Seville - 11/15/84
Saturday 03 November 1984 - Up about 8:30, nice weather, but rather cool. Tried hitching South, we got 1 ride, about 6 Klicks by 2:30. Tried to by a mule and cart from a passing farmer, but he wouldn't sell. GH and I decided on a train to Burgos. It too, took hours and hours to go a short distance.  We arrived well after dark. Huge city, but I smelled my way to the only street with houses and gardens within miles of here. At first house, got an OK. The son spoke good English and had lived in Washington state for one year of high school. He took us out to dinner. We drank a few beers, I bought a real pack of ciggs as they are cheap in Spain. (about 20 cents). Back to the tent and got to sleep about 11.

South of Seville - 11/15/84
Sunday - 04 November 1984 - Up about 10 this morning to find cold, wind driven rain. Lot's of rain. We got permission to stay another night, stowed our gear in the basement to dry, had breakfast and set out to see the city.  Went to a monastery and cathedral, ate at a pastoria (pastry cafe”) and mostly walked around a lot in the rain seeing what we could. Love the El Cid statue near the train station. I looked for a PTT to call Jill and Linda, but it was closed. Finally found a hotel, and talked nearly half an hour. 50 dollars - way to much to spend. I was kind of depressed, so Gillian and I went out for a nice dinner. Very good, and only ended up costing about $2 apiece.  Then, on one coin, I won almost $5 in the slot machine and decided to cantina hop with my winnings. Found a “Little Amsterdam” cafe' and went in for a smoke. Gillian and I decided to buy some transportation if we can. A car, moped, donkey, anything we can afford. Tomorrow. We saw lots more El Cid monuments, relics, etc. today.  Spain, it seems, is very quiet in the afternoons, but at night around 8:30 or so it comes alive again until two, three or even four in the morning. Anyway, when we finally went home, it was still pouring rain, and we asked to sleep in the house. Talked with the family for an hour or so about Politics, finances, history etc. I never knew both Spain and Portugal were both neutral in both world wars. My ignorance. finally, to bed.

Burgos - 11/4/84
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Burgos, Spain by night - Hello Linda, it was great talking to you, but unbelievably expensive!!! I celebrated blowing the money by going to several bars. I played the slot machines in 3 of them and won. Lot's of coins, but there are 166 to the dollar and you bet with 5 cents Spanish or about three fifths of a cent American, so it is hard to win (or lose) big time. But, winning made me feel better, along with a few beers. It was great talking with you and you sounded very good. I will look for a tiger for you, much better choice than a leather jacket. I do miss you though. Hope the cuckoo clock is not driving CE crazy. Are you doing well in school? Was Jill's party good? Is Mikey a great squid? Is Dave really marrying Kim?? Is my spelling any better? I will try to come home with a bit of my money. I will see Canada with you. But if you do go with Kim first, it is OK with me. You will just have to be the guide when you take me. Tell the tax department I am glad they got the card, I am disappointed with the weather in Spain (so far) and more cards will come. Say hello to Tom for me! Sorry to hear everyone in Richmond is not staying in contact with you. Their loss. Say hello to Walter, and tell him I am disappointed that I did not get a postcard from the Orient. If you get a kitten before I come back, pick a cute and smart one that I will like too. I won't spoil just any cat, but you have good taste in such matters. It was great hearing your voice, looking forward to any mail you have time to write. My thoughts and dreams are with you as always. See you before May 1985.
PS- I will not be going to India or Turkey now, as I am too short of funds. Linda Cowan"

Burgos - 11/4/84
Postcard Picture is El Cid and 3 views of Burgos - Hello Jill, today is 4 November and I am just writing to say I am glad I talked to you and Linda, but I was VERY upset at the cost when the bill came. I blew $50 I could have found very useful in buying my mule. But it was great talking to you. I found some real American cigarettes tonight and bought a pack as they are cheap here. (about 30 cents). Also decided to splurge on a restaurant Pizza because I called Dominoes (804-780-0892 in Richmond) and they wouldn't deliver a hamburger, mushroom and onion pizza in 30 minutes or free. But alas, no pizzerias so I had to eat Spanish food. It was good though! I was glad to hear your voice again. It's been awhile since Luxembourg. I was glad to get your last card and Swiss chocolate. Also, can picture your cat with a real Swiss cow bell. Legend has it, your cat won't fall asleep while eating if he wears her bell. Hope you are making a serious effort at school, it is important. As Linda will tell you, or CJ, it is not really too hard. Weather here is bad. Hitching worse. I must buy a mule, moped, motorcycle, car, limo or something soon, or I lose whatever sanity I have left. Or maybe it will be better tomorrow. Who knows. I know I miss you and really enjoyed hearing your voice. Also thought it was funny you had no cigarettes and I actually did for the first time in months. Study hard, I will see you after 6 or 7 more countries. Stay well in school, health, etc. Love, Barry.
PS - $50 dollars equals about 8,000 pistachios.
PSS - Do some studying now, and then realize that by the time you are reading this, I am hopefully on a warm sunny beach. Love and kisses, Barry.

South of Seville - 11/15/84
4 Spain Monday 05 November 1984 -  Up and showered and packed and fed and ready to go by about 9:30. Thomas (the son) walked with us to the road towards Madrid, and other points to the south. Very cold and windy, but dry. As has become usual in the south, no rides at all. 4 hours and nothing. We were cold and I was angry. We walked back towards town and went to a TI to ask where we could buy a car. As usual in Spain (and later in Portugal) we found no one stationed at the TI or the Policia station who spoke any English. After about 40 minutes of trying to communicate with hand signals and drawing stick figure pictures, we left with a list of about 10 local car dealers. We liked a little Citroen B we found at one of the lots. It seemed the place was fairly honest and reputable. The only problem was, you must be a resident of Spain to buy a car. Or you must find a resident willing to sign for you. We told them to get the car, and the papers ready for tomorrow, if they would accept our offer. Then, walked back to Thomas's. They had relatives in town now and couldn't put us up again, but Thomas and his English friend George took us to a cheap $6 a night pension that was both clean and friendly.  We had two beers, and then arranged to meet him in the morning so he could sign the papers for us. Very nice. Then to bed.

South of Seville - 11/15/84
Tuesday 06 November 1984 -  up by 8:30 and had a cup of coffee while we waited for Thomas and George.  Then we called the Citroen dealer. They accepted our offer of 60,000  (down from 80,000) Ps, and told us to come fill out the papers. They even sent a car out to pick us up, and we were off. We inspected the car again and took it for a test ride. It has 4 speeds, no rust, air cooled 2 cylinder engine, front wheel drive, 4 doors, good tires and battery. It seems sound for a car with about a million miles on it. It burns quite a bit of oil, but no big deal as long as we remember to check the oil regularly. It is really no worse than my old Chevy. No radio, no heat, door knobs are broken or sticky. No frills.  Anyway, , for $352.18 American we drove away with the car, including tags, title and required 30 days worth of liability insurance. Gillian and I named the car Gaye Thomasina, after the magical car in Heinleins “Number of the Beast” (Gay Deceiver), and our friend Thomas who helped us buy it. We dropped Thomas and George off in town, loaded our packs in the trunk and set off for Segovia.  We remembered to check the oil, but forgot to shut the fill cap. As we drove our first 3 or 4 Ks, oil began spurting up out of the engine and all over the windshield and car. We thought it had blown an engine, but there was no damage. We just added more oil in, wiped the old oil off the windshield and hit the road again, driving off into the proverbial sun set. I sent postcards home to advise everyone that I was now motorized, and I did not have to carry my pack around at all that day, except to put in the trunk of the car. YAY!!!! The drive to the old town of Segovia was across a vast, empty hills and plains, almost desert like. Beautiful country, lousy roads. Used only a half tank of petrol. Passed several tiny villages.  Lots of donkey carts on the roads, and horse drawn plows working the fields.  We saw women doing the family laundry in muddy rivers here and there. Beating the clothes on rocks to get them clean. WOW. Stocked up on groceries and fruit juice. Milk is lousy here, and it makes CJ happy that I have given it up for awhile. Went to a few cafe's, had a few “bought a car” celebration drinks. (still hard to believe we are in a car that cost under $200 apiece). It was very cold again, and threatening to rain. We decided against the tent due to the weather, and drove to a very small village where we parked in the square and slept in the car. warm dry and cozy, reasonably comfortable (except for the gear shift). Later. BLF.

Burgos - 11/6/84
Postcard Picture is all the provincial shields of Espana - Hello Linda, how is everything there? Things here are strange. Hitching has been very bad, I even tried to buy a mule and cart from a passing farmer, but the farmer wouldn't sell. So today, I bought a Citroen, car by Renault. It was pretty cheap, and I set aside some petrol money. I figure I can just cover my intended route with better speed and comfort. If the car doesn't die unexpectedly that is. It seems very healthy and drives well. Surprise, never thought I could do  this. It is much easier, but gas is $2.65 a gallon, or there abbots. So I must stick to my planned route to get in under budget. Anyway, Buenos Dias to all at the tax department. Show Greazy the card if you get a chance. It is all the regions of Spain, with their shields. Just thought you would enjoy this sudden news, and now don't feel so bad about the money I spent for the phone call. I am not broke yet, surprisingly. Take care, stay well and study well, see you before the end of March, as I will surely be out of funds by then. Love, Barry.

Burgos - 11/6/84
Postcard Spain Picture is the castle in Segovia - Hello Mom & Eddie, how are things there? They are very well here. I bought a car today in Burgos, Spain and I am just thrilled with it. It makes things very easy, as long as it continues to run. It was fairly cheap, including tags, title and insurance, and I figured my intended route, miles & gas money required. I have just enough for petrol and food through Greece, where I will sell the car and use the money to fly to Israel. Hopefully, it will make it. It is only 9 years old, a Renault Citroen, which is the European equivalent to a Volkswagen beetle, but a bit bigger. It seems tough and healthy. Surprise, but more of one for me. Spain, at least here in the north is not having great weather, and distances are long between points of interest. It is nice to come and go with ease. Anyway, for now all is well here. Please call CJ and tell him, maybe he will come over again for a Sunday drive. Is he still playing the flute? Did you vote? Love, Barry

Burgos - 11/6/84
Postcard Picture is a Roman aqueduct in Segovia - Hello again Jill, I am not upset about the phone call being expensive anymore. I spent all day yesterday trying (un-successfully) to hitch out of Burgos. I got disgusted and went back to town and bought a Citroen. That’s a CAR! It is 9 years old and pretty nice. I figured out my budget, route and needs and figure with the added cost of the car and gas, I can see everything but Israel and still have a dollar or two extra. If I sell the car in Greece (hope it is still running) I will get back all or most of my money. The Citroen is built by Renault, and when I visited the factory awhile back I was impressed. I drove away from the lot today, in Spain, in my new, old car. Real neat! Just thought you would enjoy this news. Did you vote today? Happy birthday (again), study some and stay well. Hello El Cid, Kitten w/cowbell & room-mates. Love, Barry.  PS -If I pass you while you are hitch hiking here, be sure I will stop for you!

South of Seville - 11/15/84
Wednesday - 07 November 1984 - Woke up about 8, threw everything in the back seat and set out for Avila. It was great to be able to just get up and go without breaking a camp, drying a tent, packing a back pack, etc. Again today, the country side was hilly, vast and barren. Avila, like many of the cities in this region, was nice but not great. Golden sandstone, cathedrals, walls around the city, a big square. Rained all day. Hard rain. Went to cafe' for lunch. About a dollar and a half American bought a huge steak surrounded by heaps of fresh veggies. Very nice. Went to a few cafe's in the evening, mostly to try and meet someone who would put us up for the night, but no luck. We slept in the car again.

South of Seville - 11/15/84
Thursday 08 November 1984 - Woke up and found fair weather. Drove down the road in search of a hotel where we could buy a  shower, and shortly found just the place. 75 cents later, we were squeaky clean. Then on to Portugal. It started raining yet again. Very glad to be driving instead of hitching. Thomasina is proving reliable (if not luxurious) so far at least. Arrived in Portugal no problem at the border. Gillian had been worried, as it can sometimes be a bit tricky for Kiwi's. We changed some money and drove through a very hilly, wild countryside.  Stopped at a roadside restaurant for lunch. Huge meal for under a dollar. Filled up the tank with petrol too, and figure we are getting around 50 mpg or so.  Drove through lots of villages. Saw many women walking along the road with big clay jugs of water on their heads. Filthy conditions to live in, and poverty in abundance. Good beer, and food and wine. We picked up a local hitch hiker today, and drove him to his village. Went to a restaurant and sat by a blazing fireplace drinking beer. GH didn't feel well, but I was hungry and ordered dinner. It probably was about 3 or 4 pounds of meat, potatoes, mushrooms, onions and gravy. No one speaks English or French here, but when the owner of the restaurant saw that we intended to sleep in the car (just down the street), he prepared a bedroom in his house for us. I drank with him and his friends until maybe 2, then left them and went to bed. Very nice.

Avila - 11/8/84
Postcard Picture is 5 views of Salamanca - Hello Kerry, as you can see I am now in sunny Spain. It is cold and rainy, not sunny. At least in the north. Hitch hiking is nearly impossible. gasoline costs $2.60 a gallon, or so. I bought a car, and it is real nice just being able to drive around. It is a Citroen, built by Renault. 9 years old, 30-35 mpg, 4 speed, no rust. Total cost including tags, taxes, registration and title, insurance for 3 months - $352.18! Not bad, huh? Hope it lasts for 3 months, then I will sell it and sail to Egypt and Israel. Today, I will be in Portugal. I am only 25 miles from the border, and in a week or two on to Morocco, back again through Spain and then north towards Monaco, Greece and Italy. Are you still working at Chi Chi? The cantina's here are cheap. About 20 to 30 cents for a beer, cigarettes are 30 cents, snacks and food are really cheap. As always, I think of you and others very far away. See lot's of places you would like. Anyway, say hello to Alan and anyone else you run in to. Write  to me in Madrid, I will be there 30 November for mail. This Sunday I might go to the bullfights and fight a bull, or maybe just sit in the cantina and think about doing it. Anyway, stay well, don't work too hard. Adios, Your Friend, Barry.

South of Seville - 11/15/84
Friday - 09 November 1984 - Left about 11:30 amidst many found farewells. Set of for Coimbra, an old walled city, surrounded by grapes and rice patties. It is perched on a steep hill overlooking these fields and a small river. The weather is outstanding. Looked through a small museum, walked around and on top of the walls of the city, all the way around.  Changed some more money, and bought some postcards. Leaving, we were stopped at a road block for a routine paper check. Small delay, but no problems. This is the wrong town, wait a minute. I am out of sequence. Coimbra is a hilly university town, and quite large. I walked around a couple of hours, and bought some groceries. We left, and continued heading south. Picked up a hitch hiker, a student going home for the weekend. We took him to Coldas, he bought us a beer. We looked around town a bit, and then continued to Abidos. The town described above and out of sequence. After a good look here, we headed to Pernishe, a fishing village where we spent the night on the beach.

South of Seville - 11/15/84
Saturday - 10 November 1984 - This is about when things started to get a little complicated, and as I have been re-writing this account for over two hours now, it is getting late. I better wait until tomorrow and do it right. At the Moment it is 12 midnight and I am tired. I promise, I will bring things up to speed tomorrow. Later. BLF.

South of Seville - 11/16/84
Good afternoon. Today is the 16th of November, I am rested and feeling good, and now I will try to bring you up to date, beginning with;

Saturday - 10 November 1984 - Awoke about 8 a.m.. Thomasina was parked in a square, right by the beach. Walked along the shore, but couldn't get near the water as it was all rocks and cliffs. There were fishermen all over the square, un-tangling nets and lines and doing the early morning work that fishermen do. There were a few houses and an old castle. The weather was nice, the sea beautiful. But still, much filth and poverty. Sewage ran open from each house right into the sea. Barefoot children, old women all dressed in black and carrying baskets and bundles on their heads. Walked along the beach of rocks till we came to the harbor, with a large fleet of dilapidated fishing boats selling thousands of fish, losing only a few to the ground, fast children and daring seagulls. There were almost as many seagulls as fish it seemed.  It was a neat market and afterwards we went to try and find a bathroom to clean ourselves up a bit. Then we looked for groceries, but the stores were pitiful. No variety, nothing that appeared to us anyway, as edible.  We drove to Sintra and bought an excellent lunch - huge, hot and tasty for maybe a buck and a half total. Looked around  the food market and found lots of fruit, but very little in the way of meats or cheese. Also, there is always lots of fish, much of it salted. It started to get cool and windy and we left for the coastal city of Cascais, about 20 Ks to the North of Lisbon (or Lisboa as the Portuguese would say). A beautiful town with beautiful beaches and good weather. Went to a TI, and the boy there spoke passable English as well as fluent French. He suggested we camp on the beach about 5 Klicks north of town. He assured us it was a safe and quiet area, and that the police would probably not bother us there either. We drove over to check it out and it looked pretty nice. We picked a spot, then went back to town for a look around. Bought some new used books, including “Animal Farm” by George Orwell, and 2 or 3 other, lighter choices in science fiction. Went to a few cafe's, had drinks and played chess. About 10:30 we went back to the beach. It was very windy and it took awhile to get the tent up and anchored securely. Our new camping mattresses blew out of the car and quickly disappeared out to sea. Drat. We locked the car, got in the tent and went to sleep without them. Guess we just were not meant to be too comfortable on our budget. At about 2 in the morning, I heard the tent flap unzipping and assumed Gillian was stepping out to take a leak. I looked up and was awakened by the bright beam of a flashlight directly down in to my eyes. I nearly freaked out. There was a man. He flashed police ID with his picture on it and asked for my passport. Then he woke Gillian and told her she must come with him. He ordered me to stay in the tent and go to sleep when I too tried to get out of my sleeping bag and up off the ground and out in to the open. Of course I came out anyway, just as soon as he stepped clear. He turned, and threw a big stone at me and told me to stay where I was, and he grabbed Gillian roughly by the elbow and started dragging her over a dune and further down the beach, in the opposite direction from the road.  I followed after him, but he turned a came back at me, threatening me with his club. I shouted to GH to run, but he had both our passports still and he had police ID, he claimed he was only taking her to talk to his partner who spoke French, and said that her visa was no good. Neither of us really believed him, but there is the authority issue. I ran and got the car drove down the  beach, looking for my knife, which unfortunately I couldn't find anywhere. I was keeping my eye on  Gillian, and the man, when suddenly they disappeared and she immediately started screaming. I drove in the direction of the screams, where I had last seen them as until the car stalled. I left the headlights on and ran the last few yards towards the screams. Just then, she appeared over the dune, right next to the car behind me. Her shirt was torn and she was quite hysterical, but she had both our passports. The man was gone, or at least I could find no sign that he was still anywhere near us.  We walked back to the car and drove back to the tent, which I pulled up and threw in to the trunk, and then we went straight to the police station in town. Big mistake. They did not attempt to speak any language at all, not English, French or even Portuguese. They would not listen, they did not want to hear. They told us to come back in the morning if we liked. Finally, we persuaded one of them to go to the beach and look for the guy, but we found nothing except for some fishermen who backed up our story and had heard Gillian screaming. Then, after we left, they recognized one of the local cops coming up off the beach. We were advised not to pursue things any further. We went back to town to regroup. I noticed the trunk lock had been broken. My knife and flashlight were gone. Then I noticed there was a considerable amount of our stuff gone, it must have been stolen by our friend the cop. My orange detachable day bag (from the back pack) was gone, along with my camera, chess and CWO games, all the addresses of the people we had stayed with, Book III of this journal (which I am re creating now) my wallet, toothbrush, contact lens solutions, towel, sunglasses, etc. etc. Also, most of our groceries, some wine and my cigarettes and lighter. I found one pack of cigarettes he had missed in the very back of the trunk, and smoked about 10 of them before I fell asleep, in the car, parked across the square from the police station.  In the morning, we went back to talk to our friend at the TI and tell him what happened. He closed the TI kiosk and insisted on taking us back to the police station. He translated our version of events, and they took a minor interest. Suddenly, the officer learned to speak a bit of English. We gave a pretty good detailed description of the would be rapist and thief.. We asked to see pictures of his staff, but he wouldn't let us. But he said if we could stay around for 2 or 3 weeks he might be able to arrange it. Ha Ha! We drove back to the beach with the police  to look for any of our missing gear, as they insisted it could not have been stolen, but we found nothing. We spent a good deal of the rest of the day filling out required reports, waiting and signing forms.  I asked if I could use their sink to wash the cuts on my hands, arms and feet from the short scuffle.. They suggested I might want to check in to a hotel when they were finished with us. Then, about 6 o’clock that evening they tried to charge us 60 escudos filing fee. I emptied the 10 escudos I still had in my pocket on the desk. They took the money, and we finally left with the police report required to  make an insurance claim for our losses. We were glad to go, and both of us felt very certain that they were equally pleased to see us leave town quietly. We arrived in Lisbon, and immediately checked in to an inexpensive pension and hit the showers. Then we tried to sort out our gear and do an inventory to determine our losses, as well as our assets. Then, I went to the nearest bar and got absolutely plastered. Good job Gillian, you are one tough character. I would have loved to seen the look on his face when you kicked him in the balls. I am sorry I wasn't there for you.

Cascais - 11/11/84
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Cascais including famous “donkey in a hat” per the law - Hello Mom and Eddie, the car is running very well. Unfortunately, not everything is going so well. Last night while I was sleeping, the car was broken in to and my Swiss knife, camera, toiletries, journal book #3, address book and several other things were stolen. Then I went to the police, but they were of no help. In fact, it was one of them that robbed us. He had knocked my traveling companion to the ground and was trying to rape her. We are leaving Portugal today. The climate here is not to my liking anymore. In any case, I am well and can survive without the things that are gone but please send a complete list of addresses to Madrid including all grandmothers, brothers, sisters and friends whose addresses you may have. Also, call the store where I got my pack and see if it is possible to get the top section (day bag) replaced, as they also took that.  Fortunately, the entire pack must have been too heavy for the bastard to carry. Don't panic or worry, everything is OK. Repeat: OK. So don't worry. My friends insurance might cover some of the stuff that was stolen, but if you can, see if your policy will cover anything. Thanks, and I will say again - No change in plans for now, everything is OK. Take care, Love, Barry.

PS - My money, passport, etc. are safe. I never take those off. Lucky I know your address by heart or I couldn't write. Send other addresses please, including relatives in Israel.
PSS - 11-12-84 Lisbon - The insurance here covers nearly everything. Have already replaced Swiss knife and get camera soon. Please write Madrid with cost of new top bag so I can try and set money aside. All is well, Love, Barry.

South of Seville - 11/16/84
Monday - 12 November 1984 - Up about 9, packed, showered and went to Gillians insurance companies Lisbon office. They were very friendly and helpful, the man worked with us well in to his lunch hour. She submitted the police report, hotel bill from last night, and the revised list of additional items. He arranged for the claim to be settled in Madrid around 30 November, as it takes about two weeks.  We went to a Max burger and pigged out for lunch, then through town replacing essential items. Toothbrush, comb, Swiss knife, flashlight, new switchblade knife for protection. I also got a wallet and a new notebook for book IV of the journey.  Sent a postcard to Mom, asking for addresses for lots of friends and relatives, and one to Linda for the addresses of my friends in Richmond. About 5 that afternoon we left Lisbon. Traffic was a nightmare, but finally got out. About 9:30 the car temperature went up, and I had to pull over and check it out. We were dead center in the middle of nowhere. We needed oil - now. No station nearer than 30 k in either direction, but a car stopped to help us and drove us to get the oil. They even drove us back to the car. Very nice. Used up the very last of our Portuguese escudos on the oil, but we offered our driver English, American, Swiss or Spanish money for his effort. He insisted on accepting nothing, and left us at Gaye Thomasina, oil in hand. We put in the oil and continued on another 40 k or so, and stopped for the night near a roadside bar.  The owner came out and invited us inside. After we told him about our recent adventures, he fed us a great meal and shouted me a few beers. Then, invited us to sleep in his house, in an extra room. No plumbing in the 3 room house he, his wife and his 3 kids shared.  They didn't seem to mind though, left us with a bed and a bucket should we need to toilette during the night. In the morning, he had a mechanic come and look our car over. He gave Thomasina a clean bill of health for a car with her kilometers. And so that brings us to Tuesday morning.

South of Seville - 11/16/84
Tuesday - 13 November 1984 - We continued our journey to Faro, in the Algarve section of the southern tip of Portugal. Picked up two girl back packers, a  New Zealander and an Australian and drove them with us to Faro. Sunny and clear but very windy, which also kept it rather cool. Went to a restaurant where they treated us like American shit. We ate and left. Decided to go to Seville. Drove out of Portugal and took a ferry back to Spain. It was a wooden boat and you drive right onto the deck. Actually it was little more than a raft, a barge at best. As each car drove on, it sank a little deeper in the water. It was noticeable with each car. But they still crammed about 8 cars on for the 20 minute trip. It was an adventure. To get on the deck, they put wood planks from the ship to the dock and 2 men hold them in place so you can guide your wheels on to them. WOW. Anyway, about half way to Seville, we decided to stop for the night and turned off the road to head for a small village. 10 bars, but not a single restaurant, cafe' or grocery store. Got lost for about an hour trying to find the road again and nearly ran out of petrol. I got a killer headache, so when we finally found gas, we just pulled into the town square, parked and slept right there. No dinner.

Algarve - 11/13/84
Postcard Picture is 3 views of Algarve - Hello Linda, from Portugal. The food here is very cheap, plentiful and good. I am in Algarve now, the southern coast and it is sunny and warm. The car seems to be doing OK, but two days ago in Cascais, I was robbed and they got away with lots of stuff including camera, pieces of my pack, CWO dice, address book, journal book #3, Swiss army knife, etc. etc. etc. It is a bummer. Can you Please tell anyone else in Richmond (Joe, Pete, Dale, Tax department, etc.) that if they want me to continue writing them, I need their address. Yours is the only one I know by memory. Lisbon was an OK city, and I have met some really nice people in this country, but it is desperately poor, in some cases primitive and outdated. Now, after this last experience I have decided against visiting Morocco. I don't want to go through these hassles again. It is not worth it. The ocean (Atlantic) is about 50 yards from me and I look over the waves but only the horizon is in sight. Somewhere, beyond that horizon I know you are there. I miss you. Think of  you often. Send new addresses. Love, Barry.

Faro - 11/13/84
Postcard Picture is view of Lisboa - Hello Mom & Eddie, I am in Algarve in the town of Faro It is sunny and warm, spent most of yesterday in Lisbon filing a claim with insurance and replacing some of the essentials that were stolen. Expect to get a check in Madrid for the remainder of the items. So wish you would send price of Gregory top bag for my pack. Everything else, I can take care of here. DO NOT send the bag, I can get along without it since I have the car, and replace it when I get back and have more money. I just need the cost figure. Probably heading down the coast and into Spain again today. Stay on the coast for a week or so. have decided against Morocco as I don't want any more excitement like I have recently had, so I will finish Spain, go through Monaco and the surrounding French area on the way to Italy and Greece. Then Egypt and Israel. Car is still OK and running well and on budget. Say hello to all, as until I receive copies of addresses I can not write. Not much else for now, Love, Barry.

South of Seville - 11/16/84
Wednesday - 14 November 1984 -  Slept surprisingly late, all things considered. We awoke about 9 or 9:30, used the toilette in a bar, and drove off for Seville. Arrived, parked the car and walked off to see the town. Within one hour  I had been attacked on the street, and lost all my Spanish cash. I fought back, but there almost instantly it was 8 against one. Instead of just 2 against one. I was mad. I was livid, angry and enraged. In fact, these words do not really describe my state of mind with any degree of justice.  About an hour and a half later, I saw one of the f#^&@*><rs and attacked him right there on the street. It was the first time I ever threw the first punch. I don't think he ever saw me coming. I managed to get about one thousand pesetas from him before the others knew what was happening and joined the fight. As usual, the crowd on the street that gathered just stood around. Some cheered, some laughed, some looked appalled. But in the end, they all just watched. Afterwards, I went to the Policia, who were very friendly and helpful. Apparently, crimes against tourists are dealt with harshly here, and they really seemed eager to help. We looked around with an escort, but saw them no more. GH and I walked back  to the car, dunned our packs and began searching for a garden shelter. One lady said no, but offered us 500 Pesetas for a hotel, which we thanked her for, but refused. We understood her fear and reluctance a bit better now I guess. Also her desire to help us and be reasonable. Guilt and fear on many levels. Finally, we found a garden, erected the tent, laid out the bags, stowed the gear and then found a super market. Gillian bought us bread, milk, cheese, lunch meats, beer and fruit juice and we went back to our garden. Sat in Thomasina and ate, then we read our books under the dome light until about 10:30, then we retired to the tent to sleep.

South of Seville - 11/16/84
Thursday - 15 November 1984 - Up about 9 and invited in for breakfast of coffee, pastry and toast. Sunny morning! A shower! Clean up, shave, etc. (even though no hot water). Then decided to go to town and do some hunting. After 40 minutes or so, I saw the bastards again, but they didn't see me. I ran to the Policia Station and about 10 of them, complete with machine guns, entered the area from several directions at once. Meanwhile, I walked about 100 yards ahead, but to my disappointment, they were gone again.  Apparently, that was because this time they HAD seen me coming and fled. But the Policia at the other end managed to catch two of them. We went back to the station, I identified them. One of them especially pissed me off, he was the brave one who joined the second fight at the very end, just to get in a couple of licks safely. And he was astonished that I would identify him, like I owed him a break or something. Ha! They are in jail now, and the money they got from me is a pittance compared to the price they will now pay. Very nice.  They are out of business now, plus they will have expenses, plus of course some jail time.  The officer assured me they both had long records and this time, would hopefully be away for awhile. They had been trying to catch them for some time, he said, and were glad to have a chance to get them off the street. The officer said tourists are good targets to these gangs, because most are old and slow and just plain careless. Plus, they tend to come through for a day or two at most, and they aren’t willing to spend any time to help catch the crooks, so the crooks often win.  A lot of time, they are so surprised, they do not even remember what the crook looked like anyway. I am glad I fought back. I am glad that we caught at least 2 of them. But GH and I also decided, the safest thing for us to do right now, was to go ahead and just leave town while we were still “winners”.  The police showed us to the back door, and on the way we passed our fiends again. The police were processing and searching them and found several stolen items, illegal weapons, and incriminating evidence. They will be in jail a long time. Good. We left from the back door. I kept my new switchblade in my hand, and my hand in my pocket all the way back to the car. then we left immediately, heading south for the coast and Cadiz. Stopped after a hundred k or so to give the car a rest, and I wrote the first several pages of this replacement journal. Continued on, but at 9:30 or so we hit fierce rain and had to stop again for  awhile. Went to a bar and met some American navy people. They were stationed on a nearby navy base. We talked awhile. He, one of them, had a Budweiser cap and I mentioned how funny I thought it was that Americans think Budweiser is so good, but American beer is not exported as it could not be given away free in most of Europe. He agreed. We left about 11 and I wrote more of my journal in a bar near a place we could sleep. Went to bed about half past 12 and just slept on a quiet street in the car. It is interesting to listen to the sounds of wind and rain in a car, in the dead of night, in the still of a car. Lots of wind and rain.

En Route to Malaga  - 11/15/84
Postcard Picture is a campground on the beach in Peniche, Portugal - Hello Mom and Eddie. I just wanted to write and tell you I am out of Portugal and everything is OK, however, on my first day back in Spain, Seville to be exact, I had another little problem. I was accosted and robbed again, right on the street and in brad daylight. They tried to steal my money. I fought back and a gang of about 8 turned on me. I lost about $30 dollars as I had just left the bank. I went again to the Policia and queued up with the other (mostly) tourists who had been robbed. That makes 2 times now for me in less than one week. It is a bit unreasonable, so after filing the report, I found a garden and slept. Then today, I went to town to look for the thieves, and spotted them. I ran to the Policia, and about 10 of the police (with machine guns) came with me and we caught 2 of the bastards, who are now safely in jail. Then I left town, thinking it would be best to just keep on going. Anyway, I feel better because the 2 we caught were among the worst and apparently had long records and will now be away for a nice long while. The police were grateful (and somewhat surprised) for my help. Now I am just touring the southern coast around Cadiz and Malaga. A few more towns, then mail in Madrid and out of Spain for good. I am healthy and fine and very ready for Italy, or any other CIVILIZED country. Hopefully I have used my ration of bad luck up now. Anyway, things can only get better. I am determined not to let these minor setbacks ruin my trip. The car is getting better than 30 mpg. I met a mechanic who looked it over and gave it a clean bill of health for now. It has front wheel drive, air cooled engine, brakes, tires and battery all work.
PS - Don't worry, I am fine. The next card must be good news only, or I am coming home! Anyway, the car is still running great. Love, Barry.

En Route to Malaga - 11/15/84
Postcard Picture is 5 views of Seville - Hello Linda, I left Portugal trying to forget my bad experiences there and remember only the good. Unfortunately, my first day here in Seville ended with another theft. About $30 in cash and 2 assaults. I fought well the first time and drove the bastard off, but he came right back with his friends, about 8 of them and I didn't do very well. Anyway, I am OK, but very tired of Policia stations. I was very angry, so this morning I went back to town looking for the bastards and I found 2 of them drinking in a bar. Ran and got the police, and they are now safely behind bars, but my money is still gone. Oh well, I did my best. Most of the people here are very nice, but there are lots of thieves. At the Policia, just when I was there, there were at least 20 tourist who had lost EVERYTHING. They were all very proud of me, as were the police, for helping catch “my” crooks. It made me feel better anyway. I miss northern Europe. This place is getting on my nerves. At least the car is doing OK. Robbed two times in less than one week, I don't recommend southern Europe, at least Spain and Portugal, to any but the sturdiest tourists. Now I am just waiting to get my mail and get out of Spain. On to Andorra, Monaco, Italy and Greece. Can't handle Morocco or Turkey after all of this anyway, nor can I afford to get there. I keep my new switchblade handy, along with a big rock. Anybody else gives me a cross eyed look, they are finished. Don't mean to sound paranoid and gloomy, but you can't believe the poverty and terrible conditions that breed all these petty thieves. Anyway, I am well, I miss you and will write again soon. Love, Barry.

En Route to Malaga  - 11/16/84
Friday - Time Unknown - It is now officially TODAY! I am caught up with my journal finally and feel glad about that. Visited Cadiz this morning, changed my Swiss francs for Spanish money, mailed and bought postcards, one each for Mom and Linda. Bought a Spanish lighter like Phong use to have at V.C.U. Then continued south along the coast and east towards Malaga. Hit fierce driving rain and decided to wait it out a while at a bar, where I am now sitting and writing this journal. I would like to thank Gillian for the use of her journal, which was not stolen, in helping me to reconstruct mine. I should also mention that about one week prior to the first incident, she copied most of the addresses of the people we stay with while we were traveling together. So I have managed to salvage quite a bit, with her help. This journal and about one third to one half of my addresses. Everything is a help, a little is much better than none. Thanks again for your help GH. Later. BLF.
 

La Carihuela - 11/17/84
Saturday - 8:30 p.m. - Slept in the car once again last night, just out between Algeciras and Gibraltar. When we sleep in the car, I always get the front seat. I wish we had an automatic transmission. (The gear shift is nasty and impossible to completely avoid). As usual, it seems it rained most of yesterday and last night. In Algaciras we looked in to 3 and 7 day trips to Morocco, but they were too expensive. They were actually reasonable, about $200 complete for 7 days, but that much is out of the question for me. I thought of charging it for awhile, but then I might need the card for other things. So Morocco is out (for now). Oh well. Improvised a system of curtains to cover the windows while we are sleeping. I string a line around the car, and using my little clips to hold up towels and plastic bags all the way around. Drove to Gibraltar this morning to see “The Rock” and I wanted to mail a piece home to the folks at the Prudential Insurance Company. GH took a bunch of pictures and got so excited I think she had 3 orgasms. The Mediterranean is pretty, but with all the rain it feels cold,  the waves are rough and the undercurrent is powerful.  We bought groceries, we even treated ourselves to a bottle of mustard, what a luxury. and set out for Torremolinos. Arrived of course, in the rain and had a walk around. Very nice, I imagine in the summer it is wild. The restaurants look good. Shrimp 3 inches thick and 6 long, lots of fish, lobster, crabs, shell fish of all kinds, etc. Many of the cafe's display the seafood in wooden boats filled with ice and placed right out front to catch your eye. Too expensive for us though. Watched a windsurfer battle the wind for awhile, bought a bottle of Sangria and returned to the car. We have decided to rest here a few days, as we must kill some time before so we get to Madrid for insurance and mail near the end of the month. Ate sandwiches with mustard, played chess, read and fooled around near the beach for awhile. It is now 8:30, we are thinking about going to the English pub. Not much else for now. Later. BLF.
PS - There are palm trees everywhere along the coast from Algarve Portugal to here. Very Pretty. Very Nice.

La Carihuela - 11/19/84
Monday - 5:00 p.m. - Saturday night we went to the English pub, and it was great. Met a huge, fat, rich American obsessed with buying a mobile home. He bought us lots of drinks. Also met a big Welshman, a rugby player, a small Englishman and various others. Great time for all, and when we left the owner gave me a bar towel to go with my collection. Then we parked the car in a nice hotel parking lot, put up the “curtains” and got ready for sleep. GH and I got in a big fight, and I left for awhile and went to get another drink and sort things out, but everything was closed. Next morning, the owner of the hotel invited us in to use the toilettes, gave us coffee and let us leave the car on his lot while we went  to the beach to enjoy some sun. Nice weather, clear, warm and not too windy. Left the beach about 5 and I went to Rosie O'Grady's Irish pub to use the bathroom. Ended up ordering a half pint and watching “Scanners” on video. Back to the car for a sandwich. Felt like taking a nice hot shower, so we took towels, soap, shampoo etc. and went off for the English pub about 9. It was closed so we went to Rosie O'Grady's and ordered a drink. Met a large Canadian, an old English couple and a Scotsman. All friendly and interesting. Talked about WW I and II, politics and current events, education, economy, drinking and assorted light topics and bar jokes. Then, the conversation drifted to a discussion about the trip, eventually leading up to the showers we needed to find. The Canadian, Jerry, who had been buying many of our drinks invited us to his hotel. Also said we could use the clothes washing machine at the hotel. So we went back to the car to gather dirty laundry, stopped and bought a bottle of Sangria for him too. Then at the hotel we started the wash and each got a great shower - plenty of water pressure and nice and hot! After the clothes were finished, we all went out for dinner. I had rockfish, shrimp, clams and mussels. Gillian had swordfish and Jerry had steak. We also had a big salad. Very excellent food. We had walked by this restaurant salivating through the windows at the display of food, and now we were, for free too. Thanks Jerry. The waitress was particularly nice and I made arrangements to meet her today so she could write a postcard in Spanish for me to send to the Virginia Department of Taxation. They will get a kick out of that. I also bought a Torremolinos T-shirt with a bull fighter and Costa Del Sol on it. A nice souvenir. Lay on the beach for a couple hours, played chess and read. Took Jerry out for coffee this morning as he was a little hung over and I am sure he enjoyed that. All in all, a nice day. Thinks we will stay in his suite again tonight, maybe he will even take us out to dinner again. It is on his expense account anyway I think. We are supposed to meet up with him at the piano bar across the street from his hotel around 6. Not much else to write for now, hope the weather holds out. Later. BLF.

La Carihuela - 11/20/84
Tuesday - 4:00 p.m. - Excellent weather! Last night, we met Gerald and went to the Black Cat pub for some drinks, as my favorite English pub was closed again. It was nice, met some interesting people and drank some good pints of ale. Then, out to dinner (yay), but it was not as good as last nights, not even close. We should have gone back to the same restaurant. Then, back to the English pub, same crowd as before, including The Fat Man. Then, to a Flamenco bar. Lots of fun, lots of beers. At the end, talking to a nice English couple and 2 shitty Irishmen. Almost got in a fight with the Irish, but they were not worth the effort. They did annoy all 3 of us though. Oh yeah, during the show the dancer came out and grabbed me from the crowd, pulled me up to the stage to dance with her, or really to stand there while she stomped all around me. Embarrassing, but kind of fun. I did not have a clue what I was supposed to do, but I guess I faked it OK.  My favorite part is the violent, loud foot stomping, and the castanets. Then, back to Jerry's hotel, a little late night conversation and then sleep. Up about 8:30 this morning, showered, shaved packed and came to Tourmalines. Nice town, bought a poster of a bull fight with my name printed on it as the star matador. It is silly, but it cost less than a dollar, so - what the hell. Lay on the beach about 4 hours or so, finished reading “August”, a terrible and boring book. Played some chess, watched dump trucks and bulldozers re-building the beach. Also watched fishermen doing their thing. Water is very cold, but pleasant weather mostly. Not much else for now. BLF.

La Carihuela - 11/22/84
Thursday - 9:00 a.m. - We are back in our friendly beach town now, just a few miles to the west of Torremolinos. Went off the beach about 4 Tuesday afternoon, due to increased winds, and the sudden appearance of a swarm of flies and German tourists. Took a nap in Thomasina and then drove to buy groceries. Went to a small pub and read Timothy Leary's “Confessions of a hope fiend” for awhile. Then parked at an apartment building for the night and slept in the car again. Next morning I drove to Malaga. Totally unimpressed. Big city, rip-off atmosphere. Had trouble finding a place that would let us use the toilettes, so finally just used them in a pension even after they said we couldn't. What could they do to me if I did take an un-authorized leak, anyway? Found the bull ring and walked around inside it. But, there are no bull fights this time of year. Drag, I really wanted to see one. Oh well. Drove back to this town about 4:30 and read till dark. Then went to Rosie O'Grady's to drink a beer. Watched the video “From Russia With Love” and then parked at Los Palemos hotel. GH went to sleep and I went to my favorite - The Brahms & List English pub for a farewell beer. Regulars were all there. Then the Black Cat. Regulars were all there also. Drank 3 pints and closed the place down. Wonderful weather again today, hot and clear. Shaved and cleaned up in the hotel and today we go to Rhonda, then Granada. I think today is Thanksgiving day . Boy, I wish I were going to have that big turkey dinner. I will miss it this year. Not much else for now, time to hit the road. Later. BLF.

La Carihuela - 11/22/84
Thursday - Evening Supplement - Still in the parking lot at the hotel Las Palemos - the weather was so extraordinary that after cleaning up and buying food (including ham for thanksgiving dinner sandwiches, we decided we would be fools to leave the beach. Lay in the SUN turning golden brown, and two times when I got too hot I ran in to the ocean and swam in the cold, cold waters of the Mediterranean. About 5, used the shower on the beach, washed, shampooed, shaved etc. Now relaxing in the car and getting ready to eat while GH is out buying film. If it is this nice again tomorrow, I plan to spend the day on the beach again. Otherwise, on to Rhonda. Later. BLF.

La Carihuela - 11/23/84
Friday - Time Unknown -  Sunny and warm this morning, with an interesting afternoon mist. Last night, went to Rosie O'Grady's to play darts. Watched the film “When A Stranger Calls”, met an English couple - he retired from C.I.D., who bought beers while we played dominoes. Then, about 11:30 they left and Matthew, the Irish owner/operator got real shitty. He tried his best to get me to start a fist fight with him, I think so two of his friends could have some fun. I have other plans for old Matt. Anyway, fair weather today, enjoyed Gillians birthday lying on the beach. Then went for a swim in the heated indoor hotel pool at the other end of the beach, next to the Tropicana. Bought Groceries, including twinkies and a candle for a birthday cake for GH. It is getting dark now, and not much else to write about lying on a beach. Later. BLF.

La Carihuela - 11/25/84
Sunday - 11:30 a.m. - Again, it is hot and sunny. Friday night, we went to the Black Cat and John & Ron kept buying drinks for us. About 11 or so, a man and his well dressed chimp came in and he ordered two beers. The chimp climbed up a stool and drank with the rest of us. This is not a joke. I played with the monkey a bit, real neat!! He stole a lemon from a ladies drink, but otherwise he was very well behaved. Picked up a pen and paper from the bar and drew pictures, clearly delighted with itself. Saturday was great weather, perhaps the best we have seen. Met John for coffee at 11 and he gave us a travel guide to Spain and information on overland Africa trips. It was nice and after he left, we went to the beach for the day. Took a dip in the sea. Tried to read Philip Roth “ The Great American Novel” but so far it is not very good. Hope it gets better. Alas, spent most of the day at the beach hunting big game flies. About 5:30 went back to the indoor pool and had a real nice swim. Taught GH to swim and after an hour or so ran in to Jack and Eileen. Talked with them awhile. Went to the Tropicana to shave and clean up, then decided, what the hell and charged a nice dinner for thanksgiving and Gillians birthday. Went to our friendly restaurant and it was great. Bottle of wine, mixed hors d’oeuvres and a huge delicious entree. Added 1,000 pesetas for me and 300 for a tip and it came to 2960.00 pesetas. Less than $20 American. Not bad, till Mom gets the bill anyway. Then, on to the Black Cat, gave John his books back. I bought John and Ron each a drink. Ron and his wife leave today. The bar was fairly crowded last night, drank several beers, only had to buy two. Not bad. Today it is gorgeous and I am ready to go back to work on my suntan. Later. BLF.

La Carihuela - 11/26/84
Monday - 1:00 p.m. - Overcast and warm. Preparing to depart La Carihuela   after 9 days of sun and fun. Yesterday, lye on the beach till 4 ish, then swim in indoor pool for one hour. Sun on the deck and read more of The Great American Novel, which is improving. Then bought groceries, ate by the car and napped till 9. Up and to Las Palomos bathrooms to clean myself up a bit, then to the Black Cat. Played dominoes and hearts. The bartender gave me a couple beers. John bought me another, and I made a new British friend Dave, who also bought me a couple. I am a lucky guy. Very nice. Back to the car about 1 to go to sleep, up this morning about 8:30. Weather not great, so it is a good time to leave. Spent the last of my money on stamps to write home, said goodbye to the waitress at La Anclu and my friends at the Black Cat. Lunch now, then hit the road. Later. BLF.

La Carihuela - 11/26/84
Postcard Picture is an aerial view of the coast at Torremolinos - Hello Linda, it's me. I have been lying on the beaches in this area for about a week now. The weather has been sunny and warm. I even have a decent sun tan again. No more problems lately, hope I have finished with my bad luck. Did you see the card I sent the tax department written in Spanish? I had a friend at the Black Cat pub write it for me. Hope Caruca and Greazy get a kick out of it. I am leaving the beach today and beginning back north. Looking forward to mail in Madrid. I missed Thanksgiving and wish I had been with you. We would have had a big turkey dinner with all the extras. They don't know much about T day here. I went to a seafood restaurant instead and it was very good. I miss you more than ever. Take care, stay well. Hope school is OK. I will write again soon, Love, Barry.
PS- Car is doing well. Wish you were here. Mediterranean is a beautiful ocean, but very cold for swimming without you to share it with me.
PPS- I got a bullfight poster with my name as the star matador. Also, next mail address will probably be Tel Aviv. I will let you know.

La Carihuela - 11/26/84
Postcard Picture is 4 views of La Carihuela - Hello Mom and Eddie, yes I am fine and have not had any more problems. YAY! Missed all on Thanksgiving, but I went to a seafood restaurant and ate my “big” dinner on AMEX. Spent the last 9 days in this town soaking up sun and surf. Tell CJ it might be as far north as New York, but the weather is splendid. Visited Malaga and Torremolinos one day, as it is a half hour drive at most, and you were right, there is nothing there really. I did get a bullfight poster with my name as the matador though. Looking forward to mail in Madrid, also should be getting insurance reimbursement check for some of the losses. Not sure yet, but Tel Aviv will probably be next mailing address, as I don't trust the post in Italy and Greece, and will probably arrive in Israel within a month and a half or so. The car makes travel much faster, so probably 2 to 3 weeks in Italy, 2 or 3 day drive to Greece and then 2 to 3 weeks in Greece. Then Israel. I will write again soon, and let you know for sure. Again, all is well here, I am well rested and sun tanned again, and ready to push on. Say hello to all, Love, Barry.
PS - Tell CJ the Herald Tribune prints the football scores on Tuesdays. He was right! Say hello to Jill too.

Rhonda - 11/27/84
Tuesday - 10 a.m. - Set out finally about 2 yesterday and arrived about 4:30. Beautiful drive along the coast, and then up, up, up in to the mountains. Pretty barren scenery. The car did well going up. Nice town, perched on a hill amongst mountains. At either side of town is a sheer drop three to four hundred feet straight down. Beautiful view. Nice pedestrian streets. Arrived with no cash and could not find a cambro open anywhere. GH finally found the hotel Victoria, and we figured maybe they would cash a check for me.  They did, so we got 10 pounds changed to pesetas, then went and bought groceries. Went to see the magnificent bull ring, but decided not to pay to get in to a see the inside as there were no fights, just admission for tours. I will not pay to see a bull ring unless there is to be a bull fight. Found a place to park for the night in a small residential area and turned in about 9:30, will explore some more today, then off for Granada this afternoon. Later. BLF.

Tuesday - Evening Supplement - 7:30 p.m. - On the road now, about 80 k from Cordoba. Looked around Rhonda a couple more hours this morning, then drove to Compilos for pit stop and look around. Then, Gillian drove the car for the first time, 30 K to Antequera. A very hilly town, scenic and OK, but nothing spectacular. Visited some caves on the outskirts that were built back in pre-historic times. Rather small and boring, but considering they were built rather than naturally formed, they were OK and well worth seeing. Gassed up Thomasina, bought a gallon can of motor oil and decided to skip Granada or Cordoba as they are in opposing directions for our purposes. So, we are heading for Cordoba. All in all rather disappointed in Spain. Dirty, very dirty. Poor, but it seems no one cares very much, let alone work hard. They seem to drink, spit, lie, cheat and steal and fight all day. And buy lottery tickets. In the poorest and smallest villages, there are at least 10 lottery people selling tickets on every corner, screaming out the sales pitch at the top of their lungs.  The scenery is on a grand scale for sure, but an aura of filth and poverty is always visible. Slot machines and cured legs of pork hanging with flies swarming around are everywhere. Ignorance is everywhere. Ask for someone to speak English and they just speak away in Spanish, as though you will understand. But I guess Americans are guilty of that too. Anyway, it goes on and on. At this point, I am looking forward to Italy. Later. BLF.
PS-wonder how the Redskins are doing this year? Self"

En route to Cordoba - 11/27/84
Postcard Picture is an aerial view of the city Rhonda - Hello again Linda! Things are going OK. Getting tired of Spain and eager to Italy, Greece and the continent. Rhonda was a very nice town, old - the oldest in Spain - bullring, lot's of sights, etc. I am on my way to Cordoba at the Moment, just stopped for a pit stop to rest the car and grab a beer. Is Scott back in the states, have you heard from him? After Madrid and Barcelona, I will stop in Andorra, Monaco, then through to Italy for 2 to 3 weeks. Then Greece for about the same. Then will either fly, sail or drive to Israel. Probably one or two months there, with a few days in Egypt when I get a chance. Then you will wake up and find a blue tent with a big empty space Pour Vous. Assuming my tent doesn't get stolen. Miss you more than ever. Say hello to all. Best of luck in school, work and play. Tell the tax department Spain is not all it is cracked up to be. The coast is great, the rest is strictly 2nd or even 3rd class. Love, Barry.
PS Will let you know next mail address for certain when I get to Madrid and see what the news is. Say hello to Jill. Love, Barry.

Exact Location Unknown - 11/28/84
Wednesday - 9:00 p.m. - On the road, 78 K or so from Madrid, mail and money. Slept just outside Cordoba last night, in sight of the lights of the city. Up about 8:30 this morning to a clear, sunny and cool day. Drove to the outskirts of the old city and paid the inescapable capped parking lot attendants to watch the car. Old city, with narrow streets. Lovely. Very nice. The Mosque was superb, I climbed the bell tower and got an excellent view of the city. Wandered around an hour or two and then ended up in the new city. Went to Caja Postal and bought stamps and airmail stickers (finally). Also picked up contact cleaning solution and a case for my eyeglasses. Wandered around another hour or two and then bought groceries and headed back to our car. Started towards Madrid hoping to travel overnight, arrive and sleep on the outskirts of the city for a few hours late tonight. About halfway to here, Thomasina broke down on one of the killer hills. We limped to a garage in first gear, as there was one in sight about 500 meters up the road - lucky again -, but they wouldn't look at it. They were too busy, all 8 mechanics, on one car and a dog. Just as well, as after an hour of rest, she was up and running good as new. We have come another 200 K's and are now very near our goal. Looking forward to mail, and Gillian to insurance money. Hope there are no delays or run arounds. Not much else for now. Later. BLF.

Madrid - 11/29/84
Thursday - 9:00 p.m. - Woke up at 9 this morning. Brrrr, cold. Ice on the windows. Drove 4 k to the beginning of Madrid’s New York like traffic and parked, after a hot cup of coffee from a place near where we  slept. Got directions to Commercial Union insurance office and AMEX at a hotel. They also gave us a free city map. Very nice. We needed it. Madrid is huge. It is the first city in Spain or Portugal that I fell in love with. Magnificent. But, on with the story. Two buses got us near enough to find CU insurance. After about half an hour, they insisted we would have to return for a check tomorrow. I told them they were wrong. We got a check for 75,000 pesetas, before 2 p.m. amazingly enough, with in two minutes of when the banks close. No surprise there. Then, went to AMEX and got mail, but there are lots of things missing. A package Linda say's she sent, a letter from CJ, the title to the car and who knows what else that we  were not expecting. Going back tomorrow and check again. I did get 2 from Jill (with cat stamps and CWO stickers), 3 from Linda (including 5 photos of her, Sherry, Jill, Geronimo, etc.), 2 from Mom and Eddie, 1 from grandmother (with a $20 bill “because Grandpop was in the shower”), (THANKS GRANDMOTHER - This $20 really means a lot right now!) one from Mom-Mom and one small anonymous package. Very nice. Then to Wendy's for lunch, we were starved. Ate and read. Ate and read more. Then, hunt out a pension where we could have a shower. Clean again! Then saw the most fantastic Christmas displays I have ever seen. They included jungle animated robots - writhing, singing, showering around an entire city block in front of a huge department store. Also street artists, musicians, beggars, vendors, etc. Then just walked aimlessly 3 or 4 hours. Lovely, lovely city. Then, subway ride to our car. Seems to be efficient, if antiquated, subway. There is not 3rd rail, but rather overhead cables like a street car. Neat, cheap and fast. Left about 8:30 to come back to extreme outskirts. Looking through a neighborhood and the road just ended. Flew the car over the curb and into an empty lot at maybe 25 to 35 miles an hour. (Laughing at me?). It reminded me of the night we got lost and I ended up on a pedestrian staircase, driving down a long, steep flight of stairs. It could happen to anybody! (In Spain, at night, cold sober) Guess that is it for now, it is enough. I am now going to enjoy a beer and a smoke. Later. BLF. - Oh yeah, I am now in financial straits. I have used up my AMEX limit and don't know what to do about getting to Israel. “What, Me Worry” - Alfred E. Newman. Maybe manyana. It's Miller time now. BLF.

Madrid - 11/30/84
Friday - 9:00 p.m. - Heavy rain. Just North of Madrid now, up about 9:30 this morning, cup of coffee in some pub. We went for drinks there last night and it was fun. 25 pesetas gets you a nice cold beer and steaming hot hors D’oeuvres. 25 pesetas = .15 cents U.S. ($1=161ps). Anyway, after cleaning up and heading in to town, we went to a hotel and got directions to Banko Urqulijo and took the subway there. Of course, when we arrived, the bank wasn't there. In fact, there wasn't even a building within a block either way. Asked two people for directions and they each pointed in opposite courses. Decided to go best of three and followed the 3rd persons advice and at least found our way to the banking and financial district. There is at least 6 of every bank in the world, except the one we needed/wanted. By 1one we were panicking, and to summarize our goose chase - we asked a total of 16 people directions in about a two hour period and still walked around (in circles nearly) through the whole area and back. At 1:15 we went to AMEX and made them triple check the address in the phone book, hand write directions and draw a map. And we made them sign it, for future vengeance purposes (our idea, and a darn good  one I think) Then finally around 1:30 we found the right bank, nowhere near where anyone else had told us to actually look for it. Typical. We spent 20 minutes waiting in line, and then the teller took one look at the check and refused to cash it. They said we must take it to the issuing branch across town. I got mad, they said come back Monday. I told them to cash the $%#^&( check. This is a polite version of what actually happened.  Finally, ten minutes or so after they had locked their doors we got in to the fxxing managers office. (I hate banks and insurance companies.) He pretended not to speak a word of English, until I made some casual comments about his mother and sister in various acts. Then, in perfect English, he threatened to call the police. His mistake. I had him now. I gave him 3 choices; 1) cash the check immediately or 2) taxi us to the other bank branch and have them cash it, or 3) Put us up in a hotel until Monday. He choose option number two. He called the other branch and told them to expect us. Then he said we had ten minutes to cross town. It was already 2:30 at this point, and (this is my favorite part) I said “Fine, let's go”,  to which he said  “you go” and I said  “I don't trust you and either you cash the check here or escort us through the locked doors of the bank that has already been closed for thirty minutes and get us to and in the other branch in 10 minutes or less”.  By the way, it is impossible to cross Madrid in 20 minutes, even if you fly, much less in ten.  Finally, he called an officer of the bank, who got us a taxi across town and rode to the bank. We tried to get in, and it took our officer of the bank ten minutes to convince them to open the door. So much for trust. Anyway, we got 75,942 pesetas - cash and went to Pizza Hut - “The Hut” for lunch. Excellent. Then to AMEX (as if we had not already had enough fun for one day) where we learned that you can not buy travelers checks of any kind in Spain. Another half hour managerial conference, but it seems that there is a national law to that effect in Spain, and so like it or not we are stuck with Spanish cash to trade in France for Francs, then dollars, then travelers checks. We will be lucky if we arrive without being robbed again, and if there is anything left of the money after we change it 3 times and pay commissions on the checks. Such is life.  Meanwhile, it was now pouring rain. I got a letter from CJ postmarked one full week before much of the other mail I got yesterday. Strange, but what the f*(&k, it's typical here. They couldn't find anything else, so goodness knows what become of it. I sure don't. After AMEX, we went to the Prado art gallery. Excellent, Excellent! They didn't have postcards of any of my favorite paintings. I even looked at the official book and they were not listed. Guess I have real bad taste. All in all, a superb museum. El Greco, Rubens, Goya and more. Much more. Then left by subway to car, headed for Burgos for the papers to the car. Got lost due to poor visibility, fog, rain and most of all the worst marked roads in the world. Or nearly. So now, back to Burgos and then out of Spain in a day or two. BLF.

Exact Location Unknown - 12/1/84
Saturday - 6:00 p.m. - Heading East to Barcelona. Only made 50 K's last night as it changed from rain, to hail, to snow. Slept in the car. Arrived in Burgos and found Thomas. He had the papers for the car, and we took him out for a drink. He was happy to see us, but he seemed a bit preoccupied, even troubled. Wonder why? Then we left, headed east. Weather is cold, with rain and snow flurries. Car is doing well. Not much else. BLF.

Lerida - 12/2/84
Sunday - 10:00 p.m. - Sunny, clear and crispy cool, we are on the way to Barcelona, about 150 K west of here. After last nights entry, drove another 200 k or so. Going through Zaragoza, a huge city. Nearly as big as Madrid by appearances. We stopped at a big grocery store. Big is not an adequate adjective., nor is huge. It was monstrous. Anyway, as big as it was, there were more people than there was room for. They had 30 to 40 checkout lines open. It was impossible to cross the store in under about 8 minutes. It was unreal. They were out of bread and waiting for more to come out of the oven. We didn't wait. Drove along and finally, just outside of Lerida stopped at the Peacock Disco & Roadside Cafe' for some eats. Hamburg, and some Spanish type sub, they were both substandard, out and out awful. Then a few blocks to a gas station - Hotel. Parked and slept. Now on to Madrid. BLF.
PS- enjoyed a car travel classic sing along today, including such great songs as “Once an Austrian went Yodeling”, the “Eden” song from Star Trek, Mr. Bojangles and many more.

Evening Supplement - Enjoyed Barcelona very much. GH had a caricature drawn. We visited the Columbus monument & flagship Santa Maria. Looked through the red light district, decided to market a line of international emblem T-shirts of major cities all over the world, i.e. Amsterdam, Paris, Malaga etc. Perhaps through stores like Spencers Gifts etc. Wrote to Mom & Eddie, Eddie for his birthday, also Jill, Linda and a tacky card to the tax department. Traffic to Andorra is very heavy and the road is worse than a donkey trail. Barcelona deserved more time, but we both want to press on. Lovely cathedral, but a lot of very ugly buildings as well. Can't get used to  the Spanish police and their machine guns. Oh well, with a bit of luck & less traffic I will be out of Spain tonight. One month is enough. Not much else for now. Later. BLF.

Barcelona - 12/2/84
Postcard Picture is 12 views of Barcelona - Hello Eddie, I don't know how I forgot, but better late than never - Happy Birthday! Sorry, but I guess I don't have a good memory for dates and such. I will be sending some things home soon and will put some nice cigars in for you. Things are going well here, the car is great! The weather is OK, although we had some snow yesterday here in sunny Spain. Hope you had a nice birthday and got lot's of presants, chocolate cake, etc. Are you managing Mom, Jill and Badness Cisenfeld the first OK with out my help? I miss you and think of you often, really wish you were here with me. In any case, I will see you soon, but take it easy in the mean time, and don't work too hard. ** Happy birthday to you, Happy birthday to you. Happy birthday dear Eddddddddieeeee, happy birthday to you! Blow out the candles - hope your wishes come true. Love, Barry.   PS- I can't sing very well, you'll have to excuse me. Eddie is - #1 Dad"
** editors note: musical symbols and notes not available on the keyboard appear next.

Barcelona - 12/2/84
Postcard Picture is 6 views of Cordoba - Dear Mom & Eddie, I will try and write this neatly and only in the proper spaces, as you request in your letter. I got 2 of your letters, as well as one from CJ and two from Jill. Also grandmothers. Please thank her for me. Very relieved that you have received journal #1. I have a new one now, book #4, and have done my best to rewrite the missing section from book#3. Thanks for the insurance. Why won't they pay for the lost contact lens, you now have the receipt? I have charged a thanksgiving dinner as I thought I had the money there to cover it, in fact I should. Will not be using the card again, except possibly for air travel to Tel Aviv, about $99 dollars, and then airfare home. If I use the card for such, please sell Wyly stocks to cover it. I would hate to miss Israel over just one hundred dollars. I will earn the money to pay for my return trip as soon as I return. Money is getting tight so I will not be phoning home anymore, but I will try and signal. Next mail address is Tel Aviv around mid January or later. Address to hold till end of February. Insurance has been settled in Madrid and I have been reimbursed for much of what I lost. I also heard many bad stories about Morocco, and am now glad to have missed it. I am careful here and get along very well by and large. Don't worry, I know this is not the USA and have no intention of going to jail. You did not mention the car in your letters? Any thoughts on the subject? In Barcelona  today, 2 December 1984 and heading for Andorra, Monaco and Italy in near future. Thanks for the addresses. Still having a great time. Miss you all and expect to see you in a few months. Say hello to all. Are you letting Jill's cat come home for break? It will keep Joel company! Love, Barry.
PS- Hope the postmark is near the stamp this time, and not over the writing again!

Lerida - 12/2/84
Postcard Picture is 8 views of Barcelona - Hello Jill, loved your cat stamped letters - also the CWO sticker. My CWO game got stolen. Geronimo sounds great, dying to meet (her?). Put in a good word with Mom on my last card about “the keeping Joelle amused over break angle”. Are you still at school, or is this card in the mountains waiting for you? Tell your friends I am NOT non-existent. I exist! I am B4. Sounds like you are having a good time at school, and studying spelling as well. Incredible. I can't wait to see Geronimo do a kitty flip. Have you taught her to sing Tiny boo boo's? Must be a smart cat, obviously has great taste in music. I am still having a fantastic voyage. Hard to believe I have been away this long. Time flies. I missed thanksgiving very much. Oh well, I also missed the 4th of July, what the hell. Spain has been nice, but it snowed last night and is pretty cold here. Guess I will sign off now and leave room for PS's. Love, Barry.
PS#1- Running low on money, so the PS ration will be strictly enforced from now on. Sorry for any inconvenience this may cause. The management.
PS#2 - I love and miss you! Write me in Tel Aviv.
PS#3 OOP’s, I can't afford 3 PS's, sorry. "

Leered - 12/2/84
Postcard Picture is an illustration of a Matador - Hello Linda, first things first. I miss you, I end each day thinking of you before I fall asleep. I was not annoyed on the phone and enjoyed talking to you and Jill. I was annoyed at the bill. Because we talked so long (and I did enjoy it) I will not be able to afford to call you again for Christmas or your birthday. I am  running very low on money now. Anyway, I got 3 of your letters in Madrid 30 November, but not the package you mentioned. I did get a letter from our friend Joe. Very Nice. !! I needed to “hear” that. Replies to your letters; My knee is better. I left my experimental methods paper with you, and have no suggestions to help, sorry. Glad you enjoyed Jill’s party, I loved the pictures you beautiful thing. Jill wrote also, please thank your dad for me. Bagels and brownies both, he won Jill’s heart forever. Thanks Mr. C!  Sorry Mikey doesn't like the navy, but that's typical... who does? Instead of a pet tiger, how about a white chimp? Sorry about the clock, send it back to Switzerland if you must, it is guaranteed and I am sure they will fix it. (Sorry Mr. C - I didn't know you are a light sleeper, or I would have sent anything else.) I will go to New York and Canada with you if you wait. Otherwise we'll see Mexico together. The car is a Citroen B and has 2 cylinders, 4 speeds, air cooled, front wheel drive, tan color, no rust, 30-35 mpg, 9 years old and it makes a cozy apartment too. I would bring it home, but I am certain it does not meet EPA standards for the USA It does get cold in the north. It snowed last night near Barcelona and was very cold. Wish you were here to warm my nose. Scott? What can I say? Hope you are enjoying your x-mas break. You are not a horse, but you do work hard. My next mail address is Tel Aviv, Israel around mid January, but address to hold until the end of February. Can't wait to hear from you again there. Now that you have your answers, an interesting story about the “Gypsy” life and the car. Driving through Madrid, I made a mistake and ended up on a pedestrian street (No cars allowed). I drove down a staircase and over a curb, another staircase and back to the street. It could happen to anyone on the donkey trails they call roads here, and I was stone cold sober! But the car is tough and can take it. The pedestrians were quick, and got out of my way nicely. I am leaving Spain tonight. I am about 100 k's south of Andorra. I will bet $5 on the house wheel at Monte Carlo in Monaco soon. Hope I win! I miss you very much. I will call collect sometime if you want to accept the charges. I will pay you back after I return. Take care and stay well for me, I want you to be in good shape when I come back. Tell Mr. C I have more money making ideas. Love, Barry.

Andoraville - 12/3/84
Monday - Time unknown - Arrived in Andorra about 11 last night, in a small town 15 Klicks south of Andoraville. Slept in the car, completely worn out from the curvy, dangerous roads. Very cold. Looked about the town this morning. Beautiful country. Every store accepts pesetas, francs, dollars. There are 3 tills in every cash register. Whew. Changed our Spanish money Francs, bought a new camera, 4 cartons of cheap ciggs, and a switchblade. Also groceries. Good prices and no taxes. Seems like the country is a big shopping center perched in the Pyrenees mountains. Very clean and friendly place. Cold, cold, cold. Left about 6 this evening and made about 50 k up the mountains. It was snowing like mad. At least 3 feet of snow has already accumulated along the side of the road. Uphill was bad, downhill even worse, but the car did very well. I love front wheel drive. In France, we stopped at a hotel in the valley and decided to stay the night here. Might even eat in the restaurant as a “survived the mountain crossing” bonus. Sent CJ and Mom-Mom postcards from Andorra. Not much else for now. BLF.

Andoraville - 12/3/84
Postcard Picture is 6 views and a map of Andorra - Hello from Andorra. Loved your letter, especially the Hispanic Americans stamp. Very appropriate. Enjoyed Spain and Portugal. Very good beach and swimming weather in the south. Cold and snow in the north. A car? Yes - a Citroen B, 35 mpg, air cooled, front wheel drive, 2 cylinder. $352.18 including title, tags, taxes and 3 months insurance. No rust, runs like a charm (for now), white headlight on one side, yellow on the other.  Following the Skin's here, scores in Tribune on Wednesdays now. Saw a Sony watchman here in tax free Andorra. Very nice. Glad to hear things are going so well. My mouth is still in one piece, but I will bring it to you when I get back so it will be healthy. Next mail address Tel Aviv, Mom has dates. Sorry about picture of Harry's New York bar trash can. If I pass through Paris again, I will get another one. The French DO pronounce the R in LouvRe, by the way. Good thing you are not here today, I need a shower and a Laundromat badly. Hard to find either in Spain. Take care, make lot's of happy, healthy mouths and stay well. Your Brother, Barry.
PS- Grandmother wrote about Cindy Schwecky again. Oh well. She also sent $20 again too. Yay!
NOTE IN CORNER- GH says Hello! CJ

Nice - 12/5/84
Wednesday - 10:00 p.m. - Up about 9 yesterday morning to a beautiful day. We did decide to eat in the hotel restaurant Monday night, and had meatballs, veggies, salad etc. Water to drink, never enjoyed H2O so much! (missed being able to drink simple, free water for the last month). Anyway, we left about 9:30 yesterday morning and drove about 250 Klicks over mediocre roads. Then the car overheated and acted funny again. Took it to a mechanic. He found oil in the air filter. We changed it, got a new headlight and changed the plugs. It is only 2, for this tiny 2 cylinder. I like the yellow light better than the white one. I must tell CJ We have one yellow headlight now, and one remaining white one. We must be quite a sight coming down the road. Anyway, the car is running super now! We arrived in Nice via the Paege highway. It cost about $6 in tolls, but saved us at least 150 Klicks through more mountains. Today, Nice - should be good.

Nice - 12/5/84
Postcard Picture is 8 views of Nice - Hello Linda, Bon jour mon cher ami!  I am on the French riviera enjoying some sun and psyching up for a make or break visit to casino Monte Carlo! Crossing the Pyrenees mountains out of Spain and in to Andorra there was beaucoup de snow. Loved Andorra, particularly the city of Andorra. Even worse snow crossing the mountains from there to France. Thank goodness for front wheel drive, or my little 2 cylinder Citroen would have plunged through the chicken wire guard rail to certain doom. Weather here along the coast is exceptional. Warm, clear, sunny. I wish you were here. I will write from Monaco, but after that is Italy and I fear that whatever I write might take months or even years to arrive. I will write anyway, but I just wanted to warn you - if you don’t hear from me for awhile, it is not my fault, it is the Italian post office. Hope all is well there and you are enjoying the holiday season. Say hello to Mr. C and Joan too. Take care of yourself and don't watch too much General Hospital on TV  over the holidays. Do you ever see any of my friends over at the Cimerron Rose? Is it doing well or going down hill? Oh well, all my love, Barry.
PS - White monkeys are much too expensive. I will try and think of something else, OK?

Monte Carlo - 12/6/84
Thursday - 9:30 a.m.- Weather yesterday and today is just perfect. Love, from the French riviera! Walked along the coast through Nice yesterday. Dropped Gillian's film at a one hour photo shop. Looked around the market and the old city. Very nice view. Then the pedestrian streets. Ate a QuickBurger for lunch. Bought Eddie the best Cuban cigars I could find, about $2.50 each. Mailed them home along with my Spanish lighter, bull fighter poster, pizza hut mat and a letter. Bought the book “The Winds of War” and it's sequel at a used book store. Then headed for Monaco. The road was closed and we had to take a detour. Filled up with gas when we arrived, it's no cheaper than France though. Then found a good place to park. I put on my pair of “nice” pants and my button-up shirt. Then we made a sandwich. Then, Les Casino. A beautiful building, all lit up and very ritzy. Lot's of Porsches and Rolls Royce’s and all the really great cars around and about. Especially in the casino parking lot. From this point, it was like a dream come true. I decided I could not pass through without placing a bet in the casino, and so decided to allow myself $5 to play with. I went in and could not lose for trying. I played the one franc slot, starting with just two francs, for about a half hour, and finally quit about 10 francs up. Looked around the casino awhile. In size, it is tiny compared to ANY American casino, but it was very nice, plush, etc. Unlike American casino's, this place was very reserved, quiet and dignified. I decided to play with my 50 francs until I lost them. I put 25 f on the first column at the roulette table and won. Now I had 100 f. Went to the 50 f blackjack table and played twice. I won both hands. I went to the crap table, and won. I just threw a chip on the come line and the roller shot an 11. Let it ride, the point was 9, he made it! At this point I was up $20 dollars or so, and I went back to roulette and put $10 on red. It came up red. I was so excited that I had to go out and sit in the lobby for awhile. I was trying to figure out whether to quit or stay at this point. I had not yet lost even one bet. Met a couple of Canadian backpackers and we all swapped gossip and war stories from our travels. I lent Gillian 50 francs, and decided to start with 50 francs again myself, and when that was gone I would quit. All night, I had been wanting to play the number 4 on the roulette wheel, so I walked in and put my 50 f on the column and 15 on the 4 exact. The dealer took off 5 and explained the bets must be in 10 franc multiples. I figured he was a fool for not taking my money as I was certain I would finally lose. I was wrong. The 4 came up and I won 350f + 100F , or about $45. The odds of walking in, betting an exact number only once, and winning must be pretty high. Incredible. The casino security threatened to eject me for being loud, as I got excited when the 4 hit. They do like it quiet. The Canadians had come in, and saw me raking in a nice pile of chips. I told them I would take everyone out for a drink and went to cash in my chips. As we passed the crap table, I decided to try my luck one more time, mostly so I could lose a small bet, know my streak was over and leave with the rest of the money in my pocket and no hard feelings. I put down a 25 franc chip on the pass line, 1st roll a 7 - another winner. I was totally undefeated for the evening, not a single wager lost. Barry a bunch, Les Casino zippo! My 50 francs became a bit more than 800. The four of us went out for a drink. Whew, I needed it. Then, GH and I looked around the hotel Paris. Very nice. Decided to go back and take a picture of the casino, and felt better about staying away, even without losing a bet.  Bought an International Herald Tribune and 2 postcards. Then back to the car. I started reading the winds of war. About 3 a.m.  or so, two cops came to the car, woke us up and checked our passports. They told us not to sleep there another night. It is not allowed in Monaco. Fair enough, at least they didn't make us move along right now. Beautiful day today, might buy a T-shirt and lye on the beach awhile. Later. BLF.

Monaco City - 12/6/84
Postcard Picture is Monaco casino and harbor by night - Hello Grandma Simmie,
from Monaco. How is everything there? As always, I am fine, healthy and well. Last night, I went to 'le Casino and starting with $5 dollars, left with about a hundred! I won every bet I placed. Incredibly lucky, but I guess that is part of the “Gypsy” life. The money will come in very handy. Heading for Italy today. Talked to Eddie today, and he and Mom sounded very well and say everything is OK there. I will write again soon. Love, Barry

Monaco City - 12/6/84
Oversize Postcard Picture is 4 views of Monaco & Monte Carlo - Dear Linda, Your luck must be with me, Les casino last night was a dream world.  Final score, Barry all, casino nothing. I ended up about a hundred dollars ahead, but I NEVER LOST a single bet! Not one. I even put one dollar on #4, straight up, at the roulette wheel. It came up #4, 35 to 1 payoff. I played craps, blackjack and roulette, undefeated and would have left with more money except for the slots. Anyway, I am happy, Les casino has been very good to je suis.! The weather here is spectacular. I might spend the day sunning on the beach. You should see all the Rolls Royce auto's,  Porsches, Ferrari’s, etc. everywhere. Lot's of big money. But it's not like Atlantic City at all, there is only one casino that I can find, it is fairly small. (see picture). But, it is a beautiful one. Monaco is very nice, the little I have seen of it so far is anyway.  Moving along on schedule and ready for Italy anytime now. Stocked up on cigarettes in Andorra, they were very cheap. Has the Spanish postcard with the lace dress arrived? Pretty tacky, huh! Stay well and enjoy the holidays, I miss you. Hello Mr. C and Joan. Say hello to everyone for me.  Make Griselda do a flamenco dance at the tax department, they are real neat. Never did get to see a bull fight as they are out of season. Oh well. Not much else happening here. Take care, Love, Barry. Is Alan Herman still depressed? Has Pete fled the universe? Just hiding from the landlord and unemployed perhaps? Flippi in jail, Kim engaged, with ring, Mike in Navy. Everything sounds about normal. Did Joe's wife Bev like the big cowbell?

Monaco City - 12/6/84
Postcard Picture is aerial view of Monaco and harbor - Hello Grandmother, Aunt Marta and Grandpop. I am in Monaco, at the casino in Monte Carlo. I told them who my grandfather was, and they went out of their way to impress me! I won about 100 dollars, never lost a bet!! I played craps, roulette, slots and 21. Received your nice letter in Madrid! I will be happy to meet Cindy when I come home, or if she will be in Israel I can meet her there. Maybe, if she likes, we can go to Ocean City for a weekend or something. Anyway, I am fine, healthy and happy. Talked to Mom and Eddie this afternoon (morning) and everything there sounds fine. Stay well and take care, Love, Barry.

Monaco - 12/6/84
Postcard Picture is Les casino Monte Carlo by night - Hello Mom and Eddie. Did the package I sent arrive yet? If it has, be sure and open it, there is something for Eddie. I went to Les casino last night with 5 dollars, determined to lose no more than that, but at least play there once. I was there for quite awhile, and never lost a single bet! I played blackjack, craps, and roulette. My last bet of the evening was one dollar on #4 to win, and five dollars on that column. It was the only time I bet a single number. $ came up! And paid 35 to 1. I left the casino about 100 dollars up, but went to some nice bars and stuff and ended up spending almost twenty of it last night. I never lost a bet though, it was like a dream. Someone was watching out for me. I was red hot, but with one hundred dollars, I was ready to leave. Maybe I should have stayed and won more, but what the hell, I'm Happy and undefeated! You would have been proud, wish you would have been here to see it. Weather is very good here, think I will spend the day on the beach. Hope all is well there, say hello to all. Love, Barry. PS- going from here to Italy, so if you don't get cards it is the post office at this end. Don't worry. Love, Barry Again.

Southwest of Genoa - 12/7/84
Friday - 9:00 a.m. - Pearl harbor day - Sunny and warm and beautiful. On the coast of Italy now, about 100 k south west of Genoa. Spent yesterday walking around Monaco, really cross country walking. From Monte Carlo to Monaco Ville, and it was lovely. Looked for a nice T-shirt everywhere, and the one shop that sold them had no size, color selection at all, just a random assortment. None I liked in my size. Bummer. Passed a PTT and phoned home. It was 12:30 here and 6:30 there, but Mom and Eddie were both up (whew) and it was great to talk to them. Only talked briefly though, as I didn't want to spend too much. In fact, I tried to signal, but it was a one and a half hour wait to place a collect call. Walked through the harbor, the boats were all private, but many were the size of commercial passenger lines. Huge, expensive boats that require crews to operate them. Amazing. Then visited the circus grounds and saw all the animals. Camels, lions, tigers, elephants, monkeys, giraffes, hippos, rhinos, cats, dogs, horses and more. They were neat, and many were not in cages. I got to pet an elephant and a rhino. Then walked back to Monte Carlo and headed out in the other direction. Lot's of shops, but still no T-shirts. About 5:30 we bought groceries, spent our change and left for Italy. Over the border with no problems. Developed a headache when I realized we have somehow lost our spare tire. I think it may have been that the mechanic who helped us removed it from the boot and forgot to put it back. Crap, what next? Then we decided to sleep early. We pulled in to a highway service area about 8. Up early and feeling better this morning. Wonderful weather today. Later. BLF.

Pisa - 12/8/84
Saturday - 11:00 a.m. - Sunny and clear. Arrived in Pisa via the most expensive toll roads. All together, more than 20,000 lire. But the only alternative was a donkey track through unending winding hills and villages. Bought gas and groceries, then visited the famous tower, cathedral and dome. I was most impressed. Looked around the touristy city and then drove south across the river to the new city centrum. Lovely in spite of great difficulties driving and parking, once there, it was well worth the hassles. Dined at a pizzeria and pigged out on delicious pizza (12 inch pie) and a big bowl of pasta. They seem to all cook their pizza in regular ovens for pizza, except there is a wood fire burning in the oven to heat it up and this adds a supreme flavor. Also the generous sprinkle of olive oil on the finished product. Great deal of fog last night. Drank a beer, wrote postcards to CJ and  LC, then read more of The Winds of War. Good book, hard to put it down. Today, back to the tower for a final viewing and ascent, then on to Florence, grab a train up to Venice and back. Drive to Rome and Naples and sail to Greece. Later. BLF.

Pisa - 12/8/84
Postcard Picture is  oversize with 5 views of Pisa - Testing 1,2,3. Do you receive CJ, or has the Italian post failed again? Had to write and tell you about the magnificent leaning tower snowing paperweights. It was all I could do to NOT buy one for you. But I know how you feel about collecting your own. But it was great, one was a calendar, pen holding paperweight with snow and a Leaning tower mounted on a sea shell painted tacky pink. Perfect! Saw some of your flutes in Barcelona. Won about $100 in Monte Carlo. I never lost a bet! Left after about an hour or maybe an hour and a half because I couldn't stand the excitement. I even walked up to the roulette wheel and I put a dollar on #4, $2.50 on black and $2.50 on the first column. It came up 4, black, 1st column. I played craps and 21 also. It was a real life fantasy come true. Met some Canadians who were watching, they couldn't believe my luck either. They started betting with me just before I left and won about $50. Weather on the French and Italian riviera is magnificent. Car is still OK, looking forward to Greece. I am in a pizzeria in Pisa at the Moment. The best pizza I have ever eaten, it is all cooked in wood fired ovens and covered with olive oil. Thank god I have healthy teeth. It is unbelievable how much better this is than NY style pizza. Well, take care, enjoyed your letter in Madrid. Write to Tel Aviv. Love, Brother Barry.
PS- driving in Italy is a challenge, each Moment a thrill. The Italians are insane behind the wheel of any vehicle.
PS#2 - I still need a shower. PU!
 

Pisa - 12/8/84
Postcard Picture is leaning tower and the story behind it -  Hello, testing 1,2,3  Can you hear me Linda? If not, or if it is February or March before this arrives? Am I home yet or has the Italian postal system improved? The leaning tower is truly beautiful. Most impressive. I am in a pizzeria right now waiting to eat real pizza. I called dominoes (780-0892) downtown, but they still won't deliver here, so I have to settle for the real thing. Monte Carlo casino is picking up the tab! I changed about $80 dollars today and got 179,000 Lire. It is hard to get used to spending 400L for a coke, or 3,500L for a pizza. But it works out to be pretty cheap. Weather here is fantastic. Miss you very much. Bought a leaning tower T-shirt for 4,000L or just over $2. I think we should get Roy to print a line of international T-shirts, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Monte Carlo, Rome, Paris, etc. We could make a fortune! Running out of space so I better sign off. Hope you get this card. Car is still running well. Love, Barry.
PS - Pizza was great! Dominoes can go to hell. I think the secret is olive oil and a wood fire oven. Tempted to get another!!

Pisa - 12/8/84
Postcard Picture is oversize view of the Piazza del Duomo in Pisa - Hello, 1,2,3 testing - Mom & Eddie, are you receiving or has the Italian post failed again? Hello from a pizzeria in Pisa. I have just demolished a 12 inch pizza and a huge spaghetti. I am now stuffed. But it's so good! I enjoyed talking to both of you on the phone so much, also it was great to hear your voices. It really made my day. I escaped Monaco without returning to the casino, but it wasn't easy. Shopped for a nice T-shirt all day and could not find one I liked. Anyway, drove straight to Pisa, lovely. I like Italy so far. Plan on driving to Florence, then a quick train trip up to Venice. Back to car and drive to Rome, Naples and then boat to Greece. Maybe a few other places on the way, but these seem to be the major stops. Did you receive latest package, air mail, with poster, cigars, etc.? Hope you enjoyed them. Driving in Italy is a never ending Moment to Moment insane, unbelievable hassle. Can't wait to see what Rome is like! As if the mad Italian driver were not enough, you have two choices 1) donkey cart trails they call free roads or 2) excellent highways that cost about one dollar in tolls every twenty miles. I do say, you haven't really lived or operated a motor vehicle until you have navigated Italy. All is well here. Please mail me a shower, I am filthy. Maybe a hotel tomorrow. Stay well, hello to all. Is Jill home now? Hello Jill, there is a card waiting for you at school. Love, Barry.
PS- Eddie, you are #1 in MY book. Miss you very much.

Florence - 12/9/84
Sunday - 7:30 p.m. - Drove to Florence (Firenze as the natives call it) yesterday afternoon. I am starting to get the hang of Italian driving. Speed sign are to be ignored or run over, lanes don't exist and it is a challenge of who chickens out first. It was an interesting drive. We went airborne going over a small hill, all 4 wheels were about 2 feet off the ground for a good 3 or even 4 seconds. Screeching, skidding, quick starts and stops. Great fun, especially when driving an old $350 wreck. Arrived in Florence about 5:30 and city driving is much more challenging that village driving, but I did well. Walked the beautiful, very cold, Christmas decorated streets. Saw a service in the cathedral, shopped (window only) and ate the worlds best ice cream (gelati here).  Drove to the outskirts about 10 and slept in the car. Up at 8 this morning, museum opens at 9 and close at 1 and only free on the 2nd Sunday of the month. Saw three of the best. Loved Michelangelo's  David, but saw redundant copies everywhere. Also some of his paintings as well as Da Vinci, Raphael and others. Museums were jam packed and I was glad to stop at the 1 p.m. closing time. Walked to the synagogue which was more like a  cathedral with it's huge organ, art, stained glass, pulpit staircase and water basin at the entrance. Also the Jewish museum. Bought a book on Florence for $1.50 or so. Visited St. Johns Baptistery, and was impressed with the bronze “paradise” doors, the Ponte Vecchio (bridge) with all the shops and houses. Went to a gelatiria and got a triple dip cone. Excellent ice cream here!!! Met an Alaskan and a Brit. Talked awhile and walked more. Got information at the Stazion on a train to Venice for tomorrow. Ended with a view from Michelangelo park, overlooking the city at dusk. Then drove 5 k's to the next little village. Trying to find a restaurant, but they don't open till 8:30 or 9, so we split a great pizza and are waiting in a bar till they open. PS- before we came here, we spent all morning in Pisa. Climbed the tower (3000 lire) - It slants so badly that going up the steps, you seem to go down with the tilt and vice versa. Very impressive inside. Also visited the cathedral and dome. Paid at a public toilette and got in an argument with the lady attendant because she “caught” me shaving and said it wasn't permitted. She tried to chase me out half finished, but I held my ground and finished anyway in spite of her threats to call the police. If they want to put me in jail for unauthorized shaving, at least I will have shelter and food and a break from the work of traveling cheap. And I will have a place to shave in peace. That's all for now. BLF.

Florence - 12/9/84
Postcard Picture is Michelangelo's “The David” - Hello CJ, sorry to write to you again so soon, but every turn in this city reminds me (us) of you. A true art lovers paradise! GH and I spent all day today in 3 excellent museums. The “David” must be seen to be believed. No picture will ever be even close. Also lot's of other sculptures, paintings by Da Vinci, Michelangelo, Rafael, etc. GH says the Louvre is nothing compared to just the David statue, much less the other 8 or 10 huge museums here. I corrected her - for you - but have to agree Florence gives a pretty damn good run for your money. It is on a par with the Louvre, no doubt. Also so many tacky paperweights of David, Ponte Vecchio, Pisa, Rome, etc. You could build a whole Italian collection for your shelf. Car is OK, life is good here, most things very affordable. Still need the shower I spoke of and tomorrow in Venice we will rent a hotel room. Happy new year, Love, Barry.

Exact Location Unknown - 12/11/84
Tuesday - 9:00 a.m. - Slept in the car Monday night in the small town just outside Florence. Went to a restaurant for dinner and ordered rabbit. It was very good, but I was dissapointed that the plate was bare except for the hare. Not even a garnish of lettuce or anything. F**k them, that's what I say. We caught the 9:22 train for Venice. Got off in Bologna without ever buying a ticket. Looked around for an hour and a half or so, and then back on the train. Bought a ticket this time for Bologna to Venice. Arrived and checked into a hotel on the condition that they had hot showers. Within 2 minutes, the hot water turned icy cold. We went down with our bags and offered to pay for the shower and towel, but refused to take the room. They wanted 10,000 L, the room only cost 27,000, or they would not return our passports. I told them I would pay 2,000 or call the police. They threw the passports across the room in our general direction and started screaming and yelling “Juda, Juda” and other shit. I returned the favor, called him a f**king WOP and told him he'd be lucky to find his hotel had not burned to the ground in a few days. Then I took off my pack and went towards him to punch him in the nose, but the fat man ran off. We left and checked in to a nicer hotel. Hot showers!! Clean room, no frills. Wandered around Venice, a truly unique city. Met lot's of nice people. The buses and taxi's are all boats, no motor cars at all, not horses, mopeds, bicycles or anything else that relies on the wheel here. You wouldn't know the wheel existed. Beautiful narrow twisting streets and canals. Called friends in Trieste and said “howdy”. Went out to a pizzeria and had a “full” pizza The dough is folded over to close the pizza in. Good idea, but I have had lot's better pizza. Slept well in a real bed, with no gear shift. Then back to Florence. Later. BLF.
PS-  The train approach in to Venice is cool as you go over low dikes and seem to be riding over water. Later. BLF.

Venice - 12/11/84
Postcard Picture is 9 views of Venice - Hello from Venice Linda, but I must hurry as my train leaves in 5 minutes. Decided to train up from Florence as it was cheaper than driving. Heading south now, and after Rome and Naples I sail to Greece around 22 December. Venice is unique and lovely. No cars, mopeds or bikes, the wheel does not exist, only the keel of the boats. Taxis, buses all are boats. Lovely Gondolas (very expensive). Missing you most of all in this holiday season, hope all is well with your family and friends. I must run now or I will be here another 3 hours. Love Italy (Best ice cream in the world). Happy holidays, Love Barry.

Siena - 12/12/84
Wednesday - 11:00 a.m. - Clear, not too cold. I finished reading The Winds of War last night. Looked around Venice some more yesterday after a steaming hot shower. Cashed in the last of my French money at a good rate. Bought a T-shirt and visited a travel agent about a boat to Greece. Saw several churches and cathedrals. The golden alter, the big square. Took a boat bus along the canals, ate lunch in a cafeteria. Then a long, uncomfortable train back to Florence. A quick ice cream cone, which would be perfect if you could convince them to pack the cone instead of balancing everything on top. The car was untouched and we drove to Siena to see the town and also because this is where a good road to Rome begins. Yesterday, while visiting the Doge palace and the towers (which lean) and the cathedral (where the pillars seem to lean), I wondered if the Italians ever built anything that stands straight up. No telling I guess. Ready for a quick look around, and then on to Rome. Later. BLF.

Rome - 12/13/84
Postcard Picture is an aerial view of Vatican city - Hello Mom & Eddie, I am in Rome, Vatican city is beautiful, as all of Rome seems to be. Especially loved Rafael rooms and Sistine chapel. The pope is holding a special mass in St. Peters basilica in about 25 minutes so I am waiting to see. Thought after mass I might invite him out for beer and pizza. In the meantime he has agreed to autograph this card.

Best wishes to the Schneiders,
The Pope
Bet you never thought you would get a card signed by the pope! Surprise. Did the package arrive from Monaco? After Rome, Naples and Pompeii. I sail from Brindisi to Greece. Miss you all. Is Jill there with Geronimo? From the pictures it looks like a beautiful cat. Well anyway, take care and say hello to all. Love, Barry.

Rome 12/13/84
Postcard Picture is Sistine chapel, “Creation of Adam” by Michelangelo - Hello Jill, did you do well in school? I hope so. Enjoyed your letters very much. I am having a great time (STILL) and miss you very much (STILL). Car is running well (STILL) and the “hotel Citroen” is comfortable enough (STILL) for me. Even more comfortable than the donkey and cart would have been. I miss having a set of Cosmic Wimp Out dice.  Italy is so nice. So far, very nice people everywhere. Decent weather and lot's of sights to see in every town. I am tired of paintings of the crucifixion, there must be 100 or more for every single minute Jesus lived. Not to mention Madonna pictures and biblical scenes like the last supper. But, there is some other art too. Well, take care of yourself. Do well at J.M.U. and say hello to everyone. Love, Barry.

Vatican City - 12/13/84
Postcard Picture is 19 views of Rome, stamps are Vatican Poste - To, Linda Cowan &  Family. Hello all, guess what? I met the pope today when he said mass at St. Peter basilica. He is sitting with me now in a pizzeria drinking a beer and has offered to autograph this card, so here goes.

Best wishes to the Cowans,
The Pope

Isn't that exciting, who would have thought it would be possible? Things in Rome are going well. The Vatican museum, especially the room by Rafael, are magnificent. The Sistine chapel is, well you just have to see it. The pope is really getting ready to say a mass next door in the basilica in half an hour, so I am just waiting around. All's well here, including the weather and the car. Rome is huge with so much to see. In a few days, on to Naples and Pompeii. Then I sail from Brindisi to Greece. Miss you all very much. Merry x-mas and happy new year. Love, Barry & his friend the pope.

Rome - 12/14/84
Friday - 11:00 a.m. - Raining steadily, not too cold - Wandered around beautiful Siena for a few hours Wednesday morning. Found a nice restaurant to wash up in, then off to the sea shell shaped piazza where the famous Palio race is run every year. Visited the cathedral, which is one of the tackiest I have yet seen with it's quick green and white candy cane stripes. Lovely artwork on the inside though, and it is a unique structure. Before we left, we stocked up on groceries, then headed for Roma. A rather uneventful trip, arrived Wednesday evening about 8. We stopped in the suburbs near the Ciampino airport. Sat in a local bar till about 11 drinking beer, playing foosball and reading “War and Remembrance”. Up at 8:30 to get a good start for Vatican city. During the night the oil can in the trunk spilled all over Gillians pack, a real mess! Went to the airport and cleaned up there. They have showers available!!. Then we drove to the metro and parked. Went strait to the Vatican museum and wandered route D. Everything from religious Egyptian art to the present. Thousands of sculptures, tapestries, paintings, ceramic, metal works. The Raphael rooms were stunning. I liked the ceiling of the  main room with pictures of a big, beautiful empty cathedral, with Jesus on a gold crucifix.  The only other object is a marble statue, straight down the main aisle from the crucifix, broken, shattered, lying on the floor. A beautiful ceiling, and the one and only painting they seem to have no postcard of. Spent about an hour and a half in the Sistine chapel. A bit dissapointed as they are renovating and about one sixth of the wall and ceiling space was covered with scaffolds. It was still a beautiful and moving sight. The perspectives are incredible. Then walked to St. Peters basilica, but could not get in because the pope was preparing to say mass in an hour or so. Went to the TI and they said it was by private invitation or ticket only. There were no tickets available, but we hung around anyway. When they opened the gates we were going in. GH got in no problem, but the guard stopped me, searched my little camera bag and found my deadly Swiss army knife and told me I couldn't come in. I left my knife at the TI with some nuns, returned and got in no problem. They never noticed the 5 inch switch blade in my pocket! But I could not get in with the Swiss knife. Go figure it.  We got aisle seats, I don't know how. We got some great pictures of the pope. Also, a few of his buffoonish guards with spears and axes, dressed in bright orange, yellow and blue stripes. The service was incredibly theatrical, the rituals almost silly (yet it is interesting that with incense, wafers and wine they capture the  essential business of  eating, drinking and breathing). The music and choir were nice, except for the “miracle” bells when the pope changed the wafers and wine to body and blood. Very tacky, but then who am I to judge. It was interesting listening to the booming voice in Latin and Italian and seeing him act as God on earth, with crown, throne and everyone nearby kneeling before him.  I don't understand it, but it was a beautiful church and an interesting service. I guess if you go to only one mass in a lifetime, one with the pope is your best shot. Besides, he really knows how to throw a party with all the wafer chips and wine. I suspect he is a secret agent for Kodak though, with all the cameras and pictures. If he isn't on commission for film and flash, he is being robbed. Then, we wandered the city by night. Bough guide books, but due to general restaurant and bar strike, we avoided the best areas, saving them for later. Rome is a city of sights everywhere though. Squares, fountains, statues, columns after column after pillar. Castles, cathedrals, coliseums, forums and more. Went to a cheap restaurant and met 3 other American travelers. Talked till nearly 10, then caught the last metro back.  One interesting thing I forgot - While we were waiting for the pope, we were feeding the pidgins in the square. This 5 or 6 year old bully kept coming over and chasing the birds away, and his parents just sat there and watched. The 3rd time I chased HIM away, as if he were a pidgin. I scared the living shit out of him. He was crying and screaming as he ran back to mama's lap. He wont throw rocks at pidgins, or chase them around for awhile I'll bet. Later. BLF.

Rome - 12/15/84
Saturday - 8:15 a.m. - Sunny, not too cold - Yesterday was a complete exercise in futility. After waiting for a short break in the rain, we dashed to the subway. Metro subs and buses were out on strike. Tried to walk in to the city center, but it was about 10 Klicks, and in spite of the distance involved, we did not have a map that went that far out. Finally saw buses running, and after four transfers, 3 hours after setting out, we arrived at St. Peters to retrieve my Swiss army knife.  Surprise, nobody could find it. Finally, about 3 o’clock it was located, to my great relief and astonishment. Then to the coliseum, which closed 2 minutes before we got there. Had a nice walk around it anyway. About 50 cats and kittens running wild. For a Moment, it reminded me of the old lions that must have preyed there at one time. Then looked around the Forum. Saw the Goodyear blimp several times, flashing advertisements over Rome. Looked vainly for night life until about 9:30 and found none. Wonder where it hides? Maybe there is none because the damn bars never have chairs or tables to sit at, so nobody goes? Real pain in the ass. The bus back was complex; 2 buses to the Termini rail station, which was impressive, but had lot's of very seedy characters hanging around, then 3 more buses to here. Got back about 11. Today is sunny and nice. Back to the coliseum and more sights, then on to Naples. BLF.

Naples 12/16/84
Sunday - 10:30 a.m. - Sunny and warm Napoli. Arrived about 6 yesterday evening, after visiting the coliseum, Pantheon and castle. All very interesting. Then, about 2:30 we left Rome. Road was 2 lanes, through many towns, lot's of traffic. (read: SLOW) Naples is lovely. I bought some blue suede shoes to replace my worn out deck shoes. They cost about 9 dollars, they are like high top hush puppies and very comfortable. There is apparently a big naval base around here, I saw a U.S.O. office and a lot of American sailors. Port area and old town were filthy, crowded and very fun. I love Naples. Lot's of market places, shops, etc. Also the very best pizza I have yet tasted in Italy. Finished looking around about 12 or so I think. Today we will see Pompeii and Vesuvius, and then probably head for Brindisi to try for the ferry on the 18th to Greece. Later. BLF.

Brindisi - 12/17/84
Monday - 6:00 p.m. - Visited Pompeii for about 4 hours yesterday. The ruins are awesome. Wandered about, ate a picnic lunch in the sunshine and then left about 3:30. As we were leaving we met an old Italian studying English. He asked for some help on pronunciation. It was fun, especially with the way Gillian and I differ on “proper” English. He favored the UK style more than the U.S. though.  Took the highway about 110 Klicks and ran the toll booth at the end. Then a dual carriage way all the way here. The campground was closed and locked, so we slept in the car. Got a shower in a hotel this morning. At first he wanted 5,000 lire, but we said no thanks and he ended up letting us have a go for free. Very nice. Also very cold. No hot water was barely worth the price. Bought tickets for the ferry to Greece, worked out to about $40 apiece for us. We sail tomorrow night. Just relaxed, read and napped today. Think I will get a few beers tonight. Later. BLF.

Brindisi - 12/18/84
Tuesday - 2:00 p.m. - HOT! Enjoyed 3 or 4 beers last night at The Big Apple bar. Met a couple of guys, one from America and the other from Wales. Very nice. Then had a very good pizza and drove to apartments. Read War and Remembrance awhile and along came the police. They checked our passports and then started studying the car next to ours and asking if we had seen anyone near it. Then, they left. We read awhile longer and then slept. Up about 9:30 this morning due to lovely, welcome, oppressive heat. Read awhile, then walked to the police station to get exit visas and pay the port tax. Then to hotel toilettes to clean up. Grocery shopping, then back to write cards to Mom and Linda. Not much else, just R&R and prepare to sail tonight. Later. BLF.

Brindisi  - 12/18/84
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Brindisi - Hello Linda, how is everything there? I must tell you about my first visit to the Catholic church, a special mass service with the pope. It was by invitation and ticket only, but I managed to sneak in and got an aisle seat at that. The only problem was my Swiss army knife (they didn't find my 5 inch switchblade) during the search with metal detectors. I left the Swiss knife with the guards and got right in. Have some great pictures of the pope within five feet of me. He sure throws a good party, lot's of chips and wine. It was neat. Naples was very nice also. Great pizza everywhere. My shoes were worn out so I bought some nice blue suede shoes for about $7.50. Sorry, but leather jackets are about $100 and I can't spare it right now. Maybe we will come back together in a couple of years and get you one. I sail to Greece tonight, a 9 hour crossing. Stock up on duty free beer and ciggs. Miss you more than ever, but things are winding up rapidly here. Only little tiny Greece, Israel and Egypt left to see, and barely enough money to pull it off. I will see you soon, Love, Barry.
PS - Did you do well in school this semester? Straight A's?

Brindisi - 12/18/84
Postcard Picture is 5 views of Brindisi - Hello Mom, Jill & Eddie! I must tell you about my first catholic mass. It was a special mass in St. Peters basilica, Rome, by the POPE. It was private invitations and tickets only, but I managed to sneak in and even got a near front row, isle seat. Great Polish Pope pictures will be coming. I think he works with Kodak on a commission basis, lot's of pictures taken. He throws a great party, lots of chips and wine. A nice guy, but rather theatrical. Naples was nice. I bought some blue suede shoes as my deck shoes fell apart long ago. Nice shoes and they cost about $7.50. I am in Brindisi and sail to Greece tonight. I charged my ticket for the boat ($40) and will charge from there to Israel (about$100) so sell the stocks please and put the money in my account, minus charge purchases. Tell CJ there is a Harry's bar here and I took a picture of their sign. It's not Paris and the NY bar, but its close enough. Enjoyed Pompeii very much, don't see why you didn't enjoy it. Spent about 5 hours wandering around. Happy New Year, Love, Barry.  PS- How did Jill do in school this semester? All A's?

Metsovon - 12/20/84
Thursday - 11:00 a.m. - We spent most of Tuesday sitting in the car. Wrote postcards and finished reading War and Remembrance. Went to the hotel to use there bathrooms to clean up. Bought a huge cup of ice cream and a last piece of pizza. Then back to the car to organize for the boat trip. Arrived at the dock about 7:15 and found the right boat. Then waited in line about an hour to drive aboard. Finally got to the ramp and the car stalled, holding up the que for five minutes until I finally got it going again. Drove up and up, all the way to the top deck, right by the swimming pool. Then had to walk down and around to the passenger entrance through Italian and Greek customs. Another half hour. Finally on board at about 9:15 and discovered that our tickets were deck passage, i.e. no seat at all inside anywhere for us. So we sat at the Bar, ate our sandwiches and drank our sangria. Met an American, An Aussie and two South Africans. It passed the time, but they were sort of drunk assholes. I stole a great hot shower from one of the cabin class W.C.'s and enjoyed that immensely. Walk around deck awhile as it was pretty warm. Sea was very choppy and rough so we went to the car and slept. One hour time difference here in Greece, so when we arrived, we just drove off ship and parked to sleep some more. When we got ready to leave a couple hours later, the customs people were very surprised and wanted to know where we had come from.  It took some explaining and several searches, but finally we were allowed to fill out an entry form for the car, and off we went. Found a bank and changed some money, about 125 Drachma to the dollar now.  Drove north east and visited Ioannina. Pretty lake town. Ate lunch in a small roadside cafe' - lamb, veggies and wine for $2 each. The driving is trick, all through mountains. Barren, rocky land with lot's of sheep and goats. Arrived in Metsovon about 6:30 and bought some worry beads and a very nice wool scarf and leather mittens. Then taverna hopped. Finally ordered some kabob for dinner, and met 5 Greek men. There do not seem to be any Greek women in the tavernas. They are scarcely seen, unless they are working in the fields or at the markets it seems. Anyway, we drank with the men and talked for hours. They showed us how to use our worry beads. They paid our check and offered to rent us a hotel. When we left, I bought them a bottle of Retsina. It's not too expensive. At the first bar, we split a bottle of Retsina, 2 big beers and a coke for GH and the bill was 150 drachma, just over a dollar. I can afford things here. And it was interesting that in all the tavernas there were no women other than Gillian. Only men, but ALWAYS they were very friendly and courteous, robust, loud and merry. They seem to like the tourists, I guess especially  now that there are not so many. Today it is rainy and cool. I am supposed to telephone Nantos and visit before we leave. They want us to stay for Christmas. Very nice. Later. BLF.

Metsovon - 12/20/84
Postcard Picture is 6 men on a bench in Metsovon  - Hello CJ, I love Greece. Bought lot's of worry beads, have some for you. Found Harry's American bar in Brindisi, Italy and got a picture for you. It's no Paris - New York bar, but it is OK and I think the picture will come out. Had a very rough sea crossing, but made it OK. The tavernas here are friendly and cheap. Meeting very nice people everywhere. Love the Retsina. Looking forward to your short letter in Tel Aviv. Hope all is well there, In Rome, I went to mass at St. Peters, with the pope. Must tell you all about it. The holiday season is neat over here, decorations, parties and lot's of smiling faces. I must explain the picture on this card. As I looked through the rack, I saw this one, and believe it or not, this scene was right across the street. The same men, same clothes, everything! I took the card and stared from it to them, comparing. Identical scene. They all laughed and posed. I got a picture of them. Neat huh? Happy new year, Love, Barry.

Athens - 12/22/84
Saturday - 10:00 p.m. - (Athens)  Interesting couple of days. Walked around in the rain, all through Metsovon and shopped. Had delicious Greek coffee and tried to call Nantos. He was not at work or at home. Left about 12:30, headed for Meteora. Rain, fog and mountains slowed us down. About 5, the car gave out. Limped it to a BP and rested it. It still wouldn't run right. The gas attendants took the carburetor out and finally fixed it. No charge!! Very nice. I bought them a beer, it was no small feat as 1) they are not mechanics and 2-4) it was dark, cold and raining. The car is now running well. Arrived in the town beneath Meteora and went out to a delicious (lamb again) dinner. Then drank 30 cent pints of beer till I was near silly. Up about 10, bought post cards and wrote Linda and Mom-Mom. Then drove up to the monasteries of Meteora. Wow! Beautiful! Then drove 450 k's to Athens on 19 litres (approximately 5 US gallons) of gas. Slept on the  outskirts after a supper of excellent scallop stew. In early this morning to AMEX, cashed last travelers check and found out the next boat for Israel is January 3rd. Shit. Athens is nice. Visited the Acropolis and walked around all day. Bought more cheap worry beads, 2 ceramic plates and a T-shirt. Enjoyed the old marketplace selling all the live - to - be - slaughtered animals stacked on the street in endless cages. Then went to a fancy hotel, called home and had them ring me back. Explained my finances ($500 left, give or take a couple bucks) and had them sell my remaining stocks. They were exceptional, and will try and cover me if possible, and will sell stocks if necessary. Jill was not there, which probably means they would not let Geronimo come. It was great to talk to them, but expensive. 3 minutes cost me $10. Anyway, walked back to the car to leave for the outskirts of the city and find a place to spend the night. The key jammed in the ignition. The locksmith says he will fix it in the morning for $30 - shit, shit, shit!!! But what can you do? As we can not get the car started or go anywhere, I am going to drink myself silly again. BLF.

Athens - 12/22/84
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Athens - Dear Mom-Mom & Pop-Pop, Hello from Greece.  I am fine, nearly broke (financially), but hanging on for Israel. The next boat leaves Athens 3 January and I should arrive in Israel about 6 January 1985. Until then, I will enjoy Greece. Very friendly here, happy people. Italy was very nice, especially Pisa, Naples and also Venice - very beautiful! The boat from Italy to Greece was fun, but the sea was rather rough. Hope it is better on the long run to Israel. Food is cheap and excellent here. I just finished eating a lamb stew and feta cheese salad, under 3 dollars with wine. Miss you both very much, will say hello to all your relatives for you (hope you sent the addresses). Happy new year, hope all is well there, Love, Barry.

Athens - 12/22/84
Postcard Picture is 4 views of the Acropolis in Athens - Hello Mom & Eddie, letter will be forthcoming soon with authorization to sell stocks. Enjoyed talking to you very much! I must thank you both for your unfailing support throughout this whole effort. I love you both more than I can say. I feel much better now, after speaking to you, as I was worrying a bit about transportation & finances again. Thanks. I forgot to wish you a happy new years on the phone! Greece is lovely. Excellent and cheap food, lovely scenery and happy, friendly people. Tonight I went out to dinner after talking to you, and bad luck, when I went back to the car. The key broke off in the ignition. Shit. Locksmith will fix it tomorrow for $20. Oh well, what can you do? I hope that is the last problem. Looking forward to Israel, boat leaves 3 January and arrives 6 January. Looking forward to your letter. Tell your boss's son I have an address in Austria of a medieval weapon shop he can write. I will send details in letter. Love, Barry.

Athens - 12/22/84
Postcard Picture is ancient statue Selinus - Hello Linda, as you can see from this photograph - you bring the devil in me and I miss you very much! Greece is a real paradise. The people are friendly, food is ridiculously cheap (as well as beer and wine), the scenery is without equal. The next boat to Israel sails 3 January and arrives on the 6th. Continue to write AMEX, but I will send a “permanent” address after I arrive. I visited the Acropolis in Athens today. It is beautiful and awesome, especially when you realize it is 4,000 years old. The car, I broke the key in the ignition tonight. $30 for a locksmith! Shit! Bad luck. Shit. I miss you, look forward to your letters, hope all is well there. Did you get my letter? Take care, see you soon. Love, Barry. PS - It is fun watching Dallas and Dynasty dubbed in Greek, in this taverna. I miss you and count the days. Hope all is well there. Say hello to Jill, Geronimo and Mr. C & Joan. Happy new year and Merry Christmas.

Athens - 12/24/84
Monday - 7:00 p.m. - Christmas Eve - Athenian suburbs- Went to a taverna and had 3 beers (Carlsberg) and then slept in the car in the middle of Athens. The locksmith arrived at 9 a.m. and got the key out of the dashboard.  He said the cylinder was shot and we could either buy a new one, or leave it out entirely and start the car with a screwdriver. It still cost us 3,500 drachma to have him come out and yank the cylinder. We looked around Athens some more. Bought a T-shirt, some ceramics and a giant string of worry beads for Eddie. Then drove out of the city. I took a picture of a man walking a black bear through town on a leash. Then  drove out of the city. Campground is open, but cost 600 d, and a hotel is only 1,000 d. We just found a pub, had a beer and slept in the car again. The pub was nice, we played pool with the locals and I got pretty drunk. Love eating souvlaki sandwiches. When we got up this morning, there was a young girl from one of the village houses. The family wanted to invite us in for coffee and toilette. We talked through their daughter, who acted as interpreter. They invited us to celebrate Christmas with their family. We drove in to Athens a while later, and bought boat ticket at AMEX for 1,030 d, one way. I cashed a check for $250 and GH went souvenir shopping. She bought me a brass plate. We ate souvlaki for lunch (it is so good I could live off it and they are only 30 d each), bought 2 pounds of cookies and 4 bottles of Retsina for our new host family.  Returned and had an excellent hot shower. GH is washing our clothes in the tub by hand, relatives are coming and going and I am just trying to take it easy and stay out of the way. Hoping for a nice soft bed tonight. Not much else for now. Later. BLF.

Exact Location Unknown - 12/25/84
Tuesday - 9:30 a.m. - Christmas day. Slow, but friendly evening last night. Talked, watched TV in Greek, and read. Father is very nice. They gave us their bedroom (the mother and father). We refused repeatedly, but they would not take no for an answer. It was cold, and rained very heavily last night. Up about 8 this morning for coffee. Quiet now. Later. BLF.

Patrai - 12/26/84
Wednesday - 6:30 p.m.- Yesterday, we went to Christmas dinner about 1 and met all the aunts, uncles, cousins, etc., etc. We had spaghetti, lamb and chicken, also potatoes, salad, coke, Retsina and beer. I gathered our laundry off the line, thanked our hosts again and wished them a merry Christmas,  and we left about 3:30 for Korinthos. Arrived no trouble and looked around both Korinthos and Ancient Korinthos. Then rested the car awhile before driving on to Patrai. Went to a pub and bought 2 or 3 beers and played a few games of backgammon. Then started talking to some of the locals and playing backgammon with them. They bought us some pickled octopus, which turned out to be pretty tasty. Much like herring if you don't look at the tentacles and stuff.  Then the pub “closed” for their privet Christmas party. The owner, 2 workers and about 10 regular customers remained. They insisted we stay. We ate pizza, chips, octopus, etc. and the beer was on the house and bottomless. Did some Greek dancing with, and watched the others do even more. About midnight, they were all pretty drunk, as was I, and they were mostly out of cigarettes.  I got a carton of Andorra Marlboros and the owner bought them from me, even though I tried to give them away as my treat. We ate, drank and danced until about 3 or so, and I was very drunk. There was not room on our 15 foot table for one more beer bottle, empty or full. We were invited to come in for coffee this morning, and we left.  I was hung over BIG TIME, and barely crawled out of the car around 2 this afternoon. I was just about able to stagger back to the taverna. I was drinking coffee, free of course. Then they fed me, and then they bought me a beer. We all exchanged addresses, we thanked them again, and we left for Olympia. We have just arrived and it is pouring down rain, hail, thunder and awesome lightning. I am almost recovered from my hang over. I let (READ: ASKED) GH drive and slept most of the way here. Almost forgot - I also received a tape cassette of Greek music, with lots of Bassookie music. Nice people. Very nice. Wrote a letter to Mom and Eddie. We are considering a hotel tonight if it is cheap. Terrible weather. Later. BLF.

Olympia - 12/27/84
Thursday - 10:00 a.m. - Rented a hotel room last night due to cold, rain, hang over, etc. Very nice. Hot shower. Weather is not much better today. See what happens next time. BLF.

Filiatra - 12/28/84
Friday - 10:00 a.m. - Sunny, hot and not a cloud in the sky. Nice cool breeze. Left Olympia yesterday after visiting two museums and the excavation site of the original Olympics. Most remarkable! I was quite surprised at the enormous size of the ancient gaming area. More like a city than a stadium. Drove, after 2 or 3 false starts in the wrong direction, about 50 K's and stopped for a picnic lunch on a beautiful, deserted, sunny, beach. Big sand dunes, berries and orange trees and the rolling Mediterranean. Not quite warm enough for a swim, but nearly. (maybe today if I am lucky?) After about one and a half to two hours, we continued on, picking up a Greek soldier hitch hiking. Stopped in this little town about 5, for no reason in particular other than we are in no hurry. Read “The Little Drummer Girl” awhile, took a nap, then had a nice stroll around this town. Not a single souvenir shop or exchange bank. Good. Then went out to dinner. Big pork steak for each of us, 2 beers, a coke and wine, plus 3 souvlakis, all under $5. Then to a taverna. With every drink they brought a small plate of food. Radishes, octopus, meatballs, sausage, whatever. Nice touch. Slept in the car, by the town square. Up about 9:30 due to the heat mostly. The banker came out of the bank we slept in front of and asked if we were from Bulgaria or Yugoslavia. He was amazed that we were not, and that the car was actually from Spain. Apparently there is a Burgos in all 3 countries. I am sitting at a sidewalk table in the brilliant sunshine, drinking great Greek coffee and watching Popeye cartoons with Greek sub-titles. Before I close this entry, I just want to comment; On every road in Greece, there are crosses with bottles, gold and silver cups and pictures of Jesus. They are in front of nearly every house. They do not appear to be mailboxes. I wonder what they are?. Not much else now. Later. BLF.

Sparta - 12/29/84
Saturday- 9:30 a.m. - Cloudy and mild. Left Filiatra after coffee and cleanup, about 11:30 yesterday morning. Bought a new tube of toothpaste, and a couple of little things. Stopped in a little town to eat and met our first nasty Greeks. They kept pretending not to see us, and to be too busy to take our order. After awhile we left. Arrived in Pylos, along spectacular mountain roads. Through endless olive and orange groves, as well as shepherds with goat and donkey and even sheep driven carts. Pylos is stunning, at the very southern tip of the mainland, surrounded by mountains behind and blue water and islands in front. Visited the old fort and ruined church. Walked along the city walls for quite a way. GH tried to change money, but the man sitting at his desk in the wide open bank swore they were closed for a holiday. (2 in one day) (nasty people that is). We left and headed for Kalamai  , and then Sparta.  The last 70 K's were over some big mountains, almost 40 K's up in second gear all the way. I almost got squashed by a truck I was passing when he swerved out of his lane and in to mine. The, 30 K's downhill, right into Sparta. None too soon as the brakes were going all the way down to the floor by the time we got near the bottom. Drank some Retsina, wrote postcards to Mom and Linda. Went out for Greek toast and talked to the owner, who loves the USA and visits his relatives in Boston. We exchanged addresses, and then continued on to a taverna. Watched “Thunderbolt & Lightfoot” with Clint Eastwood at the bar, and drank some beer. Then to bed. Slept very poorly in the car, feel exhausted this morning. Later. BLF.

Sparta - 12/28/84
Postcard Picture is 3 views of Pylos - Hello Linda, Cal & Joan, hope your holidays were great. I spent Christmas with a Greek family near Athens. They were very nice, and we had a big x-mas dinner. Then I drove to the big south Island to a town called Patrai. I went to a taverna and had a couple glasses of Retsina. They brought a plate of pickled octopus as a courtesy, so I had to eat it. It was good, if you could avoid looking at the tentacles. Anyway, they had a Christmas party with pizza, souvlaki and UNLIMITED drinks. I stayed in the taverna, dancing Greek dances (no women in the tavernas) and drinking till about 4 or 5 in the morning. Oh, and what a big hangover I had. Can't wait to see how they celebrate new years. I drank 2 bottles of Retsina and at least 10 beers. I could not keep up with these old men. And I never spent a cent. In fact, before I left, the owner of the taverna gave me 1.000 drachma! Merry Christmas! I love Greece. I am in Sparta today and looking forward to my 3 day cruise to Israel on 3 January. Pat would be proud of me. The ignition cylinder broke on the car. Locksmith could not fix it for under $30, so I just removed it completely and start the car with my Swiss army knife now! Miss you, all my love, Barry.
PS - I am “Cruising” deck class. No cabin, no seat. Luxury!

Sparta - 12/28/84
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Pylos - Hello Mom & Eddie, it's me again, writing a lot lately, huh! Please, as I asked you on the telephone, look into a flight from anywhere in Israel or Egypt to the USA around the end of February through March sometime. Perhaps a charter that is not full will take me back cheap. It will cost me $80 back to Athens. From there to England or New York is about $400. Or I could boat to Italy for maybe $40 or so and work my way back towards England. Probably take about two weeks and under $100. See what you can find out. Christmas night I went to  a taverna, the owner had a party. I ate octopus, pizza, souvlaki and more. I drank Retsina and beer, unlimited, as an honored guest. The Greeks are nice, but I have never been so hung over in my life. We drank and danced (Greek style - no women in the taverna) till 4 or 5 in the morning. These old men can really drink! I have almost recovered now, 3 days later. Looking forward to my 3 day cruise to Israel (deck class) next week. Best to everyone at home, all my love, Barry.
PS - Greece is great!

Megara - 12/31/84
Monday - Time unknown - Left Sparta Saturday afternoon and drove to see the caves of Pirgos Dirou. They were closed when we arrived. The “town” near there had 3 taverna/hotel places. 2 were worse than the car and the third one, run by a little old man with 2 big teeth, cost 1,100 d. We offered him 1,0000 and he wouldn't budge. We drove about 10 Klicks and found another. He took 1,000 and we got a cold, but decent room. It rained like crazy all night. We went to the hotel restaurant. All they had was pork, please ignore the menu. We ate pork, then off to bed. Up about 9:30 Sunday morning and off for the caves. The car died in the middle of the road.  The carburetor is shot. It leaked half a tank of gas out last night, and now it is dead. A mechanic comes by. It is raining. In 2 minutes, the car is running perfectly again. Thank you sir. Very nice. The caves cost about 200 drachma. You start out in a wooden boat, small, but holds 7 people. It is a rowboat. The water is crystal clear, and in some places, it is pretty deep. The passage is nice. Lots of stalagmites and stalagmites. After half an hour or so, they take you in to a small branch that you must walk through.  Then a short boat trip back to the entrance. Nice. Then we drove to Sparta again, as that is where the road for Athens starts. Ate a toast with our friend. He cashed a travelers check for me. Then we set out for Athens.  Hit lots of snow around Tripoli. Car stop for gas, and we couldn't get it started again. A Canadian visiting his cousin helped us with the carburetor and we managed to get it going again.  We drove, the snow turned to rain, and the traffic grew heavy as we neared here. I think new years eve may be a factor with the heavy traffic. We went to a taverna and played pool. Met some people, drank some Ouzo. Went to their house and watched “Tommy, A Rock Opera” by The Who. And we drank wine. I woke up this morning and found out new years eve is really tonight. My mental calendar must be off again, so I guess we will celebrate new years again tonight. Don't know how I could be mistaken about the date though. Happy new years. BLF.

Athens - 1/1/85
Tuesday - 11:45 p.m. - After recuperating until the early afternoon hours Monday in Megara, we went for a walk to find something to eat. The whole town was closed, so we decided to spend the real new years eve in Athens. The car started, and we drove in. Found a nice little hotel for 950 d and booked 3 nights! (until we sail for Israel). Came to our room #502, and relaxed till about 9. I called home and said happy new years. It cost 900 d. I missed CJ, and Jill was not in yet either. Went to Plaka and found a taverna with Greek dancing. After 25 minutes without so much as a menu or waiter we were ready to walk out. As we got up, the waiter appeared with menus. We left. Found a taverna that looked friendly and went in. It was terrible, and we left after one drink. Ate souvlaki at a kiosk, about six of them to be exact. Gosh they are good. As we walked along, we heard loud music and laughter. Went in to a bar and found a toga party. MTV on the tube, and Americans, Australians, Brits and New Zealanders all there getting drunk, dancing on the tables and even swinging on the chandeliers. A wild new years eve party if ever there was one. Got good and drunk, met lot's of nice people. GH found a friend she knew from New Zealand, someone she had known before. Small world. We had a good time. Back to the hotel around 3 or 4 and we slept most all day. Read “Raise the Titanic” till 8:30 or so. Then a shower (cold, complain to the desk, hope for the best) and out for a walk.  Back to our new years eve bar for drinks. More souvlaki on the way home. Tomorrow, sightseeing. Looking at trip, realistically, this was about as far as I had hoped to come. Imagine, it is another year, 1985, January. As far and long as I had ever hope to come with my $2500 kitty. I have been away over 8 months now, and seen more than I hoped to, though still not enough. Success, but it seems like only a week or so since I began. So many times, mostly good, since I began. So many places and people. So much seen and experienced, so many nice people. Later. BLF.

Athens - 1/2/85
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Piree harbor - Hello Linda, it was great talking to you last night, even if it was 3 a.m. here! I enjoyed talking to you very much, and hope you don't have to sell your car to pay for the call. I sent you at least 5 cards from Italy and several from Greece. Hope they have all arrived by now. Sorry I didn’t get the Marlboros you sent, I checked the AMEX office 3 days in a row. Glad you and Jill had a nice new years eve. I went to a toga party at a taverna here in Athens and it was fun. Hope all is well there. You sounded a bit worried or depressed on the phone, but great all the same. Did you manage to see Scott? This card is a picture of the port I will sail from to get to Israel. Glad the cuckoo is working. I am still looking for another white chimp. All my love, Barry. Say hello to everyone for me.
PS- I bought some round frame John Lenin sunglasses here that Dale will love. Love Barry.

Athens - 1/2/85
Postcard Picture is The Caryatids (lady pillars) - Hello Jill and Geronimo & Company. I am not dead and gone to Europe, so don't talk about me like that. I talked to Linda, and she said you spent new years eve together. Hope it was nice. Sorry I haven't written you much lately, but I thought you might be in Springfield. I sail tomorrow (3-6 January) to Israel. Should be pretty neat cruise. Hope I don't get sea sick. The car is OK still, sort of. It runs anyway. Greece has been a fun country, cheap good food, beer and wine & very nice people. Hope all is well there and that you are doing well in school. I have been collecting lots of souvenirs and chocolate and you will be getting your share soon. Plan a big homecoming party for me around March. Don't know exactly when, it depends what route I take to get there. Take care, Love, Barry

Athens - 1/3/85
Thursday - 9:30 a.m. - Slept till 10:30 Wednesday morning, then to AMEX, post office, used book store, some old museums, monuments, etc. Bought some new round sunglasses, blue, John Lenin style. Then back to the room. Reread Animal Farm. Also read “Mechanical Man”. Linda called on the phone about 3 a.m. Tuesday night/Wednesday morning and we talked half an hour or more. It was great, she said Scott was in Richmond, etc. Sounded a bit upset, mad or worried. I am not sure which. Anyway, out for a beer about 10. Came back and watched an old TV movie with Gene & Grace Kelly, then to bed about 1. Up at 8:30, nice HOT shower. YAY. Today, we sail to Israel, We are basically finished with the European continent. Wow. Whew. Very nice. I could spend years doing this if I had more money. So much more to see, so much I have managed to accomplish seeing. Wow. Whew! Later. BLF.

At Sea - 1/4/85
Friday - Time unknown - We are en route to Israel on board the rust bucket Sol Phyrne. After check out at the hotel yesterday, we mailed post cards, bought bread and cheese, 7-Up and 14 souvlakis. Then we got the car started and drove through very heavy traffic to Piree’s docks. had to go through passport control, then auto control, then before boarding answer Israeli questions, then 2 more car searches. Finally aboard. Boat sailed about 35 minutes late. Met a Dane and an Englishman. Played hearts, spades and 8's. Also some chess. And drank beer. The sea is very rough, and the boat is rolling all over the place. Lot's of people are sea sick, including GH. We slept on the upper deck last night about 1 a.m., but woke up to rain in the face about 6:30 or so. We brought our gear into the coffee shop/lounge to get dry. I went back and woke GH up and helped get her inside with her gear. Then I tried to get in the W.C., but the door was broken. I read James Bond “Dr. No”, took a walk around the boat, ate a cheese sandwich. Sunny and warm now, but still rough seas. Almost everyone is seasick but me and my card playing, beer drinking pals. Not much else for now. Later. BLF.

At Sea - 1/5/85
Saturday - 8:00 a.m. -  Still shipboard, Still lots of sea sick folk.  Stopped in Rhodes for half an hour or so, but I didn't want to get off the boat as it was such a short stop. Alan & Lars went out and bought some more food and beer. We played 500 and 8's. Sea was very rough, even rougher than before. Many, many people sick. Chairs keep falling over the side of the ship. About 11 last night, I went to the first class lounge with Alan for a couple of drinks in comfort. Not much sleep again due to the weather and the rude, noisy bastards in the coffee shop. Cypress today, Israel tomorrow. BLF.
 

The Promised Land

Galilee - 1/7/85
Monday - 11:30 a.m. As I write this, I am on the beach, at the sea of Galilee, in Israel at last! The ship arrived in Cypress about 1:30 Saturday, locked the packs and gear in the car and took a cab to the town nearest the port with Alan, Lars and GH. We found a cafe' with nice toilettes to clean up. I shaved, put in my contact lenses, etc.  Drank a beer wound a grocery store, bought a post card. Most everything was closed. Walked back to the ship. Stopped to pick a few oranges on the way, and also bought more beer.  Back aboard about 5:15 and at sea again before 6. Ate a good dinner, all 4 of us shared stuff and made sandwiches. Then we played 500 for 3 or 4 hours and got drunk. There were about 15 Fijian peace force soldiers aboard, and I talked with them awhile. They were singing, and one of them was playing a guitar. About 11, a Greek singer came on TV, and this fat Greek rogue turned the volume up ALL the way. I looked around, and everyone else seemed “less than happy” about the noise the singer made, so I got up and turned the TV down again so we could enjoy the live music again. The Greek fat man came up and pushed me out of the way and turned it up again. I turned it down again, and it looked for sure like I was Moments away from being in a fight. A ships officer came and told us to turn the TV down (which is what WE wanted in the first place), and then for all of us to sit down and leave the TV alone. Fine with me. 10 minutes later, fat boy turned it all the way up again. I got up to turn it down, and everyone in the bar started clapping. I turned it down, the fat man came, and everyone booed and hissed at him. The ships officer came in again and started hassling me. He threatened to blackball me from Israel. All the soldiers came over and circled in around me real tight to show their support, But I just told him I'd like to see him ban a Jew from entering Israel. He backed down real quick. The fat man turned it up again 10 minutes later, and the soldiers and 10 to 15 other people from the lounge surrounded him before I even considered getting up.  They turned the TV off, and the soldiers “suggested” he find another part of the ship to stay, permanently. This conversation took place outside, where they had sat him up on the railing of the deck, hanging out over the open sea. They reminded him that if anyone saw him again, he would probably get hurt. Then we all listened to Alan play guitar and sing, and everyone else pretty much sang along. The fat man had been a pain, but he created a lot of friends. The soldiers kept bringing me beers, and they fed the 4 of us good food. I slept OK, and we arrived in Haifa 7 a.m. Sunday morning. It took about 45 minutes to get our car out of the boat, as we were nearly the last car. Then the hassle. First a search, OK, fair enough. Then another. Then car customs. # forms to fill out. Then another line. 30 minutes later he tells us we need a green card to prove our auto insurance. No card, so we had to buy new insurance, and that took another half hour and about $20. Then, they couldn't find the chassis number on our car paper at the customs office. 6 of them couldn't find it on our car either. Finally, they took the carburetor number (mistaking it for the engine block serial number?). Then, passport control, followed by currency control. Over 3 hours. Finally, we were off. Lars decided to join us and go one third on gas and oil. We visited Akka, Makr, Safad and Haifa. Akka's old city was great, with narrow twisting market streets. I played with a monkey, and fed it an apple. We met lot's of nice people everywhere. Visited the underground crusader city. Walked the markets. Everyone wanted to buy black-market American dollars (cash) from us. The car is burning lot's of oil.  After Safad, we found a small village that turned out to be a kibbutz. Found Ouzi, the secretary for the kibbutz and asked if we could pitch our tent for one night. It was against the rules for that, but he found us a bed in “the ghetto”, or volunteer section. We sat in his house an hour and a half talking. Then to the dining room for dinner. We were thinking of working there, but fortunately they had a volunteer meeting at 9:30. We heard the discussion and all they volunteer problems they are having. They are really treated worse than 4th class. Also, food and living conditions are even worse than the University. The people were so friendly, but there were so many problems, and we heard not one positive thing from the volunteers. We slept in the ghetto, and it was indeed filthy. One room, one closet and 2 mattresses on the floor. But, we slept well, although I would not choose to live under these sub-standard conditions. Up at 7 today for a shower. Then breakfast. Then we had an appointment with the volunteer director. Pleasant chit chat. They won't admit it, but they were disappointed that, as they are desperate for volunteers.  We picked up that much at the meeting. After a suitable show of effort, they came up with an offer of a place for all 3 of us. I very diplomatically put them off for a week and told them we would call after a look around the country. We offered to help them out today, and work for the bed and food we had already enjoyed., as they are short of people this could help pay for our stay. But they wouldn't let us. The money here is 3,000 shekels a week, or exactly enough for 10 packs of cigarettes. There is a $15 dollar registration fee. You work six and a half hours a day, 6 days a week or about 39.5 hours a week. Fair enough, but the housing is shit, the toilettes are worse, and the food (at least in the two meals I ate) did not even come up to V.C.U. standards. I will look for other work before I go in to debt working 40 hours a week to live like an animal, friendly people or not. There are many possibilities. I am sitting on a beach now, by the sea of Galilee. It is warm, hot, sunny and clear. I might even go for a swim. Guess I will have to buy a new journal today *  I think the worst thing about the kibbutz was that the members live very well, but they over exploit the volunteers. They also own hotels and industries that they manage, but hire other people (outsiders and Palestinians) at low, low wages to work. They seem to be “Collective Capitalists”. On the other hand, they do many good things for the community. They have programs for needy students, orphans and juvenile delinquents. But, my analogy is, one man working for $100,000 dollars a year “exploiting” the labor of others is no different than 750 people working for 7 and a half million a year and “exploiting” the labor of others. In fact, it is perhaps worse, in that they share the responsibility on an individual in society, for the security of the kibbutz, using hypocrisy to say they have a utopian communism. Their income is 12 million a year. They have cows, chickens, banana groves, red banana groves, a four star resort hotel, electronics laboratory, etc. All well and good, and the members are entitled. But it is nearly criminal to treat the full time laborers and the volunteers in such a fashion. Also, they blamed everything that was bad or wrong in the kibbutz on the laborers and volunteers. And all the complaints and problems of these groups, the kibbutz will not accept, let alone act on. The kibbutz is always right! Enough complaints from me, I sure enjoyed their hospitality, and now I will enjoy this weather. But it is curious, don't you think? Later. BLF.

* NOTE: this section is written on the inside, back cover of book 4 and continues to the inside front cover.

Nazareth - 1/8/85
Tuesday - Time Unknown - Went through Tiberias and around the lake. Found the En Gev kibbutz, but decided to visit the Golan Heights first.  Chugged up the mountain and at the top the road was barb wired. The army was having exercises, so we had to wait 30 minutes or so for the hourly road opening.  While we waited the soldiers talked with us. They helped us do some needed work on the car while we continued waiting. We fixed the carburetor and added water to the battery, as well as adding ever more oil. Very nice. Thanks guys. Then, when the road opened, we drove to Hammat Gader, but again, the next road we needed was closed. Drove back down towards En Gev. Stopped by the lake, lit a small fire, drank a beer and relaxed for an hour. Then on to the kibbutz to visit and see if we could eat and sleep there tonight. No eating, no sleeping, but a nice visit. The kibbutz was 200% nicer, physically and the volunteers were well treated, well paid and appreciated. A few of the volunteers told us we could camp in the grove of Date trees, so we went off and pitched camp. Slept very well. Up about 9, warm and sunny. Left to visit Nazareth and bought this new journal. Huge market place. Changed a travelers check and got $20 cash. Lars is starting to remind me a lot of Scott Rittenhouse. Now, we eat sandwiches and soon we head to one more kibbutz, then probably Tel Aviv. Later. BLF.

Herzalayye - 1/10/85
Thursday - 8:00 p.m. - We are at Larry & Dora's house. The car is leaking oil like crazy and we barely made it to the kibbutz. Made friends with two more volunteers - Patrick and Shawn. Shimon and Vicki were in Jerusalem, so we stayed the night and found them in the morning. Really like this kibbutz, so much nicer than the first one.  Drove to Tel Aviv on Wednesday. The national  kibbutz office for finding volunteers assignments was closed. Lars went to visit some friends, so GH and I slept in the car near the Kibbutz office. In line at 8 this morning and we got a place on our own kibbutz. Yay. Everyone else, including Lars was turned away.  I got 7 letters at AMEX, my exact prediction. I won a coke from Gillian for that guess. GH had no mail, and was a bit disappointed I think. Four of mine were from Linda, one from Kim, one from Mom-Mom and one from Dora and Larry. We found them OK. Big turkey dinner. I just got out of the shower, and apparently we can stay only one night. They are holocaust survivors and resent Gillian as she is not Jewish. I can respect that, but what else can one say. The Papiers are very nice. Their loss, fuck it. I may try and visit Pop-Pop's relatives later in Haifa. Later. BLF.

Herzalayye - 1/11/85
Friday - Time Unknown - Watched “The Sunshine Boys” on TV Jordan, talked with D&L, called Mom-Mom and let her know I made it to see her relatives, and general had a good time last night. Tried to locate Pop-Pop's relatives in Haifa by phone, but no luck. We plan to catch a bus to Jerusalem and look for Alan until Sunday. Just finished breakfast, time to pack. I am sending my completed journal, film, souvenirs and guide books to the states with D&L as they go on Monday and will deliver them to Mom-Mom for me. Very nice. Later. BLF.
PS- They did finally invite us to stay in their house (INCLUDING GILLIAN) while they are away. But we decided it would probably be best to just leave well enough alone. BLF.

Jerusalem - 1/13/85
Sunday - 11:00 a.m. - Took the bus to Tel Aviv and there caught the bus for Jerusalem. What an incredible bus system, as soon as one fills up and leaves, another pulls in and begins loading passengers.  It is continuous, and from the big station you can go just about anywhere in Israel, anytime and cheap.  We arrived and found Alan's flat, but no one was home. The woman next door let us leave our bags and we went and bought bread, cheese and tuna fish. Ate outside and waited till 5. Then we were invited inside and upstairs to wait at her flat.  About 5:45 Alan's flat mate Carl appeared and invited us over. We talked awhile, then I drank a beer and listened to some tapes. Then we went to two bars, Champs and Scandals. Champs had music videos and we watched David Bowies “Serious Moonlight” concert. Met friend Tracy and then after a few pints on to Scandals for the International Defense Contractors party. Very nice. Free food and lot's of beer. Played a game of darts and ended up getting quite bollixed as Alan would put it. Taxi back to the flat and sleep. A little hung over Saturday morning, but basically OK after breakfast. The 4 of us took a bus to Bethlehem and saw the Nativity church. This church marks the “exact” spot where Jesus was born, and one can visit THE spot for a suitable contribution. We wandered around both the new and old city awhile, then to the old city of Jerusalem. WOW!! Fantastic. It is divided in to 4 quarters. The Jewish, Armenian, Arab & Christian. Of course, the Jewish quarter was closed (Saturday), but the western wall was most impressive, as well as some exposed archeological sites and the buildings and streets themselves.  Went to see the Dome of the Rock, but couldn't get in no matter what we tried.  Walked the Via Della Rosa, where Jesus carried his cross. Wandered the crowded, narrow market streets. Saw the baths where sacrificial sheep were cleansed and J.C. healed a cripple. Saw the crusader church. Saw lot's and lot's of things today. Also bought a Budweiser T-shirt in Hebrew. They actually sell Bud here. I guess that is the penalty for accepting all the American foreign aid and stuff. Gillian got a Coke shirt with everything in Hebrew. Then, back to the apartment for awhile. About 6 we took a bus into town and Carl shouted us Kebobs. Very nice. Walked awhile, then on to Scandals. Alan was back and we had a good time. Drank till 11:30 or so, then caught a bus back to the flat. Now it is today. Not much else yet. Later. BLF.

Herzalayye - 1/14/85
Monday - 8:30 a.m. - Took bus #99 around Jerusalem yesterday for sight seeing. Visited the old city again. Fantastic, incredible. Back to the flat around 6, had tea, and then left to go back to Tel Aviv again. Talked to Dora and Larry till 10:30, then to bed. Up at 7 this morning. Called ORS Employment and made an appointment. Next, we will see D&L off to the airport for their trip. Then to a bank, and AMEX, then going to kibbutz Artzi. Later. BLF.

Lahovat Havwa - 1/16/85
Wednesday - 8:30 a.m. - Went to a bank in Tel Aviv Monday and got a few dollars. It is best to keep American cash dollars here, as the inflation is fast and dollars are worth more on the black market than at the bank. Then, went to the kibbutz placement office, but they had nowhere for us on Lahovat as they had promised last week.  But, they gave us a place on kibbutz Bet Alpha, on the Jordan river, instead.  Finished our business in Tel Aviv (no job through ORS) and then back downtown for lunch, then left for here. Found Patrick and Shawn at their kibbutz and went with them to the kibbutz next door to visit their bar and get a drink. Got pretty drunk. Spent all day with them Tuesday. Started a new book, “God Save the Mark”, a very funny murder mystery. Ate a pomalite, which is a cross between a grapefruit and an apple. Had lunch in the dining room. Back out to the bar about 8:30. They ran out of beer about 11, so back we came. Off for some shopping in Hadera, then on to our own kibbutz. BLF.

Wednesday Supplement - 3:15 p.m. - Beit Alpha - went to Hadera, GH got some medicine she needed, and mailed a package. I bought contact lens solution, ciggs and beer. Changed my last cash dollars to buy gas and oil. I have about 17,000 Israeli shekels left. Arrived at the kibbutz just in time for lunch. Very nice.  Excellent food compared to what we have seen at the other kibbutzim.  We have a NICE, clean room with a kitchen, privet toilette and shower (right there in the room)!! 3 beds, the extra is in case we have any guests. A desk, shelves, reading lights, closets! WOW, it is like being human again! The place is like a country club as far as I am concerned.  We meet the volunteer leader soon, but have spent the last 2 hours organizing our apartment and unpacking for a nice, restful stay. It feels nice to be off the road for now. It feels very nice. Home! BLF.

Gilboa - 1/16/85
Postcard Picture is the Wailing Western Wall - Hello Mom & Eddie, Greetings from the holy land! My mailing address for the next 3 months is: volunteer Barry Foer, Kibbutz Beit Alpha, DN Gilboa 19140, Israel. I found Dora and Larry. They will be in the states by the time you get this card, I gave her your number, and she should call. The cheapest flight out to NY I have found is $280 on Tower Air, no credit cards - only checks or cash. Please write, now that you know where to find me, and share the address with all. I am so delighted with Israel, it is more than magnificent. I will write again tomorrow, but I am just settling in and wanted to send my address right away. Now I will shower and eat, so see you in another 3 months or so, Love, Blif.
PS- hello to grandma Simmie, I will write soon!

Beit Alpha - 1/16/85
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Acre - Dear Mom-Mom & Pop-Pop, Hello from my kibbutz. I love Israel, it is unbelievable! I enjoyed talking to you on the phone. Thank Dora for me, as you will be seeing her. She is bringing you a letter from me as well as 3 disc films (please send more film back if you can), a journal, some books and some souvenirs. My mailing address is: Volunteer Barry Foer, Kibbutz Beit Alpha, D.N. Gilboa 19140, Israel. It is very nice. Modern, Clean and with many nice people. I feel at home already on my first day. Dora and Larry were very nice to me. I am trying to find Pops cousins in Haifa, but having difficulty tracking them down. Hope you are both well, miss you as always. I will write again soon. Love, Barry.

Beit Alpha - 1/16/85
Postcard Picture is the bazaar in Jerusalem - Hello CJ, looked for your letter in Tel Aviv, but I guess it is lost in the post, or has not arrived yet. The middle east is incredibly different from Europe. Loved Greece, so did GH. Have sent worry beads and souvenirs to Mom-Mom via Dora & Larry, who are now in U.S. Try to pick them up if you can. Also, my next journal, film and assorted trash. I am on a kibbutz between the dead sea and the Galilee, just near the Jordan river. I have signed on for 3 months. Mailing address; Volunteer Barry Foer, Kibbutz Beit Alpha, DN Gilboa 19140, Israel. Write as much as you like, I am never too busy to read mail. We only work 6 hours a day. Weather here is great. Everything is expensive. The shekel was worth 640 to $1 when I arrived 10 days ago. Now it is 700 to $1. The inflation in unreal. I bought you a Budweiser T-shirt with the logo in Hebrew. I think you will love it. The 3 day boat ride was rough, rain and waves. Stopped in Cypress for a day. I will write again soon, Love, Barry.

Beit Alpha - 1/16/85
Postcard Picture is the market in Jerusalem - Dear Jill, The middle east is neat. I have been in Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Nazareth, Tel Aviv, Haifa, Acre and MUCH more. The boat ride was terrible, the boat was a rust bucket with a 20 degree list to starboard, and the sea was very rough. The weather in Israel is great! I am learning some Hebrew (don't tell Mr. Rabinowitz). I am on a kibbutz for 3 months. Now you can write me all the time at; Volunteer Barry Foer, Kibbutz Beit Alpha, DN Gilboa 19140, Israel.  I am looking forward to a lot of letters. I arrived here today and start work on the 18th. I got this position just in time as I have about $10 left. In other words, I am broke. I work 6 hours a day and they provide me with everything (except beer, but including cigarettes). Fortunately, beer is $3 or so a case, one of the very few cheap things in all of Israel. Hope to sell the car soon and get some money. I sent souvenirs for everyone with cousin Dora who is going to the states Monday. She will deliver them to Mom-Mom. You or CJ should pick them up as soon as possible please. They will be there soon. Meow to Geronimo, I have adopted a cat here (already). Love, Barry.
 PS - Shalom from Bagel City!

Beit Alpha - 1/16/85
Postcard Picture is 4 views of Nazareth - Hello Linda, sorry it has taken so long to write. After Greece I waited until I got my mail, and then until now, so I can send you my new “permanent” address. Volunteer Barry Foer, Kibbutz Beit Alpha, DN Gilboa 19140, Israel. I just moved in today and am very pleased with the food and accommodations. Everyone works 6 hours a day. The weather here is great, I have a SUNTAN! I will be here Exactly 3 months (sorry) and then I will be home, with you! I have seen much of Israel including Bethlehem, Nazareth, Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, Haifa and much more. It is a remarkable place and the middle east is very different from Europe. I have gotten all your letters and 2 real neat cards. Thanks. Also heard from Kim. Tell her “Bagel land” is great. Bah-ha! Write to me a lot. More on the way to you too. I will try to write every day. I miss you. It was great talking to you on the phone. Love, Barry.
PS - I am 5 miles from the Jordan river, about halfway between the Galilee and the Dead sea.

Beit Alpha - 1/16/85
Postcard Picture is Mt. Zion - Hello Grandma Simmie! As you can see I am now in Israel. I am living on a kibbutz and expect to be here about 3 months. Israel is magnificent. I spent about 11 days exploring before I came to this kibbutz, and I get enough time off to see a lot more. The weather is great, I don't envy you the Baltimore winter. Hope everything is fine there, I spoke to Eddie and Mom not long ago and all seems well. I will write again soon, Love, Barry.

Beit Alpha - 1/17/85
Thursday - 10:30 a.m. - Met Paul, the volunteer coordinator yesterday. Seems like a very nice fellow, easy to get along with and he likes to drink a bit too. Organized most of the afternoon. Then had a shower. Excellent! Good pressure and tons of steaming hot water. Met a lot of the volunteers. Dinner was blah. They had an American movie, dubbed in French, but I skipped it and hung out on the front porch with the volunteers, drinking and sharing a couple of my beers. Wrote postcards to Mom-Mom, Mom & Eddie, CJ, Jill & Linda. Also sent Linda 2 birthday cards and told her to take something from the Nook & Cranny and tell Walter to send me the bill. Hope he doesn't mind. GH and I had a long discussion about love, marriage, philosophy, right, wrong, Linda, etc. Interesting. Reading a lot about kibbutz life, and ideals. Up about 7 this morning for breakfast. Then at 9 to Ruthie's for regulation work clothes, ciggs, instructions & rules, pillows, linens, etc. It is raining now. Jets are flying around, and made a few sonic booms. The clock is ticking loudly. I am not used to having an alarm clock. I think I prefer not having one. Someone has a tape player, and it is cranked up. Not much else for now. Later. BLF.

Thursday - Evening Supplement - 9:00 p.m. - Played football and Frisbee on the lawn. GH and I played some basketball in the gym. I need some tennis shoes. Nice lunch, dinner not too bad. Regular meals will not take much getting used to, it has been easy so far. Called AMEX in Tel Aviv to tell them to forward all mail here. Will call Alan Poore in Jerusalem tonight after the movie, “The Magnificent Seven”. Work assignments for tomorrow have been posted and I start in the hatchery at 6, then about 9:30 I shift to the kitchen as I have drawn dish washing. Yay. BLF.
PS- Sure hope somebody (or everybody) sends birthday money, it would be great to have some appear in the mail.

Beit Alpha - 1/19/85
Saturday - Time Unknown - The alarm clock failed to ring Friday morning and GH and I were both late to work. I arrived at the hatchery at 6:15. Riv and I took trays of eggs from a big incubator, put them in a different crates so they could hatch, and put them back in the incubators. Then I stacked all the crates that were empty, we cleaned the floor and we got to breakfast by about 9:30. Then, washed dishes till noon or so. Ate a great lunch, then played a game of football for an hour and a half, Mexico vs. U.S. Afterwards, we played Frisbee soccer, and I was really tired after all that running. I must get some tennis shoes. Had a very nice chicken dinner for Shabbat. Called Alan in Jerusalem after dinner. Then there was a party in the TV lounge, followed by the Disco, which is more like a poorly stocked, but free, bar, that is mostly only opened on Saturday Night. It was built in and with the spare time of the young people of the kibbutz, and is actually quite nice. Everyone is very friendly and I had a good time. Got a chance to meet several of the Kibbutzniks Friday night and that is good also. Slept in till 11 this morning and then went to lunch. GH and I started playing Frisbee in the rain, and before long we had six others also playing, so we played Frisbee soccer in the rain instead. Then showed some people the car as they were amazed that 1) We had a car, and 2) this thing we called a car actually arrived here under it's own power.  Later, an afternoon nap and then dinner. Played cards (500) with Tony and Julia till 11:30 or so. Tomorrow I work split shift on the dishwasher detail. At least I can sleep late with that job. Later. BLF.

Beit Alpha - 1/20/85
Sunday - 9:30 p.m. - I worked split shift on the big dish machine, 11-2 and 6-9 today. Went to Afula and bought some beer, and had a look about the town. (our closest neighbor, not kibbutz). Very small and not much to see. Back around 4 and played some Frisbee. Then the 2nd work shift, fairly easy work, although it would be nice to do it all in one go round. Not much else for now. It is nice to have empty pockets all day. I carry one key, around my neck, to the front door of our apartment. I need no wallet or ID, no money, no car keys. It is pleasant. Later. BLF.

Beit Alpha - 1/20/85
Postcard Israel Picture is the Damascus gate to old Jerusalem - Hello Grandmother, Grandpop and Aunt Marta. I am on a kibbutz in Israel, and enjoying it. Life is a bit less exciting and adventurous than before, but it is still a new experience. I have seen quite a bit of Israel and am very impressed. It is a beautiful land. The weather here is great and I am usually finished work by 12 or 2 at the latest, and we play football, or Frisbee or soccer. Then we all walk about 2 kilometers to the hot springs for a swim. All in all, it's not a bad life. Love to all, I will write again soon, Love, Barry.

Beit Alpha - 1/21/85
Monday - 11:00 p.m. - Worked split shift again, and I am getting to like it. It is fairly easy and the people are nice to work with. I got up about 9:00 and cleaned the room a bit. Enjoyed the morning sun before it started to rain. Work was OK, Read Wouk's “My God”, about Judaism, and then went to 2nd shift 15 minutes early so I could get a jump on the “left over” work from in between meal snackers.  2nd shift was very easy. Went to the coffee bar after work. John and I drank a beer, GH and I played some rummy with Tony and David. They won with a bid of 7, no trump. Rats. Back about 10:30 for a 3rd nice hot shower today. I love having my very own permanent bathroom again. Joy. Cleaned the bathroom floor and fixtures, and now I will read a Time magazine I borrowed from the coffee lounge. Split shift again tomorrow, so I can sleep in. Lucky me.  Must try and find a tennis racket somewhere, so we can play. Also, we found out that Paul has a Risk board. More like home every day. Later. BLF

Beit Alpha - 1/22/85
Tuesday - 5:00 p.m. - Up about 9 after another argument with GH about not reading when she is ready to go to sleep. This is because the light keeps her awake. But I can't sleep without reading, often until very late at night. This is a constant battle. She is a morning person. I am a creature of the night. It rained all night last night. Cleaned the room, showered, shaved. Ruthie came by to see if everything was all right and did we still need anything?  Lunch was good, work not too hard. Came back and GH was gone, no note or anything indicating where she might be. I walked to the next kibbutz. Then towards the mountain. Part way up I found a small cave. Then climbed all the way to the top. It rained part of the way, and was very slippery and dirty work near in places. There were trails, but I decided to go the challenging way, straight up. I saw a deer, several rabbits and lots of little caves. Magic view from the top, even with clouds, you can see for miles. Green patches, reservoirs, fields, orchards, a prison, 3 or 4 kibbutz, etc. Coming down I fell off a rock, about 10 feet straight down. Ouch. Cut my hand and arm, but otherwise OK. Called AMEX when I got back to find out why GH got her mail and mine did not arrive. They said it is on the way. I hope so. Later. BLF.

Beit Alpha - 1/24/85
Thursday - Time Unknown - Went to the coffee lounge Tuesday evening, nut it was boring, so I came back and drank a few beers with John. Wednesday was another split shift. #1 was easy. Paul brought my mail in after lunch. GH & I decided to work the Orchard from 2-5, picking lemons. Quite nice, aside from the thorns. 2nd shift very slow, as there was nothing much anyone wanted to eat for supper. Saw a French film, “Zig Zag”, and it was funny. GH played Tony in a game of chess. He moves too slowly for me, seems like half an hour per turn. She has already beaten him twice. Beautiful day today, I think I will pick lemons again. The mail was a letter from Mom and Eddie and one from grandmother and Grandpop, and not much else. Later. BLF.

Thursday Evening Supplement - 11:30 p.m. - Worked my split shift, and the Orchard with GH. Nothing exciting, had a nice lemon fight with Ron. He has a good arm. The film tonight was an Italian opera. I watched 20 minutes, and then went to the gym to play basketball with Ron, John, David, Tony and Bob. GH kept score for us. At the end of two games, we played horse. Started reading “The Money Changers”. It seems good so far. Beautiful weather today. Later. BLF.

Beit Alpha - 1/26/85
Saturday - Time Unknown - Quarter of a century mark in the big trip. Worked the split shift yesterday. Lunch typical, but Friday night dinner is a tough shift. Washed lot's of dishes. All done by just after 9 though, walk home for a shower. Drank a beer, and read “The Money Changers” until 11 or so. Then went outside. Talked to Ron at the main gate, and went by the disco. Met the manager of the motor pool and he will try and fix our car up this Sunday. Had a few beers, and left fairly early/. Back to bed. Up about 10:30 this morning, slept like a baby. Ate a good lunch, then climbed the mountains again, this time with GH. Back and talked with Tony and Julia, while Julia cut Tony's hair. I got my mustache trimmed. Probably play some rummy or spades tonight. Later. BLF.

Beit Alpha - 1/27/85
Sunday - Time Unknown - Played rummy, followed by spades last night, drank a few beers. At dinner, some of the other volunteers had a food fight. After they left, GH, Tony, Julia and I decided to clean up the mess, so none of us get in any trouble. Astor was in some kind of accident and was injured today. It was a very busy evening. I worked the dish machine again 8-2 today, it wasn't too bad. Better than the split shift. My jeans have still not come back from the laundry. I guess they were really dirty? I am angry, as I do not believe they will reappear. They have probably been disappeared. I decided to start on my own garden today, but couldn't get any tools as the room they are in was locked. I cleared away most of the large stones by hand, then got up a lot of garbage, then pulled some weeds.  When I get gloves, a rake and a shovel it will be easier. Also, some help would be nice, but I can do it alone and take satisfaction and pride in my work.  I took the car to the motor pool today and Elyashu put someone to work on it.  We changed an oil gasket and they are getting a new oil filter, working on the carburetor. and putting on a repair patch to the air hose. Great. Very nice. Not much else for now. BLF.
PS- Saturday night Gillian put 2 matches in a piece of bread and everyone sang happy birthday. Very Nice.

Beit Alpha - 1/28/85
Monday - Time Unknown - Worked the dish machine 8-2, and it was uneventful. Then came back and read the New York Times section of the Jerusalem Post. Then got back to work on the volunteer garden. Tony and Julia joined Gillian and I, I found the help I needed, and we made good progress. Too bad we won't be here long enough to see it blossom and bear fruit. One day, volunteers will pick fruit off trees right outside their apartments.  About 3:30 I was summoned to pick up mail at Paul’s office. We got to talking a little and I invited him to see our garden - in - progress. He was impressed, and came back an hour later with a tractor and cleared the remaining land of weeds in minutes. GREAT! We finished by raking the rocks in to piles. A bit more raking and weeding, some cow shit from the dairy, and a 3-4 inch layer of topsoil and we will be in business. Even so, it looks a lot better already. Still, we could use more help, so I will make a sign tomorrow and ASK for volunteer assistance. Got two letters today, one from Jill (Very funny, as usual) and one from grandmother. Not much else for now. BLF.

Beit Alpha - 1/30/85
Thursday - Time Unknown - Tuesday went well. Got the car back from the shop, fixed up (supposedly) and raring to go. It really does seem to be running well. Almost everyone showed up to help with our bucket brigade to get rid of the rocks and bring in top soil. It was hot and very hard work. After half an hour or so, a kibutznik watching us work, decided to go and get a bulldozer for us. In ten minutes or less we had a 4 inch topsoil cover. A spontaneous party formed, with people bringing salami, cheese, fruit, whatever was handy. I brought out our remaining beer. Next step, the cow people will deliver dung. Then we let it sit and dry a few days. Then Paul says he will tractor it again to break it up and level it. Then we get an irrigation system in place, then we plant. Neat! Watched TV, the Superbowl was on Tuesday night on Middle East TV at about one in the morning. Terrible, snowy, black and white picture, but it was live coverage. Reagan tossed the coin, and after the game he congratulated the 49'rs and told them he would like to borrow their front 4 to help him on capital hill. Work today went well. Saw a movie in the evening, “The Story of Carrie F.”, about heroin junkies. Sad movie, but rather realistic. Borrowed Paul’s risk board this afternoon, and GH and I played. I slaughtered her, of course and remain undefeated.  Once again the world was covered by little gold Barry Armies. Played computer Othello at Paul’s. Dinner, and then the Modan. Gillian is working there now. I played Tony 2 games of chess, we went one and one. Then did a nice domino chain. Now I am ready to relax. I must write home tomorrow, it has been a week already. Also, I want to trace the Risk board, so we can make our own and play more often. Not much else for now. BLF.

Beit Alpha - 1/31/85
Postcard Picture is narrow street in Old Jerusalem at the 6th station of the Via Dallaroza - Hello Jill, got your neat card/letter. How can I join the O.U.C.W., I am eagerly awaiting my official stamped membership card. Expect to return to U.S. about 25 April, and eager to visit you and Geronimo. All is well here, especially the weather. Write me again soon. Hope school is going well this semester. The middle east is nice, kibbutz life is fun and easy (See Linda for more details, or wait a week & I will write you a letter). Take care, Love, Barry.
PS_ This is the street that Jesus walked on his way to be crucified, carrying his cross.
PPS- Hello Geronimo, do a kitty flip for me!

Beit Alpha - 1/31/85
Postcard Picture is the Dome of the Rock - Hello CJ, Happy birthday, undoubtedly late as today is the 31st, sorry. Still having a great time, expect to return to the U.S. about 25 April, give or take a few days. Saw the Superbowl on Middle East TV yesterday. President Reagan was funny “Can I borrow your front 4 to help me on capital hill”, but it was a good game. I work some in the orchards, some in the kitchen and some with the cows and chickens. Mostly, play football, Frisbee, Risk, cards and stuff. And eat. Not much else to say for now, except I have started a nice garden by my apartment. Hope all is well there, Happy birthday. Take care, Love, Barry.

Beit Alpha - 2/3/85
Monday - Don't know how I get so far behind in my journal nowadays. Anyway, Friday I did my last day in the dish room. Went to the laundry to look for my jeans, and Ruthie took that as a personal insult against her. Just to make her feel better, I tried to apologize Friday night (that they lost my jeans) but she wouldn't speak to me. Well, I do not care to discuss it with her again, as it will just lead to certain disagreement.  Dinner was excellent, we had turkey steaks. I ate lot's, and brought 2 extra with me for our Saturday trip. Went to  the Children’s concert Friday night. I was impressed with some of it, and bored to tears with the rest. Back to the room about 10, and Tony and Julia helped us make armies for our home made Risk board. It turned out to be excellent, top notch, and portable when we finally completed it on Sunday.  Went to the Disco about midnight, GH, T & J danced, along with some of the others. I drank a beer and talked to Ronny. He invited us to come by his house Sunday, as he goes to Lebanon Monday for six weeks service in the army. Up about 6 Saturday morning for the trip. Raining cats and dogs. Went to the dining room for coffee at 6:45 and left just after 7. Did not stop in Jericho due to bad weather, but just past there, to the south, the weather was much better. Stopped and had fruit and sandwiches. Met some sheep and goat herders. Gaddy showed us local plants, animals and birds, and explained weather patterns in the dessert, and the area in general. Next stop was Ein Gedi nature reserve. Passed 2 camel herds in the desert before we got there. When we arrived, there were warnings of leopards in the area, but (unfortunately) we never saw any. Did see plenty of gazelles and a few Hyrax. Also, beautiful oasis plants and trees growing above the underground springs. Several rare, and beautiful birds. Climbed to the top of a waterfall and had a breath taking view of the whole area, all the way to the dead sea. Visited a very old (7,000 years or so) temple, and also the Domin cave. Then, a short bus ride to the dead sea beach where we stopped for a swim and then lunch. The swim was brilliant, you just lean over and pop to the top. Arms and legs out of the water, and you can sit still (no treading or paddling) and float, just like you are on a water bed. Amazing. Lunch was good, hot dogs, but as I suspected, there wasn't enough for everyone. So I ate a turkey steak! On to Massada. George and army John ran up, the rest of us took the cable car. It was fascinating, and once again Gaddy proved to be an excellent guide.  We managed to see lots, but at 5:15 there was still lots more to see, but alas, it was getting dark quickly, so we began our descent on foot. I walked down very quickly, but many of the others didn't make it back until well after dark. Fun bus ride home. Pouring rain again north of Jericho. Had an impromptu party in our room after dinner, with lots of people dropping by. Up early to work in Betty Moon Sunday, with the chickens. I do not envy Tony his job here any more, but enough about that. Played Risk in the afternoon with GH and we taught Tony. Of course, I won. We included New Zealand on our board, and it is quite fun sending the losers generals to exile in NZ. Visited Ronny about 11:30 and stayed till after 1 this morning. There were several other people there, and we all had a great time. Up early to work in Tsuipui today. Easy enough, nice people, and extremely boring. Off about one, got a letter in the mail and a $50 money order from CJ, and a card from Mom. Thanks. Very nice. Boy is the Israeli mail slow! To a shower, and shave, then slept from 2:30 till 6. Now writing this. Next I will get dressed and go to dinner. Later . BLF.

PS- Paul called me to his office and wanted to know if I ate 7 turkey steaks Friday night. Ruthie COUNTED how many I took and complained that she wants me thrown off the kibbutz. Anyway, it say's in the posted rules that you are allowed to take food as long as you eat it, and that is what I did. In the mean time, she has made me very popular here. I have made many friends, because they all think it is funny, and side with me. I don't know how everyone found out so fast, but it is working out OK for me so far. And as for the rumors that you were seen snooping through our room while we worked, and in case you are reading this.... Have you found my jeans yet Ruthie? Then what the hell are you doing reading my journal, and for that matter, what are you doing in my room? Later. BLF.

Beit Alpha - 2/6/85
Wednesday - 2:00 p.m. - Worked with Tony in Chickens Monday, and hated it. Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday I worked at the Tsi Pai, or TP for short. This is the metal plating (galvanization) plant. The work is easy enough, and the hours are OK, but I would still like to try some of the other places as well. Went Tuesday night to the movies at the Kibbutz next door, to see “Francis Farmer”. It was OK, but depressing. Played Risk all week, still have not lost yet. It is not because they don't want to topple my empire either. Everyone is now aware that I am undefeated. Supposed to be playing another game in 15 minutes or so. I might try and build a Monopoly board next. Got a letter from Linda, and sent on e each to Linda and CJ.  Not Much else for now. BLF.

Beit Alpha -  2/9/85
Saturday - 8:00 p.m. - Worked in TP, metal plating the rest of the week. Another letter from Linda and one from Jill. Got pretty drunk last night, and slept in today. Then walked awhile and just enjoyed the weather. I am still undefeated in Risk. Playing cards tonight with Ron and Glen. BLF.276,"Beit Alpha 2/12/85 book 5 Israel Tuesday - 4:30 p.m. - Won the card game, made a nice graph! Went Sunday to see the mosaic floor at the ancient synagogue. Played Frisbee football, had a volunteer meeting to attend. Still working in TP, no better, and they have transferred the old, son of a bit*** fart there too. Told Paul I could really use a new assignment. Played stickball Tuesday with a few of the volunteers, it was great fun. (They do not mostly understand baseball). Bulldozers came and dug up our garden and sidewalk to lay a new telephone cable. I got the job doing the work list, because Simone screwed up again. Now I will work a five day week. GH and I had a long discussion about Linda. It seems GH feels guilty. We both wonder where we can go from here, with respect to ever seeing each other again after the trip. It is an interesting question. I got 2 more letters from Linda, and one from CJ. He had a patient react to Novocain and go in to shock. But he say's the physicians said he handled it well. Whew, what a scare. Linda called on the telephone last night about midnight my time, and we talked for almost an hour. She is sending some new CWO dice. I am worried about Jill, she sounds as though she is hanging around some real losers. The way things sound, she could be on the verge of flunking out of school (or going to jail?). Shit, Shit, Shit! There is to be a wedding here tonight and GH, Tony, Julia and I have been invited to the reception as guests. We are the only 4 out of all the volunteers. Played stick ball again today. Great fun, explaining the rules and strategy especially. Plus, I hit 2 home runs. Some very young kibbutznik kids watched us play, and after our game, I taught them how to hit. Not much else now, I am going to catch a short nap. Later. BLF.

Beit Alpha - 2/13/85
Wednesday - Time Unknown - Work as usual today in the TP. Soccer match this afternoon, Kibbutzniks vs. volunteers. Volunteers won. I played very badly, didn't quite know what to do or how to do it. Got our cow shit delivered for the garden finally. Talked to a kibbutznik who works for the Jerusalem newspaper, the Post. We discussed advertising in America mostly, he was curious about our newspapers. When I mentioned coupons, he couldn’t understand the concept. His reply, “Give things away for free?, In Israel? It would never work. Everyone would show up.” I tried my best, but I just couldn't light his bulb. Got mail from grandmother, a very short letter plus $20 cash. He was in the shower again, so she wrote in order to send the money. Thanks grandmother! Also a short letter from Mom-Mom. She mentioned seeing Dora and Larry, but nothing about the journals, film or souvenirs. Where are they? Tonight, the movie “1984” - should be good, I want the poster anyway. BLF.

Beit Alpha - 2/16/85
Saturday - 8:30 p.m. - Wrote return letters to Mom-Mom, grandmother, CJ, Linda and 2 to Jill. Played volunteer vs. kibbutznik soccer rematch, and I played poorly again. Tried to shower, but only cold water since they dug the ditch for the telephone line. Went to the library and got some books, including “Cat's Cradle” by Kurt Vonnegut Jr. Went to the movie Thursday night, it was a French film with Hebrew sub-titles.  Pretty much all the volunteers (80% of the audience) got up and walked out. 1984 on Wednesday night was great though. Friday, went to work early. It rained all day. Picked up our wages after lunch. The earnings for our first 1/2 month were 5,000 Israeli shekels each. Napped and read after dinner. Ruthie has been through our room again while we are out. I am very pissed off, and have no doubt at all she is snooping. Wonder what she hopes to find? The Col-bo has no beer left. The Mexican volunteers threw a party, nice food and drinks. Disco boring, and serving only Nesher beer. Back by 12:30 to sleep till lunch time today. Ate, then played GH a game of Risk. I won. Then we got up a game of American football, good fun. very muddy, slippery field. Then a cold shower again, Read “Robots” by Isaac Asimov, then slept. Dinner fun, work list assignments a bit confusing. Not much else, maybe play some cards tonight. BLF.

Beit Alpha - 2/21/85
Thursday - Time Unknown - Went to Afula Sunday. Took the day off work and opened a bank account. It was a real hassle. Anyway, now I can cash CJ's money order. The bank account converts deposits to dollars, so inflation doesn’t eat up the account in a month or two. Cool. Back in time for a late, “last call” lunch. Then took the car to the motor pool and showed the tires to Elyashu, so he could try and get us new ones.  Wrote to Alan in Jerusalem, and Shawn & Patrick on Lehovat Haviva. Played cards before and after dinner. Nice. Monday I worked in the gardens, very hard work, but nice people. Typical inefficiency, spent the morning doing weeding that it turns out, no one really needed done. Edging the sidewalks the rest of the day.  Learned to drive a big tractor, and invented a new Frisbee game I call “shot gun” Friday afternoon. 3 or 4 people at either end of the field stack 3 Frisbees and throw them all at once. The other team must catch all 3 to score a point. Then vice versa. Played soccer after that in a round robin. Nice, but my game is not improving. Dinner and then cards. Padez Tuesday, Wednesday and today. No movie Wednesday night, didn't go Tuesday night either as there good TV tonight. Gone with the Wind” was the movie. Three more letters from Linda, also a new set of CWO dice. Yay! A lady in the Modan is driving us all a bit crazy. Hot water finally working again as of today. Not much else. BLF.

Beit Alpha - 2/23/85
Saturday - Time Unknown - Thursday night we played poker dice and CWO with Paul. Then watched maybe an hour of Gone with the Wind. Boring., back to go to bed early. Worked Friday in the Lul, scraping chicken shit out of the laying beds. Finished the last half hour of work setting up chairs in the gym for a choir concert. Lunch. Shower. Drive to town and pick up beer. Played some Frisbee, then went to the volunteer meeting. We will be getting dinners on Saturday nights now. Yay again. A few other new ideas too. Also, might be getting rid of Ruthie thank goodness. Paul is OK! After the meeting, I organized an egg toss. Fun. Then some tennis. Finally, a great game of stickball. Dinner, some 500 till 9:45, then to Paul’s for a game of Liars poker on his poker dice. I broke even, GH won 70 shekels. Back to bed. Nice day today, just back from lunch and deciding what to do this afternoon. BLF.

Beit Alpha - 2/25/85
Monday - Time Unknown - Played another great stickball game Saturday afternoon. Almost everyone played. Read Hunter Thompson’s “Hells Angels”, then went to dinner. Made the usual Saturday night egg salad sandwich. Also ate some fruit, yogurt and salami. Played hearts with 10 people. Very slow and distracted game. Not too bad, but nearly. Went to bed about 11:30 in spite of exceptionally loud party in The Greaseball Kid's room (Mike of Vienna, Austria) about 12:30 or so, I went next door and asked them to tone it down, just a little bit. About 12:45 I went and told them to put a lid on it and turn the music off. There was nearly violence when crazy Lydia (with the pierced nose) from Holland tried to attack me. She was in a drunken stupor. It finally quieted down. Ron and I worked in the Padez, picking grapefruit with Paul Sunday.  Two good grapefruit “wars”. Dinner, work list, short and unpleasant visit to the Modan. (Lady took the new time out of my hands and gave it to a kibbutznik). Talked with John and Ross awhile, then back and go to sleep. Rainy today, cold and windy. Covered the young trees with foil and hay as they are calling for snow tonight. Unbelievable. Easy work, great fruit wars. In the Jerusalem Post, New York Times supplement there is a front page story of Reagan all but declaring war on Nicaragua. Holy shit, I knew the son of a b**%** was determined to start a war somewhere. I am not panicking, but I sure hope this dies down quickly before it can develop in to something unnecessarily larger. Tonight at 6, there is an optional lecture on the history of this kibbutz. Later. BLF.

Beit Alpha - 2/28/85
Thursday - Time Unknown - It has been cold and rainy all week. Decided yesterday to leave the Kibbutz in 2 weeks or so and continue traveling. It has been fun, but it is starting to become a drag. We are now well fed and rested. If only we had more money I would be ready for another major leg now. But I am ready to continue now, before the last of my money is gone. Playing a lot of table tennis this week. Wrote Mom, Linda and everyone else and told them not to write to this address anymore, as we will be going. Later. BLF. PS - Reading “Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance” by Robert Persig. Interesting.

Beit Alpha - 3/2/85 book 5 Israel Saturday - Worked in Kavkor, the thermostat factory Friday. Not bad work, very friendly people. Dinner was SUPERB, lamb and/or pork steaks. Real meat! I must have eaten at least 2 pounds. About 9:30 went to Paul’s played liars poker with Paul and Chiefly. I came out about 60 shekels up. Then played Uno awhile, when other visitors arrived. Then more dice till 2 a.m. Up about 10 this morning as it was GH & my turn to clean the disco. That took 45 minutes or so, and wasn't bad. Very nice weather today, and at lunch we decided to have a scorpion hunting safari. Paul agreed to be our guide. I drove, and GH, Caroline and LBJ came along. We drove dirt roads for 20 minutes, to the other side of the valley, then we had to park as the creek was flowing and the car wouldn't have (probably) gotten through. Walked in to the mountains, very beautiful scenery, magnificent. A Eucalyptus tree here and there, 1 or 2 palm trees,  a few bushes, some grass and lots of rock and barren land. Saw gazelles, turtles, lot's of neat birds. Found lizards - none poisonous, and snakes too. Also love bugs, spiders and caterpillars by the bag full. We picked a good spot and began the scorpion hunt. I found the biggest, a lethal, deadly yellow one, about 2 and a half inches long. I also found a crab and 2 or 3 poisonous centipedes. About 3:30 we started heading back. After awhile a Land rover, from another kibbutz, full of young people passed us. We stopped along the way to watch animals and birds. When we were maybe three quarters of a mile from the car, I saw the Land rover stop, up near the creek where our car was parked.  I said to Gillian and the others that it was curious they should stop there, and I wondered what they were doing. I said I thought they were stealing our car, but Paul said “don't to worry about it, they are Kibbutzniks”. Then I saw them walking around the car, and looking in the windows. They opened the door, and I said they are going to steal the car” again. Paul said don't worry again, but I started running, but it was too late as I could already hear them trying to start the engine. As they drove off, leaving us stranded, Paul said “I don't believe it, those Kibbutzniks are stealing your car”. I followed the tire tracks awhile. Then we started the long walk back, and waited for the others to catch up. We decided to go up the mountain and search the area with binoculars. I heard a car and ran back down the road, but it wouldn't stop. I tried to get the others to come back out to the road, but they wanted to go over the mountain and back to our kibbutz, so I got maybe 3/4 of the way up, heard another car, ran back down and planted myself right in the middle of the road. As it came around the bend, I saw it was our car. I drew my switchblade out of my pack and made it very handy. There was a steep hill to my left and a very soft field my right, and I stood in the center of the road, trying my best to block it. The guy stopped, I kept my in my pocket and on my knife.  He stood there without saying a word until the others came. He had some bullshit story, but we got the license number of the jeep they were in and let him go. Aside from a broken seat, they stole our gas, after breaking off the locking cap. They also broke the ignition when they hot-wired it, which was really stupid since the car had a push button start that required no key since we removed the cylinder in Greece. Paul is calling their kibbutz, and we agreed that if they pay all the damages, we won't call the police. Otherwise, all 5 of us can identify the guy, and I am pretty sure he will go to jail.  Forgot to mention, but from the top of the hills, we can see the Jordan border. river and landscape. Anyway, I had to rig the ignition with some wire and my Swiss army knife, and how I got it running (on petrol fumes only) no less, I will never know. It must have had something to do with Zen, and the art of motorcycle maintenance. Finally, after half an hour or so, just as it was getting really dark, I did get it to run, as long as Gillian held the wired still and kept them from jiggling. Made it back here though! Dinner was OK, I did the work list, and now am supposed to see Paul for a progress report. But first, a good, long, hot shower. Later. BLF.

Beit Alpha - 3/4/85
Monday - Worked in the Padez Sunday and brought grapefruit warfare in to the 20th century with a new innovation. I peel the fruit before I throw it. If it then hits within 10 feet of the target, you will be soaked and sticky. Also, if it hits directly, it just pops, so it does more “damage”, but doesn't hurt so much. Kibbutz Beta Shita denied it was their trucks, so Paul, Caroline, LBJ, GH and I went to the police, who were very helpful and feel confident they can get us some money to cover our damages. Today, I worked in the hatchery, and I had to start at 4 a.m. On the other hand, I was done for the day by 10 this morning, and so I sun bathed most all afternoon. I kept a baby chic that was just going to be thrown away, and got food from the zoo for it. It is very cute and inquisitive, smart for a chicken of any age. It seems to get stronger by the hour. Just now, CJ called and I talked to him awhile. It was nice. Things seem to be OK at home. Not much else for now. BLF.

Beit Alpha - 3/14/85
Thursday - I have been very bad about writing. I mean to every day, but as things are happening quickly I just have not had enough time. So, here we go. We named our chicken Sylvester, and he is really neat. He quickly learned to spill his food box over so he could stand on it and jump out of his cage.  When he was 3 days old, he got very sick. He had a large growth on his neck which appeared as a large, dark bubble. We could see through the bubble, right to his insides. After a day of this, he got so heavy on the back side, that he fell on his back and couldn't stand at all. After two more days, I was ready to admit that the Kibbutzniks were right, kill it and put it out of it's misery. In the morning, it was better though, and started eating lots and now he seems to be healthy and happy as a chicken can be.  I got a letter from Mom, one from Linda and one from Jill. The “science” of grapefruit wars has grown amazingly. Sunday Ron, Casper, Henrick and I attacked Paul and George. We were 4 against 2, but every time we tried to get close enough to attack, they drove us off (as they're range is much greater - that Paul has an ARM and a half). George hit me from a good 100 yards, and knocked my glasses off my head. I can only manage to hurl a grapefruit 30, maybe 40 yards on a good day, if accuracy and impact velocity are to be considered.  Once, we all charged, 2 in front throwing, 2 in the rear ready to roll to the front, when they (George & Paul) ran out of ammunition. Me and Ron ran up within 10 feet of them and began heavy shelling. Paul ran IN TO the flying fruit, picked me up and threw me at least 8 feet away, into the weeds. But, he did get shelled pretty good that time. He was soaked. After our final retreat, we discussed strategies for getting within our range, and I suggested using shields. At lunch we “borrowed” some large lids from baking pans and snuck them back to the room. Then about 1:30, we talked 12 of the other volunteers into marching with us in the “crusade”. Paul and George, unfortunately had gone to the other side of the valley to spray, and were thus saved. Instead, we divided in to groups and fought each other for fun and practice.  I did well and only took one minor “hit”, while delivering at least 6 well placed, juicy ones. I narrowly avoided an ambush. Ron appeared in the weeds 5 feet from me and commenced firing just as I saw him. I dove, rolled and ran. And though they flew close on most every side, none hit me. I am a lucky guy. It was Purim week, and we had much fun and many parties.  Wednesday night dinner for the volunteers was in the TV room, and I procured 8 eggs from the hatchery with chickens in them. I mixed them in with the hard boiled eggs. had a great laugh. Thursday Continued - The Purim party Friday night was great. Friday morning, decorations went up and they announced prizes for the best hats. There was a video running of people trying to get in the dining room, but the electric  doors were altered to open when no one was around and close whenever someone approached. This kibbutz “Candid Camera” was very funny. I was still trying to decide on a costume for the party at 7 p.m. I really hadn't packed for a costume ball, nor had Gillian.  I finally decided to stuff an extra pair of pants, tie shoes on, and wear them. I also put gloves on my sweater, and stuffed the sleeves. I put my sunglasses on backwards and hung a cigarette from the brim of my hat on thread, so it stuck out from behind my head. I went as me and my shadow with 4 arms, 4 legs and eyes. There was a lot of food, wine, beer, liquor etc. Everyone was drinking and it was good fun. I danced with Gillian while Julia danced with my shadow, then we all switched partners. Paul went home and passed out about 12:30, dead drunk. George, Harold, Vincent, Tony, Ian and I went to his house and put his whole bed on the back of a pickup truck, while he still slept away.  Then we drove him to the Refet (dairy), still sound asleep and stark naked in bed. We all put on hip boots, and placed the bed in the middle of a large drainage pool for all the cow shit. It was at least 15 inches deep. We stayed up partying all night, and sat up on the hill in the morning watching to see when he would wake up. Boy was he mad in the morning when he did. About 15 of us went to Sachni hot springs Saturday and enjoyed a nice, tropical holiday. Sunday, Paul told us that our detective has gone on holiday and will be back in 3 weeks. Too bad for us I guess. We played poker dice Sunday evening with Paul and some others, and it was great fun. I won lot's. Then we played 3 card break (Blood & Guts) and I won LOTS. Then we played 7&% card poker and I won even more. Very Nice. I am such a lucky guy. We caught a cockroach and fed it to a scorpion, and that was incredible. The scorpion stung it and it was dead. It took about a second and a half to die, and the scorpion needed another 20 minutes or so to completely swallow it. The scorpions face opens sideways, and the claws just push it in. Question? A scorpion can kill itself by stinging itself, however it eats victims that have been poisoned, quite safely it seems. How come? The movie “The Life of Brian” was canceled due to a death on the kibbutz, and everyone was pissed off. It had to happen the first time they get a good movie scheduled. On the other hand, things do happen. Frank and Lydia were kicked off the kibbutz (finally) last week. Yay. Even better, Ruthie quit and is being replaced. One night Gillian and I were in the Modan watching TV and saw a picture of Reagan and U.S. flags flying at half mast. We thought Reagan was dead, and went to Paul’s house to have him translate for us. It turned out to be the missing D.E.A. agent. We ended up playing cards and dice since we were already there. Then GH and I went back to the Modan and watched “Emperor of the North” with Lee Marvin and Ernest Borgnine. Also, forgot to mention the GLO (Grapefruit Liberation Organization) founded by me and my secret pal, Yassar Arafruit.  We organized a terrorist attacks on the unsuspecting volunteers daily, and everyone plays now. One day we were ambushed, as they were ALL waiting for us  with eggs, tomatoes, fire hoses and assorted stuff.  So ended the glorious GLO. Then Ron became Brother Billy Grapefruit, born again Fruitist. He can really preach (and pitch) the grapefruit. Anyway, Tuesday morning of this week, I got up early and left with Gillian for Tel Aviv after a quick breakfast. In Afula, I went to the bank to get my $50 I had deposited. I hate Bank Leumi.  I waited in line 50 minutes and not one teller had yet finished with a single customer. They answered phones, talked to other employees, drank coffee, ran around for signatures, but they never did help any of the customers in the line. I finally went upstairs to the managers office, interrupted his phone call and demanded my money, now. He took me to the tellers and asked me to wait, but I raised hell, so he did the paperwork himself and sent me downstairs to the cash window, where there was another incredibly long line. I queued up, but others kept shoving to the front, so I just pushed 10 of them aside and went right up to the window. I got my money in U.S. cash dollars and paid the commission in shekels. They tried to short change me 300 shekels too. Unreal. Finally got back to Afula bus station, and got on the bus for Tel Aviv. There was standing room only, but it was not too bad. Arrived about 12:30 and found the Egyptian Embassy, but it was to late to get an entry visa. Went to Mazada tours, but didn't book as they leave daily anyway, and I wanted to find out about a flight home too, as my money was still critically low. I also wanted to find out how we could get rid of the car, which is another story altogether. We must have visited at least 40 travel agents, working our way down Ben Yehuda St. The average fare was $345 to New York, one way, with some higher than that. Prices going up 4 April, and very few seats left. $145 to $175 to London. Then I went back to the  agent I found the first time here, and  he got us on a Monarch charter to London for $105. I went to AMEX and cashed my last $250 check, then went to Herzalayye and GH came back to Beit Alpha. At Dora's, I called grandmother collect, but I guess she thought I was just trying to signal, because she refused to accept the charges.  I dialed again, direct, and told her the date I was arriving in London, and asked her to find me a good price to New York. We ate dinner, Dora told me not to bring GH by again, then tried to convince me to go to Yeshiva. She talked down to me, as though I were nothing. I appreciate hospitality, but the price here is steep,. Larry is OK though, for the most part. He mentioned the scales of giving in Jewish law (i.e. give grudgingly, give when asked, give unsolicited aid, give anonymously, give employment). He said the Torah says it is harder to receive than to give, and he asked if I thought that was true. In a real sense, I think it is. I wonder if there is a scale of taking in Jewish law? Anyway, I went to sleep about 9:30 as Mom still had not called back. She called at about 2:30 a.m., local time and Dora woke me up after Mom woke her up.  She booked a Peoples Express flight from London to NY to Washington DC for 6 April, exactly 22 days short of one full year. Roughly, 8,232 hours of travel. Roughly 2.74 hours to the dollar, or .35 cents an hour. I talked also to Jill and all seems well at home. Good. Very excited and anxious to see everyone and hear English spoken, etc. I couldn't fall back asleep, so I read “The Saga of the Bounty” awhile. Overslept in the morning, and then went and got our Airline tickets. It took about an hour, and by the time I got to the Egyptian Embassy, it was 12 minutes past closing time. Shit. I went to a Chinese restaurant and ate lunch. Changed $20 in the street for 9,500 shekels to $1 U.S.. Then I took a bus to the Diaspora museum at Tel Aviv university. Well presented, nicely kept up, interesting use of audio and video displays. Then I decided to stay again and get the visas Thursday for sure, no mater what. Went to Dora’s and called GH to tell her to get me another day off work.  They were going out and didn't want me to stay home alone, so I left to go to old Yaffa. They were going within 2 or 3 Klicks of it, but went right by and dropped me at a bus station 10 Klicks beyond. Typical. It is sometimes hard to receive. But then, I guess I do get what I need.  Old Yaffa was a bit like the Jewish quarter in old Jerusalem, but much smaller.  It was built overlooking the sea, and with an excellent view of Tel Aviv below.

Beit Alpha - 3/15/85
I went back to Dizengoff St. and ate 2 pieces of pizza and just sat and watched the girls go by for awhile. Then stumbled across a bar called M*A*S*H* which it explained in little tiny lettering to mean More Alcohol Served Here than anywhere else in Israel. I went in. A typical British pub. I drank a couple pints and talked to several of the people there. A couple of them bought me drinks, and the next thing I knew, I had drunk 10 or 11 pints and was totally pissed. It was now 11:30 and I took a bus to central station, but the Herzalayye bus left at 11 on its final run.  A taxi asked if I wanted a ride, he had passengers going to Haifa. I bargained down from 5,000 to 2,000 shekels and took the ride. I got a bit disoriented and thought we were going the wrong way, but I arrived OK. had to wake Dora up, as I had no key and the door was locked. Sorry. I was up before 8 Thursday morning and feeling rough, but 2 cups of coffee and a liter of milk helped me recover. Left for the Egyptian embassy at 8:45 and arrived before 10:30. Filled in the forms and paid 8,500 shekels and waited 2 hours. I drank coffee and read a paper. Met a Parisian lady and talked with her awhile. Then, finally got the visas we needed. I went to a travel agent and found out that in order to sell the car, or even give it away, even passport to passport of another traveler, the car must go on the boat to Cypress. As we don't have time for that, the only other option is to leave it in the paid parking lot with a 30 day deposit on the fees, or leave it on the kibbutz. In either case, I will need an official receipt of storage and I will need to declare my intention to come back for it. That is what I will do I guess. I went back to the central bus station and ate 2 showarmas (kebabs) and watched the bomb squad clear a suspected bomb off the street. Then got on the 2 o’clock direct bus for Beit Alpha. The bus couldn't start it's engine, so they put us on another bus, but in the mean time the driver had fixed the first one. We all shifted again and finally left. I arrived back at BA and showered, went to dinner and did the work list. I used Col-bo cards to buy flashlight batteries, toothpaste, etc. Then visited kibbutznik Dave and his wife (he is the one that got the bulldozer for me and helped with the garden). He let us use his phone to call Jerusalem but we couldn't get through because we don't have the right number. Shit. Dave wants our car though, So I think I will let him have it. Worked in the Padez today 15 March 1985, spraying a hormonal herbicide on the avocado trees at the other side of the valley. Hot as hell today. Cleaning the room and packing to leave tomorrow. Not much else for now. BLF.

Beit Alpha - 3/16/85
Saturday - 10:00 a.m. - Turned  in our kibbutz clothes to Ruthie yesterday, and I am sure she was happy to see us leaving. I got a few addresses I was interested in keeping in touch with, then went to dinner. Yohan did not get us the canned food we are entitled to, he forgot. He also forgot Ron’s. Went to dinner, drank a couple of beers and went to see a movie about the Montreal Olympics. Boring. Then, about 1 a.m. Ron and I “visited” the Markolote and got about a weeks worth of canned goods. Very nice. Then back and to bed. This morning the volunteers left on the Mount Carmel trip. Paul stopped by to wish us luck. Very nice. It is 10 and we must finish packing (we have both accumulated way too much to stuff to carry), write and mail a few aerograms, find Dave and get the letter I need to exit the country without the car, clean the room thoroughly and be ready to go no later than 5:30. We should have plenty of time and be gone a few hours early I hope. I must now figure out what goes, and what gets left or dumped. Later. BLF.

Herzalayye - 3/18/85
Monday - Caught the 5:30 bus to Jerusalem Saturday, and it was crowded to standing room only. George and Jilly saw us off at the station. Arrived about 9:15 and Danny and Tony were already half drunk. We brought a case of Gold star as a gift, and started right in on it with them. Carl and Jackie came back about 10:30. Alan was in Eilat with Samantha. We drank till 3. I got a terrible case of the runs that I am still trying to overcome. Went to Yad Vashem Sunday and was very impressed. It was not graphically terrifying, but had a tremendous over all impact. Then to the old city, got a great deal on a couple T-shirts and a Palestinian head dress. Back to the flat, went to Scandals with Allen. Called customs this morning and checked to be sure I could leave the airport without the car. OK. Then to Tel Aviv, booked the Egypt trip, bought a mask and snorkel. We are dropping excess baggage at Larry & Dora's, then we are off to find a place to sleep. Later. BLF.

Cairo - 3/22/85
Friday - Monday in Tel Aviv we left Dora & Larry's house quite perturbed. We went to leave our excess luggage in their house (4 stories, at least 4500 sq. ft) and Dora would not speak to me or Gillian. Larry was cold, and kept hinting that they would love to help, but they just didn't have room. Piss on them both. Pious, holier than though, religious hypocrite fools! Didn't even offer us a damn glass of water. We left and went to the M*A*S*H* bar I had found earlier. David Ferry, from England, near Newcastle, put us up. Read jokes from Hustler Humor for awhile. Slept well. The runs finally dried up and I did not need to find a bathroom every 15 minutes anymore. Woke up at 5:30 and packed for Egypt. Left about 6:30, bought bread and extra toilette paper, then went to Mazada tours to wait for the bus. I had coffee at my buddies sidewalk cafe' and began reading Heinlein’s “Friday”.  Bus left on time. Drove one hour and then stopped 30 minutes for a break. Arrived at the border about 10:30. Finally got through the Egyptian side about 11:30, and on to an Egyptian bus. The driver was crazy! The difference between the two lands is powerful and immediate. The landscape turns from green to sand in a mater of meters, then it is sand dunes and barren rock from there on. Poverty and filth everywhere, people living in tents with camels, etc. Saw blown up tanks littering the desert. Also a big apartment complex in the middle of nothing and nowhere. The government built it to get people to settle outlying areas, but no one has ever lived there because they can not work or farm there. Long, hot bus ride. Crossed the Suez canal about 5:30 on a small ferry. It was neat, as you approach through the desert to see huge military and cargo ships rising out of the sand and sailing slowly past. One guy on the tour (10 of us on the bus, altogether) turned out to be Bud Reed. He went to West Springfield High School at the same time I did. We were on the diving team together, along with Kevin Campbell and Dave Tahash. He is on a bicycle tour, forming a new route for his expedition travel company. The trip through Cairo traffic as you approach the city is incredible. The International hotel is nice enough, what a surprise. We expected worse. Found Ron there, no problem, and made arrangements to go out for the evening. GH and I came to the room to unpack. About 9:30 we met Ron and his new Egyptian friend Ali. Went to Ali's house awhile, then walked along the Nile river. WOW, I am in ancient Egypt! Passed Anwar Sadat’s house and several embassies. Back to go to bed about midnight. It is impossible to wear contact lenses here due to sand, dust, pollution and wind, so I have given up and gone to glasses full time. I haven't seen many natives wearing glasses. I don't know if they all have good eyes and so don't need them, or if they simply can't afford them. I wonder? Really other worldly here, not like ANYWHERE else I have been. Even the numbers are different!  Wednesday morning we had “breakfast” at the hotel, then took a city bus to the great pyramids at Giza. The buses cost about 5 piasters  (under a penny), and are always packed. People even hang on to the outside of the bus by the bumper, a window from, whatever they can grip and hold to. The doors can not close, as there is no room due to people in the aisle, on the steps, everywhere there is room to push and squeeze in to a crack. The bus never actually stops, it only slows down. Amazing.  Anyway, GH, Mike & Mary from England, and I arrived at Giza and saw the Sphinx and pyramids. They are really worn down, not what I expected, but the surrounding area is just trashed! Litter everywhere. Camels, horses and donkeys working or for hire everywhere. Beggars and vendors pestered us constantly. Still, I rode a camel and got my picture taken in front of the pyramids. Inside the pyramids was neat. No paintings or treasures, but small passages leading to the crypt chamber. VERY hot inside, especially with people in and out all day and no ventilation at all. Very claustrophobic, cramped and difficult. But an experience one can not miss. I got a camel man (Bedouin I think) up to 5 pounds (Sterling) for our flashlight, but GH wouldn't let me sell it. Bused back and cashed a small travelers check at AMEX in the really nice Hilton. Then went and bought train tickets to Luxor. Wandered around and ate some food. Then ended up resting for awhile in the lobby of the Hilton. Ran in to the border guard who had checked us through at the border and talked with him for awhile. Discovered a casino on the second floor. Only foreigners are allowed to gamble there. Came home about 10. Pretty walk over the Nile and the big island in the middle. My feet are really tired (I have gotten out of shape - forgot how much walking this type of travel involves). Shower and sleep early. Up before 9 Thursday morning, walked to museum. The TUT exhibit is marvelous. The rest was repetitive, but interesting. Then walked to Khan al Khalil, the market bazaar. Long walk, Cairo is a HUGE city. Got lost and a man found a boy and hired him to take us there. (We had asked for directions) Got on a street car, and it too was VERY crowded. The driver ushered us in with him, to the driving compartment where there a little room. The conductor would not even let us pay for our ride. People jammed in and hanging from the rafters, and we were riding in the cab. Very nice. The market was neat. Saw them working gold, ivory, brass, etc. Stopped for tea and I smoked a hooka in the cafe'. A Muslim annual holiday was there suddenly, a hoard of people marching by, with flags, banners, drums and chants to Allah. Lots of people. Wow. Visited a couple of Mosques. Met a guy who showed us around. Then walked back to Talir Sq., ate and continued to the Hilton. Rested in the lobby there awhile (Wonderful A/C and comfortable chairs). Met another guy, who works for the government here and wants me to help him market Olympic pins in the USA Then to the casino. I was 15 up, put away my start up money plus 5. Went up and down and finally quit, up about 5 more. Mike lost ten. The casino won again. I am a very lucky guy. We took a cab back to our hotel. Today up early, ate breakfast and packing. Going to the camel market, and continue in Cairo. Taking the night train to Luxor. PS - at the museum, we went in the exit, and so were able to sell our tickets back. Also met up with Caroline, Mete & Dottie. They gave me Henricks student ID. I made several photocopies down the street & now we are all students, traveling at student rates. People are very nice here. All say “hello”. Not much else. Later. BLF.

Friday - Supplemental Entry - 4:00 p.m. - Made it to the camel market with very little trouble considering it is all the way across town and this is a big city. Cairo, according to the books, gets 3 days of rain each year, and today is one of them! Camel market was worth it anyway. Thousands of camels running around, being bought and sold. Also horses, donkeys, goats and sheep. Most exotic. Most depressing. The cruelty with which they are treated (whipped, beaten, burned, hobbled, tied, etc.) There was a pit around the edge , at the very back of this market place which was itself larger than many small towns. The pit was piled high with rotting animals that did not survive the market for one reason or another. But, they were a small percentage of the animals passing through, judging by the size of the herds here today. This is a different world. This is a used car, truck and tractor lot. Then, wandered around another market area, in a  different part of the city. I bought a purple striped, Arab robe, a good heavy cotton galibeo (robe) for 3 pounds sterling. Met some nice people who bought us tea, and got me a bowl of hobily bubbly. Walked back, and stopped for a sausage on the way, and then a showarmas. I treated, and bought eight of them for the four of us. 90 piasters, great deal. Now we are just waiting.
The four of us, and the two Australian girls will all share a taxi to the big, main train station tonight to head south. One thing I saw today, people re-filling disposable lighters on the street for 10 piasters. Also people rebuilding car engines, right there on the street. I must again comment on  how friendly, overly friendly, and honest these people act. They are often poor, but they are proud, and from a culture that is strong on hospitality to travelers. Strangers often say “hello, welcome to Cairo” and stuff like that in passing. Lots of them. Or “400 welcomes to Cairo” and such. In the poorer areas of town I bought candy to give away to the small children, and it felt great. It is definitely easier and more rewarding to give sometimes, just for the hell of it. Especially when you are able to make your money go farther. Later. BLF.

Cairo - 3/22/85
Postcard Picture is the temple of Abu Sembel - Hello Mom & Eddie, today is 22 March and I am at Cairo train station leaving for Luxor in 5 minutes or so. Egypt is dirty, but fun. The people are great. I am taking my chloroquine and being careful. Having a ball and enjoy being “on the road” again. The middle east is really something else, as I guess you know. Sorry to make this short, but there are a million people here and my train is getting ready to leave. See you very soon, Love, Barry. PS- The train left before I could find a mail box, so I am sending this from Luxor. I met a dentist on the train and I am going to visit him and see his office, home and family, I will take a picture for CJ, also ran into a friend from West Springfield high school diving team and history class, in Cairo of all places. 12 million people there, who says it is a small world? Mailing this on 3-23, please note when it arrives.

Luxor - 3/23/85
Saturday - Time Unknown - The train left Cairo precisely at 8 last night. First class was comfortable enough, and cheap, although the carriage needs new shock absorbers pretty badly. Met a very nice dentist from Abidos who invited us to come and visit. Mike, Margie, GH & I decided to play some CWO. I invited the dentist to play as well. I won the 1st game in a spectacular comeback, but 3 wimped out of the second game. The porter came by offering full dinners for L2.50, not bad, but economy prevailed and I ate canned mackerel sandwiches. About 1 in the morning I was just finishing the book I am reading, and another guy came up and introduced himself. He is Mohammed, 24, and just won a full scholarship to Georgetown University. He arrives in DC this June. I gave him my number and told him  to feel free to call if he needed anything.  Slept very little on the train. We arrived here about 11 this morning. Lots of interesting scenery on the Way. At the railroad station in Luxor we were surrounded by pension pushers. I choose one who seemed reasonable, but the other 3 didn't like all the flies in his hotel. So, we doubled back to the New Carnac Hotel (L2.25 each, and clean). The bellman/porter/janitor is cool. He offered to rent us bikes, showed us where the shower was, and I sent him out to get us cold cokes. Gillian doesn't feel well, but we will go  out for a stroll anyway and have a look around. Later. BLF.
PS- also sending p-cards to Mom and Linda today.

Luxor - 3/23/85
Postcard Picture is the golden mask of Tut Ankh Amoun (King Tut) - Hello Linda, from Luxor. I am well and looking forward to homecoming. Egypt is a trip! Cairo has 12 million people, 9 pyramids, King Tut exhibit, 100,000 camels, 50,000 mules and 19,000 horses (at least) plus all the flies that go with them. I went to Cairo casino and was as far as $20 up, but I lost some back and left with only a five dollar profit. Oh, well. Also went to the weekly camel market. Got a good deal on a slightly used model, but had to refuse delivery as I couldn't get it a seat on the plane home. Everyone is very nice here, super friendly, but it is a very different culture. Very hot, dusty and dry. Lot's of Mosques and ancient temples, sphinxes, etc. They love CWO. Ran in to a high school friend of mine from the  West Springfield high school diving team here in Cairo. He runs a bicycle tour company in Alexandria and is scouting out a new route. The busses here are so crowded you sometimes just hang on outside. The bus doesn't stop at stops, it just slows down and everyone runs to jump on. It's real hard to get off, which might be why they are always so crowded. Stay well, see you real soon, Love, Barry.

Luxor - 3/24/85
Sunday - Time Unknown - Went to take a walk about 2 and saw Luxor temple, just near here. Walked along the Nile and went for a felucca ride (small, ancient design, sail boat) to Crocodile Island. There were 4 little kids on the island with a lizard to show us (but it was NOT a crocodile or a gaiter, it was just a crock). Still, it was fun though. The breeze was good, the river seems cleaner here, and it was a lot of fun for one pound per person. Then, walked 3 or 4 K's to Carnac temple. Saw the Avenue of the Sphinxes, but the temple was closed. Took a horse drawn taxi back for a pound and a half, which is reasonable split 4 ways. GH and I went shopping, she wants an Egyptian robe, and some stuff for her family. Finally found a nice one, but it took a bit of searching. Sat and talked with the shop owners until fairly late. They invited us back for drinks and dinner with them tonight. Slept very well last night. Today we bicycle to the other side of the river. I will let you know how it goes later. BLF.

Moon Valley - 3/26/85
Wednesday - Time Unknown - We rode our bicycles ( one LB per day for the bikes) out to the Nile & took the ferry across. Rode about 3 K's uphill and bought our student tickets for the valley of the kings/queens using our new student ID's. Two and half pounds entry sure beats five! We visited at least 20 of the 68 known tombs, including Tut's. All pretty magnificent, much nicer than inside the pyramids. Riding back to Luxor was easy, especially with the nice down hill breeze to keep us cool. Stopped for a Sport Cola, and then back to the ferry. Rode past lots of sugar cane. Across river, and rode to Carnac temple. Student ID strikes again, $1.50 vs. $3.00.  Temple was impressive. Gillians camera died, it was probably the heat killing the batteries. Rode in to town again about 5 and got info on bus to Hurghada. Asked 5 people and got 4 different answers. One way or the other, the bus leaves somewhere between 6 and 8 a.m. Ate stuffed pigeon, veggies etc. at a nice restaurant. There is no meat on a pigeon. Never again. Tasted like oily chicken. Then we went to visit friend Mohammed. House was poor, but hospitality rich. Back to bed by 11, but I couldn't get to sleep. I am developing capitalist guilt complex. Noticed something else; In Norway/Sweden summer sun is worshipped, as they have it only a short time. In Cairo, they average only 3 days of rain per year, when  it did rain they cleared the street faster than anywhere in Europe. Strange to watch. It is neat though, as it rains so seldom many things are kept outside. i.e. kitchens with stove, refrigerator, extra bedrooms, etc. Many homes don't even have roofs. Anyway, Monday morning we were at the bus stop by 6. The bus showed up about 7:35. About an hour out from Luxor, a couple remembered they had left their passports at the hotel. Then another 2 realized they had also. All 4 got off at the next stop, and had to go back. The ride was very bumpy and hot across the Sahara. Arrived about 12 noon and GH and I decided to camp out at Moon Valley. Free camping, if you buy dinner for 2 pounds. Left our packs, borrowed some flippers and went swimming along the coral reef. Thousands of beautiful fish, everywhere! Amazing. Excellent. Met some Egyptian kids on the beach. (Topless beach). Back across the street to camp as the sun was BRUTAL. Dinner was a 4 course affair, and great. Good atmosphere as well. Slept soundly. Up about 9 yesterday morning and walked to the Sheraton beach. The water there is empty. No more fish. Came back here and swam. Caught a puffer fish. Mike and Margie came by the campground to visit. They decided to come out to dinner here last night too. GH and I went for another swim. Then back and napped an hour. Put up tent and got a bucket of water for a shower. Then waited for dinner. Others arrived and we had a good salad, pasta, fish, squash, beans and potatoes. Very good. Today, GH and I head by bus for Suez, as there is no boat across the sea. Someone could get wealthy running a boat. For that matter, opening a hotel between the ultra expensive Sheraton, and the 2 pound pitch a tent and eat here place would be even better. Later. BLF

Suez - 3/26/85
Wednesday - Evening Supplement - 10:00 p.m. - Our friends at Moon valley drove us to town about 7. I bought chips, cokes and ciggs, and we waited for the bus. It arrived at 8 and was already full to just beyond standing room only. The trip was long, hot, often over dirt roads. But nice desert scenery on the left and the Red sea on the right. Had a flat tire, one rest stop and one fight that almost became a riot when somebody pissed the bus driver off by complaining about being late. Arrived about 6:15 this morning, and found the Suez Mirenda Hotel for two and a half pounds a night. Went out and ate spaghetti for 15 piasters, bought a two foot tall brass water pipe for $10 American. I love it, it is similar to what you see all the men smoking in the coffee houses. It will look great as a decoration at home soon. Very tired now. We catch the 7:00 a.m. bus to Sharm El Sheik tomorrow morning. Later. BLF.
PS- Gillian is not feeling to well, she has the runs. I am doing fine, nothing here seems to be affecting me (yet anyway).

Sharm El Sheik - 3/28/85
Postcard Picture is Naama beach, Sharm El Sheik - Hello Mom & Eddie, home in about 9 days or so now, I will probably beat this card back, but we will see. Egypt has been very nice. I have been to Cairo, Luxor, Hurghada, Suez and now I am in Sharm El Sheik (remember BBYO) near Naama bay and the best snorkeling in the world! The coral reef is full of dolphins, tropical fish and plants. Weather is great. Tomorrow some swimming and then on to Taba, Eilat, Jerusalem, London, New York, Washington DC and home. Can't wait to tell you all about it. Hardly seems like eleven months today. Happy anniversary to me. I went out to dinner last night and ate till I was stuffed, all for 50 piasters (about 35 cents American) Bringing some great souvenirs including a galibeo, a shesha and more. Not much else to say really, especially as I will probably be home by the time this arrives. Love, Barry.

Tel Aviv - 3/31/85
Sunday - 1:25 p.m. - Up at 6 Thursday morning to catch the early bus to Sharm El Sheik. Arrived at the bus station about 15 minutes early. The 7 a.m. bus was late, and to make a long story short, it finally left around 11 or so. Very hot day. Very hot. The bus took about six and a half hours, and we finally arrived about 5:15 this afternoon. Nothing, and I mean NOTHING in Sharm El Sheik. So we went by bus about 7 K's to the Marina and Naama Bay. Seven pounds to camp, or 80 pounds to stay in the hotel. Back to S.E.S. and the international youth hostel. Two pounds, eight to a room and fleas. Walked down to the market and visited some gift shops. Ate some chips and a coke, then went back to the shop for tea. Back to the hostel about 9:30. They said my youth hostel card was expired and told me I could not stay. We argued awhile and several Arabs took my side. I stayed. GH and myself, plus 5 or 6 Arabs played CWO  till 11:30 or so. Then I wrote a post card to CJ and went to sleep. Up about 7, left for the beach by 7:30. Hitch hiked the 7 Klicks easy. Rented 2 sets of fins, and one mask and snorkel for Gillian. Set out for Near Gardens, one of two coral reefs. The other is Mushroom Gardens. Walked about 40 minutes and found a nice spot. The snorkeling was neat. I followed the reef about a mile and never surfaced. I ended up taking 3 long dives, and 1 or 2 quick dips, plus caught a couple of cat naps. This beach is topless too. Sunbathed the rest of the day. The heat was brutal, and so were the flies. About 2:30, back to the marina. Shower and return rental equipment. Hitch hike back to the hostel and got bags. Then wait for the bus to Nubia. Ran in to Astor and chatted with him awhile. He was going to Naama Bay. The bus ride to Nubia took about four hours. Arrived and walked down the beach. Stopped at a straw hut that was a seafood restaurant. Ate a big, delicious whole fish for one pound. I ordered an omelet as well, but they say eggs on top of fish will make you sick, and so they would not serve me both.  Played some CWO at the bar and met some nice people there. Had a nice smoke and ended up just pitching the tent on the beach about 50 yards from the restaurant, right near the sea. As I was falling asleep, I heard waves crashing on my right, and Pink Floyd, “Dark Side of the Moon” on my left, coming from the restaurant stereo. It is not really what I would have called a restaurant before. It is a straw hut, with an oil fired generator so they can keep drinks cool and make ice. They have a grill, some scattered tables and chairs. There is nothing else on the beach, and no easy access or anything. There is a bare light bulb hanging from the ceiling. I like it. I slept very well in the soft sand in my tent by the sea. This tent has been pitched under a lot of neat stars, but this was a great location. Up before 7, due mostly to the extraordinary heat. It was impossible to stay in the tent as it became more of an oven. Nothing a quick wake up swim didn't fix. Met some people who had reserved a sherut to Taba at 11 a.m. and arranged to share it. Sold our pounds for dollars, and came out ahead. Also sold 4 rolls of toilette paper, my diving mask and our flashlight for $6 American. Rode a camel around the beach, courtesy of my new Bedouin friend. Had a nice smoke and left. Stopped at Coral Island briefly for a look. Through customs and into Eilat by 1:00. Caught the 3 o’clock bus to Jerusalem and by a fluke/miracle even got a seat. Arrived about 8:30, called Alan’s apartment and no one was there, so we went to Scandals and found the whole crew there. Drank a few pints, and then home. I showered and shaved and felt good and clean again, went to sleep around 12:30. Up at 8 and tried to catch the 9:30 to Afula, but missed it, so we came to Tel Aviv. Tried to get dollars from 3 banks today, but only succeeded in wasting lots of time in lines. Out on the 5:02 to Herzalayye to get our bags. Dora and Larry were very cold. They did not ask about Egypt, offer a glass of water or in fact say anything at all. I thanked them for allowing our 2 bags to stay in their basement, and we left. F*** them. Back to the bus station to go to Beit Alpha. Israel could surely teach Egypt about some basic, simple hygiene and irrigation, however the Egyptians could teach the darned Israelis some manners. No one smiles here much and it is a rat race. It could be any city, USA I think I liked Egypt better, except for the filth and extreme poverty. Later. BLF.

Jerusalem - 4/2/85
Tuesday - Arrived at kibbutz Beit Alpha Sunday afternoon and received a warm welcome from all, especially Bob, John, Caroline & David. Also Paul, who gave us a nice room to stay in. Spent the afternoon drinking tea and talking to different people. Went to dinner, and then to bed early. They were very short on volunteers to work Monday so I washed dishes 8-2. Weather was cool and rainy anyway, so what the heck. Got ciggs and a few paperback books, said goodbye for real, and left for Jerusalem. A disgusting, old lady threw up the whole ride, and when she wasn't busy being sick, she was complaining loudly, yelling at her husband or the bus driver. Came to Alan, Carl & Danny's flat and began sorting and packing our things. Danny, GH and I made a fish stew for dinner that was de-luscious! Played 2 games of chess and then went to sleep. Not sunny enough today to go back to the dead sea, so hopefully tomorrow. Down to the old city in awhile to get some last and final gifts for Mom and Eddie and the grandparents. I could go to the old city everyday, it is great. Later. BLF.
PS- I have been thinking about GH a lot. Wish I could figure out how to stay with her for awhile longer. I do not want to be on the other side of the world.

Jerusalem - 4/5/85
Thursday - Went to the old city on our shopping trip and got Linda and Jill necklaces, Mom a vase, Eddie a pipe and an Aladdin’s Lamp for CJ that is really cool. Olive wood camels for all the grandparents (a steal at about 70 cents apiece) and one free necklace. I got the free necklace after getting in a fight with 3 Arabs in their shop. We got in some heavy bargaining and I had leverage as they had already made my “custom” necklace. They raised the price, I tried to leave, they locked the door to the shop. They would not let us leave. It turned in to a fist fight. The police finally arrived as Gillian had managed to attract some attention, and they took us all to the station. I pressed assault and black marketing charges. The owner of the shop arrived and begged me to drop charges. That’s how I made a new friend, and managed to get some free gifts too. Back and played chess with Danny. Then to Scandals with Alan. Next day nice weather, but no money at all left for a dead sea trip. I am broke. Nearly. Finally. Scandals that night, Alan played guitar and was the entertainment. We got drunk, then went for hamburgers. Lazy day today. Slept, showered, packed and now a game of Risk. I am still undefeated. Then, out for drinks and on to the airport. Later, but not for long. BLF.

London - 4/5/85
Friday - Gatwick Airport - I am not as happy as I was last time I was here. I am more tired, more dirty, more broke. I ran out of money several days ago, but I am much richer than last time. It is real now. I am going back home to the states, Gillian to New Zealand. It is almost over. I will have a bathroom, but my freedom is gone and so is GH. It is real now, it is almost over. Anyway, forgot to mention one other incident in Old Jerusalem. At the Holy Sepulcher, where Christ was crucified and/or buried, the pushed and shoved and killed in order to beat the long queue’s of waiting people. Also, as you walk by, a priest grabs you, pushes you to your knees, lights a candle for your family and gives you a small wooden cross and some beads. Then if you don't cough up a donation for the church, they blow out the candle, take back the cross and beads (which you did not want or ask for in the first place) and you are on your way again. Anyway, Sam, GH and I played Risk till 4, then headed for Scandals. Took the board with us and finished the game over some pints. Alan arrived about 6 and we started a new game (after I won the 1st one. They are getting better, it is much tougher to keep winning. Should I let GH win one?).  I got 2 cans of Israeli Guinness beer for Dale and Pete, and almost an Israel Is Real T-shirt, but alas, no money. Alan played guitar for the bar until 11, at which point GH dragged us out to go for the car and get to the airport. Danny wasn't ready, but after a tense and hectic 15 minutes, we left. Alan drove at about 140 kph. What a ride. Going through customs, Sam came over, and as she was drunk, they started in with all kinds of questions. (especially about the car. They are really worried about our car, that we want to GIVE them for FREE.) Danny and Alan were so good to us! After checking our bags, and passing security we chatted and drank a bottle of Carmel wine. Then, we left and headed up  to the gate for passport control. About 1:30, got through and found that our 1:55 flight was now leaving at 4:50. Bought cheese and ham at the duty free shop (Thanks GH) and after eating, we stretched out on the floor and slept. The duty free complex at Ben Gurion airport is amazing. Huge. They sell everything, but it's not all that cheap.  The flight was at least half empty. Good hot dinner, then watched the Greek Aisles pass by below. Then took one row each, stretched out and slept till London. The 757 is a comfortable plane.  I am now sitting here in an English speaking country for the first time in about 9 months, and I am wondering where the time has gone. I remember last 29 April and my 1st journal entry as if it were yesterday.  At People Express they will not check in my bag until tomorrow morning, but it is possible that I may fly standby today. Guess I will wait to tomorrow, so I can have a last look around London. Later. BLF.

London - 4/6/85
Gatwick airport - 8:15 - GH and I took the 777 green line coach to Victoria about 10:30 yesterday after I tried to confirm reservation and check bag.  Cold and rainy weather. I changed my $20 emergency secret stash money and got L14.70. Where was I when it was $1.03 to the pound? Called Mike and Jean and talked with them awhile, very nice people!, enjoyed a nice chat.  Bob and Natalie are arriving in London Monday for a 3 week holiday. Tried calling Tony, Glen, Rae and Andrea, but no luck anywhere. Glen's friend offered to put us up for the night, for 10 pounds. The cheapest hotel was L14, but no credit cards and full anyway. All other cheapies were 24 pounds and up. Most were above L30. Most of the pubs and shops closed early. It is Easter weekend, just when I thought I had escaped the religious holidays, but surprise. None the less we found a travel agent and got GH a honey of a deal. London to Christchurch, via Bombay, Sydney, Auckland for L460. Dirt cheap considering, plus it leaves tonight, no waiting around. Then we came back to the airport, made some sandwiches. I met an old Englishman, and we nipped off for a pint. Then GH and I got the Risk board out and went to the airport pub. Stopped and bought a newspaper with my name in the headlines, and one for GH as a souvenir for each of us. GH called home and got her dad, and told him she was coming home. It was a little emotional. Called Mike back, as Gillians family tree goes back to Chatham, and she has some research to do there for her father. Mike is brilliant with English history and was very helpful. Chatted a bit more, almost an hour in fact, then rang off. GH bought me lots of pints. I liked the John Smith Bitter the best. We played 2 more games of Risk, found a quiet place to sleep and crashed about 1:30 a.m. Up about 6:15. GH bought me coffee and a milk shake. I walked her to the bus, and she is gone now. I thought about going after her, but then wondered “to where”.  I wonder when we shall see each other again? And where? In 15 hours or so, she starts her flight, which will run nearly 40 hours. I am alone again. I have little or nothing again. I am checked in and waiting to board my flight in the opposite direction. It was very sad to part company, although I knew it was coming. It was harder than I expected. It is really the end of The Journey. The adventure is over. 4/28/84 to 4/6/85was one hell of a (nearly) year for me. And it was nowhere near as long as I predicted it would be when I sat here and wrote entry #1 28 April 1984. A bit sad, but all in all I am ready to go home and see family and friends. That will be great too. Later. BLF. (but what will I do when I get there?)

Newark - 4/6/85
8:00 p.m./2:00 p.m. USA time. Flight left 45 minutes late under Captain Charley Doyle. Take off was scary, I thought we were going back down. Slept most of the way. Didn't eat, drink or watch the movie. Came through customs, no sweat. Checked in for DC and leave on the final leg home in about an hour. Think I will call Bonnie and Ira and see if they are home. Later, or I guess not. BLF. Final log entry- When we touched down at DC National, I got my Arab robe and headdress out of my carry on, and as the plane taxied towards the gate I slipped it on. The other passengers seemed less than comfortable with this, and a few became noticeably edgy. OOPS. Anyway, I got off the plane in my Arab disguise, and spotted Mom and Eddie immediately as they had a big “Welcome Home Barry” banner and they were right by the arrival gate in the very front. I made direct eye contact with Mom for just a second, and as I passed by and watched out of the corner of my eye, saw her elbowing Eddie and pointing at the Arab as they continued waiting for me to emerge. Just as I thought I was free and clear to come from the rear and surprise them, Jill somehow recognized me and came running up. Maybe it was the sunglasses that gave me away, I am not sure, but I could not fool her. I am at Mom's house now. I have showered, and rested a bit. I miss GH. I have no money left. I need to find a job, buy a car and get back to the real world now I guess. It has been fun. So long, take care and thanks to everyone, everywhere. Without all the nice people mentioned throughout theses journals, I could not have gone as far, seen as much, spent as little or had so much fun. Goodbye. Barry.